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A magnetic catch is indeed useful. However if your trailer is level (particularly side to side) the door will stay in any position you leave it. In fact, I use the bathroom door as an indicator of how level the trailer is.

Thanks to Neil’s RV in Orem Utah! Our ‘shakedown’ trip completed (5000 miles over 18 days!) with 50-70 mph crosswind gusts… Very happy!

You can't run from it but you can run with it. Stay mobile, stay strong.

Try putting the magnet inside the dinette seat. It reduces the pull and can’t be seen.

I’m not sure our situations are similar but offer the following. I believe an error code 20 indicates loss of communication between the converter/inverter and the remote display. We were getting an error 20 code whenever our batteries were significantly discharged and we then plugged into shore power. We concurrently experienced a cyclical shutdown of the xantrex cooling fan, and when the cooling fan was shutdown, usually for only 10 seconds or so, the charging current to the batteries would decrease dramatically . I was unable to link my phone to the remote when it indicated an error 20. Once the batteries were fully charged, I could clear the error 20 code but restarting the inverter and the remote and I think I also restarted the batteries as Rivernerd suggested above. Unfortunately the code would occur the next time the batteries were charging on shore power after being discharged. After multiple calls to xantrex support which was not very helpful, I finally updated firmware to the converter/inverter, the remote and also the communication firmware and have never had another issue. There are detailed firmware update instructions on the xantrex support page and also some less detailed instructions on an Oliver support page. There is at least one other thread on Oliver Owners Forum re error 20. The firmware updates are easy but have very specific steps and file names. I hope this helps and good luck with your problem.

It re-set itself on the drive today, so I'm not going to touch things until I get home and order the replacement inverter breaker.

I figure a “professional” thief is kinda like a squirrel going after your bird feeders: That’s their business 24/7 and they’ll outsmart pretty much any “squirrel proof” feeders you have and find a way to chow down. Luckily, crooks that dedicated don’t waste their time on spare tires or propane tanks - they go after art, diamonds, and gold - or - they run for state or federal office.

Finally got around to switching out our LP tanks for aluminum ones. 17 lbs vs 25 lbs. Supposedly holds 8 gallons of propane. We shall see. Had to make a custom tank mount due to bottom ring being too large for the steel tank mount. Made it out of HDPE 3/4 in bottom and top half with cutouts (9 9/16 in circle) was 1/2 in thick. Slight modification to center rod and large wing nut to secure tanks. Rod I used was 36 in. Needs to be long enough go through frame. Used my hand held router with a Jasper circle jig. Worked great. Very happy with the results. Couple inches to spare height wise with fiberglass shell back on. One of the last vestiges of steel removed from the Oliver. https://flameking.com/product/ysn330-copy/ Pre-purged vacuum ready for filling with propane 12x12x26.5 in 17 lbs 7-8 gallons OPD valve 3

I went to service my new to me, but used Hull #527. After repacking the bearings I moved on to the jacks. I watched the Oliver Video on the 2 part inspection. After reading another thread, I decided to remove the jack motors and take to the shop. Like another poster I got the front jack off with some difficulty using a 5/32nd allen wrench. The rear jacks stumped the process. After "rounding"off all hope , I was stuck. The drive side eventually came off but NOT the curb side. After days of PB Blaster & torch (careful around the hot water heater styrofoam!), I was unable to remove ANY of the 6 set screws. I called Barker Mfg. and spoke with Bob. Very helpful!! He suggested hitting the aluminum ribs (3 ea. with steel set screws, thus the "welding), but only 2 are even accessible if still installed in the Ollie. Bob, thought if you could get one off, it would come off. So, i decided to remove the motor that I had in the shop, and start whacking. Ultimately, I had to use a grinder w/ a cutoff wheel and cut along the rib and above the screw. That worked, however when I went back to get the curb side motor, it was not that easy. I had to score the 2 accessible ribs on the side of ALL of the plumbing and with a punch & hammer, the influence was real! I have 2 new casings on the way! I have already used some anti seize on the tongue jack screws. In hindsight, i would remove the motor with 2 nuts and would have prevented me from cutting the wires on the driver side. Good luck finding Mobilith SHC 460 Grease, except on Amazon. Bob said any hi temp grease( I used white lithium grease) would work, and I asked about filling the lower shell. He said just cover the gears, and it will fling grease all over. So I decided on this tube at O'reilly and can keep in the camper. To clean the housing & inspecting the hi temp red grease in the tube it was a lot of work this time. I ultimately decided against packing w/ CV-2 grease, like the other thread. Talking to Barker Mfg., I ended up just staying with this Sta-Lube. Then why did you do all of this, my wife asked? Can you imagine trying to replace a bad motor on a camping trip? At a minimum I would check the set screws as well.

First of all, the suggested OTT service demonstrated in the Oliver University video is a joke. Oliver owners that do not generally do their own service should not bother. Your hull is only 3 years old, so unless it is noisy when cranking up or down, I would leave it alone for now. The only way to damage these mechanisms is when the lift get over-extended in either direction causing the worm gear to slip scraping both gears. However these jacks are FULLY serviceable! Though likely I am the only Oliver Owner to ever work the full procedure. Read page 2 of this thread were I demonstrated the full service procedure in detail with pictures,

@Galileo this may be the other A/C model you were looking for. I witnessed @Ronbrink’s installation in action. Very quiet, very efficient and runs at 10A on 120VAC compared to 16A or greater for Penguin and Truma, not sure re amperage on the Houghton. This model is on my list for Apr-May since we are traveling all of June this year. The efficiency of this unit will allow us to run A/C considerably longer on inverter!

I decided to get more into the proper balance of truck and trailer and purchased the Sherline Tongue Weight Scale. Love the simple design, ease of use and Made in the USA! I also have a dual-axle flatbed trailer which hauls our side-by-side and I need to get that straight where I can strap down the UTV further up or back to get it truly balanced to pull with a 1/2 ton truck. There is an Amazon business price at $152. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007REK28M?ref=fed_asin_title I tried it out today, though our Oliver has no water in the fresh tank, no clothes in the rear cabinets or closet and no food or other supplies in the pantry and fridge and no gallons of drinking water and various adult beverages in the floor of our Oliver closet! I will measure again next week prior to heading out to Quartzsite! After a first trip, we came home and measured 6,000 LBS for the Oliver. This was likely the average weight at the time, but after mods and more travel stuff we should be camped today closer to 6,600 GTW (will soon, but have not measured GTW recently). More or less empty today, I measured 565 LBS Tongue Weight, and being empty at say 5,800 LBS this is 9.7% tongue weight which is at the low end. My first thought is to think hard about mounting bikes or other cargo on the rear of your Oliver. Our OEM OTT 2" bike rack is removed and sitting in our shed. As mentioned, I will do this again next week when the FWT is full and we are packed to leave town! I like this little gadget!

I also got the Sherline scale from Amazon and got results within about 5# of yours. With the Andersen “No-Sway” WD hitch, I don’t think being a hair under the “10-15% of trailer weight” is a problem. Zero tendency to sway even if I antagonize it to test it out. I AM taking the Sherline out of the basement and leaving it in the Bus Barn though. That thing is solid metal! I don’t need to tote around any more weight than I have to, and we’re not changing the W&B of our trailer significantly by adding bikes, scooters, etc anywhere.

You are not alone; some owners bothered more than others, but your assessment is spot on!

To your point, I weave a metal cable through the tank handles as further deterrent/securement; the looped ends are on the center threaded stock.

Some of those stops look familiar. I’m sure I have pics somewhere. Did the NOLA to Grand Canyon route last year and hit Winslow, Homolovi, Church Rock, Palo Dura, Sedona, Carlsbad, et al. We didn’t really follow Rt 66 - but did bounce on it a few times. (Watch out for that black wasp with the bright orange wings! A “Tarantula Assassin” I think they call it. Reputed to have the most painful sting known. “All you can do is lay there and scream”….)

The age thing is definitely overrated... We had ours done 18 months ago. We used to wax, but after a long trip cleaning the Mojo took considerable elbow grease. We returned from a long trip in 10/24 and the Mojo hadn't been washed in over 2 months. It cleaned up easily. Black drip stains wiped away with almost no effort. Even bugs were easier to remove. It looks better than new. So I'd say it is definitely worth the money given the cleaning and waxing time saved, and the appearance of the cleaned fiberglass. Ours is garaged and we use RockTamers. Ditto!

If you or I tried to sell a spare, mounted trailer tire - even a new one on a nice rim - you’d be right. No one would give us $5 for it. Unfortunately, the types of amateur thieves who steel anything not nailed down, don’t know what the street value of stuff is. They might toss it away after not being able to sell it for a fix or a drink. That still leaves you and I picking up the pieces and repairing the damage they do. I once made the mistake of leaving a tote bag in my car that -looked- like it might have a laptop in it. Some knucklehead broke my window to steal it. They were likely quite disappointed to find out they stole a bag full of Libertarian party literature. I, on the other hand, had to drive home 15 miles in the dead of winter with no passenger door window, and spend $60 and a day chasing and replacing a window from a salvage yard.

Try this link: Bathroom Door Hack It’s from 2019. There are a couple of earlier posts, but they don’t seem to be active. I think I did this in 2017. The only change to what I posted is that I moved the magnet inside the dinette seat. It doesn’t show and the grip is not as strong but holds fine. You can see the magnet on the door, but only if you look. You can order these door magnets on Amazon fairly easily. Mike

Any magnet will work since the door frame has steel in it. This is what I did (round magnet on left). I used 3M VHB to mount it. The magnet was too strong so I put some foam tape on the corner door frame to soften the pull.

I switched tow vehicles, from a 2022 3.4L Tundra to a 2024 STX F-150 5.0L 2WD 3.73 differential, LE-2 #75, you have my previous Tundra listed on line 42. The list is well done! Good job!

It was so cold here the other morning I saw a politician with his hands in his own pockets, and no spare tire! 😂 Ba da bum!

Curious how that worked out….. We opted for the Oliver after deciding upon a fiberglass trailer, discovering that the Casita was too small, and not wanting to venture to the PNW or BC to look at the other FRP trailers. We had looked at cheap “Coleman” trailers (like $12,000 at the time) but we’d had bad experiences with typical “built-up” motor homes that that shake themselves apart and leak after 3 weeks. (The last one we literally had to give away.) I am and remain impressed by the construction of the Oliver over the stick-built, aluminum covered trailers. Anyway - we heard that Oliver resale values were “high” or “great”. Salesman even said you could sell it used for most of what you paid for it. That said - just curious what people have seen used Olivers going for and/or how much people bought (or sold) their used ones for. BTW - saw my first “Bowlus” trailer today. I looked them up and they’re gosh-awful expensive. I don’t care for the looks, and that pointy back and and flimsy bumper look like they’re inviting a rear-end collision by one of the many tailgating drivers out there…..

We have a 1Up Super Duty Bike rack which lives on the back of “XPLOR”. In order to access the spare, I have to unlock and remove our bikes, then unlock the bike rack in two locations, and remove it. So for now that’s how we roll with rear spare security. Steinaker SP, Vernal, Utah

Surely no man ever said I have too much LP, so I am in the 30# tank club here. 😄 We enjoyed rarely having to fill out LP tanks on our 48 day trip out west last fall and rarely had thoughts about LP. Never had any issues with locating an LP supplier out west during our travels. I digress. Nice work @rideadeuce nothing better than a clean fit and finish DYI install! The only thing you may want to consider is adding a lock to your T-handle where you secure those pretty new aluminum tanks. Will it completely stop a theft likely not. But it may cause the thug to move on to a more target rich environment. Although, I have never had anybody attempt to steel our tanks, it is merely a peace of mind and an easy mod. Simply flatten your T-handle out a little after tightening it down mark and drill a hole through the T handle and the tank security bracket (pic). I ran a small pistol cable lock securing the T handle to the mount bracket. Or you can just use a decent pad lock. Again nice work on the scooping up the tanks and mount fab! Patriot🇺🇸🇺🇸

Thanks again, GJ. Love the PITA factor! 🤣 I went into Oliver ownership thinking I could pay about half the cost of a new hull with the used one I found locally, and then add $10K in component upgrades (plus my labor). I then purchased a truck at 20% of the cost of a new 2500 diesel truck (both were great finds!) and again invest another $10K in parts for TV restoration and upgrades. The plan has worked well except that I have added $12K in parts to the 2016 Oliver and another $12K to our 2001 Dodge Ram, so I'm $4K over budget and several hundred hours into maintenance and restoration labor. But as you can tell, I certainly enjoy this work! I would like to upgrade the A/C spending $1,650 plus labor and our Oliver does not need much more except for perhaps a Starlink Mini at some point. The Ram is in great shape today except I may spend on a stage II transmission rebuild someday which would certainly be WAY over budget. I like the classic look of our 2016 Oliver pulled by a matching 2001 TV. It suites our style! These pictures were taken about a month after our purchase in July of 2023, without new wheels and tires and all the Oliver mods! 😂 Oh, and I do use the Anderson regularly. Not for sway but for leveling. The TT and TV become one with the Anderson, otherwise it would be bouncy at the hitch (not enough tongue weight).

Nice mod and great installation work as usual Mike! @rideadeuce Love our 30# tanks and would upgrade if we purchased an Oliver with only 20s. I don't see the need for aluminum tanks with years left on our tanks that were upgraded by a previous owner. It's only a 16LB savings, the weight of 2 gallons of drinking water. I do like 8 vs. 6.8 gallons capacity but this is a lot of money. We traveled twice this February, 7 nights to Q and back and 5 nights to the Santa Catalinas near Tucson. Twelve nights out camping, cooking on the Weber Q grill and the stovetop, limited furnace use give the reasonable temps and we only used the fire ring on two nights! Our first 30# tank is now at 22% and the second is still full. If we had two 20s we would be into the second tank already! What if we lived or traveled north? Would you as well use enough, someday? I love that we can and have gone for 4 weeks and only fill tanks when we return home. 😂

Though we’ve run into a few rude, noisy, encroaching, obnoxious folks -luckily not too many. Sometimes, it’s the result of a poorly laid-out campground. When the fire ring, picnic table, or grill are on the street side - sometimes people don’t know which is theirs. There’s a few sites like that here at Fontainebleau State Park in Mandeville, LA. Those are perfect when two families wanna bring their trailers and share the space between them. Otherwise, not so much. Most obnoxious ones are when folks totally blow off the people/vehicle limitation. At Flamingo Campground at Everglades NP - there were no fewer than twenty trucks with boats on trailers congregating at one camp site - drinking and guffawing late into the night. Camp host? Safely segregated far away from all campers. They finally departed about 11:30pm. Still, the mosquitoes are the reason I won’t be back there.

Thank you GJ, and yes, please swing by Prescott when you travel the mainland this year! I installed this pump Jan 2024 after earlier trying a Seaflo pump that did not work out to my expectations. I wrote up a mod post on this and the motorized valves installation here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9771-water-system-upgrade-for-better-water-flow-pressure OK, so y'all are going to love this! This guy, me, installation guru guy, I can be dumb, and yes dumber than the next guy! 🤣 I FOUND THE LEAK! Why did it leak on Day 2 of our trip but not during Day 1? As Chris has told me often, when I loose something, "retrace your steps." I started thinking in this way. Then realized, I used the outdoor shower at the campsite to rinse something our first day out. I left the cold water valve on. The only thing holding the water from flowing out fully was the water control lever in the shower head. I fixed this by merely closing the valve, OMG! I was hoping it would be easy to see and correct and it was. So, we're back to NO failures since we took possession of our Oliver, lucky number Hull 113 on June 7 2023. I'm knocking on WOOD now, three times, since saying this. That large block of WOOD, up top and center, often referred to as the NOGGIN!

Thanks! We are looking forward to it. Tim & Christie, Hull #1283

Hey, Bill -- slow down, brother. If you don't, you'll eventually just die tired! HA!

I have awnings on both sides and the seal does collect stuff, but I just take a brush to it and water pressure and clean the area. I don't think much about it either. John

One time we camped close to Rt. 66 Winslow AZ, Homolovi State Park. https://azstateparks.com/homolovi Nice SP and happened to be a car show on Main Street @ Winslow on Rt. 66. Just off of I40, too. Very enjoyable day.

I feel the pinch too. Everything has gone up except my pay and I am still paying for two houses waiting for the bigger one to sell. Hopefully, the economy will get better after the election.

Since I'm not going to replace my a/c until what I've got breaks, I have only scanned the posts above for general reference. Having said that - you two guys are amazing and I really do appreciate the thought and work that you are/have put(ting) into this project. Bill

That looks like a great way to hold the door open! There are a couple of other ideas at the link below. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-bathroom-door-hold-open/ I did add a couple of stick-on bumpers to decrease the magnet strength.

Made them go street side to their assigned set-up area. The funny thing is they have a large outdoor TV street side. I sincerely think they felt very entitled as yesterday check out was 11am and they stayed 2-1/2 hours past check out🙃