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We will want to buy a generator that will allow us to run our AC and microwave. We tried to keep the initial cost down, so we didn’t order the MA ez start. Do you have any recommendations as to the minimum size of generator we should buy? Long Long Honeymoon UTube recently recommended an Atima 2000i, but a friend said a 4000 was needed.

 

Fisher2

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Count the watts and go from there... On a 2000i you will only be able to run one at a time.

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Happy Camping,


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Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


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You will need 3000 watts without the EZ Start addition. With it, 2000 watts should work.

 

We have a Yamaha 3000 that has always been able to meet our needs. It is left over from when we had our first Oliver that was not equipped with solar.

 

Neither 3000 nor 2000 watts will run the air conditioner and any other accessory, such as the microwave, at one time.  A 4000 watt generator might be able to do so. But this is definitely more generator than is needed, ie weight, cost.

 

To prevent any nearby camping neighbors from hating you, make sure you buy a brand that is quiet. Below 60 dB is great.

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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Thanks, you two. I can always count on you.

 

Bruce and Lois Ashley

 

PS. You aren’t going to Alaska this summer, are you?

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We're probably going to Alaska again, but not in our Oliver. Delivering a motorhome.

 

We have a Yamaha 3000 which is way too heavy to drag around the country , but powered a few lights and fans, and two refrigerators, and coffee makers, for two sticks and bricks homes during the hurricane this year. Ours, and our neighbors.

 

I'd get the soft start if you really KNOW you will camp off grid, but will need AC. You can always add it.

 

We chase cooler weather in the summer, and don't use the AC. Pretty much never, except cleaning and loading at our house in Florida. We use a Honda 1000, just to recharge batteries if we run into a streak of crummy weather and don't feel like moving on.

 

If I were you, I'd hedge my bets and get a Honda or Yamaha 2000, that's capable of adding a companion unit. You may find you don't actually " need" AC anymore than we do. But you have the option to add 2000 more watts with a companion unit, if you're wrong...

 

Both brands are well made, super quiet, light enough to handle by one reasonably fit person, and easy on fuel. Our Honda is 10 years old. So is the Yamaha. We use only non ethanol gas, and they never have failed us, and never annoy our neighbors. We run the gas out before storing. Use stabil throughout the season, ... just in case, as our genset gets very infrequent use.

 

Make sure whatever you buy has the "I" in the name. Don't buy a cheapie industrial loud model that can blow up your electronics.

 

My two cents.

 

Sherry

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Great advise SeaDawg.

 

We have the Yamaha 3000. I like the unit, but if I were to do it over again I would probably go with a Honda or Yamaha 2000, that’s capable of adding a companion unit. The 3000 takes two very fit guys to load and unload. I now just leave it in the basket covered and locked down when it's in the storage yard. I will say that the weight of the 3000 does not seem to affect the towing with our Silverado 1500.

 

Having said that I would like to add that we stay in a lot of off-grid places during our travels and having the ability to use or AC is a must for us. This year with the hurricanes and evacuations it was invaluable.

 

Hap

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Thanks - looks like a better unit all around and for the same price. Worth waiting for, or worth waiting for some good deals on the 2000 model.

 

http://www.hondanews.com/releases/all-new-honda-eu2200i-super-quiet-series-generator-delivers-customers-more-power-for-work-home-or-play-with-the-same-legendary-honda-quality-and-reliability?query=Generator+


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I, too, have been considering purchasing a generator that would enable us to run the air conditioner in our Ollie when disconnected to shore power. (We have the solar set up.) I have also read some earlier posts on the EZ Start addition that will enable the AC to run on 2000 watts.

 

The new Honda EU2200i generator seems promising indeed. Here are two questions to which I hope to get answered by one or more of you more technically savvy folks:

 Will the Honda EU2200i  be sufficient to start and run the AC without the EZ Start?

If not, where can I find and purchase the EZ Start system that will be compatible with my AC (2017 Elite II)? I will need to order it and have my local RV repair folks install it for me. If possible, please provide a link to the EZ Start system I would need to order.

Thanks!

 

--Jeff


Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


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Just a comment about running the AC: the Air Command smaller unit (9500, no heat strip) runs fine off my Yamaha 2400 generator with no soft start needed. The big Air Command is more appropriate for really heavy (hot/ humid climate) use but it may not reliably start on that sized genny without Soft Start.

 

As always, the Surge Suppressor remote display is very useful in monitoring starting and running loads in amps.The Yamaha is rated for 19 amps continuous, if I remember correctly, but it easily will handle a short 30 to 40 amp surge. The 9500 Air Command unit requires about 11 amps continuous once the compressor is running. This gives a good reserve for powering the converter or other light current devices (NOT the microwave).

 

From what I have read about the older Hondas, they do not have nearly as high a surge rating, though that may be corrected in the new 2200 watt model. The Yamaha 2400 is a stellar choice for a powerful RV generator and it also has enough capacity to power much of your home in a long term emergency. It is also very easy to work on.

 

http://www.rvstealsanddeals.com/check-out--Yamaha-2400-Generator

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

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Check out the Champion 3100. Look at Amazon and Overstock and read the reviews. It is pretty quiet in our opinion and we like it. Have to admit we have only had it a couple months but I rely on reviews a lot and I did in this case. Good luck!

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Trish & Jack

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Check out the Champion 3100. Look at Amazon and Overstock and read the reviews. It is pretty quiet in our opinion and we like it. Have to admit we have only had it a couple months but I rely on reviews a lot and I did in this case. Good luck!

This is what we have. Run it on propane. Quiet. It is heavier than the Honda. Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

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Just a comment about running the AC: the Air Command smaller unit (9500, no heat strip) runs fine off my Yamaha 2400 generator with no soft start needed.

 

Hi John, was this smaller Air Command AC a published option when you ordered your Ollie?  Or was it a "Secret Menu" item?


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I, too, have been considering purchasing a generator that would enable us to run the air conditioner in our Ollie when disconnected to shore power. (We have the solar set up.) I have also read some earlier posts on the EZ Start addition that will enable the AC to run on 2000 watts. The new Honda EU2200i generator seems promising indeed. Here are two questions to which I hope to get answered by one or more of you more technically savvy folks:

Will the Honda EU2200i be sufficient to start and run the AC without the EZ Start?

If not, where can I find and purchase the EZ Start system that will be compatible with my AC (2017 Elite II)? I will need to order it and have my local RV repair folks install it for me. If possible, please provide a link to the EZ Start system I would need to order.

Thanks! –Jeff

1. Yes, even the 2000i will run it without the easy start. But it does max out the generator on start up for a few seconds. The easy start quiets down everything and can be ordered from Oliver or there is a thread on here.

 

2. Here's the link -

 

https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267

 

I bought the easy start because my old 2000i is 15 years old now. It starts and runs the a/c fine on its own but when ran maxed out, it's loud, so the easy start cuts it back to about 3/4 throttle on the a/c compressor start up. Technically, the easy start isn't needed but it sure makes everything run so smooth... The Micro-Air Easy Start shouldn't be an option, it should be standard because it's flat out great! I love my old Honda 2000i, it has thousands of hours on it, it's easy to work on, and if you run Mobile 1 Synthetic oil in it, it will last decades! Here's a link to the specs -

 

http://m.powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu2000i

 

The reason that I wouldn't buy the Yamaha, is the difference in weight... At 45lbs, I can pick up the Honda easily with one hand and carry it to wherever it's needed easily by myself. Anything bigger, isn't needed... I'm not going by things I've read online... I'm going by actual hands on experience with my Honda over the last 15 years of running my house on it for over 30 days when the power goes out in the winter many times, to running my old 32' Pace Arrow motor home on it all day long for the a/c in the summer. When set to Eco mode, it runs for 8+ hours on less than a gallon of gas, it charges or tops off my 4 batteries in our Elite II in about 20 minutes.

 

Reed

 

 

 

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Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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Something to consider. Propane

 

When we started, used a Honda 7000is, converted to propane, (already had it as a house backup) rolled it in and cabled it down and it never moved. New tow vehicle, wife decided she wanted tonneau cover, so height restricted, got a Honda 2000i and converted it to propane.

 

The advantages to propane:

 

Fixed lowest generator weight, your fuel is always separate

 

The whole carrying gas around, either in the generator or in a can to refuel

 

I'm horrible about long term fuel storage and propane doesn't go bad.

 

If necessary, it can be connected to the Olivers tanks to get through an emergency situation. Normally I just run it, them, off a standard gas grill tank.

 

If concerned about high altitude use, you can get a higher flow adapter easy enough.

 

The con is the initial cost of the alteration.

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Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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The advantages to propane: Fixed lowest generator weight, your fuel is always separate The whole carrying gas around, either in the generator or in a can to refuel I’m horrible about long term fuel storage and propane doesn’t go bad. If necessary, it can be connected to the Olivers tanks to get through an emergency situation. Normally I just run it, them, off a standard gas grill tank. If concerned about high altitude use, you can get a higher flow adapter easy enough. The con is the initial cost of the alteration.

 

I am concerned about high altitude operation.  I know about needing to re-jet the carburetor for more efficient high altitude operation.  Is that just for gasoline or do you need to do that with a propane conversion as well?  By "higher flow adapter" do you mean for the propane regulator?

 

Are there any other cons about a propane generator besides the price?  Is the output capacity any lower?

 

Why would you connect it to the Oliver's tanks only in an emergency?


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Thanks everybody. There seem to be as many opinions as there are generators. We will submit a report of our experience after we return from Alaska in the fall. Anybody going to Alaska this summer?

 

Bruce and Lois Ashley Fisher2

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Just a comment about running the AC: the Air Command smaller unit (9500, no heat strip) runs fine off my Yamaha 2400 generator with no soft start needed.

Hi John, was this smaller Air Command AC a published option when you ordered your Ollie? Or was it a “Secret Menu” item?

Yes, it was a special order, I do not know if they will still do this. It is a very quiet unit.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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I am concerned about high altitude operation. I know about needing to re-jet the carburetor for more efficient high altitude operation. Is that just for gasoline or do you need to do that with a propane conversion as well? By “higher flow adapter” do you mean for the propane regulator? Are there any other cons about a propane generator besides the price? Is the output capacity any lower? Why would you connect it to the Oliver’s tanks only in an emergency?

 

As MountainOliver mentions, GenConnex is who I purchased the conversion kits from, I did both of them myself, each took about an hour to do. As a company, they are great to deal with, much like dealing with the Oliver people, they are somewhat local to me, couple hours away and when I was in a hurry and couldn't wait for overnight shipping, they left the kit outside under the bushes so I could swing by to grab it to get it done.

 

If you tell them you need the high altitude kit they'll throw it in for you when they send it. It isn't changing out the regulator, it replaces the orifice where their components replace where the carburetor was. I haven't noticed any power loss/difference from how a 2000 watt Generac I have runs, I do believe there is supposed to be some loss with propane but I've never noticed it.

 

I prefer to use easily refillable 20lb grill type tanks, they travel in the back of the truck, so they can be refilled whenever you venture out to civilization and isn't using the heating/cooking supply. It's also what I'm used to, I've switched out all my home power tools to corded electric, so this setup travels my property with me to do anything. No more little gas engines....

 

Here is some research info for you, a could steps in from the above link.

 

http://www.genconnexdirect.net/honda_generator_propane_kits.htm

 

 

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Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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Randy, do you have a storage rack for your small bottles? Pictures?

 

Some folks may be unaware that they must always be transported upright.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks for the info Randy.  I'm definitely looking hard at one of those kits.

 

I don't have a good place to transport another tank (and I really don't want to add the weight or cost of the front storage basket) so I'm thinking of keeping one of the two 30 lb'ers for the RV and use the other for the generator.  For boondocking that will be enough run time.  If we're going to be spending extended time in hot climates we'll be somewhere with hookups anyway.


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Randy, do you have a storage rack for your small bottles? Pictures? Some folks may be unaware that they must always be transported upright. John Davies Spokane WA

 

No rack, and honestly I too was not aware that they MUST be kept upright, common sense figured they should be though, so...

 

This is how they traveled in the old truck.

 

Thanks


Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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Some folks may be unaware that they must always be transported upright.

 

I can envision a reason for the tank to be upright during use, but why during transport?  Sorry for the slight derail of topic.  My primary reason for getting the front propane connection is for fuel to a generator.


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I've always been told that it has to do with the pressure relief valve.  Chances are that if the tank is stored on its side, the level of propane will cover that valve.  Therefore, if the valve were to open due to excess pressure then actual propane (in liquid state) would come out the valve - potentially causing all sorts of unwanted problems.  Conversely, by storing the tanks upright the pressure would be relieved by only gas coming out - still a potential problem but not so problematic as  with the liquid.

 

Bill

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