Rear leveler / jack not working

[wave1127]

The rear jack on my 2016 Elite II (hull 120) has stopped working. It is on the side near the water pump / water heater. When I depress the switch in either direction, no movement occurs, and no sound at all is made. It seems like the electricity just isn't getting to the jack at all. (I did turn off/on the main electric switch as I was going through my steps below for safety/testing)

Trouble shooting so far:

1. plugged into running vehicle to make sure it had enough juice

2. tested other rear jack - it's working; 

3. switched out the inline fuse between the two jacks; didn't change anything

4. switched out the wiring to the switches used to move the jacks (inside the propane tank storage area); didn't change anything

5. visually inspected the jack and wiring - it all looks fine

Does anyone have any other suggestions on how I might get the jack working again? I've probably only used the camper 20 times since we picked it up, so I kind of doubt the jack is just broken... it just hasn't been used that much.

 

Thanks for any suggestions! Ken and Tina Short

Edited February 27, 2020 by wave1127

[Mike and Carol]

Could be a bad switch?  Maybe move the wires to the good side and see if that switch makes any difference.

[Frank C]

Will it crank manually at all?  Or is it locked up?

[topgun2]

I agree with FrankC - try moving the square knob that is right on top of the jack.  If that doesn't make it move then give it a light tap under the bottom of the jack on the exterior and then try to manually move it (square knob on top) again.  If that doesn't do it - drop back and punt 🙂.  Or, call Jason in Service.

Bill

[Mattnan]

We recently had a similar issue. Frustrating as we went through All of the steps mentioned above including calling Jason.  We had some othe issues and had a tech out working on our refrigerator.  We asked him to look at the Jack. Well long story short.

After previously checking the fuses on 3 seperate occasions including with a meter it turned out to be the fuse.  Initially you could not visually see the fuse was blown on the first 3 inspections. This time you could see it.  We replaced the fuse and were back in business. It was very frustrating and embarrassing as I had checked it 2 times and an auto mechanic that was in our camp ground and has also worked on rvs for 15 years missed it too. Maybe try turning the main power off swapping the fuse and turn the main power on. I cannot explain why this worked!!  Good luck, I feel your pain!!!

[Maverick]

You need to use 30 amp slow blow fuses for all three jacks.

 

[Patriot]

Here is the link which I ordered a few spare 30 amp SLO BLO fuses (BK-MDL-30) from in advance of taking delivery of our Ollie in May.
Hope this helps.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BK-MDL-30?qs=LpXnx4WbYtBNkVBbf00eIQ==&fbclid=IwAR21oQIxbMZJ3zFCt7Vp9TtT3cM7PfbNEPGlLg-5bOPTLfnK4ZyT3SN-eP8

-David

Edited March 4, 2020 by Patriot

[wave1127]

Thank you all for the responses!

Mike and Carol... that was my #4 step (changed over the switches to make sure it wasn't a switch)

Mattnan ... that was my #3 step (switched the fuses between the two jacks to make sure it wasn't the fuse)

Frank C and Topgun ... I will give that a try and see what happens.

[Patriot]

My extra SLO BLO Fuses arrived today. I hope we never have a need for them. 
 

 

 

Edited March 5, 2020 by Patriot

[Mike and Carol]

We’ve been carrying them around for years hoping to never need them. So far, so good!  It’s better to have them and not need them than to be stuck with the hand crank...  Mike

[wave1127]

As mentioned in my original post, in my case, it's not the fuses. I switched them out and the jack that was working, kept working (with the potential problem fuse), and the jack that wasn't working was still not working (with the known good fuse).

I finally had a chance to follow the advice of FrankC and topgun2, and using the lug wrench, the jack easily moved. It wasn't stuck at all.

Next step.... calling Jason in service to see what he says.

[bhncb]

Follow the fuse holder wire down about a foot. There will be a yellow butt splice connection with the trailer wiring that goes forward to the switch. If the connection looks to still be together,  give the wires a slight tug to check the crimps.

Also,  a cheap 12V test light would save you a lot of time and work trouble shooting.

[Galway Girl]

Thanks to you for this string...and Patriot's link to the Mouser site...I ordered 2 extra sets.

Hope you find the solution to the issue soon.

Craig

[wave1127]

Final resolution: replace the jack motor

I spoke to Jason at Oliver. Reviewed my troubleshooting steps as outlined in my original post. He felt there was a problem with the jack. He provided me with the name / number of a representative at the jack manufacturer, Barker Manufacturing. Contact as of March 2020 is Bob Asher Phone: 888-367-6978 x 2611 email boba@barkermfg.com. With Bob, once again reviewed my prior steps. He felt it was the jack motor. He sold me one at their cost (about $75) and shipped it out. I replaced the motor and that fixed the problem.

Replacing the motor wasn't too difficult. As I'm sure you all know, it's under the bed. Need to loosen three set screws, cut the wires, take out the top-of-the-jack assembly. Take it apart to get the motor out, then reassemble. Re attach the wires, and tighten set screws.

[topgun2]

Wave1127 - 

Any idea of what caused the motor to die?  Any "smell" of burned things around the coil or signs of wiring overload?

Glad you got it fixed and it was nice of Barker to "work with you" on this.

Bill

[John E Davies]

I am glad you figured it out. Pictures please, or it never happened..... 😀

John Davies

Spokane WA