ScubaRx

A while back, we settled on this set up for our water purification. It has worked well for us many years now. It's quick, easy to set up and make friends with all the surrounding campers.

Mike and Elizabeth, I wish you many future good times.

I would be willing to install this just to eliminate all the grease zerks.

Sometimes when you run the jack up too far, the torque converter in it will get jammed/cross-threaded/buggered (pick a term you like). At any rate, the motor is unable to make the internal screw turn up or down. This happened to me several years ago. I put the jack handle on it and really had to push/pull hard to break it loose. But, once done, it operated normally and has ever since. Remember, it may be hard to break loose.

That hole is not in my jacks. It appears that it has been drilled and tapped.

I put two lights in the basement. The one visible in the photos and an identical one nearer the outside access door. They are controlled by two 3-way switches, one just inside the outer basement door and one inside the trailer down low, to the right of the basement access hatch. Both of these switches have auxiliary indicator lights so you know that the basement light is on.

Hobo, I will post some photos of the basement interior as seen through the lower access door. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say "tray." I believe what you are seeing may be the aluminum plate that is mounted to the interior of the outer hull to support the spare tire carrier mounted on the outside. That is the reflective area in the upper half of the opening. There is a light mounted in the basement in the center of that area that is "on" in the picture as indicated by the lighted switch to the right of the door. A quick description of the area aft of the door: This area drops off into a "well", the floor of which, is 10" below the bottom of the hatch and is about 6" below the surrounding basement floor.

There was an Oliver owner near us that was having trouble with two of his batteries. We took those two out of service so they would not pull his other two down with them. He went to the big tent and looked at all the different brands of lithium. He came over to the solar tracker booth I was helping with and asked me to go with him to look at the Lion Energy battery. That was when I asked the factory rep to explain about the warranty. The Oliver owner bought a set and installed them while we were at Quartzsite.

While at Quartzsite this past winter, I spoke at length with the Factory rep for the Lion Energy Safari UT1300 battery. They advertise a limited lifetime warranty. I asked him to explain exactly how that would work. He stated that if one of their battery's ever fail for any reason other than physical damage (like a shattered case) it would be replaced at no cost to the owner, no questions asked. At the show we could buy them for $775.00 each, out the door. They seemed like the best buy on the market to me. Now if my seven year old Trojan AGM's would play out...just kidding.

The basement hatches are very handy.

Error code E2 on the Progressive Industries EMS means "Open Ground"

Due to the extra height of the GoLight behind our A/C, 10 feet is an absolute must for us. During our return trip from the Boler Rally in Winnipeg in 2018, we toured North and South Dakota. This photo is looking back North after going thru Hood Tunnel as we were traveling South on SD 87 in the Black Hills toward Custer, SD. It gave me pause but it is actually bigger than it looks. Hood Tunnel: 10 feet, 6 inches wide; 11 feet, 3 inches high.

The extra port only become really handy if you, like ourselves, transport the generator on the tongue 100% of the time. We travel far and wide and boondock 95% of the time so we do use it sometimes. I like to have every possible contingency covered so a generator is just one more tool that I carry.

I'm a little confused about the Amazon price: 1 can for $11.99 2 cans for $34.61 Hmmmmm

Susan, I created some unique storage space behind the propane tanks with outside access. You can find information about it and several of my mods in this thread.

We have a generator hook up on the front of the camper mounted in the right side front of the propane housing. It is wired through a transfer switch which is part of the cost. This will accomplish two goals. It will prevent two different sources of power coming into the trailer and it will prevent back flow of electricity into the power grid if you're plugged up also. Why would that ever happen, you ask. It probably would not, but let's say you were in a campground on a hot, muggy night running the air conditioner. The power goes off and you're told it may be off for a while. You go out and start the generator (forgetting to unplug the trailer) crank the A/C up and go back to bed. The power company is out busy trying to get power back on. Without the transfer switch, your generator will be happily putting 120 volts AV back into the grid with the potential of electrocuting some poor lineman working on the lines. The way we have ours set up is such that I can leave the generator plugged into the trailer. I made up a 36 inch cord that runs between the two. In some cases we have actually run the generator while going down the road. You can have the trailer cool if you want to stop for lunch or the night. These are a few of the benefits of having it. Other than being an extra expense, I can't think of any disadvantages.

Som Over 80% of the Elite II's sold are the twin bed models. I would expect that there is a great amount of usage of the side dinette.

Man, I was tickled to death to replace Pine (web browser) with Netscape. It was right up there with going from Windows 2.xx to Windows 3.1.

Trojan T-105's are golf cart batteries, they are 6 volts with 225 AH. Four of them wired to give you 12 volts will equal 450 AH with 225 AH available for use and not go below 50% usage. They are the same size as the Trojan AGM's. They are also 6 volts with 200 AH. Four of them wired to give you 12 volts will equal 400 AH with 200 AH available for use and not go below 50% usage. I don't believe Oliver currently offering the T-105's as an option. The battery tray will handle either four of these batteries. There are LiFePo4 batteries that are the same dimensions but are rated at 100 AH each and will give you access to 90% of their 400 AH capacity, along with longer life and shorter charge times. They do cost a "little" more, however.

What Mike said. And, thanks Mike, for composing exactly what I was thinking. The only caveat that I would add is: In creating ducted A/C system (as cool as it is [pun]) would be difficult, if not downright impossible, with the current upper body shell configuration. It would have to be completely redesigned to accommodate the ducting.

Well, gentle readers (with special attention to Mossey), I must confess that I erred in my previous statement. With a little more digging and some "gentle persuasion" from my good friend 'Hardrock', it has come to my attention that the Wendy's and McDonald's is not, in fact, located within the confines of the Grand Canyon -South Rim NP. Rather they are located at Tusayan, AZ, about two miles from the South Entrance. I hope we can all breathe a little easier with this knowledge. Sorry for the confusion. Seriously, I have contacted my representative in regards to this issue.

In looking at LifeBlue's website, it appears that their 200AH, and 300AH batteries both have the same specs: Discharge Current: 150A continuous, 200A for 30 Minutes, 300A for 3 seconds What gives? Also I'm curious about which Charge Controller is supplied in the package. Is a MPPT or is it still a ZAMP PWM? They don't mention a shunt so it may only be a Zamp model. Since Lithium batteries needs to be charged at a constant 14.6 volts and I'm wary of the Zamp ZS-30A / ZS-40A controllers as their Absorption charging voltage is preset to 14.4 +/-0.2 VDC for LiFePO4 batteries. If I'm reading something incorrect in all this, please enlighten me.

Too late there's a Wendy's and a McDonald's.

The South end of your Galway Girl looks palindromically similar to the same view of our Outlaw Oliver... And this photo may answer the question you're asking about right now.

I would replace the outlets with standard screw type just like you would have in your home. I can see (from your picture) how (in theory) these outlets would make installation easier on a production line. I can also see how these can fail. These are similar to the T Tap Insulation Displacement Connectors used in 12 volt circuits. They are hard to install and get a positive, long lasting connection. I won't use them for low voltage wiring and I don't think I'd want these outlets in my high voltage circuits. Thanks for pointing this out.