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‘What if’ the local residents disapprove of your site selection!

Hi everyone. Our forum is a great place to gather and share information about our wonderful trailers. A few years ago (2018) the moderators put together their thoughts on how we should all "play together" here to foster the Oliver Owners family harmony. If you haven't seen these before, please acquaint yourselves with our Forum Guidelines. If you have seen them, consider taking a few minutes to refresh your memories. A family that plays well together is a happy family. Enjoy your trailer as you wander about this great nation! 1OLIVER FORUM GUIDELINES Welcome to the Oliver Forum, a great place for Oliver Travel Trailer owners and future owners to interact, share knowledge, solve problems, and most importantly, to develop friendships. Respectful and considerate responses help build this community. You’ll find a wealth of experiences here, and many owners willing to share their experiences. Have fun, but please keep others’ viewpoints in mind. Respectfully state your point, share your information, or ask your question. Keep it casual and friendly. Reread your post before you hit submit. Is it helpful? Thoughtful? Please try to stay on the original topic of the thread. Confusing the issue may cause the member’s original question to go unanswered. Start a new topic if you have a new question. It’s important for all members to have the environment and opportunity to contribute in a considerate manner, and to learn. Inflammatory and trolling comments shall be removed by a volunteer moderator. We encourage members to use the “REPORT” function (bottom right corner of each post) to help us, as we’re not reading every post, 24/7. If your post is removed, you’ll receive a PM about it. If there is a continuing problem, further action may be taken, up to and including your removal from the forum. Some inflammatory topics to avoid include religion and politics. We’re all about camping, and Oliver campers. 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The newer rearview cameras that are installed by Oliver have a built in "hood/cover" that helps protect the camera from sun and rain and (perhaps) some glare. However, those of us with the older cameras no such "protection" is built-in. So, after seeing another one of these cameras where the owner (sorry, I do not remember just who that was) fabricated a hood/cover, I thought that I would try to do the same for my camera. I had some reasonable flexible plastic sheeting laying around the workshop that had originally been used during the installation of a "ceiling" under part of our decks on the house. I believe that the product was called "Underdeck". Anyway, using a bandsaw I cut out a rough shape and then used a heat gun to soften the plastic sheet such that I could hand mold it into the basic shape I wanted. Next, I refined the rough shape again using the band saw and then started sanding until I was basically satisfied. A bit more molding of the cover using the heat gun - note that I actually used the camera as a base for this "final" molding but was careful to not let the camera get too/very hot for the obvious reasons. Then it was a bit of hand sanding - this is not really that difficult given that the plastic is fairly soft. Perhaps the "final" detail of the project was the most difficult - the placement of the holes that aliened the outside bracket with the plastic hood with the holes in the camera body. Note that the bolts that attach the bracket to the camera body are not very long and with the added material of the plastic hood being involved there is not much room for error on this step. Finally, when I was satisfied with how it looked I spray painted the underside of the hood with ultra-flat black paint so that glare/reflection would be reduced. Questions? Bill p.s. Note: In the pics below it really doesn't show, but, the top of the hood does not rest directly on the top of the camera. This allows any heat from the camera and/or the sun to be dissipated such that neither should be subjected to too much heat. l This is the hood that I copied. I reduced and shaped the edges of mine such that there would not be any interference by the hood with the camera angles out to each side. The above is the camera mounted prior to making the hood. TopTop Back Front

Yes to both. IMO the water pressure regulator is important as you never know what water pressure is going to be at a campground.

It has been at the same location for a number of years. It conflicts with our plans, most years. The Maine group started a regional rally that has been very well attended, and successful. The rally is a long distance for you. We formed little rallies, back in the day, in Florida an North Carolina. Maybe consider putting something out there?

We have the Truma Aquago water heater in our Hull #1291. I am impressed by its performance so far. That said, the $1K quote just to replace the plastic tank confirms my concern that Truma repairs are remarkably expensive. You can't buy parts, as all work must be done by an authorized Truma repair center. That is why I have determined that, should our Truma Aquago ever develop an issue that requires repair by a Truma service center, I will replace it with a RecPro or a Fogatti. Right now, the RecPro is $410: https://www.recpro.com/rv-tankless-water-heater-on-demand-hot-water-heater/ The Fogatti is $500: https://www.amazon.com/FOGATTI-Controller-InstaShower-Optimized-Performance/dp/B093Z6HQX4 Even if you need to hire a plumber to install a replacement tankless RV water heater, your total bill may not reach $1K. And, you will then have a brand new water heater. Going forward, I believe you can get parts for both the RecPro and the Fogatti, so anyone can do repairs.

With lithium, you need to change a Xantrex setting before trying to use a small generator. The Oliver's converter (charger) will try to draw more power than the small generator can produce. So, stick with the 3500W genny for now. Also, are these inverter-type generators? Industrial jobsite generators may not produce "clean" power. If the power is drifting in and out of spec, the Oliver's electrical management system may start rejecting/accepting that power. That could be the cause of the clicking. Are you getting error codes on the display in the attic? Next, is the 3500W inverter-type generator producing electricity when not connected to the trailer? Test it with any handy electrical device. If not, the generator's circuit breaker might have tripped. If the generator is producing power, look next to the connection between the trailer and genny. As @topgun2 mentioned, some generators (inc. Honda) require a grounding plug inserted into one the the genny 15A outlets before connecting to an Oliver. If the plug isn't present the EMS will cut the power and the display in the attic will show an error code. The clicking under the dinette might be the transfer switch if you have the optional shore line connector on the front right side of your hitch near the propane tanks. What happens if you plug into the optional front shore line connector instead of the one on the driver's side? When connected to the generator does your microwave have power?

We always use a pressure regulator. I carry the simple brass non-adjustable as a back up, but use an adjustable regulator. Why a backup? We were camped in AZ and the weather was only supposed to get down to the mid 30s so I left everything hooked up. When we got up it was 28 and my hose and regulator were frozen solid. The hose thawed out fine but the regulator was stuck at what it froze at. If we’re only going to be someplace 1 or 2 nights and I need to connect to city water I usually just use the big blue filter. If we’re staying a while, I use the Culligan filter and our water softener. BTW, some campgrounds require/recommend a pressure regulator due to high pressure water supply.

If you decide to organize a "regional" Rally then be sure to contact Rodney Lomax first. This can help with the organization and what must be done to "qualify" to be an "official" Oliver Regional Rally. However, a few years ago I happened to be at a campground called Baker's Hole located just north of West Yellowstone. Upon pulling in I noticed that there were two other Ollies in the campground. We all got together and had a pot luck dinner the next night and called ourselves a mini-rally. Moral of the story is that we share a common interest - don't be afraid to get together with each other and it really doesn't take a bunch of planning in order to do this. Bill

Yep, in 2016 the rally was at Thousand Trails campground in Hohenwald in September, the 2017 was also in Hohenwald in the spring. The rest, starting in 2018, have been at Lake Guntersville. The facilities are much better at Lake Guntersville, especially now that the rally is so large.

What if, you just enjoy the time?! Now wondering... re your Planet-of-the-Apes avatar... "What IF something... Happens?" What something concerns you? I have read this post now four times and I'm not seeing the question or concern. I've spent my life looking forward for the "what if's" and the more the better! Love the unexpected which is life! BTW, boondocking is far safer than living in the city, tent camping be damned! 🤣

I think I'd call the Lakeland truma center, and check on price. You could probably have a fun camping trip, and still be less. If not, I'd check with a local dealer on price to install a traditional 6 gallon (will require changing out the access door, as vents are different), or a different brand instantaneous, if you love it. I think the whole swap was about that price, when we went from a 6 gallon to the Girard instantaneous, though it was years ago. With most 6 gallons, you can run the heater on "free" campground electricity, if you're plugged in. I'm really sorry for your experience, so far. But, I'd encourage you to look into options for service and replacement. Every newbie makes mistakes. Don't be too hard on yourself. You'll not likely do it again.

I forgot a couple of pics of the material used: AND rough measurements - 4" front to back 1 3/4" top down to the sides 2 5/8" from the back to the apex of the curve at the front on the sides.

Good reading info! One item to make sure is that all other loads, such as water heater, A/C, microwave are OFF. This will allow you to adjust the charge setting to a level consistent with a max RUNNING (Not surge) amps of your generator. It would do that if your grounding plug (Technically a grounded neutral plug) is defective. If there are other RV's in the area, ask to momently borrow their Grounded neutral plug for a quick test. Geronimo John PS: The fancy one displayed above is nothing but a regular 120V plug with a jumper wire inside it from the ground wire terminal to the neutral terminal. Most of us buy a $5 plug and make our own.

2 days after picking up our 2022, Hull #1045, while camped at David Crockett State Park, we were plugged into shore power. I pulled up the phone app for Lithonics to check our batteries. They were down to 70%+/-. We were plugged into shore power at Oliver and at David Crockett. We confirmed there was shore power. Call Oliver and they had me check the inverter breaker located on the front wall, street side. It is right next to the actual inverter, which should be off. The breaker had tripped and there was no charging of the batteries. I reset the breaker and we were good. This happened twice more on another trip, and a new breaker was awaiting our arrival home. So with the breaker tripped, there was no charging of the batteries. Check your inverter breaker.

OK - the data link error should not have anything to do with the charging problem. This error code only means that the remote display is not communicating with the main EMS computer. I do not have a generator, but, I still suspect that the issue lies with the either the generator or the transfer switch. Try what Steph and Dud B are telling you. Bill p.s. thanks to Steph and Dud B for trying to help out!

I assume that you have the Oliver installed Electrical Management System/Surge Protector? If yes - what does the system's readout indicate? Do you have or need a grounding plug on your generator? What percentage are the batteries currently at? Bill

Yes, and yes. Water quality and pressure vary widely from campground to campground.

If anyone has this project in mind and wants to use the same material I used - send me a PM and I'll see if I have any "extra" laying around that I could bring to the Rally. Bill

I believe that Oliver does still provide a water pressure regulator at delivery (check with your Oliver Sales person about this). However, even if Oliver does still supply this - it is a fairly generic one and there are better ones available that allow you to set the pressure that you want to come into your Ollie (the generic ones are usually pre-set at 45 psi) plus they allow you to see what the pressure is at the source (like THIS ONE). I highly recommend getting or at least using the one from Oliver at all times. Water filters are another matter. If you only fill your fresh water tank from a known quality source and/or only use the city water inlet from that same source then you do not necessarily need to have a water filter. But, this is not the normal situation and a water filter can help protect you from getting all sorts of things into your Ollie water system. The "all sorts of things" will depend on where you get your water from. A couple of years ago I had to pump water into my fresh water tank directly from a stream. I was glad that I had a filter to keep any possible creepy crawlies out of the tank! In addition, there are those that couple a water softener with the filter. If you live and/or travel in hard water areas of the country this is something to consider too. Bill

I am not a historian but I believe the 2017 OTTO rally was the 1st at Lake Guntersville SP and all of the subsequent rallies have been there. There was at least one other OTTO rally before 2017. Mossey

Smart move. You can still get significant tax credits. We haven't had a power bill in nine years since installing solar. (Just the connection/grid fees). My home system paid for itself a few years ago. I encourage all my friends to install rooftop solar, and many have.

In all fairness, @John Dorrer, the compressor fridges, like home fridges, do need room to breathe. Just not to the outside, as @mountainoliver explained. Just like your home fridge. We installed "rails" or "ledges" epoxied to the cavity sides, and kept the fridge off the floor. Bonus, I have a nice shallow drawer under the fridge, where I keep flat pans, BBQ tools, flashlights, some miscellaneous items. It's open to the base of the fridge. We allowed twice the recommended venting in our install, but if we ever got caught in high temps, I can crack the drawer open a few inches, and double it again. (Not likely for us, as we chase cool weather, but who knows?) Thanks for your thoughts. They actually helped a lot in furthering discussions.

Agm, and fla batteries really do best when not fully discharged to 50 per cent limits, and fully charged daily. I think that's why our solar has given us "extra life" on both the boat and trailer batteries. Lithium is much more forgiving on deep discharge, and only occasionally brought back to 100 per cent. Lithium, in my experience, actually likes hanging out somewhere in the 75 to 80 per cent zone, which is a slow death for lead acid batteries. Different chemistry, different quirks.

I get it now, and actually think your thought process is spot on. Totally reverses my previous comment.👍

Actually, I tried Kydex on my first go at this. It is a bit thinner and that makes getting the holes for attaching the bracket easier . However, once cooled Kydex is less "forgiving" (i.e. harder) as compared to the relatively soft plastic I used. I'm sure that Kydex could work for this purpose but to really get a "form fit" as you would do with a holster, you would have to apply more heat to both the Kydex and, therefore, the camera body than I would feel comfortable with. Bill p.s. "You mentioned that newer cameras came with hoods, but the one on my 2023 did not." Yes, I think that I may have confused this with a camera that was installed by Patriot. A quick look at some 2024 photos shows that the camera I/we have is still being used on new Olivers.

LOL, I was thinking of someone covering their safety chains. Since we see too often see other trailers with their chains sparking on the pavement. But then we can't fix stupid.

I will have to ‘entertain’ that thought!

LOL! Come on guys it's obviously the base mount for an "entertainment pole"! 🙂 GJ

What if... I find the perfect spot, set up camp, enjoy the sunset and find out at around 2am the land I am on belongs to the infamous Sawyer family.

To my knowledge - Oliver does not use Shark Bite fittings. So, is it the fitting or the Shark Bite that has the leak? Also, please use the "signature" area to fill out details on both your Ollie and Tow Vehicle so that it is easier for members to respond to future questions. Thanks! Bill

It is possible that the "issue" has nothing to (or little to do) with water and the possibility it froze. These Shark Bite fittings are great for emergency repairs but they have been known to "loosen" due to the vibration caused by an RV simply going down the road. Also, these fittings are subject to improper installation which can cause "issues" as time goes by. On the few occasions that I've had to use Shark Bites I have always made what I believe to be a more permanent repair once I got home. Bill

@MAX Burner Thanks for your reply! 👍🏻👍🏻 I just called USAA about RSA on our car and two trucks and also spoke to Progressive about our RSA coverage for our Oliver. I was informed by both providers that a claim for Roadside Assistance would not cause our premiums to increase for the type of policies we have. USAA also said we would not loose our long standing policy discounts. cheers!

Your solar charge controller should handle that charging profile for you. Depending on the type of controller you have, MPPTs probably use a better AGM charging profile than the PWM type controller. Either way, the controllers should be configured to their specific AGM setting. We had AGMs in our previous camper and used a Blue Sky MPPT solar charge controller wired with 10AWG wires from the controller to the battery bank. Our solar modules would provide enough energy for a 13.6vDC bulk charge to the bank on a good sunny day then drop to a about 13.2v for a float charge after 13.6v was reached. But all charging profiles and systems are not the same... Suggest you contact the battery manufacturer and inform them of the type of controller you have and ask them for their recommendation.

This is an interesting topic. Good article, as well. Many thanks for sharing with the group, @Patriot... FYI, We've been with USAA for over 45 years - and started carrying Roadside Assistance Coverage soon after our son was born in '88 when a pop-up tent trailer was added to the stable. Never claimed a "RAC" incident until after many years and 4 RV's later when, in the middle of the Oklahoma Panhandle, we loose the alternator and the TV (a Suburban) is a roadside DOA. We had Verizon cells phones at the time, with a marginal signal, called USAA and they had a tow truck to us in less than an hour from a local town. Rigged up the "Sub" on the truck, and pulled it and the AS back to a Chevy dealer in nearby Guymon, OK. I'm certain there's similar experiences among OTT Owners out there - but, although a "claim", our premiums were not affected. Whether covered as a rider with your primary insurance carrier or from a secondary standalone RAC provider, we think it's worth it. We're glad we had it back then and we still have it today... My $0.02

@Mark and Lorraine Nice set-up, brother! FYI: We just converted our SL to a dedicated "OTT 12vDC system" from their original 120vAC router - in fact, this message is being shot out ATM with the "new" config. You'll love it when you get to use it in a few weeks on travel - for us, because D's working from "home", SL has been a total game changer. Enjoy yours! Here's our mast config and ethernet wire connection - on this, quick 1-nighter, trip we're using the flagpole at the lowest height setting (6-foot) just to get Dishy off the ground: Cheers! A & D