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Yes, I sold our “Demonic Penguin” on FB market place to guy who owns a food truck somewhere near Statesville, NC for $600. It sold about 3 hrs after posting it.

Thanks @jd1923. Really helpful. I placed my order today for the two Essential 300aH batteries. I have the Blue Seas switch ordered from Amazon. This evening I disconnected, capped and taped the black charging wire from my 7-pin lead under the bathroom vanity. Once the delivieries show up, I'll start pulling apart my AGM set up and hope things go smoothly 🙂 Thanks for taking time to think about my questions and replying with your help and advice!

Yep. Sold mine for $550.

One thing I have learned in the short time I have been on this forum. There are a lot of very smart Oliver Owners out there that know a lot about how different systems work. I can figure out the installation of a new AC unit and make it work but struggle with understanding the benefits of one over the other. Curious as to the boards thoughts on this unit as I still contemplate my upgrade from the Dometic Penguin. What I have been able to understand from the little I have found. 1. It should fit pre-existing hole and low profile. .5 inch taller than the Dometic. 2. Inverter ACs consume less power and would not need a soft start and run longer on batteries. 3. Quieter than dometic. 4. Would not be able to use drain tubes. 5. Uses same technology as home mini-splits. Seems to be a pretty new product with little info out there, https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-psxzbpngA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsnWzNLYGOY

Now up over 50,000 hours on our National Luna without a single issue. I did swap the control panel for the newer Bluetooth panel late last fall, but other than blowing out the internals with my air compressor every year or so, all it has needed is cleaning.

We recently bought a BougeRV CRD45 48QT 12 Volt Dual Zone Car Refrigerator : CRD45 We've used it recently for a trip from CT to FL and it worked great. It has two individually controlled compartments, each one can be either refrigerator or freezer ( you can make both sides the same if you want). The temperature control was good and it has a fast cooldown mode and an economy mode. We've only used it for one trip so far but so far we're impressed. The unit runs on AC or DC and you can also purchase a battery for it as well ( so you can use it as a portable cooler ).

I just stumbled across an app that says it can be used to help diagnose issues with the Dometic air conditioner in an RV. I've not used this myself but thought that it just might help if your having issues with your Dometic AC. The app can be found HERE. Bill

A Honda 2200 EUi has a continuous rating of 2,000 kW which means it is capable of putting at most 2 kilowatt hours (kWh) of energy into an EV battery if it runs for an hour. An EV pickup like the F150 lightening will travel from 2-2.5 miles on a kWh of battery power in normal driving. That means if you wanted to add driving range using an Honda 2200 EUi, you would need to run the generator for a full hour for every 2 miles of additional range you wanted. Level one chargers at home (120 volts) are limited to about the same charging rate as a 2200 EUi; a rate of about 2 kW (15 amps x 120 volts equals 1.8 kW charging rate). Level 2 home (240 volt) chargers can charge a vehicle up to a 16 kW rate (i.e., the F150 Lightening) depending on the specific vehicle. The charging rate using AC power from home is limited by the charging circuitry in the vehicle that converts AC power from the home plug to DC power into the batteries. These internal vehicle electronics limit the charging current (whether 120 volts or 240 volts) so charging the vehicle will not trip the circuit breaker in the home panel. The charging stations being built along freeways, et. are DC fast chargers. They supply DC power directly into the vehicle batteries and typically are capable of charging the vehicle at a rate of 150-250 kW rate which is why they can charge a vehicle like an F 150 lightening from zero to 80% charge in way under an hour. It would take a 2200 EUi over 50 hours of continuous charging to do the same. The good news is if you had an EV like the F150 lightening that is capable of bi-directional power flow, you wouldn't need much if any battery storage in the Oliver itself. When you set up camp, you plug the trailer into the F150 (with 130 kWh of battery), you have over 100 kWh hours of battery reserve for over a month of camping assuming you arrive at camp with close to a full charge in the vehicle. My son is a rural large animal veterinarian and has an F150 Lightening (11,000 lbs towing capacity) as his work vehicle. It gives him several hundred miles of range which is more than enough for a day of ranch calls and he can recharge it from empty to full overnight at home with his 16 kW level 2 charger. Last summer his batteries in his travel trailer were nearly shot but he didn't replace them. He just took his family camping and plugged in to the F150 when they got to their campsite. My son did keep his gas powered F150 for now for the rare times he needs to travel out of state or go on hunting trips more than several hundred miles from home.

A bit late chiming in, looks like you confirmed/answered your own questions. The Gree Eco-Cool and Dreiha Atmos 4.4 are exactly the same; both have R32, like interior plenums with control panel, and remote and wi-fi app controls. Here’s another YT video by Why Not RV, wherein he installs the Gree on his Airstream, once again exactly as my install of the Atmos (other than the furnace wiring/wall thermostat). No direct link to the video but you get the picture, pun intended! Also shown an excerpt from the Eco-Cool Owner’s Manual on the refrigerant.

So in the video he measured with a phone app, and who knows how accurate that is, but he measured both A/C units the same way. His numbers were 64 for the Turbro and 56 for the Gree which is a significant difference. Each time he was in the room with the Turbro the sound was apparent, and he complained of it, but not so the Gree Eco-Cool. Gree advertises High Fan 56, Med 52, and Low 43 dB which seems reasonable. The Dreiha Atmos spec sheet merely states one number at 53 dB, go figure. So many spec sheets have wrong data listed, trust but verify. The Turbro is an inverter design, but I do not believe the others are so. It appears to be a great product, technically. I wish the interior air handling was more thought through. Given its low power consumption, trim exterior design, very low exterior sound and other factors, it may be a very good product for those who live in hot/humid areas needing to run the A/C often and for those wanting to run A/C on superior battery AH and inverter capability. I can certainly see why @Derek B is interested! With some time in the market, I hope to see some positive consumer reviews.

Haven’t heard of anything. I just checked 511 AZ app typed destination Show Low and no warnings along the route from here to there. Don’t know about New Mexico. Camping should be wide open Mar~Apr and temps are warm for the elevation. Come see us in Prescott! Have a great trip.

CGI Detailing is going to attending this year's Maine Rally. CGI Detailing will also be doing Ceramic Coatings while we are in the New England area, if you're interested in having your Oliver or Vehicle ceramic coated please feel free to reach out to us! or fill out our sign up form https://www.cgidetailing.com/travel Everything you need to know about how we plan our trips should be listed at this link, however if there are any questions don't hesitate to give us a call! (615) 900-0648 Just so you don't have to search for pricing, Here is what we charge for our ceramic coatings! Oliver Legacy Elite II: Starting price: $3,000 Oliver Legacy Elite I: Starting price: $2,500 If you're interested in getting your Tow Vehicle Ceramic Coated as well, Our price for Trucks is $1,200. This includes a $300 discount!

The following should convince all that the Gree Eco Cool and the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 are the same. Gree was selling units with 410A refrigerant summer of 2024 but the manuals for BOTH products cite R32 today, 410A being phased out. Everything about these look the same today! Tosot brand might also be the same: https://www.amazon.com/TOSOT-Conditioner-Non-Ducted-Rooftop-High-Efficiency/dp/B0CDWR5RP9/?th=1 Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Manual.pdf Gree Eco Cool Manual.pdf

OTT and most Oliver owners have gone with a Blue Sea Systems. Given you will switch the ground, I would get the black one. This ON/OFF switch is rated 300A: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-6008-Selector/dp/B00558LSJE/?th=1 Given your switch will just sit on top of the outside battery, I would tape it down to the top with some 3M VHB 4950 tape. Given you're thinking the two 300AH Epoch Essentials, your picture shows two good jumper cables that should fit like I mounted mine. One of the two shorty cables can be used to go from the negative battery post to your cut-off switch. This should add a good 6" to the main negative cable which in my installation is the furthest out. Yes, get bolts long enough, but just long enough. There is less than 3/4" of thread in the batteries. You need enough threads to hold well but not too much to bottom out the bolt where it would not hold the cables tight. Two included bolts may fit where you would have just one cable bolted down. Two should be about 1/2" longer to hold the main cable, the jumper cable and two of the thinner 6 AWG cables. The manual calls for M10 bolts (metric) torqued to 35 Nm (25 lb-ft). I used a short 13mm box-end wrench, short so not to over-do it and got each "good-n-tight" by hand. I would buy today and not wait until the last day. Remember, we're here to help. Take the plunge! Since last summer, I have been extremely happy with ours. 🤣

Just to clarify, I lifted the following statement from the Sprinter forum: “Gree manufactures both the Eco Cool and Atmos 4.4 air conditioner, they are just labeled under different brand names. They are exactly the same units.” I’ve also read that Tosot by Gree is the same, as well. From what I have learned, none of these Gree units have a “built-in SoftStart”, that was a widely spread misconception which has been dispelled. I personally installed an Atmos 4.4 w/SoftStartRV on my OLEll. The Dry Mode is real; has a forth fan speed, ‘Turbo’; and both a remote and ceiling air diffuser control panel. On some SOBs when ducted, an optional wall thermostat is needed depending on the installation.

I have my DPll 11K listed on my go-tos, FB Marketplace and OfferUp. I’ve brought in thousands of dollars in past listing and ultimately someone will buy this unit. However, typical inquires include ridiculous offers and money-stricken individuals who can’t really afford, but with patience a viable buyer will happily pay the asking price or a perceived ‘bottom line’ price. There is no fee paid for use of these two sites.

Hi Derek, Good question, I'm also curious what folks think about the Greenland Turbo Inverter. It could be my top choice except that it’s only rated to operate in temperature ranges from 19.4℉ to 109.4℉. I asked the manufacture if that related to the inside or outside temperature, and they said both. I reached out to them again for more perspective because temperatures over 109℉ are common, and that’s when the AC is most needed. I’m hoping to hear some better explanations next week because that could be a non-starter. Another potentially controversial issue is that the Greenland is designed to slowly ramp the compressor up-and-down - continuously. The starting/running current looks like a smooth sine-wave, unlike conventional compressors that turn on with a large inrush starting current and then a steady run current. The Greenland runs continuously when in use, cycling the compressor from high-to-low to maintain temperature. The conventional AC compressor constantly turns on-off when in use. Our Penguin sometimes does that every 30 seconds. I was skeptical of the Greenland at first, but after more thought I think it’s a good design because it doesn't have frequent starts and stops, and there is less temperature fluctuation. They supposedly have lower energy consumption, and are very quiet at 45db. They come with a remote control thermostat where I’d prefer a wired one to replace the existing one. Another interesting AC is the Eco Cool by Gree. It’s also a heat pump with a built-in SoftStart. The manufacture claims its the quietest. I like that it has “intelligent” dehumidification, a 3-speed fan, and both remote and wired thermostat. The Houghton and Dreiha Atmos are on the table too, they are getting good reviews! From what I understand, the Truma is unavailable for DIY. Cheers! Geoff

Here's a Dexter video about the label and they mention the number etched into the axle. I called Dexter with the SN etched into one of our axles and they emailed a build sheet from that number.

Lookout on Rim Road on our way out! Hwy 260 down below, what a climb!

First stop was Boondocking on the Mogollion Rim. About 40 minutes east of Payson on Hwy 260, turn left on Rim Rd. The Mogollon Rim Visitors Center is on the corner. Paved road down just a couple miles, then we turned left on FR9350 where the have 42 marked Dispersed Camping sites. The cliff side sites were all take. And we were happy that #14 was open! They say after site #19 the road gets steep and hairy! Amazing views on the Rim!

Zamp says it is perfectly OK to use a mild automotive soap and water, which is what I have always done, I scrub the panels with a soft brush and a pole when I wash the trailer. They also say: “Do not use any harsh chemicals or a power washer when cleaning the panels as this could damage the anti reflective coating applied to the glass.” https://www.zampsolar.com/blogs/solar-101/how-to-clean-zamp-solar-panels But a whole lot of solar specialists say never use soap to clean a panel, the soap remains behind as a film and attracts more dirt and can harm that anti-reflective coating. Here is one article, these guys have developed specialty equipment using deionized water and rotating brushes. It is quite interesting, but there is no way a home or Ollie owner is going to do that! https://www.solarpowerworldonline.com/2020/05/pro-tip-never-use-soap-to-clean-dirty-solar-panels/ I just finished completely detailing the roof of “Mouse” and I used a car detailing spray (Griot’s Speed Shine) which has no waxes or silicones in it. It is perfect for prepping the surface with a clay bar before applying a carauba wax or a coating like Rejex. There were a whole lot of hard water spots on the panels. I used an artificial clay bar with Speed Shine and also scraped a couple of nasty sap deposits using a wet plastic scraper. The panels look great, the spots are gone. BUT did I damage or remove that coating? Are my panels screwed up? Comments welcome, do you clean your panels, and how? https://www.griotsgarage.com/speed-shine/ https://www.griotsgarage.com/brilliant-finish-synthetic-clay/ BTW that bar is truly brilliant compared to a real clay bar. It works great to take off bug carcasses and small sap drops. Really large sap tends to clog it up. I use a plastic scraper with Speed Shine to get those off. If you drop it, wash it off in a bucket of water and carry on. OTH, a genuine clay bar should be thrown out if dropped. One bad thing about the Griots one, it is round, so if you lay it down on the roof it can roll right off and go half way across your garage floor. 😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Let me see - wind, rain, hail, sand, dirt, bugs, gloom of night, harsh sun, tree sap, repeat (not necessarily in that order) - what could go wrong? "harsh chemicals" - define please. For what its worth, I don't usually consider anything that I can leave my unprotected hand in for an hour unduly "harsh". But, then again, you should see my hands 😁. "power washer" - do they mean that poor pathetic electric power washer or the 5,000 psi job that will take your skin off? In any case - is it ever wise to use a power washer of virtually any sort on electrical equipment? I wash my solar panels with the same stuff I use for the rest of the Ollie and for my cars and for my truck. I don't see any difference. But, then again, my eyes are getting to be a lot like my hands 😇. Bill

I received a reply from Greenland this morning and I'm still on the fence with its viability, despite its other excellent attributes. Customer service has been very responsive though: "Turbo Customer Service Thank you for your patience and continued interest in our products. The ambient temperature needs to be lower than 109 degrees is designed to protect the compressor's longevity. Regarding the low-temperature threshold, the design of this product does not include electric auxiliary heating so it does not heat when the ambient temperature is below 20°F."

It turns out that there is ONE person in the country that handles appointments for the service centers, and if she's at a show or other event you won't hear from her for weeks. That was the case for us as we were traveling to FL over the winter and had a problem with our water heater. She finally called back two weeks later and I was told that the service center couldn't see us for another three weeks. We ended up going with a " Truma certified mobile tech" and that experience was less than ideal. Our Truma service support was horrible but that's a long story for another time.