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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2018 in all areas

  1. John, I know you've not been within the Oliver fold for very long so you don't know the whole story. Perhaps a little history is in order. The name "Legacy" has nothing to do with the fact that our trailers will be here long after we've passed on and gone to our reward. It was chosen by the Oliver family to honor one of their own. You see, Jim Oliver, the patriarch of the Oliver Clan and Oliver Technologies Inc. which includes Oliver Travel Trailers had a twin brother - John Oliver. It was in the mid 2000's when these two men envisioned building a better molded fiberglass travel trailer than all the others that were available. Unfortunately, John passed away before that dream could come be realized but Jim carried it to fruition, and it is John's picture on horseback that adorns the front of the very first Oliver that was built. So, it was to John's "legacy" that our trailers are dedicated and I feel sure there was no deception intended.
    4 points
  2. Update#3: Running completely off the fresh water tank for the next few weeks. I will update when I get hooked back up to city water connection. In the meantime, you fellas with these random bones of contention, please take your discussion elsewhere. This is a serious thread meant to help me and any others who might have the same problem sometime. You will run the good people off. I love my trailer, I love the Oliver company, and they have already proven to me that they stand behind their product. Nothing is perfect. I need to learn all I can about taking care of what I can. I appreciate any help I can get.
    3 points
  3. Ditto to what John Davies said - ours (delivered in Feb this year) had the wrong fuse and it blew during the first week/trip out. Other challenges (in addition to changing the fuse) and lessons learned for us are: Storage when not in use - we initially stored the trailer with the fan running and the compost material (not emptied) was drying out too much and moisture is a requirement. We now unplug the fan when it is stored and I will check and add water every other week or so (as required) in an attempt to keep the compost at the proper consistency - working better. Bugs - another problem with the drying out compost is it attracts bugs (like gnats & a lot of them). In addition to that problem I learned that the exhaust vent on the Oliver does not have an insect screen that Nature's Head recommends. This allowed the bugs to enter the toilet via the exhaust hose. After getting rid of the bugs by emptying and cleaning, I took the exhaust hose off at the toilet and covered the opening with a layer of panty hose in order to form a screen and then reattached the hose. No problems with bugs since the screen and keeping the moisture level right with the composting material. Good luck!
    2 points
  4. Could you use your pvc fresh water chlorine injector on the black tank flush line and inject the mineral oil into the black tank?
    1 point
  5. John, Low range with the center diff unlocked seems perfectly sensible to me. A higher RPM will allow the engine and tranny to cool well, or possibly generate less tranny heat, and the engine can be right up in it's max torque range. If possible it would be good if the torque converter was locked to make less heat. An automatic trans should never overheat with the torque converter locked. You could even do it with the center diff locked, if you had to for traction, but it would add more stress and tire wear. I really like that you have a button to lock or unlock the center diff in either low or high range. Cool. Two wheel low is a cool mod that works well on older Dodge Cummins trucks with the auto trans. This is because the first gear in the tranny is pretty high and the transfer case is only 1.98 to 1 in low. With 2wd low much less heat is developed in the tranny and more precise maneuvering can be done. The torque through one axle is not a problem, especially with the auto trans.
    1 point
  6. My LE II hull number 351 was delivered this past June. Mine also came with a 1 Amp fuse installed for the composting toilet. Luckily it hasn’t blown yet. None of the local stores have them in stock. As John shared someplace, they’ll need to be ordered. Of more concern was the electrical power connector for the Natures Head ventilation fan was forced together backwards. Though the connector is keyed to maintain polarity, someone with enough determination forced it together backward. Result? The fan ran backwards. Luckily I checked to make sure it was working correctly before puttting the toilet into service and was able to make a serviceable repair in the field myself. Insects have been a problem with mine too. I now realize they probably came in through the vent. In addition to the infected compost bin, the clear vent hose had dozens/hundreds of dead insect bodies laying in the bottom. I was able to disconnect everything and shake them out during the disinfection process. I’m adding a filter to the EXHAUST side. I mistakenly originally added one to the intake side. While disinfecting the bug infestation I saw that the intake side comes with a very thin foam filter installed. My mistake. I knew that I read someplace that an air filter was missing. Now I know that it’s missing on the exhaust side. Even with the initial teething issues, I’m willing to put up with it to avoid the dump station and the ability to stretch out the available on board water supply.
    1 point
  7. The blade type fuse is locateed in the fuse box under the dinette table. Mine was the only one there that was NOT labelled, all the other ones were labelled. It was originally 1 amp and was blown after the first day. I changed it to a 2.5 amp one, as specified by Natures Head, and it has been fine ever since. Make sure the metal ears are grabbing the fuse prongs hard, or there may be an intermittent connection. This is a VERY common problem with this cheap, poorly designed fuse box. You can check your fan by removing it, there are two philips screws at the hose outlet, and make sure it is spinning and clear of debris. If the fan is not operating, the toilet will never operate better than a five gallon bucket. It has to ventilate to convert the bacteria from anaerobic (stinky) to aerobic (not stinky). Good luck, this is not rocket science. Ask a friend to help if you can’t figure it out. Get that fan running! Even with mild tinnutus I can hear mine running if there are no other noises. I put my hand over the inlet opening once daily as I enter the bathroom, to feel the airflow. It is very small, but you can feel it. If your fuse is the wrong size, please file a service request so the factory will be alerted and hopefully change their ways.... there really is no excuse for installing the wrong one. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  8. Telesteps ladder. Amazon has them. Beware of the “other brands” that may fail or are flimsy. The model that I purchased was the OSHA approved model that has a higher weight rating and seems to be a little stronger.
    1 point
  9. Foy, I (and I’m sure my well meaning friends) need to apologize to you for blatantly hi jacking your thread. I actually have no idea where the washer could have come from. Without a spare nut to go with it, I probably wouldn’t worry too much. When we all start back to school this fall in the ninth grade maybe we can learn how to behave.
    1 point
  10. At factorty for pickup with Phil Andrews. Check spare tire cover washer. If not that then check bike rack if you have one. - Randy
    1 point
  11. That looks like a washer from the right side sprocket on the mucket mill transducer located just aft of the Gbic expansion module on the port side. You'll need a metric left handed wind-up wrench to properly reinstall it. Make sure the back side of the washer is facing out and don't over tighten the retaining ring.
    1 point
  12. I think this has got to be the best $5 mod that you can do!
    1 point
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