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Stabilizer Jack Problem


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Greetings!
 
I am having a problem with the curb side stabilizer jack.  Periodically the jack will not descend.  When it does, it make a horrible racket or clanking like something is loose or broken when it begins to descend.  When you retract it, it doesn't make clicking sound like the other jacks do when they are fully retracted. 
 
I can also report that the toggle switch for the stabilizer jack is also sticking and remains in the "on" position by itself.  The street side toggle does not do that so I am sure that it is not designed to stay on without physical contact.  I have to manually move the switch to stop the retraction.  I don't know if these two items are related but I anticipate they are.  
 
Our typical practice is to lower the jack until it makes firm contact with the round Anderson Jack Block on the ground.
 
The jack hasn't totally failed but I anticipate that it will soon.  What are your thoughts?
 
I have submitted a trouble ticket with Oliver.  They asked for video.  I have sent them the recordings but I thought I would also check with the experts here on the forum.
 
Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Carl
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2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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Your front toggle switches will free up if you spray some silicone lube and work them a little, they get dirt buildup. Get a 3/4” 1/2” drive socket and torque wrench and check the mounting bolts of both rear ones. They should be 43 ft lbs.  Recently my right jack seized and I found the bolts that go vertically down through the frame rail to be super loose, like one full turn. Both jacks were this way. They worked fine after retorquing. I suspect the housing was tilting under load and binding the main shaft. The horizontal bolts inside the trailer were fine.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6812-check-your-rear-jack-mount-hardware-bottom-frame-bolts-were-1-turn-loose/

IF they are loose, please file a followup to your service ticket!


John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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Thanks, I will perform both suggestions.  I used an electrical cleaner on the toggle switches but that did not help resolve the stickiness.  The toggle was sticking from the factory but I did not realize that it was an issue until later.

2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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7 minutes ago, Carl Hansen said:

 The toggle was sticking from the factory but I did not realize that it was an issue until later.

Then the switch may be physically dragging on its cover or the opening, you may have to remove it and perhaps file a bit of extra clearance where it hits. Or maybe just try loosening the screws and shifting the switches a little. The technical term is “fuss with it”.

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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I just went out and checked on the curb side jack. I was able to turn the motor housing with my hand.  There are holes for three set screws to hold the motor in place to the shaft.  None of the set screws are there.  I was able to lift the motor straight off the shaft.  I don't think that is good.  I will check the other side to see if the set screws are missing as well.

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2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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I don’t recall if they are stainless steel or plain steel, but if you have a telescoping magnet retriever tool, try fishing around down in that deep recess where all things disappear. You might just recover them.

This might help. …https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6781-how-to-service-your-rear-electric-jacks/

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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John,

I couldn't find any of the set screws at the bottom.  I went to ACE Hardware and got new set screws.  Thank goodness for ACE.  They seem to have everything.  I put them into the motor housing.  The one screw next to the water heater was a tough one to get in.  I ran the stabilizing jack and it works perfectly now.  

Missing all three set screws seems a bit suspicious to me.  Those screws are set deep into the motor assembly.  I could imagine them becoming loose, but for all three to be missing and not able to find any of them makes me wonder if they were ever there.  Oh well mischief, managed.

I did spray the toggle switch with the silicon spray and it helped quite a bit.  The action is much improved but I think a second application may be necessary.

Thank you so much for your help John.  I can't tell you how valuable your guidance is here on this forum.  I will follow up with Oliver.  

Thanks so much!

Carl

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2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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33 minutes ago, Carl Hansen said:

Missing all three set screws seems a bit suspicious to me.  Those screws are set deep into the motor assembly.  I could imagine them becoming loose, but for all three to be missing and not able to find any of them makes me wonder if they were ever there.  Oh well mischief, managed.

Carl

I discovered that both of my rear jacks were missing two of their three set screws. No wonder my jacks would no longer lift the side of the trailer! 

I replaced them and now the jacks will lift the full weight of the trailer again. 


Those rear jacks are made special for Oliver by Barker. There is a side plate welded to the outer tube for mounting purposes and there is no control head. I think the screws will eventually loosen and fall out. I know that’s what happened in my case. I’ve had the jacks in and out too many times for rebuilding and I think I would have noticed them being missing. 
 

 

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher and Rocky plus our beloved Storm, Maggie and Lucy (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

             801469912_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-I.jpg.26814499292ab76ee55b889b69ad3ef0.jpg1226003278_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-H.jpg.dc46129cb4967a7fd2531b16699e9e45.jpg

 

 

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John,

Well, it was a good thing that you had me check the mounting bolts.  3 of the 4 internal bolts were loose and needed to be tightened.  1 of the 2 external bolts (underneath) also needed tightening.  I only have 7K miles on the trailer.  I guess I am going to have to add checking these bolts and screws on a more regular basis.  I'm so glad this was a relatively easy fix.  I will update the factory and cancel the ticket.

Thanks again for all of your help and experience.

Carl

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2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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31 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:

I discovered that both of my rear jacks were missing two of their three set screws. No wonder my jacks would no longer lift the side of the trailer! 

I wonder how many other missing or loose screws and bolts are out there.  It seems to be a potential issue.

2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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1 minute ago, Carl Hansen said:

I wonder how many other missing or loose screws and bolts are out there.  It seems to be a potential issue.

I always describe pulling a trailer as moving a 6.0 earthquake through a Cat 1 hurricane. Screws and nuts will loosen over time. You could spend days trying to check them all. Usually I just fix things if they break, hopefully ending up with a better fix than original.

There is one item I encourage everyone to check now. IF you trailer has an additional electrical port (for a generator hookup) you will have a transfer switch located underneath the left dinette seat. Unplug the trailer from power, take the top off the transfer switch box and check every screw in the terminal block. If a screw becomes loose, the resistance in that wire goes up and the result will be, at the least, a cooked wire and terminal block. Or it will catch fire a burn the trailer (and possibly any occupants) up. I repaired this problem on a trailer at the rally and it was very nearly at the point of combustion. 
 

 

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher and Rocky plus our beloved Storm, Maggie and Lucy (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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1 hour ago, Carl Hansen said:

I wonder how many other missing or loose screws and bolts are out there.

They aren’t really out there, they’re just rolling around in the belly of the beast.  For example, I lost a 5’ section of PEX pipe that I had stored near the water pump for emergencies.  I know it’s down there someplace and maybe it will show up in the future.

Mossey

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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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My 2019 Elite II the switches are on the front of the trailer under the LP cover, my biggest grip is they are upside-down, that is you push the switch on the top to go down and on the bottom to go up. One of these days I'm going to reverse the wires, or the switches, which ever will be the easiest way to do it. I also tighten my jacks till there smug and then bump the switch just a little to give it a stable feeling, no need to jack the wheels off the ground as some think is needed for stability. 

trainman

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Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears.

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5 minutes ago, Trainman said:

My 2019 Elite II the switches are on the front of the trailer under the LP cover, my biggest grip is they are upside-down, that is you push the switch on the top to go down and on the bottom to go up. One of these days I'm going to reverse the wires, or the switches, which ever will be the easiest way to do it. I also tighten my jacks till there smug and then bump the switch just a little to give it a stable feeling, no need to jack the wheels off the ground as some think is needed for stability. 

trainman

No need to reverse the switches.....   Just think differently.   When you want the ass end of the trailer to go up.... push the switch UP.   When you want the trailer to go down.. push the switch DOWN.  Easy peasy.  

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Gregg & Donna Scott and Piper the Westie  -    The Flying Sea Turtle - Hull # 145     Western NC


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We had a problem with the curbside jack, recently,  in our 2008.

It would come up, but not down. Operating the manual alternative  is a pita, to say the least. Tear up the bed, the handle only goes about 90 degrees, you get the picture.

Since it would work one direction,  we hesitated to tear out the switch, which we suspected to be the culprit, and have it work then in  no directions. I contacted service, and @JWalmsley with his great memory, directed me to a replacement switch on Amazon. 

5 minute replacement.  Full operation.  Thanks, Jason! You are the best, even for 15th season trailers.1109814632_Screenshot_20220610-171522_AmazonShopping.thumb.jpg.4758be53087f09fd28caf557e6b4c267.jpg

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

 

 

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On our third trip after pick up in the summer of 2016 one of my back jacks would not come down.  I was pretty green and called ScubaRX (I think he was dining with Tally at a restaurant) and he quickly explained how to use the manual wrench on the jack under the bed.  It worked, the jack was not engaging the gear.  From that time on I have never run the jacks up until they do the click-click-click.  I stop before that point on all three jacks.  On the back jacks I have some white pin stripe tape (Amazon) at the point where I want to stop.  If raising by myself I do have to stop and look a couple of times.  If Carol is helping she tells me when to stop.  We’ve never had an issue since. 

Before we left this morning I checked the bolts on all my jacks and everything was nice and tight.  Mike 

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Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

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16 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We had a problem with the curbside jack, recently,  in our 2008.

It would come up, but not down. Operating the manual alternative  is a pita, to say the least. Tear up the bed, the handle only goes about 90 degrees, you get the picture.

So this happens with the gearbox installed? It seems like a very major design flaw. I had to modify my handle so it would function with the gearbox removed, but the tool does work fine with it in place. Maybe you could figure out an alternative setup, the part that fits over the jack gearbox needs a 1/2” square female drive. It could be made by buying a pair of cheap Harbor Freight extensions and welding the female ends together. Use a regular 1/2 drive ratchet handle to operate it.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6811-how-to-lengthen-your-emergency-jack-handle-so-it-will-fit-the-rear-jacks-with-the-gearbox-removed/

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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6 hours ago, John E Davies said:

So this happens with the gearbox installed? It seems like a very major design flaw. I had to modify my handle so it would function with the gearbox removed, but the tool does work fine with it in place. Maybe you could figure out an alternative setup, the part that fits over the jack gearbox needs a 1/2” square female drive. It could be made by buying a pair of cheap Harbor Freight extensions and welding the female ends together. Use a regular 1/2 drive ratchet handle to operate it.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6811-how-to-lengthen-your-emergency-jack-handle-so-it-will-fit-the-rear-jacks-with-the-gearbox-removed/

John Davies

Spokane WA

I just bought a spare switch to carry, instead. I've fortunately only had to operate any of the jacks manually a few times over the years, and it's slow, but doable, even with my upper body/ arm strength. I like the ratchet idea a lot, though. More like a bi-directional winch on our sailboat.

Every time for us, it was a fuse or a switch causing the issue. And, one time a bad ground, on a friend's front jack that we helped repair.

 

 

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

 

 

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On 6/8/2022 at 10:54 PM, ScubaRx said:

There is one item I encourage everyone to check now. IF you trailer has an additional electrical port (for a generator hookup) you will have a transfer switch located underneath the left dinette seat. Unplug the trailer from power, take the top off the transfer switch box and check every screw in the terminal block. If a screw becomes loose, the resistance in that wire goes up and the result will be, at the least, a cooked wire and terminal block. Or it will catch fire a burn the trailer (and possibly any occupants) up. I repaired this problem on a trailer at the rally and it was very nearly at the point of combustion. 
 

We concur.

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Chris & Duke Chadwell
🐾Maddie & Baxter🐾
Elite II Hull 292
2022 F-250 Lariat 7.3 Godzilla 4x4 Lakeland,FL
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Were there any warning signs like no electrical connection to the gennie, or a nasty burnt plastic smell? That is a scary pic. Does Oliver Service know about this issue? Thanks.

John Davies
Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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I do have the optional electrical port for a generator.  In my 2021 Elite I, I seem to have a different wiring configuration and buss.  I do have two boxes under the front dinet, one with the circuit breakers and the other one is for the plugin fuses.  I checked all my electrical connections.    All of my connections were tight and secure so I think that I am OK.

Carl

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2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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I just checked the three mounting bolts on my front jack and they were all loose.  Glad I caught them now.

BTW... what tool do you guys use to track the maintenance on your Oliver?

2021 Legacy Elite I | "Lil' Tow" | Hull #924

Tow Vehicle: 2020 Jeep Gladiator

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