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It's not as difficult as it looks, I would replace them all so you have the same size/age cords in that shade.

We have done the restringing thing a couple of times. Both times were real bonding experiences! Mike

We have both street side shades have strings break. The shades still work, though at a slight angle. I reached out to Oliver and plan on having both frames and shades replaced later this year or 2/27. Oliver said replacement would be no problem. We have ZERO desire to re-string them ourselves. "We would like to stay married".🤣

I only have 1 day before I depart for the Eggs & S'Mores rally in FL. No time to install springs with the need to work today. oh well. The UPS guy, who was quite large, carried both 50 lb boxes of Alcan springs in a bear-hug style. I was impressed. I'm ready with some awesome new tools.

Yes, it is possible for you to only restring one side. But, if one broke then I'd guess that the other side is not far behind. Besides, since you have to basically take the frame apart to do one side, you might as well go ahead and do the other side while you are there. Basically what I'm saying is the very same thing that rideandfly said above. Bill

Gotta love ya, my friend GJ! Next time you're on the mainland, please come to Prescott and together we'll get ol' hull #342 in better shape! 🤣 OK, so as you would, one point at a time... Actually, keep this one your wish list, as the wired thermostat interface is ONLY available on the ducted version which is not optional for our Olivers. My hypothesis: Out here in the SW there would little to NO condensate drip, but some in humid climates. Agreed, but... Looking at the specs I see a 3.25" difference (14.5" - 11.25"). It would be 5" to your low-profile Houghton. I promised @Tideline77 measurements which I took yesterday. My son Adam climbed up the scaffolding and place an 8' 1x3" on top of the A/C unit hanging off to the curbside. I measured the height and did not believe the number, so I measured it in the same way off the streetside, same number! I measured exactly 9' 8.5" on BOTH sides! Let's call it 9' 9" to top of the Chill Cube A/C on hull #113. OTT advertises the Oliver to be 9' 8" top of A/C! How is that? I put an A/C at least 3" taller than OEM! Crazy if this could fit in a garage with a 10 ft door. Chris said, "Who cares how tall it is? It's quiet! 😂 I would think you could simply hose from the rear. The dirt/gunk would fall out into the condensate trough and you would have to remove the cover and hose out the condensate path completely. Two-level scaffolding helps! 😎 All RV A/c manufacturers over-state specs. The Oliver is such a small, well insulated space with an inner hull that does not easily absorb heat. We'll be fine! 😎 I'll measure and provide real numbers this summer! But any Inverter or variable speed system will take near half the power consumption of standard compressor systems, no need for any kind of Soft-Start device. Yes, we like to camp in this range! The Chill Cube also has a Gear feature to gear power down to 75% or 50%! If your worried about high BTU fast cooling OK, but being able to run A/C conservatively, on inverted battery power, for a good amount of time is more our plan. We now have 900 Ah, and with summer temps I'd like to know how much cooling we get per Ah. Would 180 Ah (20% SOC) be enough to keep the Oliver Cabin comfortable all afternoon? If so, we could do that for 3 days knowing on day 4 we'd tow to DC-DC charge or stay a night at a campground and charge back up to 900 Ah! 😎

I agree with most of this, though I think the efficiency and low BTU's provided in the low setting is actually a needed feature not found in any other unit I'm aware of. At cooler temps with high humidity this unit could act more like a dehumidifier than an AC unit and keep the cabin comfortable without having to drop the temps lower than desired to keep humidity in check. The Turbro invertor unit that I have can only ramp down to 7500 Btu's, which is lower than any unit other than the Chill Cube that I'm aware of, and in my experience this is not low enough to control humidity in low temp situations without dropping cabin temps into the low 60's or even high 50's. I also think having a thermistor in the remote is a HUGE feature. When set to "follow me" the remote will sample the temps at the remote itself every 3 minutes and override the internal thermistor. Think about all of us who have gone down the mod route to overcome this issue and void our warrantees. I do worry about the low Btu's tested by Morton though... My last AC unit was in this same Btu range and performed well in the high 90's with high humidity but it could take a couple of hours to get there and I'm not so sure the Chill Cube will be acceptable in higher temps in direct sun with low humidity. Time will tell and I hope it can handle it. Maybe his Btu testing was off? I still think it's the best AC option at the moment for those not requiring a heat pump function, and for those not wanting to mod their units.

Yep. It is sweet for sure. As stated. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ YES! As stated in our combined list of limitations (Not needing a Heat Pump, Height and Very High Temperatures), I agree. In fact I'll take it a step further. Within those limitations, I would also state "Even for those willing and able to modify the Houghtons", this is a great unit to strongly consider." Then to take it a step further I would add "And at a much more realistic cost!" +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ JD: As far as using a hose to spray thru the condenser coil to try to flow the gunk out the weeps.... You can try it. But it certainly is not effective in all of the places I have lived and maintained. That is why the vast majority of outside coils use an updraft design. It leaves the gunk on the outside of the coils where it can be gently cleaned. General design rule is to provide the Technicians access to both sides of both coils. This is esssential for proper maintenance.... that is necessary to maintain the unit's efficiency. So I stand firm that it is at least a NI, and for a most a PP. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I agree. Though it's not on our trailer, we have the Chill Cube installed on our Pleasure-Way Excel, a 20' class B which has interior volume similar to our LE2. A small amount of condensate does run off the back of the van, but not nearly as much as it did with the 13.5k BTU Coleman Mach that it replaced. The PW van isn't as well insulated as an LE2, and it probably has a lot more heat gain than an Oliver due to the windshield. In the Texas summer heat, it has maintained cool and comfortable temperatures in our van far better than the Coleman, and it's much quieter. I think Furrion markets the Chill Cube as 18K because it works better than some other brands that have higher labeled BTU ratings. If they marketed it as a 9k BTU unit, then it would likely be overlooked by many, considering it as being too small. Knowing what we do now, if this AC had been available two years ago then it would have been a no brainer alternative to the expensive Truma upgrade.

I'd be willing to bet that once you hear the price you WILL have all the motivation that you need. As (I believe) Mike said - this is really not a hard project. But, it is a bit tedious and requires that you really pay attention to what you are doing. Bill

I had to take one of my pins off the ring, put it on the workbench, and I used WD-40 over and over again to work it into the pin, standing up on end (locking-balls) facing down, and worked the button until it would stay freed up. I kept flushing it until about 40 gallons of rust came out of the pin and I saw clear WD-40 flowing. I then used to dry lube and worked it into the pin, constantly pushing the button to work it through. That was 2 or 3 years ago and that stubborn button pin has been fine since. Might be one of those annual things-to-do to put on the list, that I don't have yet. LOL

Although there are varied recommendations among LFP makers, in general it is not good to maintain 100% SOC for extended periods of time in storage; extended meaning three months + with no demand. In this instance, isolating the batteries and storing at 50% SOC seems an acceptable practice. Personally, I continually maintain 100% SOC year-round given the fact that I routinely go to the Cow Barn to check on things and make it a practice to exercise the LFPs. During summer visits the air conditioner is ran off the batteries and likewise that unit’s heat pump during cooler weather; cycling the battery bank in this manner is good ‘care and feeding’! I’m fortunate to have enclosed storage with electricity, which is adventitious in this battery management scheme. That said, my COW is turned out often and thus, rarely sees ‘extended’ periods of nonuse; always ready to search greener pastures!

No no, I'm good. I now have all the tools I need to make job easy, and, fingers crossed, no more than say.... three hours?! Will be my second set to install, and shocks are already in, saving a few minutes. Brake wires are good now. Sooooo, we'll see. Neuhaus might come down to help too. I told him I'll take him to my daughter's Italian restaurant. I sort of get a discount there. LOL

I'm not sure how useful this would be to others. I got tired of typing into google site:https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/ "some search term". This little html file works fantastic, but I had my Claude.AI create a page I could keep on my local computer, maybe on the desktop, where I can simply type in my search term and all the results only come from the forums pages, but via Google Results. Try it out. It's a single HTML document. Download it and type in something you wish to search for in these forums. I use Claude AI for work and find it to be the best in coding. oliver-forum-search.html

It is not difficult. Go slow, be methodical and you’ll do fine.

Ok, you asked for it! 🙂 As a ME, there is a lot to like about this unit. And just a few things to wish for. But the two I identified above are not one of them. In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat. The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side. That is close enough to strike out that wish item. Now for my video take away notes: (G = Good, NI = Not Ideal, PP = Potential Problem for some owners) PP Some owners have height restrictions. This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic Houghton. A hard deal killer for some owners for sure. Also it will have a greater challenge with wind drag at highway speeds and lower hanging limbs and bridges. But if you follow an 18 wheeler box trailer, they will clear all that out of your way. G Dual fans G Squirrel cage supply air fan G All copper coils and tubing G Brushless motors G Cap tube control system. EXCELLENT. G Shroud not necessary to test run the unit. Nice for those doing maintenance. NI Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing. Not so good for maintenance. PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common. NI Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors. But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling. Good at high settings. NI Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337 watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts. This is still better than what non variable speed units can do and is low enough that most quality 2,000 watt generators can accommodate for this unit as it has a near zero surge on start-up or compressor cycling. G The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply. In fact, they are OUTSTANDING PP The unit on max setting only produces 9,000 BUT of a/c. On a max sun, 100+ degree F Day where we often camp, that low output will take more time to cool down an OE2. Would suggest starting the unit on max an hour before arriving at your camp site. Your spousal unit will appreciate you're thinking ahead. If an owner does not have a problem with that 14" height and does not camp in extreme heat and sun locations, I think that this tested unit is an excellent choice. But as exterior temp increases beyond what 9,000 BTU can handle it would be a challenge. For many owners just starting the cool down before occupancy, it would mitigate the lower capacity. With a larger compressor and minor mods to increase the capability it would become an outstanding choice even for me! GJ

That's OK - I know where there might be a couple more. Besides, those note cards also were gone over a year ago! Bill

Let's see if I can upload the short video of my proof of concept. I've spent more time on this video than I did creating the indexer. LOL oliver-specific-document-index-tool-v005.mp4

That will be two dinners after we install new axles on #110 at half price! 🤣

@jd1923 when I'm near Arizona next, I'm taking you out for dinner.

Exactly what I have done! 🤣

He’s just a young man, not the battery-god! 🤣 I think making a LiFePO4 investment is important and without internal heaters you’ll be doing work-arounds for as long as you use them, disconnecting them, heat blankets or something. Do it once, do it right! We live in a moderate climate, but over the last few nights with lows to 20F, at 8AM the Ruuvi in our basement at the rear wall measured 27F and the Epoch BMS kept all out battery cells right at 36F. I prefer knowing we can travel any day, at any temp, and use and charge our batteries! 😎 $500 vs. $1200 per 300 Ah is a huge difference though. When we bought our “Essentials” I don’t believe there was an Eco Series available. We purchased Essentails since they were lower cost vs. the Elite Series.

OK, Tali and I restrung the shade with the broken string this evening. Not the most enjoyable task we've ever done but it beats a sharp stick in your eye. A little complicated until you've done it a couple of times but once you "see" how it works it's really not too bad. I had to partially disassemble another one to see how much tension to put on the strings. I'll be happy to restring one for anybody for only $500.00 string included.

I paid about $400 for the dinette window frame and shade last year. John