Looking for the best way to change out the bathroom faucet

[Markmck]

We received a new faucet from Oliver due to pitting and corrosion but not sure how to change it

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[Mike and Carol]

Could you provide a little more information? What year is your Oliver? I’m pretty sure they changed out bathroom faucets at some point. Which faucet do you have?

 

You are going to need to remove the panel on the front of the sink pedestal to get to the connections. There should be four screws on the front (behind covers) and then cut through the caulking with a utility knife and pull the panel off. It will be tethered by an electrical connection for the water pump. Once you’re in there, you should be able to access the connections. When you replace the front panel you’ll want to re-caulk. It’s easy to do, you can find white caulk at Home Depot or Lowes. I did mine a few years ago and it still looks fine (not for a faucet replacement, we still have the original). Mike

[John E Davies]

I can’t add to that, but I do suggest, if you have the Natures Head toilet, to find the unused water line that goes to the small ball valve on the floor behind the toilet. Cut and plug the supply line under the sink close to where it tees off the faucet cold water line. That way you will no longer have to winterize that pesky section of unused plumbing. It really should have been done at the factory when the NH was installed.

 

If you have a regular toilet, then never mind. Good luck.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Townesw]

I’ve been under my sink to realign the faucet after replacing the cartridge. Use plastic razor blades to remove old caulk from the shelf and vanity. ASI 0240 works real well to remove old caulk. ASI 335 is what I just used to reseal my shower pan. I think you’ll need one of these wrenches to keep from having to use a pair of Channellock plies which will mar your new faucet

 

 

Wrench in use

 

 

What it looks like under there

 

 

Be sure to “clock” the faucet centerline so that it is perpendicular to the wall otherwise the wand will either hit the wall or swivel out from above the sink and the hot vs. cold adjustment will be awkward.

 

 

[Townesw]

Make sure hose is not twisted. It will pull out and go back in much easier.

 

 

 

Mark these wires before you unplug them

 

 

 

[Townesw]

Stuff you will need

 

https://www.americansealantsinc.com/adhesivecleanerandremover/

 

https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/

 

PLASTIC razor blades. Do not use steel. Change these plastic blades often. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper-blades/12038/4753744?pos=17

 

Remove the steel blade from this holder and insert a plastic razor blade.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper/12031/4753743?pos=18

[John E Davies]

Bill, thanks very much for the great info and pretty pics. I have not been under there yet to cap off my toilet line, but this encourages me to do it. I like your annotations, looks like you use Photos in IOS. The notes really make the pictures more helpful.

 

Where would one get a thin long socket tool? Home Depot? Is it a standard size?

 

Thanks again.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

 

[Townesw]

Where would one get a thin long socket tool? Home Depot? Is it a standard size?

 

Thanks John. The wrench comes in a set like this

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/shower-valve-socket-wrench-set-96322.html?cid=paid_google

 

I used the 29/32 x 31/32 wrench. You can get the wrench set at “most good hardware stores”.

 

As for the pictures, I take and edit them on my iPhone. It’s often frustrating but I can do it sitting in a chair in the shop.

[Townesw]

...find the unused water line that goes to the small ball valve on the floor behind the toilet. Cut and plug the supply line under the sink close to where it tees off the faucet cold water line.

 

John, here’s the water line you mention

 

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

Townesw, thanks for the great photos and instructions. I'm sure other users will find this very helpful through the years.

Sherry

[John E Davies]

Just a suggestion ... whenever any owner opens up a hidden compartment like this, be sure to use nylon wire ties to secure dangling wires and hoses. The factory still has not learned this, it appears. This “rats nest” is very disappointing to me....

 

 

Loose wires and lines flop around, chafe, loosen or break electrical connections, start water leaks and just look untidy. Five minutes with ties makes things secure and you won’t worry so much about failures down the road. Adding split loom would be even better, but more time consuming and not absolutely needed.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[JRK]

Thanks Bill, for the reference to this post. This will be helpful to untwist the hose. If I knew which way to turn it, or if it would be able to be untwisted without removing the front panel, I would do that. Maybe I should remove the front panel anyway to fix other issues, or to verify other issues are not there (or are).

Not securing wiring or plumbing is a surprise. That is rather important for any use, but when in a moving vehicle subject to vibrations and bouncing, it is imperative. At delivery, I was told that the refrigerator plug is now secured with a tie wrap. It would fall out due to vibration and weight of the cord. I don't like using a tie wrap. A "space saver" plug would have helped a lot. But it should be better than it was, for a while. 

John

[SNY SD UP]

JD,

I am assuming that this is a view from the top into the bathroom vanity.

Within the black circle, are bolts like this covered on the protruding end, so they do not rub/abrade the water lines or wiring, or is the distance enough, so no problemo...

Finally, is that (yellow) romex in that area.  i have not seen any yet, in the few areas i have been looking into, but maybe i am just looking enough, or need to pay attention.

 

 

[mossemi]

That’s just an area that could use a pool noodle!

Mossey

 

[Sak]

It doesn't look like any wrench tools will help disassemble the faucet in my 2021 Elite 2. If anyone has any other ideas, I would love hear them. Really don't want to use a channel plier.

[mossemi]

8 hours ago, Sak said:

It doesn't look like any wrench tools will help disassemble the faucet in my 2021 Elite 2. If anyone has any other ideas, I would love hear them. Really don't want to use a channel plier.

Read this entire posting, there is a link to the proper tool under a post by Townesw.

 Mossey

[Geronimo John]

I momentarily thought I saw a model number for this faucet.  Have reread the thread, but apparently my eyes are fooling me again.  

I would appreciate knowing the faucet model number.  And golden bonus info would be the repair cartridge you used.

thank you

GJ

[Townesw]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I momentarily thought I saw a model number for this faucet.  Have reread the thread, but apparently my eyes are fooling me again.  

I would appreciate knowing the faucet model number.  And golden bonus info would be the repair cartridge you used.

thank you

GJ

Here is the response I received from Jason in July 2019 regarding faucet model number used in Hull 313.

 

 

 

Here’s the cartridge I used. Get a couple of spares. I ordered one from Amazon and Dura sent me one under warranty. I need to replace mine again. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dura-Faucet-DF-RK601-Cartridge-Replacement/dp/B072BVH7KB

 

Don’t forget the socket wrench. Mine came from a set that I bought at a Menards in Marquette MI. It’ll make the job real easy. You may have to clock the faucet base if it has been twisted out of position.  See my write up in this thread.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 4 by Townesw

[Geronimo John]

Perfect!  15 years ago I needed one of those wrenches so bought the set.  They have been hanging on the wall since then untouched.  So, YEA I can use one of them again.

thanks for the model number and cartridge info.  Very good info to have in my KEEPER file.

GJ

Edited April 4 by Geronimo John
typo

[topgun2]

3 hours ago, Townesw said:

Don’t forget the socket wrench. Mine came from a set that I bought at a Menards in Marquette MI. It’ll make the job real easy.

Harbor Freight currently has what looks to be the same socket set at a "reduced price" of $10.99.  It is SKU #96322.

Bill