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Thanks to all for the input. Just double checked the dimensions of the slide out battery tray on our Oliver and neither of the BattleBorn 270 amp-hour batteries will fit in the existing battery tray. Just a bit too long. And I don’t want to get into changing or modifying the battery tray. Looks like 2 of the 100 amp-hour BattleBorn batteries will be the way to go, and still give us plenty of capacity.

I originally installed 2 Battleborn 100’s, which worked great. Two or three of these 100’s fit nicely in the tray. Last year someone posted about a blemish sale on the 100’s for $699, with full 10 year warranty. I called Battleborn to ask about it, and the guy said “Nobody ever complains to us about having too much power”. Good sales pitch, I bought it. That blemished battery sale came to me in perfect condition, no blemishes. So far 300 Ah has been overkill for our needs, we were doing just fine on 200Ah. We have solar, but no inverter, microwave, cell or WiFi boosters. I haven’t really measured it, but my guess is we use less than 50 Ah/day. If I were to do it over again, I’d probably go with the 270 Gamechanger. That would be more than enough power for us, maybe ~5 days with no sun. If you carry a generator, you can always charge up. The terminals use 5/16” SS bolts, fewer cables and connectors, a clean install. I like Battleborn because they are US made, excellent reputation, a good value, and 10 year warranty. If you ever need tech or customer service, they are a pleasure to deal with.

Making the switch to LifePO4 batteries can be stressful because of the initial cost and because they are so new. It was for me, I can't comment on the Battle Born battery you are looking at as I have no experience with them. I have always liked that they are made in the USA and they have come down in price considerably in the last two years. I don't know that the particular model you are looking at would be your best choice though. You would probably be just as pleased with two of the 100 ah Battle Born batteries as they are over $600 less expensive than the single 270 ah model and because they are the same size as your current batteries (Group 27), you know they will fit in your battery tray exactly like your current batteries. You will still have considerably more usable capacity than you currently have with your flooded batteries and they weigh about 20 lbs less than the single large 270 ah Battle Born. Also, if one battery ever fails while boondocking due to a bad BMS, you still have one good battery. Do you plan to do the conversion yourself? If so, then it may be easier as well to go with the two 100 ah Battle Born alternative (like Mike and Carol) and since the battery posts are in similar locations so you probably can use your existing cables. The larger Battle Born appears to have the posts at one end which may require lengthening or shortening your existing battery cables. I do note that the Battle Born batteries don't have typical battery posts so you will likely need to re-terminate your existing cables to work with the Battle Born batteries in any case. Minor in the scheme of things. I wanted the lithium option when I ordered my LE II but Oliver didn't offer it so I changed out my 4 flooded batteries for LifePO4 as soon as I got back from Hohenwald over two years ago. Being particularly cost conscious after paying for our Ollie, I went with 4 Lion Energy UT1300 105 ah batteries I bought through Costco (420 ah total for $2800). They are Group 24 size and took less than two hours to change out and the cables only required one minor modification. It should have taken less than an hour, but I had to run to NAPA and get a new battery post clamp as for some reason the Lion Energy batteries came with both posts sized as negative posts (in typical flooded batteries the positive post is slightly larger in diameter than the negative post). They may have fixed that by now. I have been using the Lion Energy batteries extensively for over two years now with no problems whatsoever (they do have an outstanding warranty). Costco only carries them a few times each year as a special event. They have an event going on now that expires tomorrow (Sept. 11). Steve

The Ivation 14.7 compressor model NCeagle linked to in his post was not available when I needed one ASAP. Here is my experience with the Ivation 13 Pint desiccant model. Although a desiccant type dehumidifier I've been using mine for up to four weeks continuously in Florida since January. The desiccant types produce more heat than the compressor types plus a significant chemical odor. The unit is only used when in storage so the amount of heat and chemical odor have not been an issue. The chemical odor has diminished but it is still noticeable. I set mine at 65% and the SensorPush placed at various locations shows it works well throughout the interior. I leave doors and drawers a jar to help. I also have a canary on the table (salt shaker) it has not caked yet. The trailer is closed all the time so the unit spends most of the time dormant or monitoring, which is a very nice feature. In monitor mode the fan will occasionally run and oscillate for a few minutes then start the dehumidifier if above the humidity level set. The unit will also restart then run the monitor routine after a power cycle. I didn't have time to route my water hose outside so I placed the unit in the bathroom and ran the supplied hose to the open drain in the shower pan. I was concerned about excessive moisture and stench escaping from the drain, but I was pressed for time. To my surprise, and great relief, that has not been the case, even during the hot summer months.

So true! We were back at the same part this weekend and had similar problems. I watched the voltage at two different sites wonder all over from 98 up to 130.VAC. I spoke with three other campers to ask if they were having issues, they said not really - just their breakers inside their RVs were tripping. I asked if they were using a surge protector. They said, "What's that?" Oh dear. In fact, one sweet young couple was out for their first trip from the showroom and besides not knowing about a surge protector, they didn't even know to have a water hose to fill up their water tanks. Anyway, I was able to capture screen shots of the Xantrex app showing the incoming grid voltage to show the the part rangers. Come to find out, the single transfer feeding the park (Sea Rim State Park, TX - right on the Gulf of Mexico), is on the ground and has been completely under water on several occasions. My hope is they get the local utility to get that pad transformer replaced asap given the damage it is likely causing to some of the ill informed campers. As for is more really better, I think we are going to rely on the Progressive alone. It's easier at the power pole, less to cart around and works fine. I think it was a was a waste of money for me to get the Southwire given what comes standard on Oliver's today!

Good question Mike, I have not heard of any problems related to keeping the charge wire connected. I called Battleborn during my install and asked that question. They said they had not heard of any problems either. I disconnected mine as a precaution, pending more information. There is a motto amongst some Engineers “In God We Trust, all others bring data” 😀 Attached are some quick notes I made for myself, as I quickly forget my own research. Disclaimer to All: I am NOT an electrical expert, so please forgive any technical errors. If you are a legitimate electrical expert, please enlighten us all with details.

I haven’t done anything to stop charging from my truck to the trailer. It’s been almost 2 years and a lot of miles since we replaced AGMs with lithiums. Has there been any reported issues actually happening or is this just a wise precaution? Mike

On Hull 218 that breaker was a $3 automotive self resetting breaker, located on the 12 volt DC bus under the street side bed. I think it would be very unwise to risk damage to your truck alternator. Either disconnect that wire (and cap it) or install a DC to DC charger and enjoy the extra “juice”. This unit gives 11 amps continuously, and requires no changes to the tow vehicle, unless you have a “smart” alternator, then you would have to run a small gauge “voltage sense” wire up to the truck battery, which turns the charger on and off. I did not have to do that for my 2013 Toyota. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5270-how-to-redarc-dc-to-dc-11-amp-output-trailer-charger-installation/ John Davies Spokane WA

We started with two BBs. They were plenty for how we camp. I did add a third just because….

The Ollie doesn't need a large dehumidifier for the small space, and I've found the Ivation brand to be the best for its size (small). A compressor type works best in warm humid climates and a desiccant type works best in cooler, humid climates. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, the desiccant would work well year round. If you live in Florida, the compressor would work best. If you live in North Carolina like I do, you may opt to have one of each and use the compressor most of the year and the desiccant in the cooler months. The drain hose is just some standard vinyl tubing. I think it's 1/2" and you can buy a roll of it at any hardware store and have as long a drain as you like. Ivation 14.7 Pint Compressor Dehumidifier - Small and Compact with Continuous Drain Hose for Smaller Spaces, Bathroom, Attic, Crawlspace and Closets - Ivation 13-Pint Small-Area Desiccant Dehumidifier Compact and Quiet - With Continuous Drain Hose for Smaller Spaces, Bathroom, Attic, Crawlspace and C

I don’t have experience with that particular battery but I did replace my four AGMs with three 100Ah Battle Borns. If you only do one or two nights without electricity 270Ah will be plenty. We generally go down to 90% overnight with our batteries. We do have solar, so we’re back up to 100% late morning with normal sun. The weight savings is significant. We are happy with our BB batteries. Mike

chairs quick dry towels mugs placemats folding tables entry rugs bath mats toothbrush holder tarps coolers silicone utensils pot holders grill picnic table cloth

I realize I might be an odd duck, but I can't say enough about this national monument. It's strange but I love it. There are about 50 campsites, first come first serve. No reservations. I pulled in today at 11:30 and had my pick of almost any site. Some too small for the Ollie but most are plenty big. There are nice flush toilets nearby and water faucets spaced throughout. Most sites aren't too close together.

The original PowerTron lead acid wet cell batteries on our Elite II have worked well for 4 years of camping now, and still take and hold a charge well, but I’m considering an upgrade. The 4 batteries in parallel give about 100 amp-hours of usable capacity (I never go below about a 60% level when discharging). We have no solar and no inverter. The batteries are used only for powering the 12 volt DC items such as lights, water pump, MaxxAir ceiling fan and bathroom exhaust fan, USB ports to charge phones, etc. (fridge on propane). I’m not looking to run the air conditioner or microwave from the batteries. We just need the basics when we do overnight Harvest Host/boondocking stops with no hookups on the way to our destination campgrounds. As a replacement for the old PowerTrons, I am considering upgrading to a Lithium battery, looking at the BattleBorn 270 amp-hour battery pictured below. Still not planning to add an inverter or solar. Just looking to gain some significant amp-hour capacity, eliminate the (minimal) maintenance of checking and adding water, and shed about 150 pounds of weight as well! Anyone have any experience with this particular BattleBorn? https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/battleborn-270ah-12v-lihtium-deep-cycle-8d-battery/

As I have stated before, chaining two surge protectors, one at either end of you power cord is not necessarily bad (although, I suspect there’s still a potential for gremlins) it is not without drawbacks. Mainly, there’s the expense and trouble of dealing with two. I think you’ve made a wise choice.

Camp side chat from Metamora, Mi.

John, you need to decide if you are going to keep a small heater going in winter, and at what temperature. You definitely don’t want to let it freeze inside the Ollie with a dehumidifier going, and the compressor types don’t operate at all in really low temps, they ice up. I think all these dehumidifiers release some waste heat during operation, but I doubt if that alone is enough to maintain inside temps. If you plan to winterize the water system and let the trailer stay at ambient temperature, you will need to empty the tank and shut off the dehumidifier for those below freezing times. John Davies Spokane WA

Watch this video: … FAQ: Can I charge my batteries using the alternator? l Battle Born Batteries https://battlebornbatteries.com/charging-lithium-batteries-the-basics/ I personally want the TRAILER to be idiot proof and to be completely independent of any big wires or special isolation devices on the TV. Otherwise, changing TVs, such as Frank’s backup Armada (including selling the Ollie to a new owner) might end catastrophically. If you are going to the trouble to add isolators and such to your TV, you might as well string great big 4AWG cables under the truck and through the trailer and use a great big DC to DC smart lithium charger located inside the trailer. IMHO. Those are the reasons I installed the Redarc. It is a stand alone solution (except as noted above for smart alternators). I also think that using the existing charge wire “as is” or major alterations to an in-warranty truck electrical system might result in a claim denial. Especially if they find out your trailer has lithium batteries, which they might ask….But that didn’t affect my decision at all. The fact that Oliver doesn’t leave that wire hooked up should serve as a big warning. How is your risk aversion level.? “Do you feel lucky punk?” Are you willing to risk an engine bay fire? John Davies Spokane WA

Camp side chat from Metamora, Mi.

Yes I did, I capped and sealed it. On hull #797, it was a resettable breaker just like on @John Davies. I sent Jason Essary an email, because I wasn’t sure where the wire was located. See the following….. Q: Is the 7 Pin tow connector plug charge wire connected to the batteries? If so, where exactly is that connection made? I've been advised that OTT disconnects the charge wire on the lithium solar options, but don't know that is a fact, or if it is also not connected on the standard solar packages. A: If you ordered the camper with AGM batteries then the charge wire is connected to the auto resettable breaker under the street side bed access panel. It is the breaker to the right of the Optifuse and has a red rubber cap. One connection should be a pink wire for the safety breakaway and the black wire should be the 7-pin charge wire. If you are installing lithium then we do recommend to disconnect the charge wire but they may be dependent on the lithium batteries you get. I have had one lithium battery manufacturer tell me that they were okay leaving it connected. In the photo attached, the breaker and terminal are shown as it came from the factory. The breaker you are looking for is the lower one in the photo. The upper one is the auto-reset breaker from the Zamp solar controller, which you won’t have. FWIW I have on my future mod list the Redarc DC-DC converter that JD reported on. So far I haven’t needed it, but I may some day.

@dewdev Hi, yes it is a Clam. It’s 11.5 x 11.5. It’s my favorite camping accessory! So easy to put up and take down!

AND we want the sewn-on logo in front to have a cloth backing, otherwise it itches like crazy and leaves weird patterns, aka a “third eye”. John Davies Spokane WA

In addition to series or parallel, you'll need to know the voltage of the Oliver panels and then be careful to match it to the portables. You're probably better off getting a second controller (or buying portables the include one). Explorist has a fantastic series about solar wiring and components. https://www.explorist.life/solar-charge-controller-calculator/

Dave and Kim Several reasons 1- The AC will drain your Lithium in an hour or so. 2- A 1000W generator would then take 4-5 hours to recharge your Lithium. 3- Your expensive Lithium will only take a few hundred charge/discharge cycles. I cannot think of many good reasons to run the AC on Lithium except for short exceptions and mostly to help start the AC and then run it from a Generator if the Oly can do that. Thats what I am trying to find out.

Mine is not quite 3 months old but I go with Meguiars — wash first and spritz with Quick Detailer. I’m a simple woman. Reminds me of the time (yes I veer off topic and it’s kinda my trademark) I went to a high-end spa for a massage and they talked me into getting a fancy facial. The “aesthetician” was amazed at my skin for my age. Asked me what my “skin care regimen” was. “What products are you using?” ”Uhhh. Oh. Irish Spring.” The look on her face. Like she’d stepped in something. But it did keep her from trying to sell me spa salon potions at $80 for like, an eighth of an ounce. She knew I was not a good “lead.” Heh.

I will add my voice to this and think it is a great marketing idea. From my years of marketing experience, I know this is expensive to setup and maintain. If we want quality products and Oliver to over see this business, we need to set our expectation for fairly high priced products. Cost to inventory different sizes and have staff process orders timely adds up. And there are Always ideas that don't sell.

I had a chance to try out the Ollie during our recent publicized heat wave last week. The first day I was boondocking the high was 118. Wow. While driving in the heat, I was very happy to see that all my tires did great, both on my truck and on the Ollie. Believe it or not, I haven't had any air loss in the tires since last summer when I picked it up. It sits most of the time but I have taken it out on a few trips. I've got about 3500 miles on it so far. Attached is a pic of my dash readout of the GMC TPMC system from my truck's dash. I wish I had a generator to run the AC for longer periods b/c it was sooooo hot. I've got the Lithium Pro which allows me to run the AC off the batteries, but I do it just for short periods, like 30 to 45 minutes. I'm careful b/c I don't want to run the batteries all the way down while boondocking without a generator. I've never camped with a generator but I'm thinking that at times like this it would be very nice. The solar panels, including my 100w portable panel plugged into the external Zamp port, did put juice back into the batteries but no so much that it was like plugging into shore power. They raised my SOC about 15% each day, but then I used that up in the evenings. I experimented with trying to cool down the interior during the middle part of the day. No shade. The first day I ran the AC to bring the interior temp down, then shut everything up and left for five hours. When I returned the interior was like an oven! 105 degrees. The next day I kept the bathroom window and the rear window opened a crack and put the fan on at 30 percent blowing out to draw air through the trailer, then left for 5 hours. When I got back it was again very hot inside, but maybe a few degrees cooler than the previous day. So much for that experiment. The Norcold fridge performed well. I had it up to 8 and the first day it was maybe too full, but it kept things cold enough. Not very cold, but cold enough not to spoil. The ice was still solid when I returned. I did rig up a little battery powered fan to blow hot air away from the exterior top fridge vent, which I think helped a bit. At night I kept the ceiling fan on blowing in (30 percent) and another battery powered fan to blow across the bed and I slept well. So, after testing out the Ollie in 100+ temps, I've decided that I need fridge fans (probably the Fridge Defend as discussed elsewhere on the forums) and also a generator to keep the AC on for longer periods. Also I didn't need to turn on the hot water heater because the fresh water tank warmed up to a cool but comfortable temp for showering.