ScubaRx

In the very oldest Oliver's (2008-2009) the cabinets had two doors that slid on tracks rather than opening up or down. Mine would never stay closed during travel, so I installed magnets on the back of each of the sliding doors to hold them in place when properly closed. During the build of our current Hull #050 upon discovering the way the cabinet doors operated, I suggested to the then sales manager that they should open up rather than down. He didn't agree and that was the one thing I could not convince him was a bad idea. The idea of magnets holding them up is the best alternative to the way they are currently mounted that I have seen.

While you’re chewing your cud remember that good quality stainless steel has very little attraction to a magnet.

You're correct, it is a moot point now. So please don't continue to rain down doom and gloom on the rest of us that are still owners. There are still lots of folks that love their Oliver's and many more wishing they could own one. Oliver is working through the same issues that many industries are, but at least they have a long term plan in place that is well thought out, has been years in the making and will succeed. Nobody is being forced to buy from a dealer as opposed to going to Hohenwald. I believe you've mentioned many times about your dissatisfaction of being so far from the factory. These new dealership relations will solve some of those problems. I have an extremely long (fifteen+ years) and close relationship with Oliver trailers as well as the Oliver Family and I can say with confidence that so far, their past business decisions haven't failed them and neither will this one.

Why the sad face @John E Davies?

Also, a standard 6 point socket will not work. You will need either a 8 point or a 12 point socket of the correct size. You can use your impact driver rather than doing it manually.

The software that runs the Rewards Program has developed an issue and it has been temporarily shut down. Jason and Matt are working to get it back online as soon as possible. Sorry for the complications. Also, there are hundreds of people that think they are part of the program that have never registered with Oliver. You must register to be a part of the program. Procedure is as follows. From the Oliver Forum Page... On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select HOME On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select RESOURCES OF the selections on the right ------------------------> Select REWARDS PROGRAM From the left Center of the page --------------------> Select JOIN REWARDS PROGRAM From https://olivertraveltrailers.com/ On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select RESOURCES OF the selections on the right ------------------------> Select REWARDS PROGRAM From the left Center of the page --------------------> Select JOIN REWARDS PROGRAM

I just got off the phone with Oliver. I have confirmed that the first dealer is on board and now has the ability to start selling the Oliver Travel Trailers. They have two locations in Georgia. There are more dealers in the pipeline that will be located in other parts of the country.

Unless you are filling your tank from a fire hydrant, it would be virtually impossible to over pressurize the fresh tank. The overflow hose is 4x larger than the inflow hose. PEX tubing has a standard hydrostatic pressure rating of 160 psi at 73℉. In general, residential water pressure ranges between 45-80 psi. You shouldn't run into problems there. However, from personal experience, about 8 years ago we stayed at a commercial campground in San Antonio. When we checked in, management warned us that the campground water pressure was about 90 psi and recommended we use a pressure reducer to protect the water lines inside the trailer. "No problems, I don't need that", I thought to myself. I hooked up the water, placed one of the blue water filters in the line, turned on the water and went around to the other side of the trailer and sat down in a chair. A little while later someone walking by said that I had water coming gushing out of the other side of out trailer. Upon examination, I found that the sonic welds on the plastic casing of the blue filter have given way under the pressure and it had exploded. I removed the remains of the filter and reconnected the water hose. No damage to anything else.

These detector/sensor units can go bad, sometimes rather quickly. I spoke with another owner a few days ago and he stated that his CO detector had failed and he called the company that makes them for a replacement. Upon installing the new one it failed also. Another call to the company and another replacement to get it sorted out. He said the company was very easy to work with. Give them a call and I'll bet you get a new one right away.

Are you selling already? Your trailer is less than two years old. Good Luck and remember to check in here from time to time. 😄

Four six volt batteries would be wired as two sets of two batteries, each wired in series to create two twelve volt sets, but the amperage would stay the same as one battery. Those two sets would then be wired in parallel to keep the voltage at twelve volts. At that point, the amperage would double to that of twice the amperage of one of the batteries. Take a picture of the wiring, take each battery and deal with it separately and follow the advice that @Rivernerd outlined above.

I’ve seen some gigantic O-Rings on heating/chiller piping and pumps in the maintenance areas of our hospital.

You’ll sell it faster on Foy Sperring’s FB page. After managing the classified section for about a year, I decided that only about 50-60% sold. Based on the number of hits each seller got, there didn’t seem to be as much traffic as I expected. Don’t anyone hold your breath waiting on Oliver to change their mind. That ship has sailed.

The main reason Oliver started using the "touch" lights in the first place is because prospective buyers kept asking for them. On our previous Oliver, 2008 Hull #026, each light was outfitted with a little rocker switch. We enjoyed being able to control each light individually. Also, the original lights used a 12 volt Halogen T3 Lamp with a G4 Bi-Pin Base rated at 10 watts. These bulbs drew about 0.8 amp each and put out a good amount of heat. Most of us early adopters quickly swapped the bulbs out with LED's drawing about 0.1 amp each. LED's were just coming into wide spread usage in mid to late 2008 and they were still reasonably expensive. I remember ordering enough bulbs to replace all the inside and outside lights and it costing over $120. During our 2013 build, I was somewhat dismayed when I found out they intended to connect several lights together on a single switch. I convinced them to wire a switch placed right beside each of our lights. I love the lights in our current Oliver. There was a time around 2015 when Oliver got a bad batch of those lights and they started burning out quickly. Oliver came to the rescue with a bag of lights for each owner that said any of their lights had gone bad. Our trailer has now been on the road for 10 years and I've only ever had one to fail. I like the idea of them going back to lights with integral switches.

@jd1923 Is the valve with the blue housing a Misol brand or US Solid brand. If it is a US Solid brand the threads will be 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread - tapered threads) If it is a Misol brand be aware that the threads may be 1/2" BPT (British Pipe Thread - straight threads) Both of these brands are manufactured in China. I'm pretty sure that neither brand valves are using lead-free brass. However, the US Solid brand does have a SS version available. My original valves have BPT. knowing that there was a slight difference in the thread pitch, I used Teflon tape (several wraps) to make a watertight seal with the 1/2" NPT plastic nipples that I used to join the valves to the rest of the plumbing. I have never had any seeping or leakage, but I wanted you to be forewarned that it might be a good idea to seal those threads well. I like your plan to also be able to control the valves in such a way that you can also use the system to suck antifreeze into the pipes. The use of momentary contact switches is clever as well. The reason I did not include these functions into my system is because I don't use antifreeze here in the Deep South. I just blow out the lines with air pressure and keep a small electric heater going during the colder months (December thru January) to keep the entire trailer including the basement at about 60 degrees. The reason I did not use momentary contact switches is because the electric valves I used do not have any power draw while they are at rest. I have recently installed a compressed air system in the trailer that lets me flip one switch and it opens two electric valves that allows 40psi compressed air into the plumbing system to purge all the lines and the water heater for my minimal "winterization." There are back flow preventer's in the air lines to keep water from entering the air system when in normal use. I also extended the air lines to quick-connects in the wheel wells to make the checking and filling of the tires easier.

Check your rear gas valve. It sure appears to be partially open and may be leaking a little. Between the facts of propane being heavier than air and that you have a cap on the quick-connect fitting, it probably will not collect in the basement. You'll know it the first time the water heater or the furnace lights if it has.

I changed my valves over to electric about 6 years ago because of the difficulty of changing them from Normal flow to Aux Fill. You can vastly simplify that aspect of your project by using two of the 3-way valves and only one DPDT (wired for reversing) switch.

We made a 15,000 mile loop from home, through Canada, Alaska and back home in 2019. About 90 days on the road with 95% boondocking. We never had trouble finding a place to stay. In Fairbanks we stopped at a glassblowing shop and they invited us to spend the night in their parking lot! I'm not interested in spending money to park overnight. If we're going to stay a few days in a given spot - maybe, but not if I can find a place to boondock.

Take care Frank. Thank you for all your insightful posts and comments since you joined us back in November of 2018. I wish you all the best in your future endeavors.

Darn, I've been found out.

To overcome the ground plane issue, could you not just install a base plate of pre-famulated amulite mounted right up against the roof inside the fiberglass topper? It would seem to me that this would effectively eliminate any side fumbling between the novertrunnions and the grammeters. Sufficient cooling should be provided by the non-reversible tremie pipes normally provided with the purchase of the base plate but if overheating occurs, consider installing a good panametric fan. The best ones consist simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes mounted on a ambifacient girdle waneshaft. They can be run natively on 12 volts DC and are easily found and any Big Box store. This should increase your bandwith significantly however, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration or if forescent skor motion is required, you will need to install a left facing drawn reciprocation dingle arm.

We too have camped through some serious storms, most all of which were thunderstorms. I am always somewhat anxious during one while we are inside the Oliver. The fiberglass hull provides zero protection from a lightning strike. If it gets bad enough, we will leave the trailer and get inside the truck. This would be the only time that an Airstream is clearly better than an Oliver due to the fact that its metal body normally protects people from lightning strikes by acting as a Faraday cage. We have never been in a hail storm of any consequence.

I always wondered if that wouldn’t turn out to be the proper way to deal with the beads. If for no other reason than to be able to balance the tires the correct way.

Basically, an Oliver Owner has three choices on where to put his/her portable generator. 1 - Put it in the basket on the tongue of the trailer. 2 - Put it in the rear of your truck and deal with having to futz around with it when you want to use it. 3 - Put it in the garage at home and leave it there.

Ninety is probably plenty, but one hundred is OK too. Tighten in steps, say 50-70-90 or 100 pound/feet at a time. Important, check torque again after driving about 75 miles.