Mainiac

Our early 2017 has that single tv port. That coaxial cable terminates in the "attic". The " attic" is usually what the middle back upper cabinet is called. A guess, if not visible, is it would be behind the street side panel inside.

Cables were an initial concern. Not anymore. Pull them out and snap on, done. Disconnect and throw over tongue, done. Never drag, stretch in tight turns as needed and then retract. Trouble free. We like to "fine tune" things, but never found a need with the cables.

Welcome from Maine and hull #211 Tips for tenters becoming Oliver Owners: as you read the forum and search online, you might feel you want to gather "stuff". Most want to store that " stuff" in a spare room. DON'T DO IT. There is more room in a garage or barn. We have found that half the "stuff" we loaded into the truck, for pickup, no longer travels with us. Cabinets are now more empty that they were the first year. Just know there is a WallyW, a Tractor Supply, and a grocery store just a short way of where you pick up the unit. Let the fun begin. The anticipation is part of the journey. See you around a campfire somewhere.

Welcome from Maine. Maybe that Avatar you are using would look good on the front of an Oliver??

Air skirts...like in a hovercraft?.. Interesting concept. A steering wheel by the rear window?where do air keep th life jackets? Where do I hang the numbers? So many questions...

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That plug is readily avatar labor at Home Depot or Lowes. Think Tractor a supply may have it as well as ACE. With brass pipe fittings usually.

Is there an RV junkyard around? Some of the SOB (some other brands) fall apart before the toilets do. Get parts or whole fixtures from them?

Does David Crockett SP have power? Maybe a turkey TV (frozen) dinner?

Our button didn't work to change it to a spray. We kept pushing it but it didn't want push. We took it off and filled it with vinegar and let it sit (I think it was a couple of days before we got back to it). We put it back on, turned on the water, pushed the button. It crunched a few times and started to work. Guess it got a small piece of calcium caught in it. More a problem with the water than the faucet?

Hull #211 a 2017 model has the valve. Only really open when winterizing and hand pumping antifreeze in. Does not get used much, if at all!.

Mine sits outdoors, uncovered, and the solar keeps everything charged. Even with some ice and snow on the panels we seem to get a charge. We do top off the water, well before a freeze, in the fall and spring. Can you put a portable panel outside in the sun and plug it in?

Don't forget space for the Camp Chef. Without an oven in the Oliver you got to plan for a way to cook biscuits, or cornbread.

You do know that a dog bone adapter reduces the 50 amp two (2) 120V lines to one (1) 120V line with no more than 30 amps (probably less)? Maybe the pedestal with a 50 amp outlet is newer and wired with the proper wire, breakers, and connectors? That would explain less voltage drop and surges. Surges are usually a system under stress, ie: under size wire, larger loads than the system was designed for, poor maintenance on the busses and breakers, or even the supplier unable to provide amble supply. A single 120V 30 amp line will usually run the AC when operating in high heat, and the AC only. Look at what the starting and operating current requirements are. Refrigerator should be on propane. No other electrical loads except maybe a few LED lights and maybe a TV.

Has anybody read every single posting? Which ones does everybody skip over?

You can just pull in and stay. They have a brochure that shows all the CB in the country. It may indicate which ones have overnight spots? I find they usually do have RV 'reserved' sites. I usually do let them know I am staying, if they are open, by letting the server know. They usually have the manager stop to say "hi" and OK. Most are open at 6 am. I have found them to be quiet, reasonable level as we don't unhook, and no cooking required. Some times even free WiFi.

Are you looking at the outlet on the front of the dinette? The side towards the front? Not inside, or under, it? Have you turned the inverter on? What you may be looking for is a GFI on the inverter. Usually the cord is unplugged from the inverter to easier see the reset. Reset and then plug back in.

Lock doors? Yes, I guess we do sometimes, depends on where we are, not all ways. We have found one Interstate looks and sounds pretty much like all the others, we avoid them. In these small towns we can usually find a parking lot that we fit in. Farmers markets and small grocery stores provide all our needs. We did find you can get some of the best meals at the local diner. You know the diner, the one with the sparkly purple vinyl seats that has duct tape on it. The biscuits are the best. And the locals you talk to can tell you about some of the prettiest places to visit or stay. Bugs? Really haven't had too much problems except maybe blood sucking, dive bombing salt water mosquitoes in the early spring...

Why not rent an RV to try it out? That would give you an idea about both worlds. What I like about TT is you can set it up at a campsite and you are "home". You can spend the day watching the buffalo roam, or watching salt spray off the tops of waves near your new favorite lighthouse, or eagles soaring over a mountain top. When the day winds down you pull back into your campsite and nothing to do or hook up. Light a fire, uncork the wine, watch the fireflies...

Welcome. As a former Scamp camper, it is just short of amazing the increased level of creature comforts in the Oliver. I also am surprised by how many folks follow me into rest areas and gas stations to find out what it is.

All of that. Right where you get in to adjust the water valves. You have to pick up the duct hose to drain the fresh tank? Right there. That duct laying on the pipes I am sure keeps them warm, but the straighter the pipe the easier air flow. It usually has a lot of twist and bends there. Have you ever gotten underneath and seen all the drain holes? Covered by those directional SS covers? As the furnace sucks in return air, how much cold air is it getting from those vents? Air will move in the path of least resistance. If there are restrictions of a tote or other objects near the return vent I am sure it does. Or if that vent is closed? I also have yet to look at where the furnace actually gets it's return air from, and if there are any restrictions in that area. It is a difficult area to get to and a potential for "quality control" to avoid?

We have found, by adding the vent high in the bathroom wall, that we were able to relieve a lot of the negative pressure in the bathroom. It works extremely well when the bathroom door is closed. This allows the air to return to the return vent easier. By adjusting the heat vent under the bed to about half closed, the kitchen one about the same and the bath vent full open we got the best results. We also found by straightening out the duct in the basement, from the heater, we eliminated some of the air restrictions and turbulence. The air seems to flow better. As the heat loss from the duct seems to be what keeps the tank space warmer as well as the return vent air we didn't want to insulate. What might help a lot is to close off those hull drain holes, which I am sure allows a lot of cold air intrusions and heat loss. As for the closet? I have noticed how 'cool' it gets, but can't find a reason to waste heat on that static space. Cloths and towels can be taken out a few minutes before?

Is there a manual override available? That was asked in another thread. Just curious if there are limit switches? Thinking maybe moving the awning a little might close a limit switch? Also would allow one to retract if this should happen when extended? It would make a trip home easier.

Why does the blue 7 cup cost more than the red 11 cup by 35%?