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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/23/2020 in all areas

  1. It's in the way but as far as I'm concerned the slide doesn't need to close unless the door is open. I like the solid grip on the handle but this is why there are so many flavors of ice cream. There is seldom one right answer. 😀 I have to add that I have been on many forums covering everything from aquariums to Jeeps to sports and have never seen such a friendly place as this one, keep up the good attitude.
    3 points
  2. So let me see if I've got this right - we've determined that a 1/2 ton truck would tow an Ollie fine, but a ¾ ton would tow even better. Just want to make sure that this thread ends with the same conclusion as the 50 others before it. 😉
    3 points
  3. Except about talking Fords and Dodges.😳😉
    2 points
  4. I noticed those holes in the handle and they measure 3.5" center to center. You can get drawer pulls from a hardware store that fit that measurement. I got an Amerock BP86726D Brass Wire Pulls 3-1/2 in . You need to get 1/2" long bolts or cut down the ones that came with it. I also had to cut a Philips head bit to get behind the handle or you could take the handle apart. Be sure to double check your hole measurement, it may not be the same.
    2 points
  5. The metal plate is a good idea to protect the door, but on the other hand, thats not a bad failure point if you’re going to have one, since it possibly absorbed most of the impact. That is, I could still camp with the damage in the photo, but if strengthening that point just moved the damage to the hinges or even the hull, then you might end up with trip-ending, or at least more costly, damage.
    1 point
  6. However, we are an opiniated group. All well meaning and if I must say so - an extremely good looking "rafter" of Oliver owners. I see one of the pic's of the door latch has a metal inside door handle, mine is plastic, do you know if the metal one will mate up with the OEM latch. As for the damage, the idea to repair with a large SS plate to spread out the load is a great idea - one that can be done pre damage. I'll put this on my growing list.
    1 point
  7. I’ve removed the fan blade assembly a dozen times or so for cleaning. I remove and clean the screen even more frequently. A couple of years ago a flock of beetles took up residence between the screen and the fan. I thought that if I turned on the fan at a low speed it might suck them out. WRONG! It was a mess... beetle guts everywhere. When we got home I removed the entire assembly from the trailer. I completely disassembled the fan, cleaned everything, put it back together, climbed back up on top of the trailer and reinstalled it. What I didn’t do was lube anything. I’ll do that this weekend before we go down to the coast next week (Rockport TX).
    1 point
  8. The model that Oliver sells and installs is a WiFi Ranger. I just looked at the Oliver optional upgrades web page, and it is the same model, but they now describe it on their web page as "WiFi Booster." When I bought my trailer their web page called it "WiFi Ranger," which is the brand name.
    1 point
  9. Oliver's booster is the WiFi Ranger.
    1 point
  10. We all love talking about trucks so we’ll just let these threads go. In a couple of months someone else will ask again and we can all jump in. The more miles (50K+) I put in towing my Ollie the more I move to the bigger is better group. I almost went with a 2500 this time, but alas, I had have a Rebel....
    1 point
  11. Try not to get your undies in too much of a bunch this morning, John, it's just a joke.
    1 point
  12. Well, maybe some moderator could make a sticky forum or Towing FAQ so that this stuff would be more easily accessible to raw newbies. OTH, Some of us like to chat, even if it has been said before. So never mind.... we will keep leading them by the hand until they get it all figured out...🙂 John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  13. Listen to what these folks are telling you about the 3/4 ton pickups. I started towing our Elite 2 with a 1/2 ton Chevrolet gas burner using the Andersen. It was okay but I was only 20 pounds under my max GVWR and a 400 mile day on the road would wear us out. You can make all the weights work out on paper but you can’t get a feeling for how that loaded vehicle is going to ride or perform under the conditions you will experience on the road. I traded up to a 3/4 ton Chevrolet 2500HD with a Duramax Diesel. No worries about exceeding the GVWR and it it pulls and stops the Elite 2 great. Very comfortable ride. My wife enjoys driving it. No need for the Andersen. Uphill, downhill, dry or wet, hot or cold, accelerating onto the Interstate, rough roads, dips or humps at bridges, strong cross or headwinds in wide open areas, pressure waves created by passing semis, avoiding animals in the road, whatever, much better experience. And after a 400 mile day I don’t feel like crap while I’m setting up for the night. But on second thought, go ahead and start out with a 1/2 ton. That way when you do trade up it will make you appreciate the 3/4 ton that much more.
    1 point
  14. There are advantages and disadvantages for all the available choices. As for the diesel Duramax GMC - my experience - Cons- higher initial cost, higher operating costs ( diesel and oil/fuel filter changes) , and for some more difficult - harder - to park/maneuver. Pro's - much better towing fuel mileage (15-16), decent unloaded fuel mileage (20+ hwy, 15 in town) absolutely superior towing and long haul comfort, no need for WDH, and generally a better vehicle for heavy duty use. I loved my previously well used 1/2 ton GMC truck - and would have used it to as a TV for the Oliver - but the long trips were just not what I wanted. And the payload would not handle what I took along with the Oliver EII. The 2500 was just better. I sadly sold the older GMC to a happy new owner. To each his own - we all have valid opines here- well almost... 😉
    1 point
  15. I use a single housing from HomeD, and put a combo filter into it. I made a fold up stand to hold it. Though in thinking about it I am not sure if has to be upright. It does keep it cleaner. We also use a short SS braided washing machine hose to hook to the Oliver. It may not be needed, but it looks good. I was thinking that all campgrounds usually have regulated and inspected water sources and delivery systems. But the filter was a backup safety device. On the other hand, what about boondocking? We do sanitize the holding tank when needed, and at wakeup. The question is is where do we get the water to fill the holding tank? Does everyone use the filter when filling that tank? If you pull up to a distant spout do you bother to hook up the filter? What about when you fill from a bucket or container? Would/does the pump have enough power to suck through the filter (or two) from a bucket?
    1 point
  16. MY input, buy whatever brand - size that fits your needs - but please make sure the payload of the vehicle you are considering meets your needs. Just because the towing ratings are in the ballpark, doesn't mean the payload is sufficient. AS for me - I do not consider any 1/2 ton truck sufficient to tow a fully loaded EII. Not because they can't, or aren't capable, but because I've towed a good deal with them and a 3/4 ton truck. I'll take a diesel powered 2500 any day given a choice, and a bigger pocket book. Good fortune, RB
    1 point
  17. We use the Clearsource for our Oliver. My reason for spending a bit more is that I wanted the actual stand which is powder coated non rusting. It fits in the front part of the storage area perfectly laying flat, leaving room on top for another bin, electrical cords etc. I put quick connects on the Filter, and use a short 2' hose to connect it to the trailer, and it can actually be tucked up under the trailer while camping. Pix Below: In the basement area I have the Clearsource, a (6 Gal) and (4 Gal) milk carton for storage and 1 gal bucket and flush hose. (I removed the filters from the stand in this picture below so you could see through to the back of the storage area.) As Mossemi says above, It's entirely possible to make the same filter out of components you buy from Home Depot or Lowes as mentioned above. To make that filter, you should have the flow go first through a sediment filter then into a finer carbon block filter which removes order and tastes (like a Brita.) In any case...this is what we have and hope it helps you see how it might be useful in your travels.
    1 point
  18. Don’t make me start posting glamour shots of the Raptor. 🧐
    0 points
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