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Very cool monocoque fiberglass RV made in Bosnia. Bigger than an LE2 with a dry bath. Built by a yacht company.

As eluded to in the above quote and my recent comment made in @rideadeuce’s July 18, 2024 post entitled First highway roadtrip with Atmos 4.4 => MI, I am pleased to share the following information gleaned from other SOB forum and FB members. I learned that the Cielo Breez Max is the only wall-mounted thermostat compatible with the Atmos, which has a programmable Comfy Mode that can turn power off based on either temperature or humidity setpoints. For further information on its use and features search ‘Cielo Breez Max Detailed User Manual / Gemaire Distributors’. The Cielo Home app utilizes WlFi for initial settings and preferences, and to pair the Atmos remote. In said mode, once custom temperature or humidity comfort ranges are dialed in, the Cielo will turn on power when the high setting is exceeded and subsequently turn off power when the lower setting is exceeded. This is ‘HUGE’, whereby 1) both the the fan and compressor cycle on and off in sync at startup and shutdown, respectively and thus, the fan doesn’t run continuously so no more dreaded humidity spikes and 2) there is an energy savings benefit, especially when running on the house batteries. There are other benefits like being able to control and monitor the Atmos from anywhere, but the two aforementioned have been my main focus. That said, I have not yet conducted batt run durations, but will report findings when I do so. After several tests under varying weather conditions and device settings at my Houston residence, I find this Cielo a ‘keeper’! I currently have three Comfy Temperature templates for Day, Nite and Storage; and one Comfy Humidity, which I tested this morning. I also moved the end of the thermistor outside of the air distribution cover to test temperature sensing; still evaluating. I found this mounting location best, given there is a power cord.

Just following up…..did Oliver provide a fix for your issue? If so care to share?

Interesting design, but the rear overhang is HUGE. Coupled with what appears to be low ground clearance, the departure angle would be really small.

Interesting, though I don't think I could ever get used to the looks of it...

My trip to the 2025 Owner's Rally:

Wire it to this? https://fithops.com/products/fithops-camp-safe-12-gauge-perimeter-trip-rescue-alarm?variant=41448589459523&utm_campaign=1872547140&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=69485715785&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1872547140&gclid=Cj0KCQjwotDBBhCQARIsAG5pinN8D3_ApmbpWX1uKkqAQuYFJpSrlq0JsbLG3ESk-hcciu7hNo8Mn8gaAkd1EALw_wcB

We are thrilled to announce the 2026 Oliver Rally will be held at the stunning Lake Guntersville State Park in Alabama from October 21 to October 25, 2026! Get ready for another unforgettable gathering of Oliver Travel Trailer owners and enthusiasts as we come together to celebrate community, adventure, and the great outdoors. This annual event is your opportunity to connect with fellow Ollie owners, exchange travel stories, learn helpful tips, and enjoy the camaraderie that makes the Oliver family so special. Location: Lake Guntersville State Park, Alabama Breathtaking lake views, hiking trails, wildlife, and top-notch camping facilities await! Dates: Wednesday, October 28 – Sunday, November 1, 2026 Wednesday, October 21 - Sunday, October 25, 2026 What to Expect: Welcome Reception & Meet-and-Greet Educational Workshops Vendor Exhibits & Product Demonstrations Group Activities, Games & Outdoor Adventures Evening Campfires & Entertainment Raffle Prizes, Giveaways & More! Whether you're a seasoned rally-goer or attending for the first time, there's something for everyone at the 2026 Oliver Rally. We can’t wait to make new memories and celebrate our shared love of travel, craftsmanship, and community. Registration details and event schedule coming soon – stay tuned! Until then, mark your calendars and start planning your route to Lake Guntersville — we’ll see you there!

Prompted by similar posts on the Facebook groups and here on the Oliver forum, I finally assembled my portable solar kit. I’ve had a Bluetti 200W solar panel (which does not have an integrated charge controller) for several years to help keep the EB70 in my truck charged up. I added a second after we got the Oliver, as well as a Vicrton MPPT 100/20 charge controller. My original intention was to interrupt the line between the solar port and the battery. But I really didn’t want to do something that invasive. So instead, like many owners before me, I built a suitcase case to supplement my suitcase panels. A Cabela’s plastic ammo box works great to mount the charge controller, an SAE solar port, and an MC4 PV port. It also holds the 10 gauge SAE and 30’ 10 gauge MC4 cables, inline fuse, polarity reverser, and MC4 tools. All in a handy box. This will be handy next weekend, when we leave for a ten day trip to New York’s Adirondack area at Fish Creek Pond. There are camp sites all around the lake; every one a waterfront spot. But no hookups and lots of trees. So hopefully 800W of solar panels will keep us well charged.

We just returned from 12 days RVing in Alaska, but not in our Oliver. It's a long way from CT to AK and with doctor appointments, etc. it really isn't possible for us to be away from home that long, so we flew out and rented a Class C motorhome. What a great decision! We had a blast and really liked the little Minnie Winnie RV. It was the perfect couples camper, only 24.5 feet long (just like our LE2) with a single slide and a very functional layout. And in great shape, too, being a 2025 model year. Just as easy to drive/park as our dually truck. We did Anchorage, the Kenai Peninsula, Talkeetna, and 3 nights in Denali. If you've never seen AK we'd recommend putting it on your bucket list for sure. FYI, the RV rental agency we used was Great Alaskan Holidays - www.greatalaskanholidays.com. Highly recommend them if you choose the fly/rent route.

The Cielo is independent of the remote and actually turns OFF the power to the Atmos 1° below the low temp setting then turns ON the power to the Atmos 1° above the high setting. There is zero power draw during the shutdown period. When using the thermostat, the remote must be turned OFF and the phone app used to control. The remote can be used for normal operation of the unit, but for enhanced features like Comfy Mode the app is used. Selecting the proper temp setpoint will determine if the fan or compressor runs longer at shutdown. I will address that another time. There is also a Comfy Max Mode, which mimics a home HVAC set for heat/cool, but I think the fan is continuous. Did this answer your question?

I placed ours inside the inside or interior of the hull and it works fine. The idea is to allow it to be placed where another cell phone will pick up the signal the AT is sending. The inside AC might be good as long as the adhesive on the AT holder does not fail and you loose it. I have one hidden in my Honda generator, TV, car, as well.

I would be very leery of sway with such a design. Our OE2's have the tires well aft. They provide a long radius arm from the ball thereby contributing to the no sway attribute that we enjoy. The two pictures that show the front of the trailer are different. The Show version has no propane tanks, but does show a very light weight frame. Not strong like OTT uses. The mountain man pic shows a tank cover similar to OTT's. This with low ground clearance would in my minds eye is clearly an on paved roads rig only. It would seem that for A/C they are using a split system with possibly under hull condenser air transfer. That would have lots of advantages. Add to the clean roof direct applied solar panels and Litho's would be really nice. Interesting design with lots to like if you are only a "road runner". GJ

Ours are 10 years old, look nicely arced. Purchased a backup pair for travel safety, but leaving ours as-is until maybe one day I upgrade to 5200 lb axles and the would get the 5-leaf Alcans which is the co recommendation. Perhaps Dexter used better steel 10-16 years ago. Leave well enough alone in our case.

Very interesting. 23’ living space. A/C under seats , heat in floor so no roof penetration.

Received this kit today. It plugged into same harness. I had mounted the previous controller bracket with VHB tape, so it came off quickly and cleanly. All I had to do was mount the new bracket. Easy menus to configure it. I'm really going to like the 3 boost settings for downhill braking in the mountains. Got the trailer wheels off the ground again, one side at a time, and the brake response is like night and day. The new controller is immediately responsive. With hindsight I can now see how the old controller had been getting less responsive, likely cause of my truck brakes overheating on steep declines during our trip back from Texas last fall. I also figured out a way to set the self-adjusters without going through the adjustment opening behind the wheels. With wheels off the ground, wife or friend applying the brakes lightly (or use brake lever on the controller), rock the wheels backwards and forwards and you can even hear the adjuster clicking each time. I found the forward brake shoes pretty close to the drums, but the shoes on the rear axles were much looser, likely from less weight being the rears when braking. I got all 4 wheels where you could hear and feel the shoes just lightly scraping the drums while spinning the tires. I'll fine tune the gain, as we get on the road tomorrow, on a long flat stretch which we just don't have in our neighborhood. "On the road again..."

I was going to ask the same thing. I’m pretty comfortable with a 4 leaf full length spring made with US steel and a 2000 lb rating.

Why the focus on the weight of the spring and where does this number come from? I admit that I know nearly nothing about leaf spring tech, but shouldn't the weight rating of the spring and the quality of the steel and construction be all that really matters?

what is the weight of their 4 leaf spring? Needs to be at least 17 pounds. GJ

Here's an update on the LE2 sliding vent window tracks. I believe the correct Hehr part numbers are H109-602 (for the curved sections) and H109-599 for the straight pieces. These can be ordered from Pelland. There is an update for these vent tracks. The tracks having the wooly fuzz on each side vertical section were replaced by flexible track made of TPV. I do not have part number or supplier information for that, at least not at this time. The TPV track is flexible enough that a separate radius-ed part is not required. The sliding portions of the 5600 / 7600 windows are not designed to be removed (the only Hehr window sold up to this point which is designed this way), so replacing the vent tracks can be tricky. I understand the vent tracks were made by an (unidentified) outside supplier and not by Hehr. I further understand that the window model number is 5600. Hehr 7600 windows are identical to the 5600 with the exception of the outer trim, meaning 5600 and 7600 series parts should work on Ollies with 5600 series windows. Neither the 5600 series nor the 7600 series are shown among Lippert's current product offerings. The story is a lot longer than this, but the important information is above. Tim

That’s awesome. I don’t know how I miss these things! Happy to know it will work easily. Now if the electronic valves work, it will be even better. Thx!

We recently returned from a week-and-a-half-long trip through Glacier and Banff for my 50th Birthday. Farily last minute all 3 of my girls decided to join us on this trip. This created some logistical challenges we had to figure out. We got it all worked out but it left us with one night where no one had a place to stay except in the Ollie. That meant all 5 of us sleeping in the trailer! Who says it is just a couple's trailer, bring on the family camping 🙂 Not a great picture but had to share. The girls were great sports about it and we had a fun night hanging out and watching a movie. We ended up having a wonderful birthday trip through Glacier and Banff. It was our first time in Banff and it did not disappoint. An amazing hike up Avalanche Lake in Glacier. And then we got an amazing site in Banff Tunnel Mountain II Lake Louise did not disappoint either. We also had a great time talking with our neighbor, who was headed to Alaska in their EarthRoamer (pricey little machine)! Overall, an incredible way to celebrate a 50th birthday!

Thanks

Thanks Rich. I went with your suggestion. Amazon will deliver tomorrow and the install should take me 5-10 min since I believe the wire harness is the same. Hang new bracket and “plug-n-play!”

Cozy is an understatement! Making fun memories for sure. 😊 Glad your trip was a success. Really digging that Earth Roamer Beast 💯. - https://earthroamer.com/sx-explore/? 🤩

That's a good idea since we often camp far away from cellular reception. Yes, it's more expensive, but not terrible. And, @Steve Morris, it's good to know that your Trak-4 has been mostly reliable most of the time. This is going to be a difficult decision!

Great question. My SL Mini is tied to my account. If stolen it becomes a useless brick of no value. As the owner I can advise SL that it was stolen and they deactivate the account completely. After 48 days out west last fall, we never had a concern about our dish being stolen. When we leave our site to go XPLOR, we temporarily store it in our Oliver until we return and then redeploy. So far zero issues. The portability of the Mini is awesome, I will likely never permanently mount it for many reasons. If we are in a CG that I feel like I need to lock the Mini down with a cable, we have probably picked the wrong CG and will move on. We vet CG’s pretty hard when traveling and like gated SPs, and privately owned CG’s. Never had any issues with theft the entire time we have owned our Oliver. I always carry an extra cable lock, I find it much easier to just secure the dish in the Oliver if we leave.

I can say that some of those stops along the Oregon coast were spectacular when I visited them (bicycle camping) way back in 2009! Looks like a great trip!

Texas is not a boondocking state, unless you like Walmart. My preference out of SA going west is Balmoreah State Park past Ft. Stockton, then one of the Arizona state parks the next night. I've done a straight run to Arizona State Park for night one, but you have to enjoy 12 hour driving days. El Paso is 500 miles, slightly uphill and usually into the wind. Watch your gas levels. Even on I-10 it can be lonely out there..

I have several recommendations, having spent weeks in that region this year: North Rim of GCNP is very nice, less congested, less commercial and there are plenty of NF boondocking sites that are within reach. From the Kaibab NF near the North Rim, you can also take day trips to places like Vermillion Cliffs, White Pocket (if you have OHV or hire a guide with capability), "The Wave" (be aware that tickets are required in advance -- for many of these highly desirable locations) and other places. Kanab UT is a great central location for camping before heading to Zion, as there are many things to see and do in that area: Pipe Spring NM, Dinosaur Tracks, Coral Pink Sand Dunes SP (where you could camp if you want hookups), as well as day trips from Kanab to Zion, Bryce, Red Cliffs and other sites. St George is much larger, and in my opinion it isn't as walkable as a city, whereas Kanab is entirely walkable. If you stay in Kanab, they have farmers markets two days a week, a great library, some interesting museums, good groceries, free fresh water and a very friendly Post Office where you can receive mail General Delivery (not all USPS will do that). I concur with others on trekking poles; take at least one with you. Learn and understand about driving in sand. Understand how the weather impacts the "dirt" (sand) roads. Plan your timing accordingly. As Spring marches on, and the dry weather extends into early summer, the sand becomes more treacherous. One Park Ranger warned me about trying to drive through the western section of GCNP (the section that is southwest of Pipe Spring NM) because "it's so dry that it's easy to get stuck and it can cost you $3,000 to get towed out". Don't pull over on the side of the road unless it's paved or you know that it's going to support your vehicle. I saw many 4WD vehicles mired in the sand, in late May and the first week of June. One area where I walked, the sand would rise up over the tops of my shoes with each footstep. It was like quicksand, but thankfully not quicksand. Once the monsoons hit, I was told, some areas of sand turn into mud that can be equally treacherous. This condition depends on the area, of course. You might call USFS offices in the region and ask -- I found them very helpful on information. You might switch around the order of your itinerary, to plan the sandy places earlier in your trip. That's my two cents. Have fun!

Be careful in how you plan for fall in Montana. Understand seasons in this neck of the woods can come and go in nearly a split second, and what most people think of the autumn months can be the dead of winter compared to their normal view of this season. Lived here for nearly half a century and have seen temps plunge to sub zeros mid September when the day before it was in the 70-80's or more. Colors start turning much sooner than other states too, usually by mid September and all but shot by the 3rd week of October if not sooner normally. Elevation plays a key role in this. The Flathead Valley area as well as Glacier will usually have color lasting a bit longer due to the lower elevations at base but again there is no guarantees other than to expect rapidly changing weather patterns. Yellowstone elevations are much higher as well and thus tend to end sooner. Hope this helps.

Well....not yet. I was impressed that Mike Sharpe from Oliver Service sent me an email within hours of opening my service ticket. I sent him photos and then heard nothing back. Three weeks later I emailed him again and Mike responded that he had "sent this over to our manufacturing department to take a look into this." Then nothing for another 10 days and I emailed him again on Tuesday of this week. Mike responded with one sentence: "No response as of yet. I have reached back out to them." It's been over a month now.....so.....not too impressed anymore.... but hopeful that Oliver will make this right since it's clearly a manufacturing defect that should have been caught by both the supplier and Oliver installer. I've had to tape wood shims around the underside edge of the fiberglass lid to raise it and attempt to stop the damage. This is obviously not acceptable. If anyone has a suggestion on how to better communicate with Oliver Service, please let me know...?