Touch-Light Shades

[Fritz]

It's a minor issue, but sitting at the dinette or lying in bed we found the touch lights can be glaringly bright.  I discovered that a 4" PVC sewer-pipe connector has a flange that is the ideal diameter for slipping over the touch light to create a light shade.  To create a shade I cut off the flange from a connector using the band saw.  This is the cut end that slips over the light... 

This is the finished end that becomes the bottom of the shade:

The shade slips over the light and stays in place with a friction fit, but a bit of 3M double stick tape provides insurance: 

Dinette touch light, without shade: 

Dinette light, with shade:

Galley lights, with shades:

Shade installation does not appear to have any effect on light operation--they still turn on and off by touch.

I suppose that the flanges could be cut with a hand saw (hack saw, coping saw?), which would likely require some additional filing and sanding.  Also, the shades could be painted white, but for now we've stuck with plain black.  

[topgun2]

I do not have "touch lights" but I really do like both the idea and execution of these shades.  Nice thinking and doing! 👌

Bill

[Rivernerd]

2 hours ago, Fritz said:

a 4" PVC sewer-pipe connector has a flange that is the ideal diameter for slipping over the touch light to create a light shade.

Lest folks get confused when they go looking for "4" PVC,"  what you used is ABS.  In the plumbing world, ABS is black, PVC is white.  So, to replicate your clever mod, folks should buy a 4" ABS connector.

 

2 hours ago, Fritz said:

Also, the shades could be painted white, but for now we've stuck with plain black.  

The same fitting might be available in PVC, which would come in white.  Lots easier than painting.

The fitting you used in PVC might be this 4" PVC Sewer and Drain Adapter:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PVC-4-in-x-4-in-dia-PVC-Adapter-Fitting/3455246?user=shopping&feed=yes&srsltid=AfmBOoqiQKecE5I94QDhmh3FLnYQEu_e183jcC9ZSiT_t9vAn5YMpw4bqvE

If I were trying to implement this mod, I would buy one of those, see if it fits, then return it if it doesn't, and buy more if it does.

[Fritz]

5 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

Lest folks get confused when they go looking for "4" PVC,"  what you used is ABS.  In the plumbing world, ABS is black, PVC is white.  So, to replicate your clever mod, folks should buy a 4" ABS connector.

Thanks for the correction.

I used a couple fittings that I had sitting around from a project I did 20 years ago. And I just checked the Home Depot website—these fittings have become expensive!  So, if you have to go buy fittings to cut up for shades you will hopefully find a cheaper alternative to the ABS fittings that I used. 

[jd1923]

Nice simple mod, good idea and crafty install. I cannot stand light hitting my eyes at the wrong angle too. We don't have the touch lights either, but if the size is right, that doesn't matter. Painting is not such a good idea. Get ABS if you want black and PVC for white. Adding this to my list!

[jd1923]

Measured the lights in our Oliver today and they are 3 1/8" diameter (the older version, not touch-lights). These 4" adapters should be 4" ID so lots of room, was hoping they would fit closer. There are 12 interior lights (not counting 3 bathroom lights). 

[Fritz]

Thanks. Newer trailers (at least our 2021 trailer) have five touch lights. The 4” pipe flanges form a tight friction fit around these touch lights. I did not try the concept with other lights (such as those on the ceiling or in the cabinets).  Other sizes of pipe or associated fittings might work well for your lights. Good luck!

[Patriot]

On 11/3/2023 at 3:01 PM, Fritz said:

It's a minor issue, but sitting at the dinette or lying in bed we found the touch lights can be glaringly bright.  I discovered that a 4" PVC sewer-pipe connector has a flange that is the ideal diameter for slipping over the touch light to create a light shade.  To create a shade I cut off the flange from a connector using the band saw.  This is the cut end that slips over the light... 

This is the finished end that becomes the bottom of the shade:

The shade slips over the light and stays in place with a friction fit, but a bit of 3M double stick tape provides insurance: 

Dinette touch light, without shade: 

Dinette light, with shade:

Galley lights, with shades:

Shade installation does not appear to have any effect on light operation--they still turn on and off by touch.

I suppose that the flanges could be cut with a hand saw (hack saw, coping saw?), which would likely require some additional filing and sanding.  Also, the shades could be painted white, but for now we've stuck with plain black.  

The only challenge I see with the shade installation is when you need to replace the touch lights (and you will) you are likely going to have to remove the shade and re-tape and reinstall. Other than that it looks like a nice mod. I would go with white PVC. 👍🏻

[Fritz]

Actually, I did have to replace a touch light for which I had installed a shade. I sprayed a little bit of rubbing alcohol around the base of the shade where it was stuck to the fiberglass, wiggled it a bit, and the shade came right off. I replaced the touch light, and reinstalled the shade.

[jd1923]

On 11/3/2023 at 2:33 PM, Rivernerd said:

The same fitting might be available in PVC, which would come in white.  Lots easier than painting.

The fitting you used in PVC might be this 4" PVC Sewer and Drain Adapter:

I've had this mod down at the bottom of my Oliver to-do list, and it's hard to imagine, but I'm down to the bottom! 🤣 We have the older glass LED lights that are 3 1/8"dia. The glare from the cabin lights is BRIGHT! And I certainly agree white PVC is the way to go, not black ABS for us and not something painted, extra work and would not age well.

Long search looking at all the 3-4" PVC parts at Lowes and Depot and I found these 4" drain covers (see pic). With a 3 1/2" hole saw I cut the center out of one (not easy to keep the drill centered, use patience with the drill clutch on). It looks to be a good fit and these were only $3.60 ea at The Home Depot. They are 1 3/4" deep (off the ceiling).

If you look at what @Fritz did above, he used VHB tape to mount his. I'm mounting at least 6 for Cabin and Dinette lights or a total of 12 to do all cabin lights. Getting 2-sided tape all around the perimeter of so many light shades would be a pain and if you don't seal the full perimeter light will come through the cracks. I wish 3M made a 1/4" round bead of VHB, but working flat tape around a perimeter is not fun. After cutting these parts, there is an 1/2" flat along the perimeter, a very good surface for sealing. 

I'm looking for suggestions for a proper sealant. It should bond to PVC to fiberglass, but not permanently! Something that could be removed with a solvent if necessary, and something that would not damage fiberglass. I know I don't want a silicone-based product (wish silicone caulk was never used on our fiberglass). Besides sealants that come in caulk tubes, or brush on, are there any thin bead sealants packaged like butyl tape? Would some brand of butyl hold these light shades? Any ideas? Thank you.