Stabilize Oliver II suggestions.

[Katjo]

1 hour ago, Corvus said:

I place a scissors jack and some blocks of wood under the steps. Hand tight enough to keep the steps from dropping with weight, no jacking. This helps reduce the rocking a lot when someone is using the steps.

 

That’s a great idea! Thank you

[Hokieman]

19 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

There's  a device that can help you get truly  level, Bluetooth.  I'll see if I can find the thread. It's

LevelMate "For trailer leveling, I use the LevelMate Pro by LogicBlue. I purchased it and had Oliver install it for me on delivery day in the closet because I was not confident that the attaching screws would be too long and pierce the visible side of the fiberglass. This system works like a charm, and I have verified its accuracy using a 4' level.“

I use a Levelmate Pro also.   I was worried about the screws inside the closet so I used vhb tape.  Occasionally I check with bubble level, it’s still stuck in place.  

[Katjo]

6 minutes ago, Hokieman said:

LevelMate

I use a Levelmate Pro also.   I was worried about the screws inside the closet so I used vhb tape.  Occasionally I check with bubble level, it’s still stuck in place.  

We are level. We check with a bubble level as well. It’s the stabilization we are having trouble with. 

[Hokieman]

4 minutes ago, Katjo said:

We are level. We check with a bubble level as well. It’s the stabilization we are having trouble with. 

I understand.  I was just responding to Seadawg’s comment about a Bluetooth device.   

[Katjo]

2 minutes ago, Hokieman said:

I understand.  I was just responding to Seadawg’s comment about a Bluetooth device.   

Oh, sorry! My WiFi is spotty here at camp so I can’t read all the comments.😬

[Hokieman]

20 hours ago, Townesw said:

These Camco jack stands will stop the wobble. Just snug them up, don’t try to support the weight of the trailer.

I use these also, not always, but when I know I’m going to stay a few days and the TV is disconnected.  I place them under the forward Jack points, snug them up.  I use a square chunk of rubber on the top of each so as not to scratch up the frame.   This mitigates the rocking when someone goes up and down the stairs.  I store them in the storage basket on the front. 

[ScottyGS]

I want the rocking when someone comes up the stairs.      Look over and if the wife is in her bunk.... Grab the shotgun.   

[rich.dev]

On 9/7/2022 at 11:33 AM, Katjo said:

I think we are going to try these triangle Jack stands.

@KatjoDid the triangle jacks make a difference? If yes which ones did you get?

[ScubaRx]

On 9/6/2022 at 5:21 PM, Katjo said:

Thank you. We really don’t want to add another “something” to carry. Those triangle jacks are what we were thinking that help. It might be something I just have to get use too.😏

If you'll run those jacks down and take the weight off the suspension as other's have suggested, that side to side wobble will virtually disappear. Always put a block of some kind under the jack rather than running it all the way to the ground. One day you will forget to raise one and drive away. If it is not sitting on top of something that will turn over as you pull out, you will find yourself with a jack that now has a bent lower tube that will not go up. Hope you've got a hack saw with you because at that point, it's your only remedy. Oh, and that'll cost you $400+ to replace. Trust Me.

[MAX Burner]

On 9/7/2022 at 12:12 PM, Hokieman said:

I use a Levelmate Pro also.   I was worried about the screws inside the closet so I used vhb tape.  Occasionally I check with bubble level, it’s still stuck in place.  

We installed our LevelMatePRO yesterday using 1/4" stainless screws and small washers.  We had originally used velcro to mount the LMP thinking that it would make battery changes easier - NO JOY.  The velcro wouldn't hold it in position and we got erroneous data on the app.  Double-sided tape might be another solution - but that would likely be messy after a few battery change outs.

It's still in the same position just below the closet door bulkhead near the main hatch for easy access to the on/off slider switch.

 

The jury's still out on the functionality of the unit - but we're leaving today for a long weekend trip away from this triple-digit heat, so we'll report back after a few days of testing it.

"Ravel'n-On!"

Cheers...

 

[SeaDawg]

15 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

If you'll run those jacks down and take the weight off the suspension as other's have suggested, that side to side wobble will virtually disappear. Always put a block of some kind under the jack rather than running it all the way to the ground. One day you will forget to raise one and drive away. If it is not sitting on top of something that will turn over as you pull out, you will find yourself with a jack that now has a bent lower tube that will not go up. Hope you've got a hack saw with you because at that point, it's your only remedy. Oh, and that'll cost you $400+ to replace. Trust Me.

A very excellent recommendation. 

Not only will the blocks help with jack travel, and accidental drive-off, but if you're ever in a situation where a jack fails, it's so much easier to wind it up manually if the jack is less extended.  Plus, the pad or 2 x 6 chunk spreads the load, under the jack.

[jd1923]

We purchased the LevelMatePRO+ as a suggestion from @Ollie-Haus on a Black Friday post in our General Discussion forum (thank you Ollie!). We bought ours at the Black Friday price, about $110 total, taxed and shipped. Get the + model, as it can be hardwired via micro-USB, battery removed. 

It scared me seeing pics of this device screwed into the Oliver fiberglass, or even taped in position viewable in the living area. These devices do not need to be mounted in eyes view. I mounted ours under the rear dinette seat, where ample 12VDC connections can be made (see pic). Ours is screwed into the PD5100 Automatic Transfer Switch. Two 1/8" holes in this plastic housing vs. drilling into fiberglass seemed like a good idea.

The installation instructions are wrong. They state to hardwire to 12VDC to cut the USB cable and to wire the white to +12V and the black to ground. This is wrong as the RED wire is +12VDC standard on all USB cables.

Anyway, it's wired correctly now, and the final step would be for me to level the trailer to calibrate. Otherwise, it works well enough as-is since it was mounted pretty close to level.

[jd1923]

Every time I work an install, I see stuff that's not right! OTT makes a GREAT double clamshell hull and then they just become another RV company.

I worked as a professional auto accessory installer, back in the 70s-80s when cars came with AM radios and not much else. This work paid for college, and I must have installed over 100 car stereos, 60 auto alarms, 30 cruise controls, gas tanks, moonroofs and more. Management told us repeatedly to NEVER use 3M Scotchloks, that ALL connections must be spliced and crimped! Scotchloks are prone to failure, as they only just cut the insulation and touch the wire. 3M Scotchlok Electrical IDC 560B-BOX, Double Run or Tap, Flame Retardant, Blue, 18-16 AWG (solid/stranded), 14 AWG stranded (Pack of 25) - Fastener - Amazon.com

This is all I found under the dinette, connecting the 12V USB connections under the dinette, and the CO monitor (I believe that's the unit under the seat) and 3M Scotchloks are used to connect the water pump too.

Look at the 4" square cutout for this panel! We are ALL so worried about drilling into the fiberglass. This device ONLY needs 12VDC connections. A 1/4" hole would suffice and they cut a 4" square hole! OMG, which actually made their install harder as you can see the mounting screws just made contact.

The double-white wire is power to the LevelMatePRO+ that I installed with crimp parts and taped. I rewired the CO monitor and USB ports that I found disconnected. Not pretty, but all fixed now and should be more reliable. I did tie up the wires after the picture.

Hoping y'all with hull numbers >1000 have better installations.
We bought an old hull, and I can only fix so much. 🙃

[ScubaRx]

Chris, there was a time that the CO/LP monitors required a hole to be cut because they were using a panel mount model. This one looks like the monitor was replaced with a different model when the original reached EOL. I agree with you about the Scotch-Lok connectors. My Hull #050 was full of them I've replaced most of them with Wago connectors.

[topgun2]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Every time I work an install, I see stuff that's not right! OTT makes a GREAT double clamshell hull and then they just become another RV company.

Things have changed - a bunch - since your Ollie and my Ollie were built.

At the time these were built Oliver was doing much more custom work as the units came down the assembly line.  NO wiring harness was used on any of them and as a result the electrician that worked on any particular unit wasn't necessarily the same one that worked on the next unit.  Not too long after ours (perhaps around hull #200?) it was decided to have ALL Ollies wired the same.  This not only standardized the wiring but made it better too and made it simpler, easier and more efficient to install.  In turn, this actually saved Oliver money and was better for the ultimate owner too.  A win-win!

Bill

Edited December 16, 2023 by topgun2
spelling

[Mike and Carol]

11 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Every time I work an install, I see stuff that's not right! OTT makes a GREAT double clamshell hull and then they just become another RV company.
We bought an old hull, and I can only fix so much. 🙃

 

One of the advantages of having a vintage model!

[rich.dev]

Thought I would revive this threat. Has anyone added Lippert Jt's strong arm jack stabilizers to your Oliver? I read/seen some great reviews about how stable they are. 
 

 

 

[Steph and Dud B]

3 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Has anyone added Lippert Jt's strong arm jack stabilizers to your Oliver?

Not sure how you'd attach them to the jacks and frame.

[rich.dev]

43 minutes ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Not sure how you'd attach them to the jacks and frame

Yah I have no idea, mine is in storage, will look into it next week.