Leaderboard

Just an FYI for anyone still with the old style Andersen WHD ball mounts with the exposed friction cone. I can't find the post (circa 2022?) that started me down this road (about horrible noise from a wet Andersen ball cone) but we encountered this after a night of rain during our last trip. It was still making noise after a week of dry weather. I did find a Service Bulletin from 2018. I called Andersen and was told I could replace the friction cone under warranty or I could upgrade to the newer style ball housing and triangle plate (whale tail). The price has increased but is still pretty reasonable compared to full price replacement purchasing the parts. The upgrade now costs $150 and includes the 2" Ball, Ball Housing, Triangle Plate, Friction Cone, Snap Ring, Pin and Clip. The 2 5/16" ball may be available also. Tony

Scott called me the other day about an unrelated matter but while we were on the phone I asked him about the vinyl decals. He stated that he was not exactly sure about the cost to the customer for the front Big “O” and the two rear sides. There was a time that they cut all their own vinyl lettering. Because of this we could usually get whatever we wanted as far as colors etc. As most of you probably already know, the person that did all the computer work for the graphics and ran the vinyl cutting machine has left and there is nobody there now that knows how to operate any of that system. For that reason, they are farming out all their graphic work. That is probably why the price is so high. It’s been several months since I was at the factory, but at that time back in the service department there was a huge pigeon hole type cabinet with the “O” graphics stacked inside in all different combinations of colors. There were the big ones and a smaller version that was only six inches across. I don’t know if that was new old stock. I would doubt Scott knew they were even back there. In additional news, for those of you that had met Jason Ballentine the service manager know now that he has left Oliver and they have a new service manager. His name is Randall Mayberry. They have a new lady (I don't recall her name) that is working behind the desk as you enter the showroom outer office. One of the former salesmen, Jason/Justin Lindsey/Lindley (you will note that I’m terrible with names) has returned and they now have a staff of three full time sales personnel.

We spend a great deal of time "off road" and have struggled with a reliable solution to protect the trailer from road rock damage. In our case with many miles using only mud flaps, the glass/ gelcoat at close inspection had the effect of a mild sandblasting. The PPF installers did not recommend installation due the surface being porous and not super smooth due to "road wear". We have been pleased with a somewhat radical solution; shooting the nose of our trailer with Vortex. We learned of the Vortext process from "Bugeyed driver". Our Vortext coating was applied recently but so far amazingly "bomb tough". We are now traveling on nasty fractured rocked/graveled roads stress free. This solution may not be for everyone but is a valid consideration if you spend a lot of time on gravel or your gelcoat is "road worn" and not longer super smooth. A further note on gravel protection: John Davies has a post on an under trailer mid flap to protect the under side and trailer running gear (socket, springs, axles and other) from gravel damage. We have found this to be effective and recommended if you spend time on gravel.

Bigger trailer, bigger truck. Though "technically " you'd be within the legal limits, your travel joy will be increased with a bigger, heavier truck. Dragging 7k up a mountain pass, one time, in your Colorado would likely tell the story. And, hopefully, a great brake controller coming down. Casita typically have a heavier tongue weight, but not as heavy as an O2. Your Colorado would likely be fine for my elite 1, but towing a 2, other than on flats and gradual ascents/descents, I'd want some more oomph, and vehicle weight. I know it's hard to think about trading up trailers, and vehicles at the same time. My 2005 Silverado is about the same size as a current Colorado, but heavier (6k). I have a similar tow rating. Id personally only tow a 2 in Florida flats. Id be nervous going our route to NC, at highway speed, and up green mountain gorge, with your TV. Your anxiety will be decreased, and travel joy and cargo capacity, will increase with a bigger vehicle.

Don, Take a look at the post "Norcold fridge hinge availibility issues." There are some alternate solutions and links to videos to install new hinges, which otherwise can be tricky. Also note that the IFiXiFi aftermarket hinges don't have the stop that prevents the door from opening greater than 90 degrees. Personally, I think that's a good thing because that's what caused mine to break in the first place. The IFiXiFi hinges have good springs that holds the door tightly closed. This Dometic hinge installation video was really helpful and it is simular to the Norcold design.

OK - below is the text that I received back from Mike Sharpe. Certainly appreciate his quick response! Bill "Hey Bill, Those fridges were discontinued a while back so the parts for it may even be hard to find. However, the boards would be the parts that I would look for. Regards," Mike Sharpe OLIVER SERVICE AND PARTS

It is very dangerous to put a cigar cutter in that drawer. Wife might find it and "accidentally" throw it away. Cigar cutters should be kept hidden under your socks. Just like at home.

Funny that GJ revived this thread today. Coincidence given this morning I had an auto-body/detailing professional come to our home and quote finishing our Oliver. Old hull #113 will again have a shine on her! 🤣 Scheduled for the week after next, I’ve been busy removing items like all the covers, furnace, HWH, fridge vents, outlets, awning lower mounts, etc. Everything possible to make for a better detail job. Doghouse and spare tire covers completely stripped down. I’ll post a new thread with pictures in a couple weeks! Almost forgot, I’ve also removed about 2 LBS of silicone caulk!!! (see driveway in first pic)! First time I restored a vehicle, every nut-n-bolt removed, was an Alfa Romeo Spyder, Spring of ‘78. This is the way I work! Tear everything, clean and condition each and every part. 😎 For 2 1/2 years we’ve just gotten our Oliver sun-baked and dirty, now time for some love! Thanks for posting John! 🤗

We have two 10Ah batteries. One will power the Starlink Mini all day! One's on the charger while the other is being used. The 50' power cable is supplied. We've just never had a need to use it, so recently I stopped bringing it along! I guess if your going to sit two weeks at a campground with hookups... But that's not us. I can setup the dish on a lunchbreak while traveling, in a minute with no cords. No thin 50' power cord getting wet and dirty, tangled up in the weeds, needing to be wound-up and stowed each time. Everything in our Oliver is battery-powered! 🤣

I also did the POE injector method for powering the Mini. As far as mounting I initially had it on top of my flagpole but the ended up being a problem with the cable and the flags getting bunched up. This is my current method for mounting on the Oliver. It has been working great so far. Links below. NEEWER Aluminum Mount Accessories Kit Compatible with Starklink Mini, Adjustable Roof Rack Super Clamp Mount, RV Ladder Pole Clamp Kit for Yacht Camper, Not for The Lastest Pipe Adapter, ST83+NA02 https://a.co/d/5qcuwb6 ZUOS 8" Glass Suction Cup Lifter, 560lbs Load Capacity, Green, Metal Handle & ABS Pump, Vacuum Glass Lifter https://a.co/d/ippF5gt