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I changed our Oliver window seals from white to black a couple years ago. Here are the before and after photos. I haven’t had any streaking from the black seals.

Results After 2 Years Of Use: We have never had any problems at all with our composting toilet. This is mostly due to doing our homework by having read through the earlier parts of this forum and watching a few you tube videos. Helped us avoid problems others have suffered through. The only modification we've done is John's idea on drilling a few small holes in the bottom of the container holding the pee tank. Never had bugs of any sort. The fan housing unit has a fine screen where it feeds into the solid tank so no bugs can come from the vent pipe into the solids container. There is also a fine screen on the intake side. For good measure we add a half cup of diatnatious (sp?) earth to every load of coir. We don't add toilet paper to the solids container. Seemed like a gross option when we first started but has turned out to be an easy solution. We use the same round step lid garbage container suggested earlier in this thread. We line it using recycled plastic bags from grocery store - the type you put fruits and vegis in. Soiled paper and wipes take about 5 days to start to fill the bag and we've never had any smell at all. Weird but true. As previously discussed, the only smell associated with the toilet is a slight potting soil odor when changing the coir, even if the toilet has been recently used. We add a few ounces of vinegar to the pee bottle before using and there is never any smell from there either except while emptying a full container. Even then, it's surprisingly slight. To clean, we allow to soak for a few hours filled with water with 1-2 tablespoon of bleach. Our bottle is 2 years old, has had lots of use and looks practically new. To empty the solids bin, while on the road, we simply cover with a 13 gallon recycled garbage back, invert and ban the bottom a couple of times. If anything sticks, we use a paint stir stick to dislodge which, in turn, we wipe with alcohol and store in a zip lock. If at home, we dump the contents at the base of a bush and spread out with a rake. Plants seem to love it. While on the subject, we dump full bottles of pee around bushes as well and they really seem to benefit from it. We use coir as it is cheap and more environmentally friendly than peat moss. We travel with two 1 gallon zip locks of prepared material (the perfect amount to fill container to center line of stirring units) and an extra brick big enough for to make another batch. Soaking for an hour is all it takes to totally break a brick down to the right consistency. The video on the first page seems like an easy process. Our test for proper hydration is to squeeze a fist full of material in our hand. If it almost holds together, it's just right. Takes about two weeks of constant use by the two of us to be ready for changing. If not quite ready after a trip, we leave the fan on for about a week, then unplug and let it sit and continue to decompose. True for winter as well but, if around freezing or colder, the decomposition will pause till things heat up again. No smell at all even after the fan is turned off. We couldn't be happier with this system.

Thanks Katjo! I think I will open a ticket. I have cracked windows, and it helps with interior condensation, but not for the weird drip under the window that occurs in the morning. Damp Rids and a humidifier are a good idea. I will open the ticket tonight. Problem is, I’m skirted for winter . . . . Margaret

Sorry to hear about all of your issues. For the Colorado folks it would be helpful to know your location before recommending an RV tech. For your leaky windows, did you try putting some water on them with a hose since you’ve had no rain since cleaning the tracks? It sounds like a lot of condensation. We’ve not had any significant problem with condensation and we’ve camped all over to include many Colorado locations. Do you keep one or both of your ceiling vents open at night? Are you able to run an electric space heater? I’m surprised no RV techs have been able to locate your freshwater leak. Do you have the leak when using the water pump or just while on city water? With the system pressurized you should be able to look under the dinette seats to see if there is moisture that might indicate it is coming from the bathroom. Checking under the curbside bed (both access points) for moisture on the floor would tell if it is from all the plumbing on that side. A blue paper towel is your friend when doing checks. If there is no moisture on either side of the trailer then looking under the basement floor in the back would be the next area to check. That entails emptying the basement and lifting the floor to examine the water lines that run from the city water inlet on the back side of the trailer around the curbside, past the furnace and hot water to the water pump area. If you raise or lower the front of the trailer does it make a difference in the amount or location of water leaking from under the trailer? I just repaired a freshwater leak that I had. I checked all the hull access points and found no moisture. I disassembled the basement to find moisture, but the pex lines were dry. When I checked around the furnace and hot water heater I found a cracked plastic Pex T-joint coming out of the hot water tank down below the heating ducts that was dripping whenever the water system was pressurized. I had missed that when checking the back access hatch at the bed. When I stuck a blue paper towel down there I found the leak. I replaced it with a brass T-joint. If you have a serious propane leak I would have that looked at right away. You might be able to find a propane guy that would help. The guy we use for our home propane told me once he could help with any propane issues I might have with my trailer. Same with your electrical, I’m not an expert and would have a regular electrician or qualified RV tech troubleshoot. Is your trailer still under warranty? Have you opened trouble tickets with service? Once you do they will call to help.

I do have a composting toilet. Placed a 4" hole "eye brow" style (partially covered so water will not get not splash on, vent between bathroom alongside the toilet into the area below the front dinette seat. I've noticed problems with furnace drawing air in wrong direction thorough the toilet. Given the further mods I'll have to make to allow for wintertime water usage, I suspect there could be enough draw to cause that issue and, if so, I'll have to adjust accordingly

Hi y'all. We left Hohenwald today and drove to David Crockett State Park. It towed great behind our 2017 Ford Expedition EL with heavy duty tow package. There were some steep (to my surprise) sections and it pulled OK. We will be going over the Rockies so that will be a good test. So far, I am very pleased with Oliver.

When you say between the “two rear bunk beds” assume you are talking about the twin beds since bunk beds aren’t available in an Oliver. I also assume based on your description that the water collecting is on the floor inside the trailer and not between the hulls. What year is your trailer? Is it under warranty still? Have you opened a service ticket? The service team at Oliver can help troubleshoot if they are aware that you are having a problem. Folks here on the forum can also help troubleshoot but we need a little more information. Start checking under the curbside bed and under the dinette to see if you can find any moisture. Does it happen if you are hooked up to city water or when you’re using the water pump? Any leakage outside of the trailer from the back? Keep us posted. Mike

Thank you, Mike and Carol, Ok, so first, are you suggesting running a hose against the window as a diagnostic test to find the window leak? What do you think about caulking underneath the window? I didn’t have any issues with condensation until the nights got really cold (think Winter). I was happy with the lack of condensation. However, when temps hit 20, as they regularly do after sunset, the fiberglass gets really cold, even on the inside. It may be that my inability to use the furnace contributes to that, but yes, I am running an electric heater. I still don’t know if the window leak is from condensation, or what it is. I am surmising it comes from dew or condensation outside, since the water is coming from outside. I think opening the vents is a good idea. As for the RV techs, I think they just aren’t doing what they’re supposed to be doing. I went to a fancy place in Denver, and they blamed the freshwater leak on me. They said I wasn’t keeping the camper level enough, and other such nonsense. They were condescending and dismissive (kind of like doctors sometimes are), so enough of that . . . . I think your suggestions for locating a leak are good. I’m pretty sure the leak only occurs when I’m using the pump and freshwater tank, not when I’m using city water and a hook up. I did have the propane leak looked at. The first guy , who is a friend with a Box truck conversion, used soapy water, and didn’t find anything. The second guy, who was an actual tech, found Mud Dauber’s nests in the furnace (likely from the camper’s original Texas home), so he supposedly cut off gas access to the furnace, and was going to order a new furnace, but said I could keep the propane on for cooking. However, after he left, both the propane monitor and my stand alone monitor started beeping like crazy, and the tanks emptied out. So now I’m not sure if I should continue using him or not. I will try electricians and propane companies. Those are good ideas. The trailer is no longer under warranty, but I could open a ticket with Oliver. I am not in a position, however, to take a lot of long drives, and my camper is skirted at present. I will edit my post , and add my location. Thanks again, Margaret

I've been very interested in and following posts talking about modifying the vents to improve heating / airflow - including a return vent in the bathroom as Oliver now does in the new units. Many owners have also added a return vent in the bathroom and all seem to like it. However, if you have a composting toilet I've learned that ANY airflow in the bathroom can easily overrun the little fan in the toilet and can potentially reverse the airflow from the toilet exhaust back into the main cabin. My greatest fear is that a return vent in the bathroom might be more than the little composting fan can handle and the toilet air would reverse and be sucked into the cabin when the heat / fan is running. Anyone with a composting toilet and a return vent in the bathroom have any data / comments on this? Thanks!

Four feet, 6 inches

I had done all that usual checking of the traps, etc. The issue actually turned out to be a broken & cracked toilet mounting flange (see photos) that allowed black water to leak under the toilet and drip down onto the top of the black tank and between the hulls, causing the odor issue. The crack grew progressively worse over time and eventually the source of the problem became very apparent as water leaking out of the under-hull scupper below the bathroom anytime the toilet was flushed. Oliver uses an all plastic toilet flange which is common in residential applications but seems prone to cracking with a heavy porcelain bowl toilet in a trailer bouncing down the road. Other owners have discovered this same problem (sometimes on a brand new trailer, seems the flange occasionally gets broken during installation of the toilet). I replaced it with a new toilet flange that has a stainless steel ring for holding the toilet mounting bolts. I also installed a new Dometic seal between the toilet and flange. Problem solved, odor gone (after some cleanup & disinfection between the hulls around the black tank). Thankfully we only ever use the toilet for #1. #2 is done at the campground restrooms or roadside rest stops. Made cleanup a lot less of an issue.

Paranoid? Not completely. We listed our home for sale about 7 months ago, east of Indianapolis. It sold in 3 days. The listing was on Zillow and immediately showed as pending sold. By the pictures on the listing on Zillow you could tell we had already moved out. Within two days after it showed pending, our neighbor was sitting on his front porch late at night just enjoying the nice weather and overheard a couple arguing in our driveway about whether they should go into the house since it was vacant. The neighbor informed me of the situation and needless to say I moved back into the house temporarily until the new owners took possession. I don't think you can ever be too cautious.

we have fun with this one... https://www.amazon.com/Black-Flag-Handheld-Bug-Zapper/dp/B0728KFVFD/ref=sr_1_47?crid=3RXLV58X8T1I0&keywords=electronic+fly+swatter+zapper+for+small+bugs&qid=1668882454&sprefix=%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-47

JD, Lucky You, GE has not updated many parts of western ND since late May of 2017. and we have new roads, streets and sub-divisions added since then. I have been trying for 2 years to get GE to update our flyover, and have not received any positive feedback. and I am truly envious of your "Mouse House". B Out,

Yes the big CLAM fits on a bed. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, we do have to put it diagonally when we put it in the truck bed. We have also put it inside the camper. Either way it fits with no problem.👍🏼

Thanks for all your input. Bill has built fiberglass airplanes in the past, and if it takes cutting holes in things he is perfectly capable.

A "heads up" for new owners (like us) who have the (more efficient) Victron charge controller instead of the older Zamp unit: the wall-mounted Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor is exactly that--a battery monitor, not a solar charge monitor. Since it is mounted in the same place as the old Zamp display, I presumed it reported solar charge data, like the Zamp did. It doesn't. For solar panel output data, you must download and consult the Victron Connect app, and tap on the icon for the Victron charge controller, not the Smart Battery Monitor. Then you can see not only current, but historical (last 30 days) solar charge data. This is a paradigm shift which confused me until I figured it out.

When it was time to place my order, I didn’t know anything about composting toilets. I watched a 20 minute YouTube video and then checked the block. I’ve had it for a year and love it. I don’t know how I ever lived before without it. It really is a must for living the unplugged life. I’ll never empty another black tank in my life.

Look! I didn't suffer all those long 25 years living in St. Louis for nuttin'. But, unfortunately - you are correct - I did mean I-44. 😵 p.s. Of course what is now I-64 used to be I-40 and the locals still call it that. However, I-40/I-64 really wasn't ever all that bad and is now still my favorite way to get through St. Louis when traveling from east to west and looking for I-70 west of St. Louis.

That drawing is fine, that is how the factory does it, but ONLY if you do not plan to use the black tank for either grey or fresh water storage. If you do NOT (edited) plan to do that, use the tank, you should also disconnect and cap off the black tank rinse port under the front dinette area. It is important to “idiot proof” mods so somebody who has a senior moment can’t flood the trailer or burst the tank, if it isn’t vented correctly. Overfilling the black tank (with the black vent pipe connected) will send the overflow water back down the grey tank vent pipe and will flood the bathroom through the shower drain hole. John Davies Spokane WAj

Hi there, My window is leaking quite a bit of water out of the bottom , under the metal strip. This happens every morning after a cold night, when the sun hits the window in the morning. Three of my windows have leaked when it rains, and I cleaned all the weep holes and tracks, but it has not rained since I cleaned the tracks, so I don’t know if rain is still an issue. This is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window. I am in a micro climate (high desert in CO) in which winter nights can be well below freezing (single digits or less at times), while days can be quite warm, and temps can rise into the 40s. The location is an arid high valley surrounded by very high mountains on all sides, so the mountains create a protective barrier. All of this creates a big difference between cold nights and warmer days. Every morning, my bed gets wet, not good when you have mold sensitivities. So this is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window, see pic. I tried cracking the window during the night, but this does not solve the problem. The Oliver windows are tricky, so I don’t know how to prevent the leak, because I have been told not to apply sealant (??) though my inclination would be to caulk the inside edge (?) What else can I do? Brief rant alert: I spent a big chunk of my savings when I bought this Oliver, but she has been a 🍋. 😭😭😭 The windows have leaked, there has been a leak between the hulls whenever I use fresh water, with water coming out of the clam shell openings in the bottom, and I have had a significant gas leak, and cannot use the furnace or stove at present. There is a problem with the electrical circuit, where fuses are blowing, and my newly replaced battery never shows an adequate charge. Now, the bathroom fan no longer works, and I am having issues with condensation when the fiberglass gets cold (in addition to window leaking). My Oliver isn’t that old, but I feel like I’m living in a leaky boat, unable to use many of the features. The RV techs have not found the source of the fresh water leak, and many of the techs here are busy, and keep bailing on me (combination weird pandemic after effects, and some wonky people in Colorado who tend to take advantage of “tourists.”). Rant over, let’s start with the windows? If any of you live in CO, do you know of any good mobile techs? I am in Buena Vista, CO. Sorry, I think photos uploaded upside down. Thanks, Margaret

Yes, we'll have a service panel in the new building but we just got news that our utility provider is requesting to DOUBLE their rate: "Eversource supply rates will double from 12.05 cents per kWh to 24.2 cents per kWh, resulting in an $84 per month increase for the average user." Solar would also help keep the trailer charged during power outages, which are becoming more frequent and longer here. A week ago we lost power for 14 hours after a very small storm.