Code 10, norcold 3000 series fridge

[Moonlight Mile]

Moved from another topic.

Edited February 3, 2021 by SeaDawg

[Moonlight Mile]

Out of data - anyone know how to clear “10” flashing error on fridge? Happened first day and tech said flip fridge breaker. Not wkg. Thanks. Just parked at new site. Fridge stuff will go bad.

[topgun2]

Hopefully you have already found the solution to this code 10 error code and/or found a way to clear it.

If you haven't - what is the model number and brand of your fridge?  A quick Google with that information just might give you your answer.

Bill

[topgun2]

From the 2021 Owner's Manual for the Norcold fridge:  If this is the fridge you have then there is NO code 10 listed nor is there any numerical code listed - just alpha codes.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by topgun2

[SteveCr]

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/626800B_SM_N41N500N51.pdf

Here is a link to the Norcold N41x service manual...if that is your model. I did not see a "10" error code...unless it is flashing a temp.

[Frank C]

It’s only a single character display (at least it is on my Norcold fridge).  How can it show a “10”?  

Edited February 3, 2021 by FrankC

[Moonlight Mile]

OTT returned call - eventually. Not a clue. Told me to call again at next campground. Grr.

Edited February 3, 2021 by SherMica

[Moonlight Mile]

15 minutes ago, FrankC said:

It’s only a single character display (at least it is on my Norcold fridge).  How can it show a “10”?  

Got me. It says 10. OTT had me removing galley drawers and unscrewing a very hard to reach plywood panel. “Maybe the cord came loose.” On flat interstate all day? Cannot even get to “cord” but felt around and nothing dangling. This is not good.

[Moonlight Mile]

58 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

Hopefully you have already found the solution to this code 10 error code and/or found a way to clear it.

If you haven't - what is the model number and brand of your fridge?  A quick Google with that information just might give you your answer.

Bill

Tried that. N3000 series. I think it says. I should not be having to remove cabinetry, unscrew tiny impossible-to-reach plywood panels hidden in hull, buy and install proper breakaway cables, etc. on a brand-new $61K trailer. Sorry. Ban me from forum. I am “highly irked.” To put it mildly. Hope they read this. 

[SteveCr]

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norcold-n1350-owners-manual.pdf

N3000 owner manual link above....Code 10 indicates AC is not available....try DC/Propane or auto.

[Moonlight Mile]

5 minutes ago, SteveCr said:

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norcold-n1350-owners-manual.pdf

N3000 owner manual link above....Code 10 indicates AC is not available....try DC/Propane or auto.

Tried everything. On battery. Got cabinets back together and screwed plywood back together. Was told to call tomorrow at next campsite. And wondering why I am having to call them. Shouldn’t they be calling me? Followup? Making it right? Just a thought. Good night all. Thanks. It’s not you. 

Edited February 3, 2021 by SherMica

[SeaDawg]

Did you drive all day with the fridge set to electric instead of set to  off or propane? That would probably trigger the code. 

Try turning the fridge off for awhile, then try running it on propane.

Are you plugged into 110 now? Is 110 working elsewhere in the trailer? (Like, does your little electric heater work?)

Edited February 3, 2021 by SeaDawg
Typos

[Moonlight Mile]

17 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

Did you drove all day with the fridge set to electric instead if off or propane? That would probably trigger the code. 

Try turning the fridge off for awhile, then try running it on propane.

Are you plugged into 110 now? Is 110 working elsewhere in the trailer? (Like, does your little electric heater work?)

Will def try what you suggest tomorrow, thank you. Wondering why service dept. did not ask this or mention this possible solution during repeated contacts today. Yes drove with it on “auto” as was told to do. Sigh. Small heater, clipon fan, iphone charger, cabin lights, all working. On battery? Connected to shore power. Reset breakers (main and fridge in cabin), flipped shore power pedestal off and on as directed, tech also had me hunt for a button under dining table and there were two and I asked which one and lost call. Repeated calls back getting voicemails and left messages. Service’s last call after I had unscrewed plywood in hull and removed two galley drawers said to call tomorrow when I get to next campsite (5 hr + drive all interstate). Since I have to leave early, should I just turn fridge OFF for the 5 hour drive? Or?  Also, friend said I should buy a surge protector (Elite 1 has one built in, yes? But another is better?) Thank you! Going to sleep now but will check here at oh-dark-thirty for any clues.

Edited February 3, 2021 by SherMica

[SeaDawg]

I see. Since your code  10 was "not working on 110," the tech had you reset breakers. Logical.

Not sure, since you lost the call, if you actually reset the breaker to the fridge or not.

If you are plugged in, and 110 appliances  (microwave, portable heater), etc, are working, and breakers have been reset, properly, I also would have suggested looking for the pigtail plugged into the 110 outlet, as the Oliver tech did. In my trailer, it's just removing a drawer. In yours, it sounds like an access panel. Sorry for that.

Sounds to me like he followed a logical process. (Well, my process, anyway)

3 way fridges aren't like home fridges. They work on an absorption theory,  instead of a compressor, like a home fridge. 

It's an old process, but unfamiliar to those who haven't used the technology.

Glad you're working ok on battery. Propane is more efficient.  If you get the code 10 at the next campsite, try the propane instead of dc. It cools far better. Until you get it sorted out. With our much older Norcold, there was a complicated reset if resetting the breaker, or removing all power for a time, didn't do the trick. Not something to do at the end of a day's drive. I don't know about your specific model, but, since it's norcold, may be the same/similar.

While driving, I'd turn the unit to "off", rather than electric or auto, if you're not comfortable driving on propane.  Auto on some norcold fridges sends you to dc, and that can drain your batteries in the trailer. At least it did on ours, when we had a 3 way Norcold. The fridge is power hungry on dc/battery.

We're one of those who drive with the fridge on propane (age old debate). Not everyone is comfortable with driving with the fridge on propane.  Just turn the fridge to "off," if not.  Unless you're in extreme heat, a few hours in off with a loaded fridge is usually fine.

 

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by SeaDawg

[JRK]

I pick up mine in March. I Need to know these things. Or do I buy an escape instead. 
refer-if the refrigerator is plugged into a 110v receptacle, the plug may have fallen out/not making contact. That was the reason for removing the drawer/panel, to check for plug making good contact. Similar issue with microwave. This does not make sense to me, why it would be hidden, but apparently is. Needs to be checked. 
Only other reasonable issue is the possible need to reset refer control panel. Probably needs to be done by a service technician. Instructions show removing panels and shorting connectors. Norcold customer service can help. 
To verify wiring is correct inside the wall, an ac receptacle tester can be used on the receptacles. testers are not too expensive at hardware stores or harbor freight or Amazon. Easy to use, and can be used at campgrounds to verify pedestals are properly wired. Again, access to receptacle is not easy to use. 
Code indicates not getting ac, 110V, to refer. Either not plugged in, receptacle is faulty or not properly wired, or refer computer not recognizing incoming AC. 
If refer works, cools, on propane or battery, then it is working. Most likely AC plug is not properly seated in AC receptacle, just like a house receptacle. 
Hope your night’s sleep was restful, and poochie is feeling better. 

[Frank C]

If you are plugged in to AC shore power at the campsite, there is usually a circuit breaker on the post where you plug in.  Make sure that circuit breaker is ON.   Standard practice is to shut it off before plugging in, plug in your shore power cord,  then flip the breaker on.   And turn the breaker OFF again before unplugging when you are leaving.   This practice prevents electrical arcing damage to the outlet and your plug.

And some other trouble shooting suggestions:

Since the fridge display is giving the “10” error code that means it’s expecting AC power and not seeing any.   Are you sure you are in “AUTO” mode on the fridge?  Sounds like you might be in AC mode, but not actually connected to AC.  

If you are in AUTO mode or AC mode and it’s still flashing 10 with shore power connected (and shore power breaker ON), try manually switching to propane LP mode (and make sure the propane is on), or connect to your tow vehicle with the 7 pin harness and start your truck and switch the fridge to DC mode to see if it works.  

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by FrankC

[Mike and Carol]

8 hours ago, JRK said:

I Need to know these things. Or do I buy an escape instead. 
 

Escapes use the same appliances that are installed in most RV’s, including Oliver.  Is the after sales support from Escape better than Oliver?  Do folks on the Escape forum go out of their way to help and assist fellow Escape owners?  Appliance issues are going to happen with any RV.  I’m watching this to see what the resolution is since it doesn’t seem to be a common problem.  Mike

[topgun2]

JRK - 

I'd echo what Mike just said.

In addition, no matter what RV you might purchase, I'd strongly suggest that you use your time prior to delivery to read everything you can regarding all of the systems on your new RV.  The old Boy Scout motto applies here - Be Prepared.

Even if you don't have the tools and/or ability to do an actual repair, the knowledge gained from your reading will assist you in diagnosing the issues and/or describing the problem to anyone that may be in a position to help you.  I have not memorized the model numbers for each of the things that I have in either my Oliver or my home.  But, I do know where to find that info quickly.  As a safety measure (more than anything else) I know where things are plugged in and what to do if warning lights/sounds come on.  Even if whatever RV you purchase is perfect at delivery and you know exactly how each system works, something eventually will go wrong or break.  Telling your plumber or electrician that you need help with your "thingy" is probably not going to result in a very satisfying experience for either you or your wallet.

Bill

[BackofBeyond]

Sheri,

Take some time away from the forum - go read the Owners manual a few times. Perhaps a few of your concerns will be answered. 

It is especially hard to trouble shoot an issue remotely - Oliver folks on this forum are pretty good at doing so,  however. 

Although Oliver has installed at least two different brands of Refrigerator, all of them are three way powered, and operate in very similar manners. 

AC power (Shore), DC (battery), or propane.  The code you say you have indicates it is looking for AC- and there is none to be had. It must be set on AC power. Could be other issues - start there - but make sure the AC switches in the panel are on, and all fuses are good.  Highly unlikely they are the issue. 

You should have it set on auto - unless - you specifically want it to run off a particular energy source. 

Verify you have at least one energy source -no AC, have propane on - turn both tanks on. DC - look at the Solar display - (That thingie I showed you on the rear upper wall) does it show at least 12 volts. You should be good to go.

Does your manual on the Norcold refer say anything about a reset - if so follow the procedure. Otherwise - do what the manual says to do for each phase of the trouble shooting guide. No guide do the following.

Turn it  - the refer off, let it sit a min - turn it back on, set to auto. You may need to hold the button down for a few seconds - If not working, try setting to propane, no work, try DC.  I would not bet money this is Oliver's fault. I have made a few misjudgment's on my own unit - and after study found I was just not doing something correct. 

As for what RV to purchase - I am not on the payroll - don't care what you buy.

The Escape folks - well they are fine people - I'm told. Oliver RV - you decide.  Most  all  here have done so at least once. 

Good luck

We are all pulling for you.

RB

 

 

 

[Fargoman]

As someone who will be taking delivery of a Legacy Elite 2 in September 2021, I was concerned about the breakaway cable being too short in some situations. I have essentially the same TV as SherMica, so I emailed Phil Andrews to ask what Oliver could do to remedy the problem.

He replied that "The length of the  breakaway is regulated by RVIA.  On most tow vehicles this is not an issue.  For the rare occasion that it is, the breakaway is connected to the truck with a D-link or carabiner type fastener."

I'm planning on bringing an aftermarket coiled breakaway cable on delivery day, just in case I encounter the same issue.

I am so impressed with all the support you all have given SherMica, and have found the Forum such a source of knowledge while I am (trying to be)  patiently waiting for my Ollie to hatch.

[Mattnan]

Our break away cable was a bit short on our 2008 Tundra.  It came out a couple of times.  One time pulling into a parking lot with a drop from the road and steep very short up hill.  Like a water culvert.  This happen 3 weeks into our initial trip. It was unexpected.  Same backing into a tight spot down a hill.  We added a big stainless caribbeaner.  That solved our issues.  The cable was just a bit short.  I believe there was another post about this before it happened to us.  I believe it is important to have this secured to the truck and not safety chains or weight distribution hitch.  Lots of really nice folks on this forum helping us newbies.   

[Mattnan]

We also had an error message on our Norcold fridge   I can not remember the code.  I think it was "E"  We normally drive with the fridge on dc as we don't drive with the propane on.  We were in southern Florida.  When we arrived at our campground in the Keys we realized the fridge was out.  We have medication that must be refrigerated so this is important for us.  We read the manuals tried all of the reset bottoms.  Tried unplugging and plugging the fridge.  Nothing seemed to help. It would not work or allow us to switch to propane.  Oliver was moving their service dept that day so getting help was difficult.  One of the workers at the campground was a retired mechanic.  He helped us a bit at his suggestion he disconnected the battery bank.  Then we reconnected.  This allowed us to work the fridge on propane.  We lost a bunch of food but the campground allowed us to place the medication in their fridge.  We were able to coordinate a technician to come look at the fridge.  The campground was very strict  and strict on who the would let in for repairs and wouldn't let the first technician on site.  Poor reputation and taking folks money and never returning or fixing the problem.  The strickness probably saved us time money and frustration.  The 2nd technician came the next day.  He was terrific.  He got the fridge working he really could not give us a great answer about what went wrong.  He did say sometimes the mother boards could be better.  We didn't have another problem for the rest of our trip.  RV techs are hard to find in the Keys.  However these norcold fridges are also heavily used in the marine industry!!  Our tech was terrific but admitted 99% of his work was on boats.. We had to do some work and place a lot of phone calls etc.  This did work out.  The invoice for service was handled by Oliver.   I was also having issue with one of my rear stabilizer jacks but this was just a fuse.  As a newbie it is easy (at least for me) to get frustrated and harried especially when I can't reach folks.  I am learning to relax a bit more when this happens.  Oliver has been very good with support.  Folks are generally nice and will help out!!

[John E Davies]

FYI, for anybody who is new to these weird fridges. On DC power, the heating element for the cooling coils is on all the time (I think, this not confirmed), and it draws 15 amps at 12 volts. That is a huge drain over a day, especially if you do not have solar and lots of sun for it to work as intended. 15 amps will essentially flatten, and possibly damage, a 100 amp hour battery in about seven hours.

So, be really aware of this heavy load and do not use the DC option unless you know the battery bank is getting replenished soon. The small amount of current coming from your tow vehicle is not nearly adequate! I am one of those who travels with it on Gas, and have never had a problem, but I am very aware of wind direction when refueling the truck, since there may be an open flame twenty feet away. Though the flame does cycle on and off....

Little House Customs makes a neat little clear cover for fridges, to preventt the DC button from accidentally getting pressed.I highly recommend it, and it takes maybe five minutes to install.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by John E Davies

[topgun2]

2 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Little House Customs makes a neat little clear cover for fridges, to prevent the DC button from accidentally getting pressed.I highly recommend it, and it takes maybe five minutes to install.

This part is actually made by a Oliver Forum member - tractors1 - and supplied to Little House Customs.  If interested, you might want to send him a PM and deal direct.  You can read the entire thread about this HERE

Bill

[SeaDawg]

53 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

This part is actually made by a Oliver Forum member - tractors1 - and supplied to Little House Customs.  If interested, you might want to send him a PM and deal direct.  You can read the entire thread about this HERE

Bill

I think that shield is specifically for the Dometic rm2454? I  don't believe Oliver installs that fridge anymore. 

Perhaps he's devised one for the new Norcold models now in use?