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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/23/2024 in all areas

  1. Maybe you installed the wrong kit for your door or installed it in the wrong orientation. The one extra-large hinge bracket with the two screws sticking more than a 1/4" into the door jamb area is likely the cause of your door failure. Note the Lippert Friction Hinge installed in our Oliver entrance door. The rivets show the original hinges, and the screws are on the friction hinges. Nothing in the door jamb like yours right at the point of door failure.
    3 points
  2. Yeah, I see now that your picture is with the door open screen closed and mine with the screen open with the door. We have the hairline cracks like many, and were present before the friction hinges were added and have not changed. The door on ours is 9 years old now. You can see the cracks behind the screen in my photo. If anything, friction hinges should help the door since it does not fly open and bang the hull in the wind like it used to. I installed ours in February, the day they arrived, a 15-minute install. The pair of friction hinges fill the gaps between the original hinges so that there is a hinge mount every 3-4" down the entire door frame. It adds reinforcement. Best $15 spent on our Oliver! We traveled 7 weeks since then and all the work I did this summer I opened the door and closed the door so many times since. The friction hinges cannot be the issue. The damage on Craig's door shows the laminate pulling out of the frame for likely some other reason.
    2 points
  3. Those hinges can only be installed one way , so installation was correct. What you may see is the screen door hinge in my photo. Until I do the door repair I’ll wait to report back a cause. My guess I’d a broken outer frame . Craig
    2 points
  4. Looks like we need a new door. A few months back first saw cracks on the interior panel by the window. This am we woke up buckled up by interior panel near hinges. Door wasn’t overstressed (wind) and works fine but is ugly. Feels like the frame of the door may be flexing due to a cracked door frame. I will likely self repair if I can find a new door. Ticket sent to Oliver Service. Craig Hull 505 @ 65k miles
    1 point
  5. I need to get a first hand up close look to see how these work. Am I correct they control the movement of the door, so the door doesn't fly open when you open the door in the wind🙃
    1 point
  6. A link to previous discussions -
    1 point
  7. Our door has plenty of cracks and I’m not sure why but it may have began with the wind pulling the door out of my hand while opening from the inside on a windy day. @jd1923's post about the additional hinges from Lippert would help with a windy day but as stiff as they make my door opening and closing, they just might be causing additional stress on the door frame. My door was cracked when I installed the extra hinges so I really don’t know if they would have prevented the cracks from happening to begin with. I have tried to remove some of the small pieces of the white plastic and they are somehow glued, epoxied or whatever to the styrofoam. I do think sun exposure is a contributing factor. Mossey
    1 point
  8. We had a similar experience. What began as one, fine crack near the window eventually spread with a spider-like appearance throughout most of the door over a period of several years. Finally decided to have the door replaced earlier this year by Oliver. I had asked Mike Sharpe if repair, instead of replacement, was an option. Mike had gotten that question before, and had then checked with a tech who had attempted the repair. Mike was told by the tech that the repair wasn't feasible; too labor intensive with unsatisfactory results. Note: the shade of the door (manufactured by Lippert) was a slightly different shade of white than the rest of the trailer; noticeable if you look for it. Jason said that Lippert might consider a custom job to match the shade of the existing door. However, even if would Lippert did agree to it, Jason was unsure of the cost or time it would take for the job. We decided to go with the slightly off-shade version. I had asked both Oliver and Lippert what caused the cracks, but neither knew. Good luck!
    1 point
  9. I look forward to your report. My hopes are the friction hinge is not the cause. I have had this mod on the back burner for awhile.
    1 point
  10. BTW, love our friction hinges. Travel to Texas and back heavy winds at many locations and the door did not bang once, usually would not move an inch!
    1 point
  11. I’ve got horizontal cracks all up and down the inside of the door. No separation yet. It’s mostly cosmetic and we’re living with it for now. Mike
    1 point
  12. Thanks Patriot. Foam core would explain the lightness of the door. From the way it cracked, I was thinking something like fake wood due to moisture intrusion. With foam core such cracking seems to be a bit unusual.
    1 point
  13. Thank you. I had the same question when I called HC before placing my order. I spoke to a fella named Gabe. I asked him about proper fitment? He said it is designed to put the downward pressure on the shank vs the clamp lifting the down pressure/tongue weight up. https://www.hitchclamp.com/pages/videos
    1 point
  14. My 3” hitch clamp arrived today. I decided to cancel my order with Amazon and order directly from Hitch Clamp for a much quicker delivery. Very impressed with the fit and finish of this product. Zero play or movement with this robust clamp. They also gave me a Veterans discount. 🇺🇸👍🏻 https://www.hitchclamp.com/collections/3-clamps
    1 point
  15. Precisely. Not real intuitive, but the button on the main inverter (under the street-side bed) must be in the "out" position, or off, to enable the remote (mounted on the wall) to control the inverter.
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. I assume you are not plugged into shore power and are running on batteries? Is the silver button on the Xantrex wall panel in the In position or Out? Are there any green LEDs lit on the panel?
    1 point
  18. Quick update.... All the numbers previously posted were my best guesstimates. I went to the dump to get a quick weight on the truck after the cap and slide were added and found that they were pretty damn good guesstimates. A Cap (6.5' bed) and slide added about 450 pounds to the overall weight. We took off some weight by removing storage boxes and changing out the running boards. Total payload is about 1500 lbs with full fuel. After me, wife, dog, and tongue weight we have about 500 lbs for gear. All in all still pretty happy with the performance. We'll have a short trip south after the Holidaze so we can see how she handles all in. Scotty
    1 point
  19. The only drying we do inside the Oliver is our bath towels, bath door closed and vent fan on. Same practice if we use the wet bath, but try to use park baths if found clean and well maintained.
    1 point
  20. Welcome @Richard Walker it’s always good to take a deep dive into Oliver University and your new owners manual. Oliver has also gone to great lengths to provide amazing owner support with this invaluable information. The videos Oliver has produced are extremely helpful. Naturally ask questions here on the forum we are more than willing to help. Hope to meet you at the 2025 Oliver Rally! Safe Travels! Patriot🇺🇸
    1 point
  21. Had a similar incident last trip on our way out of Houston, but a slow rolling tire was the ‘target’! Out of nowhere, said tire came rolling into my lane with little time to react and lane change not an option given the heavy traffic. Following some ‘flagrant language’, I immediately started to slow my speed to time for an impact at vehicle dead center. As I worked my way over to the first available exit, my thoughts were on potential damage to the Oliver, most likely to the fiberglass. Thankfully all was found good, but had the tire been on a rim this would have certainly been a dire situation.
    0 points
  22. Lucky this came up just as I was getting around to fixing it. On my way back from alaska this year I ended up having to hit an empty DEF box in the middle of the road. Didn't have a chance to avoid it but if I had thought more about it I would've at least gone over it off center instead of just straight on (initially figured itd be better for it to hit the part of my bumper that sticks down to protect the winch/diff in the center), ended up smashing the plastic loop that holds the cable to the "pin thing". Didn't even realize it was broken until a couple days later when I went to inspect everything to make sure it was still good.
    0 points
  23. Not sure that the added hinges caused our door frame to break, but after a few months this happened.
    0 points
  24. And with that, the last of the big V-8s. Edit: Yes, Chevy and Ford still make them but for how long. I'm still reeling from the loss of the Hemi
    0 points
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