New from Wisconsin

[Larry and Linda]

My wife and I have ordered a LE 2 twin model which we will be picking up in early May.  I have some questions about options that we need to finalize by early Feb.  

I was planning to get 4 lead acid batteries to start and then when those die I would consider getting lithium batteries.  Lithium batteries seem crazy expensive.  I would think you could convert the connections from 4 batteries to the 2 lithium batteries, is that correct?  We have decided against solar panels since most of our camping will be done at established campgrounds and in Wisconsin there are many cloudy days plus most campsites are shaded so we wouldn't get much benefit from them.  We did order a plug for a solar panel so we could add a suitcase panel if we go somewhere where we would get lots of sunshine.

My main question is getting 30 vs 20 lb propane tanks.  The 20 lb tanks are more available and lighter to lift.  The 30 lb tanks are bigger and would last longer.  I do enjoy skiing in the winter and might think of staying in the trailer on a ski trip usually for 3-5 days.  I am trying to figure out how much propane you need.  I have read the forums and there seems to be a wide range of posts about how long propane will last heating with the furnace.  One post said that with temps in the 20-30's you will use 4-5 gal of propane per day which would be a whole 20 lb tank plus.  On the other end of the spectrum another post 6 days with overnight lows on the 20's used about 7.5 gal of propane.  Another option would be to carry a third 20 lb tank in the truck bed.  I would appreciate thoughts of those who have more experience.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Larry

[Galway Girl]

Propane:

Propane use also depends upon if you've decided to use propane for outside fire pits, BBQ's or Gas Grills. 
We love having a gas fire pit as it provides heat but cuts down on smokey smells into the trailer.
We also have often used either a weber gas Grill or our CampChef grill system for cooking outdoors.

We bought and love the propane quick connect option.

We find we use those external devices as well as running the fridge on propane.

With all those gas uses, we decided to buy the 30lb tanks and have been happy to have more rather than less propane as it doesn't go bad.

We've even found that when we stop to have the tanks refilled that the person filling them will lift them in and out if you simply ask. (In a couple cases, we had drive up filling service.

Batteries:
As to your comments about batteries...we didn't have the option in 2019 for factory lithium.  
I would have gone right away to lithium, but as normal with newer technology things are changing fast in the market.

If you decide to upgrade later to lithium you'll want to make sure to upgrade the "Progressive Dymanics Charge Converter" that is within your trailer.  (It's where your breakers and fuses are also available) 
The default on board Progressive Dynamics battery charger is designed for Lead Acid/AGM's.
There is a different version that works for LiOn battery chemistry.

(You might check with your salesman as now that on board charger may be lithium compatible with a switch setting, if so you'll be ready when you want to upgrade to Lithium in the future.)

Here's our BLOG it may have some useful info and includes the "Oliver Trailer Outfitters" list on Amazon.

Blog for Hull 505 - Galway Girl

(PS - Our daughter lives in Madison and is the set designer for PBS Wisconsin...we plan to come back there next September (if COVID is dropping off.)

 

Hull 505 - Galway Girl

 

 

[topgun2]

Larry - 

Since I rarely camp in the winter and (as you point out) the 20 lb tanks are very easy to either swap out or get refilled, I chose to not upgrade to the 30 lb tanks and have not regretted that decision.  Since I really don't know what temps you will be camping in during the winter, it is hard to tell or even guess what your propane usage might be.  But, I only use just over one 20 lb tank in the two months during the summer I'm fishing.  This includes having the fridge always on propane and heating water from time to time when there is not enough sun for my solar shower and for a brief warming of the interior on those mornings when it is cold outside due to usually camping above 7,000 feet.

Bill

[SeaDawg]

Welcome to the group!

We normally fill our tanks at a Tractor Supply,  or other supplier that charges by the pound instead of "flat rate fill." 20 lb tanks are easier to handle. Tractor supply attendants will not lift the tanks out for you. A spare is easy to carry in the truck bed, if necessary. (Always contained/strapped to insure it stays upright.)

We camp in shoulder season, not winter, if we can avoid it. 🙂 I've never really spent much time monitoring our propane usage, as we refill when one bottle empties. In an Elite with just 2 batteries, usually without hookups, I'm more concerned about 12v to run the power greedy furnace fan. If you have 110, you can easily supplement the furnace with a small electric heater.

If you normally camp at serviced campgrounds, with electric hookups, I certainly don't see much advantage to lithium. Nor full solar. Your suitcase solar, with 4 batteries,  will probably give you enough power to manage a long weekend, or a week, if you can conserve power. 

I do love agm for many reasons, including cold weather, and no real maintenance.  Will you be parking your trailer at home? (Many of us here cannot.) If you are, and can keep the fla batteries plugged into a charger, so they remain fully charged, and are willing to do the appropriate  checks and maintenance,  flooded is fine. And included.

As I said, we don't have hookups most of the time. We make our power from the sun. So, our situation is very different. 

Good luck with your decisions.  It's really difficult these days, with all the available options.

 

 

[SeaDawg]

Btw, part of my mother's family lives in Wisconsin,  and great grandparents emigrated to Wisconsin.  

You live in a camping paradise, imo. A varied, and beautiful landscape. I'm sure you will enjoy your camping explorations, as we have, camping in your beautiful state.

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

You live in a camping paradise, imo. A varied, and beautiful landscape. I'm sure you will enjoy your camping explorations, as we have, camping in your beautiful state.

Certainly I agree but sure do wish someone could find a way of keeping all those cows quiet 😆.

[SeaDawg]

47 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

Certainly I agree but sure do wish someone could find a way of keeping all those cows quiet 😆.

That's funny. 😅

[Larry and Linda]

Thanks for all the replies and information.  Good food for thought.

Larry

 

[Larry and Linda]

We have finalized our LE 2 order.  Now I am looking for advice on accessories for the trailer.

I am planning on getting the Andersen ultimate trailer gear package for leveling, chocking and pads for stabilizer jacks.  Would I need anything else?

I have read that a water filter is a good idea?  Do you have suggestions for a water filter.

I have also read that you should use a polarity and voltage tester to make sure you have safe power at campgrounds?  Suggestions for one of those.

I understand you get a 30 to 15 amp converter plug with the trailer.  Would you ever need a 50 to 30 amp converter plug?  In looking at some campgrounds it looks like if they have 50 amp service they also have 30 amp service.

We are getting a rear hitch on the back of the trailer for a bike rack.  I have been looking at various models of that but many of them specifically say not for use on back of an RV or trailer.  Does someone have suggestions of a bike rack for 2 bikes?

I have read that some campgrounds require a sewer hose support.  Suggestions for one of those.

I did print off a list of tools, fuses and other things you should have.  Is there any other things we should be thinking about getting?

Thanks, Larry

[BillATX]

Full Disclosure - I am a NEWBIE RV owner.  I have owned our Ollie (Elite 1) for less than a month.  With that said, I just recently had all of the questions you listed above and here are my thoughts.  I hope this helps, but there are experienced contributors to this forum who generously share their knowledge.

I am planning on getting the Andersen ultimate trailer gear package for leveling, chocking and pads for stabilizer jacks.  Would I need anything else?

The Andersen's are easy to use.  I also got these stabilizer blocks and these chocks.  

I have read that a water filter is a good idea?  Do you have suggestions for a water filter.

I got this filter and I also got this water pressure regulator

I have also read that you should use a polarity and voltage tester to make sure you have safe power at campgrounds?  Suggestions for one of those.

I do not yet have one of these, but I am considering it.

I understand you get a 30 to 15 amp converter plug with the trailer.  Would you ever need a 50 to 30 amp converter plug?  In looking at some campgrounds it looks like if they have 50 amp service they also have 30 amp service.

I got this 30A female to 15A male adapter and a 12 gauge extension cord.  I do not yet have a 50A to 30A adapter.

We are getting a rear hitch on the back of the trailer for a bike rack.  I have been looking at various models of that but many of them specifically say not for use on back of an RV or trailer.  Does someone have suggestions of a bike rack for 2 bikes?

I also got the rear hitch, but haven't put a bike rack on it yet.

I have read that some campgrounds require a sewer hose support.  Suggestions for one of those.

I did the compost option.  I drain gray waste through a garden hose with one of these with no hose support

I did print off a list of tools, fuses and other things you should have.  Is there any other things we should be thinking about getting?

The water hose supplied by Oliver is very stiff and hard to use.   I replaced with a Zero G hose

[BackofBeyond]

L & L

I would add to Bill's note -

Purchase an inexpensive GFI tester - something like this will do what you need. KAIWEETS Outlet Tester 48-250V, Receptacle Tester with Voltage Display, GFCI Tester CAT II 300V, Includes 7 Visual Indications and Wiring Legend for Home & Professional Use - - Amazon.com  Or similar .

Have at least 50 ft of water hose - Just in case. 

And a few of these at various sizes - very handy! Nite Ize Gear Tie Reusable Rubber Twist Tie Assortment in Variable Colors-S-GTBA-R8 - The Home Depot

RB

[Mike and Carol]

Larry, glad to hear your Ollie is on the way!

We don’t use the Andersen levelers, but understand that they work well.   If the gear package includes some kind of block for under the jacks, you should be good to go.

I would recommend a water filter.  The blue Camco filter works well.  I recently got a Culligan cartridge type filter that seems to be pretty good too, it’s a little more work and I still carry a blue Camco!  The water gauge that Bill mentions above is what we use.  It is adjustable.

We don’t have the on board surge protector so we use the kind that plugs into the power pole.  It tests the circuit before allowing a connection.  We also carry a GFI tester.

We have both a 30 to 15 and a 50 to 30 adapter.  In 5 years I’ve used the 50 to 30 twice, once due to a flaky 30a plug on the power pole and once because a 50a plug was the only plug on the power pole.  There is probably not a rush to get one, but the 30 to 15 will get more use.

We have a sewer hose support, I think it is called a Sidewinder by Camco.  I use it about half the time I have a sewer connection, especially when the dump hole is a bit elevated.  You want a straight downhill path for your black and gray fluids to travel, if not you end up having to lift the hose.

I also have a Zero G fresh water hose.  It is easier to handle in cool/cold weather.  

Good luck!  Mike

[JRK]

Camco seems to provide decent products. I have used the Camco blue water filter for years (pre Oliver). I  carried the camco black/gray water drain hose support, but never needed to, or wanted to, use it. The power assessor, polarity and voltage that RB suggests is a good product. I am cheap, so use a $6 one from Fry's - when they were open (Radio Shack or other electronics place should have one) and use a Harbor Freight model that does the job for about $5. I have a separate volt meter that I put in, and will put in, the electrical system. The test device is to make sure that the pedestal was wired properly, is still wired properly, and that the correct voltage is being supplied. Not good to accidentally plug into 240 volts, or to find that there is a floating neutral that just happened which could cause fires, equipment damage, electrical shock and or stray current that would not be controlled by the circuit breaker or GFCI.  I use them for work, along with other electrical circuitry test equipment.  The ones I have are 15 amp, so you might need an adapter. Does anyone use a 30 amp tester? You might also eventually get an AFCI - Arc FAult Circuit Interrupter that you would plug your power cable into. The circuit breaker will not protect against an arc event.  Eventually have a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter that you will need once every other year, but when you need it, that would be the only way to get power. Again, Camco sells an adapter. I also use a water pressure regulator, the same one listed here.

Camco products are available at Walmart (or they were a few years ago. Haven't checked in a while). The only reason I specifically go into a WalMart is for camping supplies. The last time I was in the local WalMart for camping/trailer/RV equipment they had a full aisle of products. You can find things that you didn't know you needed. One of my favorite stores, Tractor Supply, also has trailer equipment. 

I will leave for Oliver in less than 2 weeks to pick up my Elite I. It will hopefully be a happy St. Patrick's Day and evening in Crockett SP.

John

[Larry and Linda]

Thanks for the responses I really appreciate it.

Larry

[GarryandKristi]

On 3/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, Larry and Linda said:

We have finalized our LE 2 order.  Now I am looking for advice on accessories for the trailer.

I am planning on getting the Andersen ultimate trailer gear package for leveling, chocking and pads for stabilizer jacks.  Would I need anything else?

We have the Anderson levelers and find those are very handy. Don’t think you’ll need anything else not listed. Their has only been 1 time that the Andersen leveler range could not level our trailer. We just augmented with some square plastic pads - looked okie but worked. 

On 3/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, Larry and Linda said:

I have read that a water filter is a good idea?  Do you have suggestions for a water filter.

We’ve used camco filters. The short flex hose on ours developed a leak (not just a gasket problem) so I made a replacement using a section of garden hose and a hose repair kit for male/female ends. 

On 3/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, Larry and Linda said:

I have also read that you should use a polarity and voltage tester to make sure you have safe power at campgrounds?  Suggestions for one of those.

We have never had issues with power. I think the onboard power management systems of the Oliver’s guard against poor quality power. The readout in ours is in the attic but don’t know where display is on the new models. 

On 3/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, Larry and Linda said:

I understand you get a 30 to 15 amp converter plug with the trailer.  Would you ever need a 50 to 30 amp converter plug?  In looking at some campgrounds it looks like if they have 50 amp service they also have 30 amp service.

If a campground has 50 amp service they will normally also have 30 amp service.  We do carry a 30 to 50 amp adapter plug.  The most frustrating think we have found at campgrounds is the alignment of the receptacles and the cutouts for the cords of the box (most of the time they don’t seem to align). If you get the furrion 30 amp cord and it has a big plug head like ours does, you may find out that it will not fully plug in to the outlet box due to the above-stated issue.  Our solution was to purchase a short 30 amp extension cord (30 amp) for those instances.  The extension plug will be smaller than the furrion allowing for complete seating into the receptacle  

We are getting a rear hitch on the back of the trailer for a bike rack.  I have been looking at various models of that but many of them specifically say not for use on back of an RV or trailer.  Does someone have suggestions of a bike rack for 2 bikes?

We purchased a “swagman bike RV towing mount”. The nice thing about it is that is does not require any other hardware or adaption. It will slide over the Andersen hitch bar (a square collar around the bar). It accommodates 2 bikes. It may be a bit tricky to orient and load the 2 bikes so pedals don’t clash,etc. but once you figure that out it’s. not a big deal. 

On 3/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, Larry and Linda said:

I have read that some campgrounds require a sewer hose support.  Suggestions for one of those.

I did print off a list of tools, fuses and other things you should have.  Is there any other things we should be thinking about getting?

Thanks, Larry

 

[Larry and Linda]

Thanks for your suggestions.

Larry

[RoadKingsofGA]

On 3/1/2021 at 3:40 PM, Mike and Carol said:

Larry, glad to hear your Ollie is on the way!

We don’t use the Andersen levelers, but understand that they work well.   If the gear package includes some kind of block for under the jacks, you should be good to go.

I would recommend a water filter.  The blue Camco filter works well.  I recently got a Culligan cartridge type filter that seems to be pretty good too, it’s a little more work and I still carry a blue Camco!  The water gauge that Bill mentions above is what we use.  It is adjustable.

We don’t have the on board surge protector so we use the kind that plugs into the power pole.  It tests the circuit before allowing a connection.  We also carry a GFI tester.

We have both a 30 to 15 and a 50 to 30 adapter.  In 5 years I’ve used the 50 to 30 twice, once due to a flaky 30a plug on the power pole and once because a 50a plug was the only plug on the power pole.  There is probably not a rush to get one, but the 30 to 15 will get more use.

We have a sewer hose support, I think it is called a Sidewinder by Camco.  I use it about half the time I have a sewer connection, especially when the dump hole is a bit elevated.  You want a straight downhill path for your black and gray fluids to travel, if not you end up having to lift the hose.

I also have a Zero G fresh water hose.  It is easier to handle in cool/cold weather.  

Good luck!  Mike

Mike,  What external type surge protector do you use?  We want one as additional precaution, and use it to fry/sacrifice at the power pole rather than our camper's unit.

thanks,
Jenna

[Mike and Carol]

59 minutes ago, Jenna said:

Mike,  What external type surge protector do you use?  We want one as additional precaution, and use it to fry/sacrifice at the power pole rather than our camper's unit.

thanks,
Jenna

We got a Camco 30a surge protector from Amazon.  It works well, when you plug it in it doesn’t pass power for about 45 seconds until after it has checked to make sure everything is okay.  The only thing I don’t like about it is that it is yellow and very noticeable.  Progressive Industries makes a good one too and they are black, a little less noticeable when hanging from the power pole.  Either is good.  We’ve used ours a lot over the last 5 years and it has performed well.  Mike

[ScubaRx]

RE propane: We have the 30 lb tanks. We have had a tank last as long as 55 days of boondocking. This would include heating water, running the refrigerator, and some cool evenings and mornings of light furnace use. 
 

Trapped in a Walmart parking lot in Pampa, TX during an ice storm, we spent 3 nights and 4 days in sub freezing temperatures and winds up to 40 mph of snow, sleet and rain. We used maybe half a bottle of propane. 
 

My opinion is the only time you have too much fuel is when you’re on fire.