ScubaRx

I agree that all pex fittings should be brass from the factory, but shark-bite fittings are 10x the cost. They don't work any better than the crimp-on's, they are just easier for the not-so-handy owners without every tool known to man and the know how to use them.

Oliver is currently still using the Xantrex inverter/charger. At one time I believe they investigated the Victron I/C for improved compatibility but I think that weight or space was an issue.

Looks as if it might have been constructed from a 20 foot shipping container.

As Sherry points out, a 5 cubic foot freezer is a ton of frozen meat storage. A rule of thumb is one cubic foot of freezer space will store 35-40 pounds. So it's actually only about 175 pounds, but still. I know you are looking at an Oliver to buy, but unless you're planning to travel with a fully grown timber wolf, it's going to be hard for you to consume that much meat in a reasonable time. I'm all about overkill and no one will ever accuse me of being a minimalist, but while I think your idea is sound it may be perhaps a bit unrealistic about what you really need. We travel with a 75 Liter Dometic dual zone freezer/fridge combo. Either or both sides can be fridge or freezer. It equates to about 2.6 cubic feet of storage. The great thing about going in this direction is that it will run off either 12 VDC or 120 VAC. It lives in the bed of our truck with its own Lithium battery and solar panels set up on the roof of the camper top. It will easily store enough fresh meat to keep that wolf happy for a couple of weeks.

Forgo the 4x4 if you want to add extra cargo capacity to a 1/2 ton pickup. The problem with this is finding what you want in a 2 wheel drive will require the unicorn to also be able to fart rainbows.

Spoiler alert: Only one of them was manufactured during this decade. Only one was manufactured during the previous decade. The other eight were all manufactured during the first decade of this millennium. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 – Reliability Score: 55/100 2001 Toyota Tundra - Reliability Score: 52/100 2008 Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon - Reliability Score: 47/100 2005 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra - Reliability Score: 40/100 2004 Ford F-150 - Reliability Score: 20/100 2003 Mazda B-Series - Reliability Score: 19/100 2013 Ram 1500 - Reliability Score: 15/100 2020 Jeep Gladiator - Reliability Score: 15/100 2008 Ford F-250/F-350 - Reliability Score: 6/100 2004 Nissan Titan – Reliability Score: 1/5 Customer Satisfaction

Those screws are backed up by nuts? The only thing I would guess would be glue in addition. I don't think they would have needed screws and glue. Additionally I can't see any way to place the two upper brackets unless it was done pre-assembly and I don't think they would have done it that way.

That is a nice looking trailer. This the worst website design I've ever tried to use.

USB-C is the way to go. Apple has finally switched to USB-C for its new iPhone 15 lineup. https://www.cnet.com/videos/how-apples-switch-to-usb-c-will-change-the-iphone/

The blue light is purely an indicator that the switch is "on". This known as a SPST illuminated rocker switch. It will have three terminals on the back side. They should be labeled as 1-2-3 or A-B-C. In this illustration just imagine the fan as the camera. # 1 is power from the battery, # 2 is power to the camera, # 3 is ground to the blue led so that it lights up when you turn on the switch. Your deduction is correct. The ground for the camera is NOT coming from the switch. In our Oliver's, a yellow wire means it is a ground. To install your booster, splice into the power wire on the # 2 terminal and run it to the positive side of the booster, you can also pull a ground from the yellow wire to go to the negative side of the booster.

You did not say which camera is installed on your trailer. IF there is a fuse it will be an inline one in the power cord hidden behind the white reflectix insulation glued inside the attic cabinet. You'll have to pull it all down to find it. Put it back into place using spray contact cement. Use of this will probably set off your propane detector.

Was said difference for the good or bad?

Yes, this a big concern. But only while stationary. Under tow being level not nearly as important. But....You can and should do a lot better that 18 inches out of level. At the risk of offending somebody's sensibilities about using something they would probably consider "overkill", try using the Curt 45926 Adjustable Channel Ball Mount. If you can't level the trailer with that, you need to buy a bigger truck.

I agree.

👍

I’ll be Bach.

My bad, I see it now, Thanks!

It appears the steps are currently being made from tread plate rather than flat plate aluminum.

I personally can’t envision not having exactly the right tool for any and every job I do. You’ll soon learn that using the wrong size socket will quickly round off the flats on either bolt heads or nuts.

I apologize for not realizing the posts were too short to accommodate two stacked 4/0 terminals. You are correct, of course, and I thought your use of the threaded rod connectors to lengthen the battery terminals was innovative and rather elegant, but as someone mentioned earlier, steel is not the conductor of choice here. Copper or brass would be much better but you'd likely have to make your own.

At Oliver's request, in late 2013, I designed the first solar system that would go on to be installed in all the OEII's from 2014 and beyond from Hulls #050 thru #199. I included the best equipment on the market at the time. Blue Sky was the cream of the crop. Victron was just a future dream. Victron does not work any better than the Blue Sky stuff, it's just slicker, has more bells and whistles and better integration. My panel was not mounted where yours is. It is up at eye level where it should be because that's where I told them to put it. I don't know who's bonehead idea it was to start putting them down below the pantry, but I told them is was a bad idea. Just like I told them switching to Zamp was a bad idea when they began installing them starting with Hull #200. It took them years to finally change to something better (Victron). Most of us have moved all the wires out of the battery box except the jumpers and the main cables that feed the cabin. All those wires are now attached to buss bars, one for negatives and one for positives. It really cleans up the inside of the box and makes adding or changing things much simpler. Plus, you don't need taller posts on the batteries. You could use copper bars but the buss bars are cheaper and come already purposed for what you want to do.

It does drain into the gray tank, but it has to get through that valve first in order to get there.

One of the early Owners lathe turned some inserts out of 4x4 composite fence posts that fit perfectly. He gave some to his friends. I still use mine.

When the Oliver travel trailer went back into production in 2013 after the 4+ year hiatus, one of the items that had previously been included was deleted, the motorized electric cord reel. Since we had owned one of the early models that had that feature, I was disappointed to learn that it would no longer be included in the list of standard features. I insisted that we have one included in our Hull #050 and being the wonderful company they are, my "request" was accommodated. As far as I know, none of the trailers built after mine has had this feature.

Just glue it back on and forget about it.