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I think Mike and Carol sum it up pretty well. You will always be fighting pay load and have marginal power with most 1/2 ton trucks. 3/4 ton and larger trucks tow effortlessly, give you payload headroom but make lousy daily drivers. We went from Toyota Tacoma to F250 6.7. We will never go back to a 1/2 ton for towing. Addtionally, It's hard not to love the power of diesel if it will fit your budget. Given a choice today, we would go with F350 for more payload capacity. We are not minimalist and bring along our toys.

Yes John those are the external dimensions. I don’t think you would be able to store the unit in the attic space without tilting it on its side. Ours stores very neatly and secure in the upright position under the forward dinette seat space, between the blade valve and the knee space fiberglass wall.

John, Under the rear street side bed right where the former Xantrex 2000 was installed by Oliver. A custom platform was added to secure the longer a heavier Victron Inverter/charger.

***Long Post*** XPLOR Hull #634 Victron 3000 watt inverter, Victron 12v DC to DC charger and Epoch lithium battery upgrade. Note: To discuss options and pricing, please contact Jordan Hall at Inverter Services, White House, Tenn. Our OEM AGM batteries were getting long in the tooth and it was time to upgrade our batteries to a complete lithium battery system on our 2020 Oliver LE2. Our good friend, and former Oliver owner Jim Posey, highly recommended we speak with Inverter Services in White House, Tennessee. I called and spoke with Service Manager Jordan Hall and discussed our needs and options. Jordan and his team at Inverter Services were excellent to work with and have a lot of experience working on Oliver travel trailers. Our tech/installer, Easton Ford, kept us updated on our install progress with photos and discussions as needed. We found Easton to be extremely detail-oriented and dialed in and focused on our project. We were originally scheduled to have this work done next March. After returning from our 54 day New England and Canada trip, I decided to call Inverter Services and ask if they had any cancellations. They did and we immediately took the cancellation. They are typically booked 6-7 months out. So we hitched op Oliver and headed to White House, Tenn to leave our Oliver with the team for 2 weeks. Important note: Inverter Services supports the RV and Marine industry in ALL things lithium battery and electronics. This is one of the most detailed and thorough, cutting-edge companies we have ever done business with. I chose Inverter Services to do this install because this is not my area of expertise and it absolutely is theirs. These guys are experts in their field and I admittedly am still in the learning process. Based on our excellent experience, we highly recommend Inverter Services in White House, Tenn if you are considering a lithium upgrade. We chose all Epoch & Victron following products for this install. (2) Epoch 300ah lithium batteries (internal heating elements) -https://www.epochbatteries.com/.../12v-300ah-heated... *Victron MultiPlus-II 3000w Inverter/charger *Victron GX 70 Touch Screen *Victron Smart Solar MPPT *Victron Orion XS DC-DC Battery Charger **We also had the RV Soft Start installed on our Truma Aventa AC. Inverter Services provides tech guidance/support/firmware updates as long as we own our Oliver. I cannot stress enough the pride this company takes in their work. As I think most would agree, Victron components are a class all their own and leaders in the Marine and RV industry. Post install, we have on board 600ah of lithium battery power, and with our extra 90W Zamp panel now configured to lithium, we have approx 410 watts of solar. This will certainly give us more options on the roads less traveled and boondocking. Still lots to learn on this new system. Now having the 12v DC -DC charger I don’t think we will see a need to carry a generator any longer. Thanks to all those on the forum who made the Lithium upgrade happen. ⚡️ The information gleaned here helped me decide the direction I wanted to take this install. ⚡️Happy Camping and Safe Travels! ⚡️ A few install pics- The Victron GX 70 touch screen fit the existing opening with no cutting or trimming of the fiberglass. Our system at a glance. The touch screen nice option if no cell service is available for the Victron app. Although with our SL mini that’s not an issue. Very happy with the touch screen and the Victron app. We can set the screen to time out at 5 or 10 min or longer and then go dark for sleep mode. Zamp 90W suitcase. 12v DC to DC Andersen connector. On our way home we camped at Cumberland Mountain SP in Tenn and gave our new system a shake down. It’s nice to not have to plug in. 😊

I heard from an inside source a couple of years ago that their Tech guy was doing relay mod. I have not checked back with them since. As far as adapting one to the Cielo, or just doing the two mods at RECPRO or having the factory do so WOULD for sure sell a LOT of units. GJ

SOLD on 11/21/25 on FB Market Place.

Completely agree with all of the above experience & recommendations. We have an Elite I (5,000 lb Gross) that's lighter than the Elite II that most folks tow. Our tow vehicle has been a 1/2 ton Silverado 1500 5.3L for 8 years. This combination does fine in the flatlands and rolling hills of the East, Southeast and the mid-West. The Rockies and similar mountain ranges of the West are another thing entirely. We're the vehicle going uphill at less than 45 mph in the right lane with the flashers on. Downhill the transmission really winds up (and heats up) trying to help the brakes keep our speed under control. With an Elite II, in the mountains, it would not feel safe/controlled. After our recent trip to Glacier NP and parts of Oregon, we finally upgraded to a 3/4 ton Silverado 2500HD with the 6.6L gas engine and 10-speed Allison transmission. Higher GVWR for camping gear, bigger engine, bigger brakes, more engine oil and transmission fluid cooling capability. Yes the diesel version would be the ultimate, particularly with its engine braking capability, but the purchase and maintenance costs are higher *and* in some locales out in the boondocks away from the interstate highways you can't always find diesel fuel when you need it... hence the gasser. We haven't been back to the Rockies with the larger truck yet, but in the northern NY Adirondack "mountains" (only hills compared to the Rockies) the 2500 is SOLID; you don't even notice our little Elite I behind us. As some have mentioned, its not the best choice for a daily driver in town with narrower roadways, tighter parking and more traffic.

Have they actually ever performed this mod at RecPro for anyone before? Still wondering if the Cielo thermostat could shut down the fan with the compressor on this unit like it does on the Atmos. They'd probably sell a lot more of the Houghton's if you could skip the mods and just add a thermostat to it.

Steve, glad to pass it forward. If you go with Inverter Services, I think you will be happy with their work. Jim Posey whom I think you have seen on the Oliver FB page referred me to this company. He has had a lot of work done by them on different RVs over the years and believes they are one of the best. I agree.

I can confirm this, having removed and replaced a bathroom window. Proper (and judicious) application of butyl rope compressed between exterior window frame and hull is what keeps water out. A THIN application of caulk is all that is needed at the outside edge of the window frame.

Thanks Bill, We will set a time up for you to come by for sure! 👍🏻

Very nice? How long did they have your trailer? We already have the lithium package, but at some point, I'd like to swap in the Victron inverter, Cerbo GX, and DC-DC system. Did you bring along the Truma soft start for them to install? I'm assuming they don't stock these.

I’ve towed my Elite II well over 100K miles since 2016. I towed with a Toyota Tacoma for 5 or 6,000 miles. I towed with two different Ram 1500’s (both 5.7L V8) for 50,000+ miles. I am currently towing with a Ram 2500 6.7L diesel, around 60K miles towing. Impressions: 2012 Tacoma (I-6, TRD Supercharger): maybe 200 miles per tank. Always looking for and stopping to fuel up. At or over load limit even with the smaller bed. 2016 Ram 1500, 2020 Ram Rebel (both 5.7L V8): Much more comfortable towing. Towing range much greater. Still aware of payload limit, but nothing like the Tacoma. Good tow vehicles. 2020 Ram 2500 (6.7L I-6 Cummins diesel): Am I towing? No worries about payload, towing range good. Engine brake does 90% of the braking when going downhill. Big diesel stays at less than 2,000 RPM most of the time, pretty effortless towing. My bottom line is that a half ton is a good TV and daily driver. Tacoma, Colorado, etc are marginal TV’s usually operating at the upper limit of their capacity, significantly reducing the margin for error. 3/4 ton and up are ideal, enough truck to stay well within limits and offering flexibility, safety and a very pleasant towing experience. Mike

Chris: Yep for sure. Gotta get the refrigerant oil down to the compressor where it will....... lubricate the compressor. On it's side of upside down, the compressor oil mixed with the refergerant will not be doing it's job in the compressor. Same thing is true for our desktop ice maker. The Amazon spec's post the unit size as: Can you confirm these meassurements? Can the unit be stored in the Attic for storage standing up? If yes, would attic removal tilt to get it out of storage likely result in an oil entrapment issue? Your thoughts? thanks GJ

I’m sure you know this, but will say it anyway. When I received the unit it had been repackaged and shipped from Amazon on its side, this was previously mentioned in this thread, set the unit upright for 24 hours before operation. I did not use rollers included with the unit, used 3M rubber pads that that also came with the unit.

It is very dangerous to put a cigar cutter in that drawer. Wife might find it and "accidentally" throw it away. Cigar cutters should be kept hidden under your socks. Just like at home.

We spend a great deal of time "off road" and have struggled with a reliable solution to protect the trailer from road rock damage. In our case with many miles using only mud flaps, the glass/ gelcoat at close inspection had the effect of a mild sandblasting. The PPF installers did not recommend installation due the surface being porous and not super smooth due to "road wear". We have been pleased with a somewhat radical solution; shooting the nose of our trailer with Vortex. We learned of the Vortext process from "Bugeyed driver". Our Vortext coating was applied recently but so far amazingly "bomb tough". We are now traveling on nasty fractured rocked/graveled roads stress free. This solution may not be for everyone but is a valid consideration if you spend a lot of time on gravel or your gelcoat is "road worn" and not longer super smooth. A further note on gravel protection: John Davies has a post on an under trailer mid flap to protect the under side and trailer running gear (socket, springs, axles and other) from gravel damage. We have found this to be effective and recommended if you spend time on gravel.

Checked several times to purchase the Airplus unit for Ollie only to find them Unavailable. Purchased a 21 pint KNKA unit on Amazon for $105, but looks like this unit went up to $144 on Amazon, Ebay has them for less. Tried this unit for 3 days in Ollie with outside humidity ranging from 50% in the afternoon to 90% before sunrise with outside temps ranging from low 40s to afternoon upper 60s. This unit removed about a quart of water daily. I dumped the tank daily, but it also has a drain hose that could be run into the kitchen sink or shower drain. Set the unit at 40% and it actually kept the inside humidity at 47% when the compressor shut off to 55% when the compressor turned back on. It has CSA certification. https://www.knkaonline.com/en-us/products/9927848493377

I would suggest a bigger bogger truck. 😊😊😊 Seriously, we have a GMC Canyon with a diesel engine. But we tow with our Silverado 3500HD diesel. Move up to a 2500 or 3500 and you’ll be set.

I second everything Tony says. I had an F150 with a 10,000 lb. towing capacity. I never had any issues with it. Early this year, I upgraded to an F350 and I must say pulling my Oliver is a much better experience with the F350, especially when going downhill.

Put the new side decals on. Looks like nice quality decals and went on easily. I clay bared the sides first, then hit them with a 3M 1 stage buffing compound, then wiped and cleaned it before measuring it out. Drew vertical lines about where the doors are below where it goes, then measured to the middle of the bond line and door. I came up with 8.5" down from the bond line and that was the center of my decal placement. $73.71

Me either!

So glad to know it performed well for you. I know these are hard to get as the supply is intermittent at best. If anyone else is considering buying one of these, you need to be diligent in watching for availability as they sell out quickly. As @Rolind said, they can be a real game changer, especially in high humidity cool temperature situations. They actually give off a fair amount of heat while running, which allows you to dry out the air in your Oliver and add just enough heat to not require the furnace and remain very comfortable.

Thanks to @Ollie-Haus and @Patriot for good advice on the dehumidifier. It arrived at the same time as the three days of tropical rain in Charleston. I was really a game changer, so much more comfortable inside the trailer.

OMG Ken, wow! I see you are from the beautiful land of 10,000 lakes, frigid temps half the year and a whole lotta street salt! (This is one reason why I started the thread, re listing your location.) Good addition though. I would not think that part to be so easy to source. When I used to restore old cars, before working on the paint (which I jobbed out), I would remove EVERY piece of trim. Now it appears I am in the restoration hobby again with an old Oliver! The 2nd pic is the rear of my '59 300E (owned it 1992-2010). All trim, all stainless, all chrome, everything was removed. Then it only cost me $200 (1996 dollars) to get the paint buffed/detailed, on a 10-year-old lacquer repaint. It did cost 1000s more to rework the stainless, chrome the bumpers, purchase NOS lenses, etc. and likely 1000 hours of sweat equity (don't have that energy anymore, half-day labor now vs. a 10-hour day was normal back then). When I get around to paying $$$$ to get the exterior fiberglass redone professionally, I will remove many trim pieces like this, so they can hit the whole panel with a buffing wheel. Until that day, ours will get duller as I collect parts like these, prioritizing jobs like a new AC unit. Check out the doghouse handle on your hull a 2018 vs. ours a 2016 life in the southwest! I will remove these handles for the finish work, use a light polishing wax and remount them.

A good reminder Ken and good scoop on the bezels. Sodium Chloride used on roads in the winter is just brutal on mostly all metals, and as you have pointed out some plastics. For this exact reason I avoid towing our Oliver anywhere in the winter where I know the roads are going to be treated. Those shiney new bezels will look great!

Problem: We've had our OTT for several months now, and still getting used to the "in's and out's" of the rig. One item that's been bugging us is that there wasn't a way to energize the water pump when occupying the head. WHAT? Background: So, the PO decided to remove the "cubby" shelf under the bathroom sink which housed the factory WP switch and LED and replaced it with a 2-dog marine-grade hatch to access space in the forward area under the sink for additional storage. I get that, 100%. However, they didn't (for unknown reasons) reposition the switch/LED before completing their mod. This was either an oversight, or running out of time, or outside their wheelhouse, or... whatever, it doesn't really matter. There's a modification project that's hatching here. After rooting around (with my vintage 6-foot frame) on the shower pan looking into the forward-most storage void, lo and behold, the WP switch AND LED wires were found wrapped-up and tucked away. The 5 wire-bundle of switch/LED circuits were fully intact and operational. Whew! Right? Fix: Ok! Let's figure out a logical placement of this, what we consider, a non-trivial feature to have working correctly in a proper RV head. I decided to reach out to a couple members for their thoughts (many thanks to JD and Geronimo John) - another huge benefit of the OTT Forum. Several ideas surfaced to include repositioning the switch/LED on the upper bath cabinet near the existing light switch or on the port side of the sink cabinet. We opted for the side of the sink cabinet. Below are some pix of the repositioning modification we knocked-out yesterday: 1. Carefully measured, marked, pilot-drilled, and drilled switch hole: 2. We chose the area below the TP Compartment because it would seem to give more "anti-water intrusion protection" than the space above the TP holder. 3. Measured, marked and drilled LED hole: 4. Used a couple drops of Gorilla Instant Glue for the LED mounting placement. After glue cured, applied clear silicone to provide additional water resistance: 5. Let there be light... The rubber-booted "marine-grade" switch should be fine in this environment and away from a direct shot from the shower head much like its original factory position in the upper area of the cubby shelf. We debated actually posting this to the Ollie-World because it would seem to us that it's a "one-of-a-kind" modification. However, if anyone else out there has a similar situation, hopefully this may be of help. At least for now, we'll no longer be stranded in the head during one of those middle of the night "needs" without being able to flush... Cheers!

The Houghton is a great unit that is rated for 122 degrees F. I recommend it based upon it's performance excellent design. However as of this date, the supplier's web site indicates that the manufacturer still has not addressed the need for a remote thermistor and relay to shut down the fan when the compressor shuts off. There are two published Mods that correct these topics and they work well. But are not recommended for most owners to attempt. Also doing so of course violates the 2-year warranty. As such, I recommend coordination with RecPro for them to accomplish Mods 1 and Mod 2 before delivery and to honor the 2-year warrant. You will need a thermistor with at least a 10-foot lead. See OTT Forum posts on this topic for more info. If they would do so, I believe their Houghton unit would be an outstanding unit for our OE2's. We have used ours for three seasons in temp's over 105 degrees in full sun. Zero problems. GJ