ScubaRx

Ninety is probably plenty, but one hundred is OK too. Tighten in steps, say 50-70-90 or 100 pound/feet at a time. Important, check torque again after driving about 75 miles.

Did I mention that this rear mounting thing is a bad idea?

Richard, I know this is a little late in the game but I believe Badger's solution was to purchase the bonding plug that Phil mentioned.

I've never seen one physically attached to the trailer in any way other than in the generator (excuse me, cargo) basket on the front. This is a very poor idea, but I suppose you could fabricate some sort of carrier for the rear. Other than that, there's no other open space. Did I say that was a poor idea? Good luck, though...

I do believe I have high jacked and sidetracked this thread and I sincerely apologize.

The only good thing about the light is they will probably turn it off after a short time. Unlike those that build a stinking fire and go to bed with it still smouldering.

Those back-flow preventers (Allows water to flow only in one direction - note the tiny arrow on each of them in the plumbing graphic).

Let's just stick to answering the questions asked. Which you mostly did, thank you very much. @GAP please pass on John’s very thorough explanation of the retrofitting. I doubt it could be improved upon very much. The new owners probably have a valid (albeit personal) reason in wanting to change out the composting toilet for a regular one because there are also "SOOOOO many reasons" to not want one. One reason is medical. Most folks don't discuss their intimate bowel habits with the other members on an open forum. Even though it's true that 90% of new buyers choose the composting toilet, there is a plethora of medical reasons that these are not the necessarily the best toilet choice for everybody. The greatest obstacle to properly using one may well be the need to keep solids and liquids separate. What if your “solids” are usually mostly liquid. There is a wide range of problems that can cause chronic diarrhea; some of the most common causes include irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), inflammatory bowel disease (Crohn disease and ulcerative colitis), mal-absorption syndromes, like celiac disease, in which food cannot be digested and absorbed. There are also infections such as C. diff (also known as Clostridioides difficile). There are, as well, many other less common causes of chronic diarrhea. There is probably no drug on the market that doesn’t include “diarrhea” among its many side effects. Ten percent of Americans have Type II diabetes. The most prescribed oral medication for that disease is Metformin, but its gastrointestinal adverse effects such as diarrhea, flatulence, nausea and vomiting can be a barrier to its use and quite possibly make using a composting toilet very difficult. I seriously doubt there has ever been a discussion between a sales rep and a potential new owner that checked off 'composting toilet' on their order list about any of these issues.

Yeah, but this thread lost all its focus before the end of the first page. Now it's a "What grease is best for my ball" or a "What beer can should I cover my ball with" question. If anyone wants to continue this line of inquiry, please start a new thread.

It is about time. When the Outlaw Oliver was being built in 2013, I specified that each light should have its own switch. If they do this, I can add it to my long list of our original ideas that have now become either standards or options.

This has way too many rules. Especially since there are now folks offering free boondocking spaces for up to five days with porta-potties, food vendors for all meals, no kids under 18, rattlesnakes, only fiberglass trailers allowed, blue grass music, fire ants, and no hidden fees... For what else could you ask?

I realize that it is a little late to jump in here with this information. The title of this thread is: Battle Born Lithium Ion 12 Volt Batteries in an Oliver? The Lithium Batteries that are optional on the new Oliver's and the Battle Born replacements are Lithium Iron Phosphate not Lithium Ion. There are some big differences in the two technologies and I'll not try to explain them here. Google Lithium Iron Phosphate vs Lithium Ion for in-depth information. Just an FYI, Carry On...

First off, let me welcome you to the forum and tell you something you probably already know. You have chosen the best fiberglass trailer that has ever been built. You should get many trouble free years of use out of it. This won't make your wait any shorter or any easier, but just a year or so ago the wait for an Oliver was over 12 months. The wait for an Escape trailer was 26 months and the only price guarantee they would make was that it would be several thousand more than it was the day you ordered it. They could not give you a final price on order day. Besides all that, when it was all said and done, you still only ended up with an Escape travel trailer. Not even a second choice for most of us. These next two months will go by so fast you won't believe it.

It should be simple to make a turkey out of it.

One of the last ones to post their Oliver's here on the forum never got a hit. A few days ago I spoke to him on the phone about what had transpired and advised him to list it on Facebook. I heard from him yesterday and he said he'd had a half dozen inquiries already with at least three of them very interested. I think you'll do fine selling on FB. Good Luck!

Is this a free offer to camp with no fees attached?

My original bathroom door (Hull #050) was the same door that was on our previous Hull #026. They were hand crafted at the factory and had a full length magnetic strip along the leading edge to hold it shut. There was also the twist latch. At some time, they decided to have the doors made outside rather than in house. I would have suspected they were made the same way, with the magnetic strip. The main reasons for the manual latch were to keep the door from opening when you bump it with your butt while taking a shower and, of course, to keep the bears out.

Maybe I was the only victim.

I got 4 of the 11 posted pictures.

Do you own a General Motors Truck With the Rear View Mirror Camera? Have you mounted a Camper Top that has obscured its vision rendering it unusable? Would you like to have that feature restored?

A phantom draw (AKA Parasitic loads) are the electrical draws from appliances that continuously suck power from your RV battery. Items like carbon monoxide detectors and other electronics with lights or display screens can be parasitic loads.is a loss The phantom draw on our trailer is 0.4 amps. That's 9.6 amps daily. On a typical AGM battery bank, you will have between 200-225 amp-hours available for use before they reach that critical 50% mark. Our trailer with no power input and those same batteries would be at that point in about 3 weeks. I'd warn that friend because there's no possible way those batteries won't be completely, irrevocably dead in 3-4 months. Even if he disconnects the batteries, AGM batteries will have a self-discharge or internal electro-chemical “leakage” of between 1% and 15% per month, depending on storage temperature. The warmer it is, the faster they will discharge. He basically has two choices. He can remove all the batteries, take them home and put them on a 3 stage charger for the winter OR he can go to his storage unit about once every month and pull the trailer into the sun or use a generator to run the charger and charge them there. Regardless of their construction, whether it's a "sealed" AGM deep cycle or flooded auto starter battery, a fully charged lead acid battery has a freezing point down around -55°C/ -67°F.

Pay attention here, light duty truck owners. This is absolutely true.

Congrats on your upcoming retirement. You've made the right choice in an Oliver. We've owned two over the past 16 years starting in 2008. The company is following a business path that will keep them moving forward and customers happy for years to come.

I've done off and on research on the Acorn vs Bulge Acorn Nut dilemma since I first posted about these lug nuts and questions were raised over a year ago. What Frank said is true, there is less contact area with the wheel from the nut. From what I've read, there is an approximate 6% decrease. Otherwise the fit is perfect. I was unable to find anything in solid Stainless Steel that stated they were of the Bulge Acorn design. I've driven over 10K miles after installation. I torque to 95 pound-feet. There has never been a time I've discovered a loose lug nut. I do check. Bonus Information... that any good engineer would already know, but that I've only recently discovered, (I might have known it 53 years ago when I took physics at Ole Miss) Alert readers will note my use of “pound-feet” instead of “foot-pounds”. Are these units of measurement Interchangeable? The short answer is NO. They are each separate, distinct units of measure. The “pound-foot” (lb-ft) is a measure of torque. Torque is a measure of the force that can cause an object to rotate about an axis. The “foot-pound” (or more accurately, “foot-pound-force”), is a measurement of work. Work is the measurement of force over a given distance.

It’s that way in Mississippi. I alway trade in a used vehicle when buying a new one. The you only pay sales tax on the difference in price.