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The holding tanks seem, to me, to be configured the same way that most of the industry is. The one labeled black is for the black tank, and the one labled gray is for the gray tank. Whether it is on the left or right matters not. The one thing that one should never do is get complacent around any dump station. As Jud Clampet said that is no place to see "bubbling crude", but probably it has happened there.. It is not the place to be adding fresh water to your tanks, or have any fresh water hoses laying around. A lot of those faucets do NOT have backflow preventors on them either. I have seen some untrained volunteers doing some strange things around there, so be careful and keep your eyes open. Also have seen a camper have her bare foot child standing on the dump drain, as she was rinsed off with the black tank rinse hose. Hopefully the " chunks" on the drain came off the child...

I go down to the camper in the winter. Turn on the heater, turn on lights, turn on the tv, maybe watch a movie. The solar has snow and ice on it. Usually around 13.4 on the meter when I leave. The sad part is when I forget to turn off a light. Now get dressed again, after dark of course, find a flashlight, wade through fresh fallen snow. Only to find out it wasn't a light after all, it was just a reflection of the moon on a window. Just like camping.

As an experiment I have not plugged in our Oliver since bringing it home, while at home. That was 2017. I have plugged in at CG to run electric element in water heater and the AC heat strip, but not at home. The solar has kept me charged with ice and snow on it. The only caution I have taken is to make sure the batteries are topped off with distilled water at the end of the season, and again at wake up...

Lol...I have the Shoe Goo too. Funny, but when you think about it. Here I am, carrying around stuff to fix an old pair of favorite $30 sneakers (sorry, hiking shoes), in a $60k + camper, when maybe I should have gotten a new pair? But they have packaged the stuff in such a new small tube, and you never know when you might need it. And toothpicks to spread it with...

A 50 amp plug has: a ground, a neutral, and two 120 v lines. A 30 amp plug has: A ground, A neutral, and one 120 v line. The adapter has eliminated one 120 v line, just what the Oliver was designed for. If you was to see the inside of the electrical box that has a 50 amp, 30 amp, and a 20 amp plug, you would only see 4 wires coming in to feed them. That wire carries all the power to the box. There is NOT a separate circuit for each outlet. That box is also only designed to feed ONE camper at a time. If you see a CG with only one plug in the box, it is either an older CG with older equipment, or a CG that is trying to eliminate people plugging into more than one plug at a time and overloading the circuit.

Welcome. See you on the back roads of America. Pack some referral cards in the trailer and tow vehicle, you will soon see why.

Welcome Steven. Remember the anticipation is part of the Journey. Where is home? And where do you plan to travel?

We travel the in freezing weather. Just to be safe we leave the unit in winterized state. We have a case of drinkable water that we keep in the heated tow vehicle. When the Oliver is heated the water is moved in there. We use antifreeze to flush if needed. Once we are in a clime where we are comfortable that freezing weather is over, we de-winterize and flush. With 30 lb bottles of propane we are pretty sure we won't run out during the night, but no guarantee something else won't happen. And we do NOT run with the heater on, though we know some do...

It was the first one. Think it was around $7, but I might have paid shipping. Really thought the second one had a better mechanical advantage, but the 'frugal' me didn't want to spend the extra on an unknown application. As it turns out the first one is great. Was going to use a static vent on the inside, but the holes didn't line up. The static vent would work fine, as I find I never need to close. The vent also works well when using the bathroom exhaust vent and the window is closed.

It was a one off. Hole saw from Harbor Freight. And some vent covers. About a half hour job.

Don't forget the folding dish rack, that will fit in a drawer.

We found a cutting board will fit on the drawer, which adds some counter space. Also gives a space to put a hot pot that won't burn a fiberglass counter

Think the water pump has a low pressure setup..30..35 psi maybe? Not sure?. We have always blown out twice. First blow moves most of the water out. I wait for a while as I blow out hoses and filter containers. The second blow gets any droplets that slide back to low spots. The anti freeze gets any atomized droplets and makes me feel better. The antifreeze also runs into the traps which helps those and it also helps lubricate and seal toilet gasket.

The toilet valve in question is the one going into the standard toilet itself. That is the one that allows the water to enter the toilet. It is mounted just in behind the foot pedal on the right.

What a great idea. Each owner could get a bunch of coins made. Meet another owner and we could swap a coin. The idea would be to collect all 672 (or 762) coins. Maybe mount them on a map? Where found? Wonder where that coin was made?

The "better" stuff is $2.99 at Tractor Supply. Same stuff is $4.99 to $6.99 at Home Depot and Lowes.

We do both methods. We NEVER put air on the pump inlet though. After blow out we put the water heater to bypass. After flushing in the Spring we do sanitize the tank and lines. And flush again. Whole process takes another 30 minutes? Toilet valve is in excess of $60.00, so is it worth the 15 minutes and extra risk?

We have a red Coke tray and a milk crate that we use for deep in the 'basement'. As we learned from boating days, you tie a string to the crates. They are easy to push in, but the string helps to pull out. Also we have learned (through trial and error) that seldom used "stuff" goes to the back. That means anything associated with water, electric, or tools are near the door. Anything water goes in a Reny's tote with the cover removed. I do have a couple extra red trays if you need or want. Banana Banners have been great to work with. Remember the anticipation is part of the journey. Enjoy...

Members 0 2 posts Posted 12 hours ago Has anyone figured out an EASY way to attach a 2 inch receiver to the rear bumper to attach a bike rack. The 1.25 inch receiver is useless. Especially if you want to carry ebike Hopefully one considers how one loads up the rear of the camper. Extra weight back there can unload tounge weight, which can greatly effect handling. It can effect both the trailer and tow vehicle handling.

As we are hull #211 we must be 'ancient'. But with the shine on it as if it was new. I like the term vintage better.

Congrats. Exciting time. Did you get a unique front design yet?

I requested from Service some of the stickers that the are putting on the new units. Jason told me where to place them. Basically they point to the metal frame for lifting points. Basically I think the placement would depend on the unit and year model. A quick check with Service would confirm placement. A great item that might save the frame if you weren't present during a lift?

762? Or 672??

Hi and Welcome, Used Oliver's are scarce. The owners have a tendency to hold on to them. Used Oliver's seem to hold their value, or even appreciate. So, it seems you might as well order a new one, and get it equipped as you like? As far as tow vehicles go, do a "search" here to see the responses. Realize that the search results are usually brand biased. Those with a GM will recommend them, and so on and so on. Don't depend on brochures or salespeople, look at the decals on the door. Depends on how a particular vehicle is equipped as to what it will pull, or maybe even better yet, what it will stop while maintaining control. Also remember to add the weight of any toys you might carry like bikes, kayaks, as well as cast iron cookware...

A 2015 did not have a built in EMS (electrical management system). A good place may be to look at the GFCI. Both the one at the dinette and the one on the inverter (if so equipped).