Mainiac

I shudder to think why you might need a ladder at the dump station!

And the solution was???

We used to carry a telescoping !adder. Found we never really had a need for it. Don't even use it at home very often. It no longer travels with us. If we really needed to get up there I guess we could back the TV up near and stand on the tailgate? Probably if you check those solar wing nuts before leaving they should be alright for the trip. If it is a real concern you could put some LocTite on the threads before leaving? Looks like there are at last 4 Olivers based in NH now, and at least 22 in Maine. Seems there are over 1200 Olivers scattered around the country. So my guess is if you are in an area and really need a ladder put the word out, someone will bring you one. Oliver folks are like that... Maineiac

The longer trailer is easier to back up (believe it or not) in a straight line. The smaller unit turns quicker so you have to learn to make smaller and slower turns of the steering wheel. It becomes second nature after a trip or two. The best thing, for you, is that the smaller unit will fit in about any space. At any campground the small sites are usually the last to go. You would be able to get into sites that even some of the newer 'pop-ups' are too big for. Th smaller unit is also easier to find an easy place to pull into at a rest area. Easy to park at a shopping mall or grocery store, and you know you will have to restock the vitals...

I used to wonder if using Teflon tape would somehow (electrically) insulate the anode from the tank I think the water itself would provide any path for an electrical charge from the anode rod and tank, bypassing any Teflon tape isolation. I still wonder about stuff, but that is what the internet is for. It is just that I get distracted and forget what I was wondering about...

I ALWAYS use Teflon tape on the anode. I do try to "chase" the old tape out of the threads before wrapping three new turns on. You always have to be careful when starting the anode in (especially a new one),_because the weight inside makes it difficult to line up the threads. You don't want to cross thread this item. If you get it in a little and have to take it out just make sure Teflon is still in good shape. If not remove it all and start over.

As I understand it, an ST rated tire has a stiffer sidewall. A stiffer sidewall should help eliminate any (or at least minimize) side way sway caused by flexing sidewalls. I must also say I have never noticed any sway while underway with my 2017 Michelin LT rated tires. If you was to stand at the back side of the Oliver and push and release, push and release you would see the sidewall flex. That was a concern, when picking up our unit that it had LT rated tires instead of ST. As the same tires were 10 ply we figured we would give them a try as they had performed very well on plow trucks. It turns out it was really a non issue. Think it would be nice to know that replacement tires are readily available most everywhere. Now for the important "stuff": do I have enough instate firewood and wine for tonight?

magnesium anode protects: have to agree. A wire and about 3" of material are about my time to replace. Lot of holes mean more surface area. I would screw the anode back in the ( loosely) water heater just to keep bugs out. When you sanitize? Do you keep the water heater on bypass? Probably a good idea. We have a brass nozzle that screws on our hose that gives a fine high press stream. We direct it into the anode hole and it will flush out most of the "crap" in there. I have heard of, and have done, is pour a mixture of vinegar into the water heater and let it sit overnight. And then flush in the morn. It does seem to help remove some "stuff". And then Teflon tape and the new anode.

Glad to see such an easy solution, to an almost non existent problem, was shared. If you have the problem, you now have the solution. You don't have the problem, you don't have a problem. (It was kinda interesting to read some of the comments though).

As I understand it, an ST rated tire has a stiffer sidewall. A stiffer sidewall should help eliminate any (or at least minimize) side way sway caused by flexing sidewalls. I must also say I have never noticed any sway while underway with my 2017 Michelin LT rated tires. If you was to stand at the back side of the Oliver and push and release, push and release you would see the sidewall flex. That was a concern, when picking up our unit that it had LT rated tires instead of ST. As the same tires were 10 ply we figured we would give them a try as they had performed very well on plow trucks. It turns out it was really a non issue. Think it would be nice to know that replacement tires are readily available most everywhere. Now for the important "stuff": do I have enough instate firewood and wine for tonight?

If, in the mean time, you want to flush the tank, you could just pour a bucket of fresh water down the toilet? Fix it at you leasure?

With the current cold front moving deep into the South, this might be important. A few that don't usually winterize, a few novices, or those that usually do this later; remember to open the T&P valve before taking out the anode.

When I removed the anode I was using a 1/2" ratchet with a 6" extension and socket. When the water heater decided to flush itself below and against my belt buckle I jumped back rather forcefully. Never released the ratchet. It might have slowed the projectile a little, but that anode still traveled past me better than 5 feet. I still think it was laughing as it flew by...

Should have opened a faucet inside, to relieve the pressure, per the winterization video.. HOWEVER, the video casually mentions to drain the waterheater, with no mention of opening the T & P valve. Live and learn...

Make a check sheet. Follow the check sheet. To drain the water heater: Step one, open the T & P (temp and pressure relief valve). Step two, then remove the anode plug Failure to open the T &P valve first could cause that anode plug to fly out under extreme pressure. Some idiot just did that, and the anode flew out over five feet and soaked the unaware actor. Lucky that no one got hurt. (I should have known better, as I had written the check sheet. And in a former life I used to winterize over 40 units a year. And boy was that water COLD) Another note: the anode had a lot of holes in it. That is great. It means it is doing it's job. And the more holes means the more area exposed to the water. Over 6 years and don't have to replace it yet. Guess we are lucky and have used "good" water. Will only replace it when it is down to a wire and about 3 or 4 inches long. Some dealers like to sell tnem. Think Spring

Think you might find that the two 6V batteries have more "drawdown" than one 12V battery. Think why all those golf carts out there use a series of 6V instead of 12V?

I used to hang around a seasonal campground. I have seen covers, that had flapped around all winter, 'buff' the paint off SOBs (Some Other Brands). If they used a tarp, even worse. Let alone a good snow fall could end up freezing the cover to the ground. Cover frozen to the ground means no entrance to the unit to check nside, unless you destroy the cover. Also you still want to remove too much of a load off the AC and solar panels. Hard to remove the load without damaging a cover? I have had an inch of ice and maybe 9 to 12" of snow on top of that and according to the solar controller inside it was still charging. Haven't plugged it in since bringing it home in 2017, where it rest between trips. Wish I was as ambitious as these others when it comes to waxing. A quick Maquires Wash and Wax twice a year is all I have done. However this Fall I fully intend to wax and buff...

Richard...outside, and clear of flammable items: I have tried a little gasoline in a triggered oil can. Once you have identified the carburetor, spray just a little gas into the top opening of the carb. This is assuming you have spark. I have been lucky a couple of times by doing this that the engine sucks enough fresh gas on it's own to start and run. I have to say that I agree a new carb is the easiest and least frustrating solution. It sure teaches you to use a gas storage solution at the end of the season, and then drain the gas to boot. Glad you got it free.

Same batteries used in golf carts. In Maine you get a $10 trade in credit for each battery...

Is it true Seadawg? 14 years with an Oliver? They should trade you the new model for $1?? And put yours in the RV Hall of Fame....

I also carry the "fancy" tape. I have used it to fix different things,, at campsites, for fellow campers. However, when "fixing" the umbilicalcord/plug connection I will stick with electrical tape. We put a small amount of silicone caulk around the seam and then double wrap about 4" of the tape. I have found the "cheap" tape forms a more rigid connection outboard of the outlet, allows the cord to gently bend down, keeps the connection secure, and last for a long long time. I have noticed the the newer units have a cord that exits at a 45° or so to minimize the problem (and broken plastic on the sockets). Dump trailers, boat trailers, and other objects in a salt water environment have proven its vaue. Just know that a standard product, that works, is an acceptable item to use...

But wait a minute! My Ollie is the only RV I have ever owned, which also makes it the best RV I have ever owned! So maybe I’ll just keep it, warts and all. well done. Well stated. Reflects the feelings of the majority of us owners that are out there. To us our Oliver is like a hammer to a carpenter. A tool to get the job done. Not an object that has become a central reason for our very existence. Again, "Well Done".

Hh

The question fridge is only 2 way, we use the 3 way features all the time. Dc underway, AC at CG, propane off the grid. Current refrigerator size is adequate for our needs, as long as we rotate in beverage needs each night for the following day. Better half says micro too high for anyone to safely use. Wouldn't want to lose cabinet space either...

I have "repaired" cords like this before. I keep a small tube of GE Silicone in the tool box. A small amount should do it. Then I wrap the area with plastic electrical tape. The tape is warm and pulled tight. It stretches a little and seals real tight. I go from the plug down the cord about three inches and at least three times. A molded on plug, even exposed a little as shown, is more water tight than a replacement plug.