Leaderboard

One more thought on the subject. Understand that western snow is dry… normally. By that I mean it isn't usually the wet heavy icy stuff so prevalent back east or down south when they rarely get it. What this means is the driving conditions even with snow packed roads are a much different critter than wet ice packed roads. Not saying anyone shouldn't be cautious under these conditions but the differences in driving on dry snow roads is night and day different than back east… the vast majority of the time. It's not uncommon to be on the interstates with snow packed roads and people are still going 70+ MPH out here on the Montanabon. Wyoming is no different. All of the western states are very diligent about plowing too and what doesn't get scraped off either evaporates or melts in fairly short order. There will always be icy spots especially in the shade of cliffs, trees etc but it's truly amazing how fast the remnants after plowing evaporate even in cold temps. Just be cautious and take your time or grab a motel room for the night, or two

I just received my shocks, thanks @Galway Girl and I know @jd1923 has used these too I think I saw in another post. Can't wait to get started, but I have another rally in a week. LOL

Ouch! Things get worse... Battleborn Battery MELTED?! 🔥🔥New Problem!

"The other thing is ALL Oliver Owurchase is the LevelMatePRO" I agree. It's a great item to have. We once used it to find the most level pull through in a nearly vacant state park. Why not? I think we drove through ten sites and just found the most level one. It makes set up so easy. John

Got a whole 2" here in Prescott yesterday. Drove to pickleball on a neighborhood sideroad, down a 10% grade. I drove my truck like a baby (2WD TV not towing), about 5 MPH but only for a couple hundred yards until the road flattened out. I got a little used to it and was soon more relaxed. I'm past winter weather after leaving Chicago in 1999. Loosing my nerve and likely some skill. We find snow traveling with the Oliver, we'll be boondocking right there, waiting out the weather. During high school, we would practice how quickly we could slide through a snow-packed turn, handling the heavy 2WD cars of the day. I remember back in the 80s and 90s driving my 1967 Wildcat, trunk filled with tools and/or bags of water softening salt for rear-wheel drive weight, blasting down I-90 the Eisenhower Expressway at 70+ MPH in a BLIZZARD, not a worry in a young man's mind. That day is gone! But when it does snow here I try to get out some, so not to lose my winter driving skills. Our snow generally melts next day and this is just what's left today. Got down in the mid 20s last night, 36F now so some snow is surviving. All roads that see sun are back to bone dry.

Too bad they went cheap on the wheels! But 15" vs. 16" wheels is only an 1/2" height difference. But of course height is dependent on the tire profile. What is the tire profile on the 15s? We have LT225/75R16 tires on our trailer. A tire 1/2" taller in profile on 15s can equal the height on 16s! When upgrading wheels & tires, I use this app often to compare tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Concerning, for sure. My BB’s are 4 years old this month. I checked them last week and they look like they did when they were new. Nothing loose or discolored. We’ve done a lot of camping the last 4 years. From the videos it looks like there are design issues. I wonder if there is also a manufacturing QA issue. Why aren’t there widespread issues being reported from the many installed BB owners? Could there be a recent decline in manufacturing quality? Why hasn’t BB notified us of potential danger of using their batteries? I know there are quite a few Olivers with BB batteries, so this is quite troubling. Something about this whole thing feels a little off. Mike

Rob makes a good point, one that I see through my son who lives in Durango. He does not use chains or socks and doesn’t own any. He had business in Grand Junction for a couple of years that entailed driving there weekly from Durango up through Ouray on Hwy 550 (Million Dollar Highway). During winter they drive our grandson to hockey games in cities north of Durango (Telluride, Vail, GJ, Gunnison, Montrose, Steamboat and Denver). He’s got good tires on his Ram 2500 and has had no problems. I asked once if he thought I needed chains for our trips up to visit. He looked at the tires (Nokian snow rated) on my truck and said, nope! Mike

I have lived in Montana for almost half a century, never used or owned chains and don't plan to. I rarely ever see them on the road either other than 18 wheeler which are required to do so on mountain passes when the snow is heavy. Winter snow tires are the go to situation around here with the Bridgestone Blizzaks usually at the top or Michelin equivalents. Some people will still use studded tires but the only they offer for better performance over the previously mentioned is on black ice. However I have never used the snow tires for towing either though no doubt many have. Not sure I would trust those socks while towing. Just make sure you have a good set or all weather tires if nothing else that also performs well in snow. FWIW there has been very little snow this year so far. Even here in Bozeman where we always seem to be in some sort of polar vortex there is barely any in town. Not a good ski year from what I've heard.

First, I had never heard of snow socks. I did some research that you may find interesting as well. They seems like pretty good options. Compare different types

Thanks for the comments. I'm adding all to my "level" and "towing" mental database. I'm early in the game and each comment/recommendation/opinion make me peel the onion another layer. I am indeed riding on 15" wheels. The eye is quite discerning....looking reasonably level, is indeed critical.

Did you check out Rock Tamers? We have their net between the flaps to provide full coverage.

Cool App. thanks for the post. For a newer owner to complete, from my Ollie Keeper Info document, below is the tire info for the 2019 (16" rims) for half the info needed to see what the delta in height will be: Factory Tires: Michelin Defender LTX MS2, LT225/75R16 Light Truck 80 PSI 10 Ply Rated, 10-Ply E Rated, Speed Rating R (106 MPH) Use cold 40 PSI on Paved Roads. 25 - 30 PSI off road Load Index =115R Load Rating 2680# Max Press. Cold: 80 PSI. GJ

I'm with you on this line of thinking. Years of use without issues reported. Now there is an instance, one reported issue, only in test of a brand new battery. What we don't know is if BB changed their build process, or did a supplier in China change/cheapen the process in one one or more battery components?

Yes, D52 on the axle label means 5200 LB axles, the 5-bolt brake backing plate, 12" brakes, etc. Newer Olivers have D52 axles. Yours likely has 1750 LB springs and if so your label should say CAPACITY: 3500 LBS. My label is on custom ordered axles where OEM our trailer had 4-bolt D35 axles. Since Dexter new from Alcan that 2750 LB springs would be installed, my axles are labeled CAPACITY: 5200 LBS. Your upgrade should be leaf springs only when you want your Oliver towing more firmly down the highway!

Mike, Thanks - makes sense, stepped approach. Your history and that of others means I can plan this upgrade for awhile in the future. Periodic inspection of the leaf springs is now on my pre and post trip inspection list. I did find out (from another thread on this forum and the Dexter catalog) the D52 on my axle indicated 5200# capacity. The 6 lug hub configuration along with the 5 bolt backing plate confirms this as well......my upgrade just became quite simple. Sam

In a Big Way

@Tideline77 I forgot. I ordered them from 4 STATE TRUCKS. https://www.4statetrucks.com/

@Tideline77 It's above, but here it is again with current pricing. (edited): Ordered from 4 STATE TRUCKS https://www.4statetrucks.com/ Item: 19-050000007: Bulldog HD Shock Absorber Replaces 555001 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit As of January 2026: Qty 4 = $154.40, shipping to GA just over $14.

Would you share the cost and the online vendor and part number for us ADD folks ?

That would be a great combo, the best of both for sure! IMHO, either is better than an A/C unit that has the standard ON/OFF compressor. Why do these units take 3 minutes to kick in the compressor, BTW. The 9.5K Btu does not bother me and I've learned to ignore marketing hype, Marketing the second oldest profession! 🤣 I always thought that's all you need in the small cubic ft space of the Oliver, well insulated, with hard fiberglass walls keeping the cool inside. Regardless of Btu, it appears this unit pushes more cool air than most. I'm going to love the low settings and power reduction Gear settings. We don't camp in Yuma, nor Tampa or Houston in the Summer heat! I'm hoping to rarely exist in campgrounds! Yes, your rationale for quiet is true, but also it's about the huge internal fan operating at much lower speed. A fan turning faster will of course produce more noise. You can hear the difference in the Morton's video. May the Dometic Penguin II rest in peace forever! 😎

I upgraded to the beefier ALCAN springs and larger axles last year. That means I drove about 100K miles over 9 years with the smaller 3500lb axles and Dexter 4 leafs. That mileage includes some rough roads/off roads. I’d say you don’t need to rush to upgrade, do it when the timing/budget allows. My only exception might be if you are planning a trip to Alaska, the upgraded suspension might be a good idea. Mike

It would be nice if all the best features of the Chill Cube and Turbro could be combined into one unit! Love that the Cube has an actual variable speed blower motor instead of a 3 speed like the Turbro. I'm sure it's also quieter due to better internal ductwork located outside of the RV instead of in the inside cover like on the Turbro. Being able to lock in in 50% or 75% power is another biggie. Don't know why they rate the Cube at 18k though when it only puts out 9k-9.5K Btu's. That's a big difference from the 12.5K Btu's that Morton's testing showed on the Turbro. Hope that doesn't become an issue in the desert...

Here’s a pic of the HD wet bolts. Hopefully you also ordered the HD shackles. I had Alcan install the wet bolts with the grease zerks facing under our Oliver for easier access when greasing the zerks.

We watched the Morton's video again (with Chris) and she said "buy one!" So I did. I have not seen a review that does not report this is the most efficient and quietest RV A/C unit in the marketplace! I will install ours this weekend and hope to get a chance to test it some in Quartzsite! 😎 The standing height and no heat pump doesn't bother me at all. I think it has a cool shape and should look cute up on our Oliver! After reading what @CRM had to do with his Turbro, the fact that it's not very quiet, and what Turbro Support put me through, my broken unit will be sold for parts or junked. Lost my patience with it, where normally I would be first to repair it to save $$$. Here's another positive review and he's testing the Ducted unit. The Non-Ducted model is even more quiet and efficient. Can't wait!

Yes it does! And it is good you are taking the time to figure it all out. Traditional towing wisdom is that it is always best to have your trailer "level" (parallel to the ground) while towing. One can err a little having the front slightly low, but front higher than level is to be avoided for stability reasons. If you have a long flat surface to hitch up your TV and trailer, "level" just means that they are in plane with each other and the ground. You can measure the Oliver seam joint fore and aft to the ground (as you did) to see if they are equal (or check by measuring the frame to ground). Then check your TV to be sure it's not squatting in the rear. It should be sitting parallel to the ground as well. Trailer adjustments are made at the hitch, TV adjustments can be made by adding airbags or adjusting your WDH. Best to start getting your TV level. Just standing back and looking at the TV/trailer hooked up will tell you a lot. Just a caution that adding airbags to your TV does not increase your rated payload capacity! Make your trailer and TV so they are on parallel planes, that is the goal, with a slight nose down being acceptable if that is all you can tune into the system. It is never perfect, but getting it as close as you can goes a long ways to increasing your safety, and others around you on the road. Check out the Robert Pepper video. He has many videos on rigging and trailer setups that are extremely valuable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeEEC5eVNCk Good luck, Dave

I use an air compressor similar to the method JD posted. I’ve never used antifreeze. We do get below freezing a few times each winter and have had several days in single digits since we’ve been Oliver owners. When a serious freeze is forecasted I bring the trailer home and use a couple of electric heaters inside with the inner hulls open. No problems to date. I’d be a little more vigilant if we were in colder areas. We’ve been in the upper 70s since Christmas, but will probably get one or two freezes before spring.

Sam - WELCOME! It appears that you have already done a bunch more than many owners in researching, thinking, weighing, etc. and adjusting your hitch setup. As with a number of things regarding towing and RV there tend to be a number of different opinions and/or approaches to the subject. And, virtually no matter how you setup the rig, many of the factors that went into the setup depend on what the "current situation" just might be. But, as a starting point, leveling the tow vehicle and the trailer (as close as possible) is a good thing. Then as you load, unload, have different levels of fluid in your tanks, different amounts of food and drink, different amounts of cloths and related items, different selections of tools, etc. both the amount of weight and the distribution of that weight is likely to change. Also, the type of terrain that you will tow over will likely change - possibly even during one trip. Within reason, your initial setup would appear to cover the vast majority of circumstances. But, be prepared to make adjustments if you encounter off-road situations, very uneven and/or rough roads , or your weights in either the tow vehicle or the trailer change (i.e. you carry another couple of passengers with you, buy that really sweet big (and heavy) grill/fire pit, etc. Yes, I believe that the work you have put into your setup does matter and will make your towing experience safer and more pleasant. But, if you encounter the rough terrain I mention above and feel uncertain about it then it don't hesitate to temporarily loosen those Andersen chains in order to take some of the strain off the frame (but, if you do this, be sure to put them back to your "normal" setup after you have resumed your "normal" towing). Bill

Then fill your freshwater tank with clean water and either pump it into the gray tank and then dump or just drain it out onto the ground. That will wash out what small amount of AF that ended up in the fresh water tank. If you want to kill two birds with one stone, add some bleach to the first flush, let it sit for a few hours and then empty the fresh tank. That will sanitize it as well. I’d then flush it again.

What's not to like about the Colorado Rockies in the summertime? A number of Oliver owners have attended this enjoyable rally in the past and you're invited! The 2026 Rocky Mountain Fiberglass Rendezvous will be held at historic Camp Hale in the cool central Colorado Rocky Mountains from Sunday, August 2nd to Thursday, August 6th. Come one, come all! More information and the sign up is found at: www.RockyMtnFiberglassRendezvous.com. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Bill Schick, wwschick@gmail.com (2018 LE II, Hull #390)

Met up with Ken and Mary Kay in Montrose and we had a great time together! They had dinner ready for our for first night at Riverbend RV Park, considering our long day. Our second night we went to dinner at Ted Nelson’s Steakhouse! A couple days later we had another evening together at our next campsite, Basecamp550 between Ridgway and Ouray. We headed home slowly, other good camps along the way. They stayed another few days at Riverbend until their scheduled Alcan Service appointment.

I replied to someone on Facebook, I figure I would post here too for coverage. I use 13 points of interest to check before rolling out on a trip and anytime before I move the camper. Even if parked along in a shopping area. Just to ensure someone is not "mucking" with stuff. I don't always get "13", so I'll start again! LOL I've seen both Oliver and non-Oliver folks with twisted chains using Andersens. Very easy to correct by "flipping the wing" one direction or another.

Ron, Thanks for the post. It is a good reminder for all of us (especially single axle Elite owners) to use a TPMS system to monitor the pressure of our tires. Question: Did you have a metal valve stem? The centrifugal forces exerted on the valve stems by the mass of the monitor can result in over stressing a rubber valve stem, so metal stems are preferred with TPMS. So glad your system alerted you to the loss of pressure in time for you to safely get off the road. Pete

I use ours too. Mines an older 2500, not like the $100K super duty diesels some have. There is a difference. There is the 2500 and some are the 2500 HD which is really a 3500 in disguise! My owner's manual states to use a WDH when towing over 5K LBS. I tried it without after reading many comments here, and it is night and day in how it handles. Rich, I want your truck. 10-speed Allison OMG! I could coast up our mountains in that. Mine will have to do.

Like @jd1923 said, the truck model does not matter, and if you have a F150 it probably has a 2" hitch receiver. ***Important, do you know what size the bulldog coupler is on the EII that you're purchasing, probably 2", but it's also available with a 2 5/16" bulldog coupler (we have it)? You want to know that spec because the AWDH is also available with a 2" or 2 5/16" ball. BTW, we got our 2023 LEII with the 2 5/16 bulldog coupler and 2 5/16" AWDH with 2" receiver. We recently upgraded to a Chevvy 2500 with 2.5" receiver so I prchased a 2.5" stinger/shaft from Anderson for the AWDH. Yes, I know I don't need a WDH with the 2500 but I'm thinking I have it so why not use it!

Blacked-out is for kids, but when I had all this disassembled, we detailed the taillights, license plate surround and bumper covers and then all black trim on the TV! I degreased all parts, getting off all the sloppy car wax and rubbed them down with rubbing alcohol several times until the final paper towel was clean. Used Mothers Back-to-Black in the past, but it never really did the job. Recently, I purchased "Forever Black" and it works great, covering in deep black without brush marks: Amazon.com: Forever Black Bumper & Trim 6 Oz. (New Improved Formula & Larger Size) : Automotive Looks amazing for 23-year-old trim! Right?

Today was the day to prime the pump and filter. I have the tank so low that first thing was to buy a couple gallons to add to the tank. Bumped the starter a couple times which causes the fuel pump to run for about 20 seconds. The new Fleece pump groaned a bit to fill at first and then it's much quieter than the ringing sound of the OEM pump. I just loosened the nut on the return line of the VP44 (injection pump), a little fuel came out and that's all she needed. Started right up and sounded good. No leaks anywhere. Nice! First pic tells the final story. I had lift pump PSI from 8 PSI idling to 2 PSI with a heavy foot. Now I have a solid 14 PSI (top right corner of the display). I've only idled so far, hit the pedal while standing and still 14 PSI. Friday I will replace the bed and take her out for a drive!

More pics, a close-up and a full view --

Watched a few YouTube videos on this. Not too bad a job if you have a 4-post lift, and I have about every automotive tool, but not that. What a pain it would be working under the truck and it's not truly safe to have jack stands raised high enough to remove the fuel tank. Knowing this, we returned from Casa Grande and the Sonoran Desert NM with an empty tank. The trip computer states 8 miles DTE which makes Chris nervous, but we got home with just enough gas. I posted this on the Cummins Forum where one very knowledgeable senior member wrote that he installed the same Fleece kit. He did not pull the tank from the bottom; he removed the truck bed! OMG, which route is better? Took me less than a day to decide, I'm pulling the bed. The truck stays on all fours, I will not have to crane my neck, laying on the cold garage floor, etc. It's amazing how easy it is to remove a truck bed, this being my first experience doing this. Remove the taillights and make sure all frame-mounted wire ties are disconnected. You do not have to remove the rear bumper (only 6 bolts), but it is safer unless you can lift the bed straight up. The bed is attached to the frame, 8 bolts on my long bed and 6 bolts on a short bed. The real trick is how to hoist the bed. The senior member mentioned used a gantry and hoist. A basic gantry costs $800 and could not find one to rent locally. I figured I could buy two inexpensive chain hoists to do the job, but the only location strong enough to mount the hoists, was to the header of my garage door. Then the bed would be hanging half-in and out of the garage. It was truly scary driving my truck out from under the bed, but son Adam was guiding the rear end while Chris was keeping an eye on the underside! I was determined to get the bed fully in the garage stall as we are in the SW windy season now. It's crazy how recently we use our side-by-side more for home projects than for enjoying the AZ dirt trails! The bed will sit just like this until the install is completed.

Yep - saw that, but, thanks for pointing it out. 👍

The tite say San Antonio

As most everyone knows, the blinds hang on two tabs at the top and snap onto two brackets on the bottom. To take them down, pull out sharply at the bottom and then lift the whole frame off the two top hangers. (Later Edit...some have the same snap in brackets top and bottom, but you still just pull them off, If you don't know which you have, pull the bottom off first to allow you to check) If you’re traveling on a bumpy enough road the bottom will eventually pop loose from the bottom brackets and then it’s only a matter of time before the top will jump off the hangers. The best way I’ve found to prevent this is to take the blinds down, squirt some adhesive caulk on the two surfaces of each bottom bracket and re-install the blind. Once the caulk sets up, they’re unlikely to come loose accidentally. But, they can still be removed as described above albeit a little more difficult at the bottom.

The Oliver can be a very good off-road, rough-road or boondocking trailer. But there are different kinds of rough roads. Steep rocky trails are fine if traveled very slowly because the Oliver has good clearance, is narrow and is not too heavy. I towed mine as far back in as my Ram 3500 would pull it, with all four wheels clawing for traction. Never a problem. But on higher speed dirt, with washboard, the suspension struggles and the interior suffers. I had my window coverings fall off, cabinets open and the microwave try to escape from its alcove, repeatedly. Lowering tire pressure to about 25 lbs seems to really help, but the vibration should be avoided. Hard suspension hits at speed are also a no-no. With only about 2" of suspension travel, metal to metal stops, and minimal shocks, the pounding can be brutal. Just take it slow, pick your path and don't be afraid to venture off the highway. The best camp spots are out there beyond where trailers usually go.

Ray's been driving Airstream's all over the west - and is now out there in an Oliver. He feels its a fine boon-docking trailer. I don't see any reason - given a good tow vehicle with 4wd - why you can't get an Oliver into many backcountry places. Clearance is fine and the suspension - while not up to trailers engineered for off roading - seems to be strong. I should find out pretty soon actually 🙂

BTW, our Olivers look way better than the silver-looking stuff in the first photo.

What you cannot tell from the picture is what was the road up, to get to the campsite pictured. I may have a rivet loose too, but I prefer climbing a steep dirt road, than driving a rig 75 MPH, the speed limit, on our terribly maintained I-40 in Arizona!!! Maybe it's the old biker in me, dirt-riding these trails for years, but who knows. Looks like they found a level spot. My spot pictured, was quite a climb. Once your parked and level, all's good. Finding a level spot, priceless!

I blew up your beautiful photo, looking for wheel chocks. 🙃 Me, no. I wouldn't bother anymore. My husband would probably disagree. He loves the challenges. To drive that type of "scenic " highway, sometimes it's wiser to leave the camper in a secure park, and enjoy the ride from our 4x4 truck windows.

I bought a DOMETIC CFX3 75-Liter Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator and Freezer about three years ago. It has been used on every trip we’ve been on since then. When not traveling, it comes into the house and provides additional cooling and freezing space. As a result, it has essentially run constantly since we purchased it. At home it is plugged into the wall but in the truck it runs on solar augmented 12 volt DC off its own separate battery. We have also successfully run it on a 500 watt Jackery. It has been absolutely bulletproof and I can wholeheartedly recommend it. It easily and dependably maintains the temperature you set down to at least -10 degrees F. Ice cream will remain rock solid. This model is slightly above your stated price range but I shopped around and found it under $1K with free shipping.

On average, a fully loaded Elite II will weigh in at 6000 pounds or more. Personally, I'd consider a 6600 pound towing capacity extremely marginal. Plus, your cargo carrying capacity would be very limited as the tongue weight of the Oliver will be about 600 pounds. All that said, it would easily handle the weight of the Elite and be a reasonably good tow vehicle for it. Many owners are towing with a 2500 3/4 ton diesel vehicle. Some are even using 3500 1 ton vehicle. At the end of the day, you're gonna need a bigger truck for an Elite II.

It's been several years ago so a bit foggy. But I recall that our blinds were a bit defective and OTT sent us some new ones with clips. I reused the old four clips and added two extra for grins. Put the other two in my "Junk and Precious Stuff drawer in the kitchen. Six clips ended my falling blinds syndone. GJ