Smart Plug Conversion?

[Gliddenwoods]

I had the opportunity to review my neighbors new Airstream recently. Of interest is the Smart Plug connection and cord. It appears the Smart Plug provides a improved secure connection. I found that conversion kits exist for purchase.

Has anyone completed the conversion to a Smart Plug? Advice? Post conversion regret?

[ScubaRx]

I assume you are speaking of this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Plug-B30ASSYPB-Non-Metallic-Connector/dp/B0194H9T92/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=305027195902&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1020828&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=935590151030099993&hvtargid=kwd-384981510441&hydadcr=10101_10948922&keywords=rv+smart+plug&qid=1690758187&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

Amazon's Description:

• Eliminates Overheating - Increased pin and clip surface area greatly improves electrical conductivity during high amperage demand
• Weather Resistant Seals - Multi-fin silicone gaskets installed in the inlet cover and the plug body eliminates moisture penetration
• Quick and Easy Installation - Inlet mounting flange holes match twist-type holes for an installation that is typically finished in 30 minutes
• The SmartPlug Combo Kit includes both a 30 Amp 125 Volt inlet connector and a retro-fit connector. The retro-fit connector is designed to be used with your existing cord. This package offers superior performance and ease of use. The inlets are available in stainless steel and three non-metallic colors, (White, Gray or Black), of high performance/flame resistant material. Increased pin and clip surface area greatly improves electrical conductivity during high amperage demand. No twist required, the unique plug body shape and push-in design mean it only goes in the right way every time - even in the dark! Side clips and inlet cover lock the plug body securely into the inlet which eliminates any stress on the electrical components by the movement of the power cord. Multi-fin silicone gaskets installed in the inlet cover and the plug body eliminates moisture penetration. Inlet mounting flange holes match twist-type holes for an installation that is typically finished in 30 minutes.

There may well be some advantages with the Smart Plug, but I'm not too sure that I can see $150 worth of difference in this and what comes installed on the Oliver.

[Eric.]

Hi 

 

if we buy an Oliver, the smart plug will be one of the first mods I do to the trailer. I have used the twist style plastic connection on previous trailers and the smart plug is superior. 
 

I have also asked our salesman Josh to have it installed from the factory and they would not entertain the idea. So far Oliver does not seem very responsive for a $100k trailer 

 

Eric 

[ScubaRx]

6 hours ago, Eric. said:

Hi

if we buy an Oliver, the smart plug will be one of the first mods I do to the trailer. I have used the twist style plastic connection on previous trailers and the smart plug is superior.

I have also asked our salesman Josh to have it installed from the factory and they would not entertain the idea. So far Oliver does not seem very responsive for a $100k trailer

Eric 

Oliver will not make any substitutions or modifications during the construction phase. They probably would be willing to make the swap in service before delivery. If you have the ability to do it yourself, you should.

[Steph and Dud B]

Wondering how this is better than the standard twist-lock. Reviewers talk about standard cords with melted connectors or arc damage on standard cords. Melted connectors are usually caused by operating large draws like the A/C with low campground voltage (a problem addressed by the Progressive EMS), or by loose connections. The standard twist-lock should provide ample connection surfaces if it is used correctly (twisted to the locked position). As far as arc damage, that will happen to any connector that is disconnected under load. The pedestal breaker should be opened before disconnecting the cord. The same would be true with the Smart Plug.

With a special plug like this, you'd have trouble sourcing a quick replacement if something happened to it, while standard cords are available at every RV shop and replacement plugs/receptacles at any Home Depot. And what is "The retro-fit connector...designed to be used with your existing cord"? If it's an adapter that goes on the end of your regular cord, you still have a twist-lock in the system.

I'd need a lot more convincing before purchasing.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

13 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

I assume you are speaking of this one...

<snip>

There may well be some advantages with the Smart Plug, but I'm not too sure that I can see $150 worth of difference in this and what comes installed on the Oliver.

I have never had an issue with the twist lock style plugs.   For me, it’s a solution in search of a problem.

[Gliddenwoods]

Continuing with my product research; meanwhile thanks all for the thoughts and input. I do believe the product is superior to the twist lock type however Steph's comment on "quick replacement" is worth pondering.

A $150 investment on a high value trailer is not a concern if the product provides more protection for  the high value trailer.

Again, thanks all.

[ScubaRx]

The worst problems I’ve seen while assisting other owners with electrical problems has always been loose connections. The fact that this setup requires you to cut the molded female plug off your existing power cable and replace it with the smart plug indicates to me there will be some screws involved in the attachment of the new connector. To me, herein lies the potential for future issues. Every melted wire I’ve ever seen has been due to a loose or frayed screw connection. If the system included molded plugs on a 40 foot cord, I’d like it a lot better. Of course, then it would cost $300.