Leaderboard

I was thinking there was a quick reference made at one point for care and maintenance, but not 100% if it has been updated according the model/year. I'll double check and have the team put something together. We are working on an entire "how-to" video series that will include everything covered at delivery, plus frequently asked questions. We will try to have these done within the month. We have shot several videos, but have not had time to cut/edit them. We will be adding them to our Youtube channel as we complete them. The team is also working on a new "ticketing" system for service/warranty issues so we can track any issues our customers may have. It will allow owners to submit issues, view the status and allow our management team a better understanding of manpower needs. Our forum here is a great tool to learn from our customers and make our trailers better, but we don't always have a lot of time to read through all the posts. The ticketing system will be just a better way of handling our service/warranty needs of our customer with quicker response times. We hope to get the ticketing system live within the next few weeks. Included in the ticketing system will be a knowledge base of frequently asked questions & answers that we can build upon as "service & support" tickets are completed. Hope everyone has a great weekend!

Meriweather Lewis is also our favorite cg near hohenwald. The price is great ( free), but most of the time, we're the only or one of few in the cg. Admittedly, we are usually in the area in early spring or late fall... The sites are decent sized, the cg is lovely, especially in fall when the leaves are changing. Who needs hookups? Not Ollie owners. After that, I'm partial to fall hollow. Close to town, and the trail, and Neal and Shari are so very nice. And, Neal is an awesome cook. I rarely eat breakfast, but his breakfast is just so good. We've only spent one rainy night at 1000 trails, so not fair to comment. I'm not much for RV parks. Too many nice state park cg in an hour's drive. Sherry

Here is a video to help show you how to winterize your Oliver Travel Trailer. Note there are two valve configurations depending on the year model that can be seen at the 27 sec and 35 sec time frames in the video. Hope this helps!

Matt, thanks for the update. I didn't comment on my service issues because I'm convinced the shortcomings are the result of growing pains, not a lack of commitment to servicing customers. I'm very encouraged by your comments/report. Oliver Travel Trailers is a great company, has great employees, builds outstanding campers and now appears to be on track to manage the extraordinary growth it's experiencing. Please pass along my appreciation to everyone involved and keep the members of the forum informed of how this process evolves. Don

My trailer is haul #216 and I did the suggested test by not hooking up the trailer and plugging the 7-way plug into my TV and I went from 12.6 to 13.5 in about 10 minutes having the truck idling. . If I understand correctly my TV is charing my batteries using this method. I've been following this thread and thanks folks for sharing the info. George

I have found places to stay one or two days away by looking at a map. I have seen some wonderful sunsets (and spectacular sunrises)from a hidden cove found by a chart. None of these were obvious electronically. Natchez Trace CG, isn't that where we had the Rally? The electrical pedestal didn't have a 30 amp outlet? I have never packed a 30/50 adapter. How much of an issue is that elsewhere? I know at the Rally most sites were real small and on top of each other. Most needed extension cords and extra hoses. We just had to assume the new management had not got to update that part yet. We really liked the Merriweather Lewis Park, but there are no hookups. But that is why we have the OTT anyway. (Price is right too...free).

We still like having a DeLorme book of maps (Now owned by Garmin). We can find places to camp or interesting places to visit that do not show up on road signs or electronic devices. Maybe it is an old throwback. We love the plotter on the boat, but still don't venture out without a good chart.

We went to a big box lumber place (Lowe's maybe?) And bought this piece. It is designed to fit on the top of a rolling Husky tool box. It slides over the sink easily. We left ours snug where it goes over the faucet, this keeps it from "drifting" while we travel. It stayed snug when a drawer didn't. We trimmed the length a little, used a hole saw in the drill, and made two cuts. Simple, works well, adds usable counter space, and hides dirty dishes.

If you missed last night's harvest moon, take heart. It's quite beautiful tonight, as well. http://www.space.com/38381-space-station-crosses-moon-face-photo.html

Nice! Simple but effective. Mike

What they said...you don't have to change any valves. If the water tank is full, and the valves are changed, the pressure switch on the pump may just not know to come on. We assumed you did that connecting to city water. Now try just shutting off the city water at the pedestal (you should not have to disconnect). Turn on the pump switch and see what happens. Don't forget there are two switches. One on the control panel to the right of the cabin switches, the other on the front of the vanity. Hopefully a simple fix. Enjoy camping as the leaves are turning rapidly here...

I know this is a simple check, but I just checked our LE1 and you may want to verify that the water pump switch - located in the aft upper cabinet among about 6 other switches, is in the on position. Cheers,

I watched it rise over Donner Summit tonight :)

We saw it rise out of the sea. Magnificent. It is so bright tonight that it's light blocks out all the stars except those near the horizon...

More hazy here tonight, but lovely.

Totally agree. I still love to have a paper map/ chart, and don't leave home/dock without them. Electronics always seem to malfunction at the worst possible time. As long as you keep the paper dry, a map/ chart works. And, it's not too old for changed conditions, new highways, etc.... Sherry

John, It's a very simple test. Unplug from shore power and note the voltage. Back the TV up close to the trailer, but don't connect the hitch. Plug in the umbilical and start the tow vehicle engine. Look at the trailer volt meter and see if it begins to climb. If it is charging you are good to go. If not, find the negative buss under the rear dinette seat and see if it has a white ground wire attached. There should also be a white ground wire going from the buss to the frame grounding lug which is only about 7 inches away and can be a bit hard to locate. If you have no obvious negative wire connected from the buss to the umbilical, see if you can find the end of the umbilical under the front dinette seat and locate the white wire in that cable. That is the one that should go to the negative buss. You can also make a temporary fix by connecting another white wire inside the male plug and routing it to a connection on the frame, maybe a hitch bolt, for instance. Then, if it still doesn't charge, connect a wire from the frame lug to the buss under the rear seat. Mine was easy (#92) as I had access to the umbilical and was able to extend the white ground wire to the bus, but Reed's (#200) was more difficult and we had to make a temporary fix from the plug to the frame. Once connected and charging, the voltage should slowly climb to 14 volts on the meter. Then back on the internal charger while plugged to shore, the voltage should drop to 13.2. Completely disconnected from the TV and shore, the voltage should drop to 12.6 or lower with loads. Let us know what you find.

Yep...

Alison, in your severe climate a carport or enclosed garage would be really so much better. I can’t really comment beyond that about outside options, because Mouse resides inside my attached insulated RV bay. Having to continuously clear lots of snow and ice off the roof throughout the winter, without damaging the panels and antennas, was the main reason I decided on inside storage when we had our new house built a year ago, and I have no regrets whatsoever. Spokane gets 40 inches of snow on average, plus or minus 20... in the dead of winter I can go out into the Hanger Deck and lounge around inside the trailer, do maintenance or mods, show it to a potential buyer, or use it for guest housing. How neat is that? Plus fully enclosed RV storage around here is $300 to $550 monthly. Ouch. John Davies Spokane WA

I've seen some other people asking about the refrigerator and I just went through that section in the owners manual and pulled out a bunch of sections and pasted them into 1 sheet that everyone should know. This is my 3rd Dometic and they are great refrigerators but they do have some places that we need to watch. First is the upper door latch, they can break and Little House Customs has plenty of extra and spare parts. I've copied part of their page here- "From LHC" FRIDGE HINGE REPAIR/DAMAGE PREVENTION KIT All too often we hear of the top hinge breaking on the 17" Dometic fridges. This is bad news when it happens because that top hinge is part of that quite expensive door! This stainless steel bracket is easy to install and will repair that broken hinge permanently or prevent it from happening on one that's not yet broken! The very thin profile is nearly invisible when installed. This is a must have for all 17' refrigerators. FRIDGE SPILL CONTAINMENT TRAY Okay, so if you’ve ever spilled milk in the bottom of your fridge, you know you want this and don’t need to read any further. If you haven’t, you still need it but are welcome to read on. This tray is sized to fit the very bottom of all 17” fridges. At 260.15625 cubic inches, it will handily contain an entire gallon of spilled milk while stealing almost zero space in the fridge. You did remember that there are 231 cubic inches in a gallon, right? OK, maybe not but I did... trust me. FRIDGE BUTTON GUARD Who hasn’t bumped the fridge control, switched to DC and run their battery down? This new version is made for us by Charlie Young. It's clear, fits the fridge well and doesn't require removal to operate the buttons. It attaches with clear VHB tape to the control panel. [end of LHC web page additions] Back to the story - The first thing we did with our last trailer was to call and make an appointment at LHC to have them put the additions on that we wanted. We had Larry put the "Damage Prevention Kit" on along with the "Fridge Button guard" and it really gave us a good piece of mind because we do take off through the woods with trailer in tow and park in some amazing places. Bumping the buttons will become a regular thing without the guard installed and I highly recommend it. The new metal door hinge replaces the plastic one that comes with the fridge and will save the door from needing to be replaced if the stock hinge does break. I added the containment tray to this article because I don't remember Karen having on in our fridge :) The only problem that we had with the fridge was caused by me not knowing the voltage limits of the control panel. Even though you're running on gas and thinking that as long as the battery is putting out, it will be ok, this fridge does have it's minimum voltage of 9.6VDC. It will work a few times if your lucky and your batteries drop below that, but if you continue thinking that it will keep it up... Unfortunately that won't happen. With our Casita, we only had one Battery and it worked pretty good most of the time with the one battery. Usually over night it would drop from a full charge of 13.8VDC down to usually 11VDC overnight and this is acceptable. But then I started getting cocky and kept taking it lower and eventually found out that her CPAP machine would run fine down to 9.5VDC before it's low battery cut off would kick in... You can see where I'm going here - because the fridge was on gas, I really wasn't worried about it. So one night when we were parked boondocking I noticed that the trailer hadn't charged back up while we were driving and found that I had not plugged it in all the way because a small piece of gravel had been knocked into the 7-pin connector. So we were now going to be starting off the night at only 11.5VDC even after running the generator. The CPAP kicked off and woke up Karen,and the voltage had dropped to 8.7VDC and that's when our refrigerator problem started. I could hear the pilot igniter probe clicking on and off, trying to relight the fridge but it wasn't working at all on propane but it worked fine on AC or DC... ANd that's what we used to get home along with our cool box that we keep in the back of the car. An old friend of mine up here is a Mobile RV mechanic, so I gave him a call and he came right over. Then after pulling it apart and looking things over, he found that the main relay on the board wouldn't pull in, so the propane wasn't getting the signal to start. So I ordered the new board and that was that. The Moral of the story here is - Know the fridges limitations... In the attachment, I've pulled out the basics and then some from the Dometic Owners Manual. It would be best for everyone to read the entire manual and then use this page if needed as a reference, but either way, if you read this, you will have a real good understanding of your Dometic Refrigerator. Reed Lukens Copy it, Paste it and Save it to your Oliver Maintenance Files :)