ScubaRx

All the early trailers (say, below hull #100) were wired with the tow vehicle ground not bonded to the trailer. Ours had that problem. The white wire (ground) from the vehicle (thru the umbilical) must be connected to the buss bar in order for the brakes to work properly. They repaired them as they came back into the factory for any work, but most likely there are some still out there that have never been addressed. So, if your trailer is wired this way, it has everything to do with the trailer disconnect (brake) issues. Putting a six inch jumper from the white wire to the buss bar will solve that. As was stated previously, the only ground for the trailer from the vehicle was thru the ball mount and this was the case in those early builds. That worked pretty well when everything was brand new. As the ball was worn down, the connection became intermittent (thus the connect errors.)

Unless it looks like rain or the weather is cold, we always travel with the windows open about 4 inches and the MaxxFan cover raised to create a cross ventilation. Never had any trouble unless we ran thru some rain and I either forgot and left them open or had to get out in the pouring rain to close them! I don't own a manual so I can't comment on why they would state "that the trailer windows should be closed when the trailer is moving." Ignorance is apparently bliss.

You can open the valve manually to dump the tank, but probably, the cable only slipped out of the valve, it is secured with a set screw. Be careful trying to remove the roll pins, I broke a handle years ago on the OOI trying to do just that. The cable will slide completely out of the housing if you want to lubricate it.

Looking good. Welcome to the Club.

The beds can't be lowered, all the space below is allocated. On one side it's the water heater, water pump and furnace. On the other side it's the inverter and solar charge controller. On both sides you have the wheel wells and rear jacks protruding up into this space. I suppose you could leave all those things off and just set it up as a tiny house.

I have observed that Oliver has switched their standard fittings from PEX to Sharkbite, apparently to save time and ease in initial installation and in repairs. I guess the labor saved makes up for the additional cost of the fittings. And no expensive tools to keep up with. I bought a set of PEX tools earlier this year when I replaced the manual valves at the water pump with electric ones to facilitate using the auxiliary water fill system. Now flip a couple of switches and the tank fills easily!

We were going to do this but the chair kept falling into the hot tub. <grin, sorry>

Apparently the short caused a back flow of power from your coach batteries. Probably would not happen again but this is a good example of all the strange and weird things that can happen. Sometimes it makes you want to pull what little hair you may still have on your head completely out.

Brad, I would expect that to be normal since you're dealing with two transmitters. One in the camera and another in the WVRX1 Digital Wireless Receiver Box. As an aside, I was going to start another thread along this line, so I ask you indulgence in a slight hijack. For those of you that have this two camera setup, I have an extra WVOM713-MO auto pairing 7" monitor like the one you use in your tow vehicle that I would like to sell. As I understand it, some folks move their monitor to the inside of the trailer at night so they can see what's going on in the front of their trailer. PM me if interested. I now return you to your regularly scheduled thread....

My level pops out of a hole, I assumed (ass, you, me, etc) that all the jack heads were all the same. If that were a constant problem, I'd drill a hole under the bubble level.

You are correct about more amp hours, but realistically there are only 25 more usable. This would work out to about one nights use. You are correct about the weight T-105's weigh 62 lbs, AGM's weigh 65 lbs. That is 12 pounds difference, I doubt you could tell the difference. You do have to check the water levels in the T-105's. Is it "...so onerous that it justifies the higher cost and lower AHs?..." to me, absolutely!!! Both of these systems include greasable wet bolts, the difference is the heavy duty compression rubber in the center of the equalizer in the EZ-Flex. Most of us have the EZ-Flex, but some have suggested the other one. I think the choice boils down to personal preference, but you should definitely opt for one of them. I installed the EZ-Flex after delivery (my trailer is the earliest one built-no available options at the time) and having the factory do the work is the way to go. Sorry I can't help you with your tow vehicle question. Congratulations on your new Oliver and welcome to the club.

Scott told Tali that Oliver has contracted with a local vet to keep your dogs free of charge while you are at the factory.

There are many fine fiberglass trailers on the market. They span the whole budget range from economy to luxury. Try attending a rally or two and you will surly see a brand that suits your needs in functionality and price. The search is a lot of fun. We are here to answer any questions so fire away.

You do know you don't have to remove the jack cover to use the manual handle.

Tali likes an Oasis of Olivers

OK boys, play nicely or there'll be a smackin'...

Thanks Rob. You are correct, of course, and I was not very clear the way I worded that sentence. What I should have said was: If your trailer has been sitting for “a few months” with no power input to your batteries and they are still connected to the trailer, due to all the parasitic draws, they were probably dead. Short of disconnecting them, I have no way to isolate our batteries. In our trailer, with all the miscellaneous idiot LED's that are always on, CO detector, refrigerator board, etc. I have a phantom draw of 0.4 amps/hour. That's a little over 9 amps/24 hours. Left alone with no voltage input, I would be at 50% battery in less than 3 weeks. Of course, with you wisely removing your parasitic draws, you avoid that plight.

If your trailer has been sitting for "a few months" with no power input your batteries were probably dead. You state you plugged it in and is now reading 13.x volts so apparently you lucked out and they came back to life. Just the normal parasitic drains in the trailer would draw over 5 amps a day from your batteries. You don't say which batteries you have but they also have an additional monthly self discharge rate of up to 12%. Every time the batteries get depleted they loose some ability to recover. Several depletions will ruin them so you should never leave the trailer without a power source be it plugged in or out in the sun. If you have to store it covered and without access to 110VAC you should unhook the batteries to prevent them from draining so fast, though they will still go flat over time - NOT GOOD. The IPN-Pro is only reporting what it knows. In order for it to accurately report amps going into the batteries from your converter, the negative wire coming out of the converter MUST go directly to the shunt and then from the shunt back to the grounding bus bar located under the rear most dinette seat. If you look inside that area you will see that the negative (yellow) wire coming out of the back of the converter is connected directly to the bus bar thus bypassing the shunt. The converter in your trailer was not wired correctly to be able to interact with the IPN-Pro (all of the trailers at that time were wired this way.) So all the amps going into your battery via the converter after you plugged it in were not registered by the IPN-Pro and it thinks they are dead. There is nothing wrong with the IPN-Pro, so pull the trailer into full sun and the meter will reset itself in no more than a day, probably just a few hours since your batteries are back up to charge. I can help you fix the wiring issue if you wish.

Thank you John, that's exactly what I expected to see. Although it would not remedy your hardware connection issues, for those of you that have this type of drawer you could make it structurally twice as strong. Remove each drawer and place it upside down as shown in John's photo. Use any good type of wood glue and run a bead around the perimeter where the bottom goes into the side pieces. Leave the drawers sitting upside down overnight to allow the glue to set. This will dramatically strengthen the drawer. If you would like to, you can do the same thing on the inside of the drawer.

Very good, also Fleet, Armada, I like this theme.

I kinda like: Pack (as in Wolves) Pod (as in Whales)

Reading a post in the "Sightings" thread over on the FGRV forum about seeing 7 Oliver's at one time (albeit at the factory which really shouldn't count) gave me an idea. We owners should come up with a collective noun that is indicative of a group of Oliver's. Think: Covey of Quail, Span of Mules, Pod of Whales...you get the picture. I figured this had been addressed at some point in the past so I did a search on FGRV and found a 14 year old thread that playfully addressed group names for different brands of trailers at that time. Of course, that was long before Oliver was hatched and many of those brands have slipped into obscurity. Only Casita, Scamp and Bigfoot are still current. So, lets put our thinking caps on and come up with a really cool moniker for a group of these unique trailers. For our purpose here anything more than one qualifies as a group. When we come up with a list, we can vote on which one we feel is best. For those of you who are interested in seeing names for the different groups of animals here is more than you probably ever wanted to know.

I don't have the beautiful dovetail drawers in the OO but I do have a question about them. Are the bottoms captured in a groove near the bottom of the drawer sides?

During a phone conversation with another owner today, your name came up and we wondered how and what you were doing. I commented that you hadn't posted on the forum for some time but you were probably busy with life. I'm so very sorry the disruptions were tragic. When things are sorted out, please come back into the group. We've missed you!

In the early days Oliver toyed with the idea of different colored trailers. They abandoned that idea due to the difficulty of painting every exterior item to match and the additional cost. However, there were two early Oliver's that were painted and sold. Hull #010 is red and currently owned by our forum member bshaffer. I'm not sure of the Hull # of the other (probably #009 or #011) but it was black and dubbed the "Gamblers Edition" due to the unique graphics and interior upholstery. After construction, both of these units were loaded onto a flatbed truck and shipped out West (Jim Oliver has a house in Lake Havasu, AZ) where they were ultimately sold. They also had a partially painted hull section that was blue.