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Wanted to chime in on the black tank valve cable installed from the factory (2022). Mine was being hard to open and close all the way so I pulled the valve, did a thorough cleaning and reinstalled it. It didn't improve, so I pulled the cable out of the sheath and found a small kink in the cable about midway between the valve and the pull handle. I'm not sure if it was from impact during construction or from being pushed in too hard. I ordered a new cable and looked at the instructions and found out the cable must be straight at both ends for at least 6". It is also required to be secured every 2' O.C. for the entire run. The cable from the factory doesn't meet either criteria. My guess is if the cable was properly installed at the factory it would operate the way it should. Has anyone "properly" installed a replacement cable? Results? Black Tank Blade Valve Cable Installation Instructions.pdf

Here's just a little insight into what likely happened in David's situation and how to reduce the chances of others experiencing the same situation in the future. After examining this filter plug more closely, I have determined that the part that broke out of David's filter is designed as an over pressure protection for the water heater. By code all water heaters are required to have a high pressure relief. For the Truma, instead of a standard pressure relief valve, they have chosen to use a sacrificial relief that's designed to let an over-pressure situation release and drain to the outside. With David's description of the event, I'm convinced that when the water supply valve at the water heater was opened to run through the water heater, a high pressure surge hit the water heater causing the "safety device" to rupture. This was very likely a high water pressure situation, possibly caused by and air pocket in the water line just before the valve that caused a water hammer effect in the heater when the valve was opened. Now I can't prove this is what actually happened, but in liquid and steam systems I have worked with over the years, coils such as that in the Truma water heater are usually protected by what is called a rupture disc, designed to fail before damage can occur to the more valuable parts of the system. Whenever opening a valve to pressurize a system, it's imperative to open the valve very slowly so as not to cause a hydraulic hammering of the system when doing so. Also it's very important to run a system clear of any air pockets before opening a valve to other components in the system. For air and gas systems this is not an issue. But with hydraulic systems it's critical. A very good precautionary step to reduce the chances of water hammer when opening a valve is to very slowly open the valve to prevent a surge. One additional precautionary step to take before repressurizing the water heater is to open one of the faucets to hot water to allow flow through that side of the system when the valve to the is being opened to the water heater. Again this allows flow through the water heater, allowing air pockets to escape without cause a water hammer condition. These steps should prevent this from occurring to anyone in the future. Hope this helps anyone with concerns about their Truma water heater. PS - Obviously a high water pressure from the utility source connected to the trailer could also cause this situation to happen. This is the obvious reason why we must always use a pressure regulator and never setting it above 40 psi. PPS - If you purchased the Truma anti-freeze plug when you bought your Oliver, it can be used in place of the regular filter plug should you need a short term backup. It works exactly the same as the standard filter plug, just has a heat coil built into it. You don't need to plug the coil in for this use purpose.

AMEN! Best suggestion of the week! ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Bill: Best installation approach I have seen. Very creative way to intall the fan on a curved roof. Thanks for your time and effort to create a bathroom fan replacement "Best Procedure" yet. GJ

JD: Great post. Seriously like, and am considering at least the front light install. I would prefer not to have unplug when removing the cover. I have a"glam cam" thru the hull for my DC to DC cables, and the under sink portal hatch. Combined they appear to provide an access pathway. For reference, the belly band is well below the sink cabinet top. What do you think about using the light switch circuit of the jack to provide power to the front light location. Tap the load side of the jack light switch, add fuse and run power under the doghouse area to a cable glam, then inside up into the under sink, and thru the hull to mount just above the belly band? Would it worth the extra effort and possible to do? Thanks GJ

I have a couple of speakers that have given up. Will check power and resistance, but suspect they are blown and need to be reuplaced. Are these the ones you used? Thanks, GJ

That creek that is basically on your right as you take the drive up to Saint Elmo is full of hungry trout. Bill

That’s great news! I hope your issues are resolved soon!

@DunnYet Open source - No, you should not leave the Truma winterization (bypass) filter or standard stainless steel filter installed all season long. [1] If you are actively using your RV during the camping season, you should be using the standard stainless steel filter (or the Truma Electric Antifreeze Kit if actively in use). The official winterization plug/filter is strictly designed to replace the standard filter for winter storage and is not meant to be run full-time. Keep these quick winterization rules in mind: For Winter Storage: Drain your Truma system and remove the filter cartridge entirely. Store the filter in a dry place inside your RV and leave the yellow Easy Drain Lever closed. Leaving any filter inside during freezing weather can trap water, expand, and permanently damage the unit. [1, 2, 3] For Active Winter Camping: If you plan to travel in freezing temperatures, you can use the Truma Electric Antifreeze Kit. This specific kit can be installed in place of your standard filter to keep the water heater from freezing without draining your propane. [1, 2] For Normal Summer Use: Remove the winterization plug and reinstall your standard stainless steel mesh filter before de-winterizing and turning your water system on for regular use.

No worries, thanks yeah I did get clued into that trick. Worked great, the suspension quieted right down. Still a little creaky, suspecting the leaves are rubbing or maybe there’s a bit of grease missing somewhere. I noticed on the Alcan page they smartly put poly rub pads on the end of the leaves to avoid this. Well we’ll be in the neighborhood this summertime (roughly) so I set up an appointment to get fitted at Alcan. Full hog five leaf, who am I to argue with them? And I was thinking about when camping we’re going over weight anyhow with all the tanks and people in it. Plus I generally agree with having some extra margin and IIRC Alcan believes 20% is the right amount so OK.

Thanks for sharing David, I just purchased a backup on Ebay for $25. If anyone needs a replacement or spare and can’t find one on the cheap, they are available on Amazon as well. https://a.co/d/00C38npm

Oliver's response has been outstanding. We are working together to address the issue. More to follow when I have a chance to provide a detailed update. Bob

Just replaced the Blum slide on our nightstand drawer. This item is the OEM part replacement. Maybe I should have bought the 6-pack, LOL! The nightstand drawer and 5 kitchen drawers all use the 18" length, the short drawer uses the 12" Blum slide. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G7LQ3PQ4/?th=1 Lately, the drawer would open during travel so I suspected something was wrong. After removing the drawer (squeeze two orange levers underneath), I found the old slide was truly worn out. When fully extended the end would drop a couple inches. Not good! The new slide is in and now again it works great. But per the subject of this thread, OTT installed these slides with only three screws per slide! 😒 The slides are rated to carry 100 LBS, but three short #6 screws are certainly NOT! A couple year backs, working on a kitchen sink leak, I doubled all the screws on the kitchen drawers and went up one size. At the time, I forgot to do the nightstand drawer. The slides all wobbled a bit when unloaded with only 3 screws and I now contend it was the lazy installation that allowed this drawer to shake and eventually wear out the slides. These slides are substantial but need to be installed properly! BTW, Blum supplies 20 wood screws in these kits! 20 screws for 2 slides and 2 brackets not used for our application. I installed 8 screws on each slide! Why not? Blum certainly intends more than 3 should be used! I put 3 in the same holes to hold each slide in place and then drilled small pilot holes and screwed in 5 more (see pic)! Now this should last my lifetime. 😎 I suggest removing all your Oliver drawers, having at least 6 mounting screws per slide, 12 per drawer minimum.

San Isabel National Forest , Cascade Campground near Buena Vista Colorado Gonna hit the nearby hiking trails, Ghost Town of Saint Elmo, Hot Springs Got the hang of the Ford 10 speed on mountain passes tow haul mode only , select M , 2nd gear off the top

Thanks a million for invite ! That is so kind of you ! we plan to stay in the Colorado High Country for most of the summer one of Therese days we will visit you in Prescott

Thanks very much @Patriot for this. It makes me wonder - I generally leave the “heater” filter in all the time regardless of season. Should I pull it for the “off season” and only put it in during the cold camping months? I only switch to the standard filter when running the decalcification cycle. Am I doing this wrong?

Thanks I will keep an eye on mine!

Wired and tested the iRV62 today. Very easy to wire to Oliver wiring with AM/FM, DVD, and CD player working great with original Jensen TV and Jensen speakers! Great choice!

Roger, thanks for the flowers... OH with small washers too! GJ

Try unloading the fitting and likely you will get it to take grease. Sorry for speed reading this 36 page thread if you already tried this. GJ

Part number of OEM Filter is AquaGo Replacement Filter # 77000-00251

This morning while doing a full systems ‘go’ inspection on Hull #634 XPLOR, I discovered when I configured the Truma water heater valve to the ON position, an impressive stream of water shot directly out of the Truma filter exterior housing. After a little troubleshooting, I removed the filter and discovered that inside the filter housing, a small black round piece of plastic had blown out of the filter housing. This rendered the filter useless. We have had 5.5 years of trouble-free service from our tankless Truma and this was a first. We like our Aqua Go. I am posting this in the event anyone should have the same issue with their Truma filter. I have the optional antifreeze filter which works in a pinch as a back up. If you do not have the optional antifreeze filter as a back up, you will be stuck like Chuck with no hot water. In order for the Aqua Go to work, it has to have the filter element. I contacted Oliver Service and ordered a OEM replacement and an extra back filter up of the exact one you see in the below pics. “Two is one and one is none.” 🫡🇺🇸 Replacement filters are $95.00 plus shipping. Thank you Mike Sharpe for getting my new filters shipped out. The tiny piece of plastic that broke loose. Here is the filter that failed. You should not be able to look through your filter. The arrow points to where this tiny piece blew out. There is no way to repair it. I pass this on, so that if you have this issue you can just replace the filter with a new one.

Tim, Oliver has gone to a newer Awning style window which opens at 90 degrees. It’s insulated and glass. I don’t have any additional info right now. I feel sure Oliver Service could provide you with more details. Cheers, Patriot

Keep working with the folks at Oliver. It sounds like they understand where you are coming from and, in my experience, they will do everything that they can to get you to where you want to be. If for any reason this situation doesn't seem to be progressing towards your desired end, I would not hesitate to get Jason Essary involved. And, if that doesn't work then I'd write a note to Scott Oliver telling him (respectfully) the situation and request his help in getting your Ollie the way you want it. Be sure to let us know how this situation is resolved for you. Bill

Not powering up is NOT the same thing as it taking too many watts overloading an inverter! Given it "does not come on" (at all), it's simply not wired to a circuit supplied by the inverter. If an appliance wired to the inverter pulls too much amperage, your inverter will start making noise and will shut down when overloaded, but it certainly will "come on." What were they thinking at OTT! And BTW, a 2000W inverter by definition will run an 1800W appliance! Given the True Induction cooktop is rated at 1800W, and it's a 2-burner cooktop, then each burner is rated at 900W. If OTT had wired the cooktop properly, you could certainly heat up water for coffee on one (1) burner and run the fridge at the same time! You will be well under 2000W! 🤣 Get OTT to wire this properly! I would just DIY, as I suggested in an earlier post, but you have to be concerned of warranty issues. We have the LP cooktop of course, but like Bill mentioned also have an induction cooktop that we plug in indoors or out. We also do not use our LP stove stove to heat coffee water (unless battery SOC is LOW). We love these products! 😎 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Aigostar-Eve-Electric-Cordless-Boiling/dp/B07D3R7RZT/ https://www.amazon.com/Melitta-Pour-Over-Coffee-Stainless-Filters/dp/B0CSQLHFW9/

I'm sure Oliver will resolve this cook-top issue, under warranty. We're like Mike & Carol, our propane cook-top has been very reliable. We use a portable 120V induction cook-top, too.