mossemi

How about a pvc pipe with a tee before the tank fill inlet. Point the leg of the tee up and make it long enough to hold the needed amount chlorine. Add a threaded cap. Also keep in mind that chlorine comes in different concentrations with household chlorine being about 5% and typical pool chlorine being 8 to 10 %. You can usually smell the chlorinated water before you can taste it.

John - check this site. They have the Blue Sea at a better price. They have quite a selection.

Thanks again John. Your explanation and pictures should make this a straight forward project for anyone interested.

Protect All works great inside and out and it works on everything.

This seems be a old problem with a variety of solutions. Search for “porch light” from the forums page and you will find several posts on this subject. Dave Phelps post “Porch Light reseal and silicone removal” is a very thorough how to guide on correcting this issue. I also had this problem as well as a water leak at the dinette window. The leak was my motivation to tackle the problem. I have Hull #193 and my lights are different than Dave’s, but the solution is the same. I removed the light fixture above the dinette window and found the fixture is made by an American company named ITC. I thought that’s cool, I’ll just send them an email requesting help with this issue. I think that was in January and I am still waiting for a reply. Not being Mr. Patience’s, the next day I moved on using some of Dave’s procedure. I did not have to remove any silicone because none is used with the ITC fixtures. I removed the gasket and used butyl tape between the light fixture and the hull instead. I then used Starbrite marine silicone to seal the screw holes and the perimeter of the fixture. After several rains, there hasn’t been any streaks or leaks and I have removed the gaskets from the remaining fixtures and now I can concentrate on cleaning up bird poop? Mike

John, I have hull #193 which was picked up by the original owner on 06/14/17. My tongue frame member is 3x5” external and 1.75x3.75” internal. I wonder when they went to a 2x7” frame member as my trailer was ordered or started before yours. Doesn’t really matter though as you could still mount your coupler bar internally. I would think either Bulldog or Treg could engineer an internal bar out of steel to the additional length you desire. If not a local welder should be up to the task. Good luck, I know you’ll find a solution. Mike

I agree that the existing light is inadequate, so I picked up a led battery powered light at Ikea. It is a about 4” in diameter and is motion activated. I have it laying on the floor in the first corner and it helps a great deal. I may mount it on the wall in the future. I believe I have seen a similar light in a 2 or 3 pack at Home Depot.

Once again, your contributions are above and beyond my expectations. The improvements to your Ollie are very well thought out and the detail you share with the forum is appreciated. Looking forward to your road report.

#309 looks comfortable in the Florida sunshine???. Enjoy your new Ollie.

According to the Ollie schematic, the rear stabilizers switch’s are red wire hot and yellow wire ground. The front stabilizer is black wire hot and frame ground. That being the case, the exposed black wire with the yellow fuse holder should be 12v hot. They are all 10 gauge. I think any of the switch’s would be a good connection point for a solder joint although I haven’t taken them apart yet to look.

We signed up online for Sunday at 10:00 AM as we have a Microair Easystart appointment on Saturday. According to the website, $99.00 includes level 1 and 2.

And a Happy St. Paddy’s to you all as well???. Corned Beef and Cabbage are on the menu at our house today.

Thank you sir! I couldn’t tell what it was after you had field stripped it.

Raspy, What brand and model router are you using for this mod?

Duke & Chris, Do you know the charge state of the batteries at this time? I’m not sure of your storage conditions but you could charge the batteries from your vehicle if you can reach the Ollie batteries with jumper cables. Or you could connect the tow vehicle 7 pin connector to the Ollie and charge the batteries slowly. I’ll be back in Tampa late next week and can come give you a hand while Duke is on the mend if needed.

I found a few Everloc pieces in Springhill. One of them is the shelf ShallowGal found. It’s not going to work for us so I’m going to return it. I’ll hold on to it if you what and see you at the rally or meet locally. Just let me know one way or the other.

That’s a great looking runner! Make the OTT look longer.

It looks great! Which Bealls outlet? And we’re there any left? Mike

I saw this Truma device at the RV show in Tampa last month. It looked interesting and doesn’t have any weather issues as it is kept in your TV or OTT. Will it survive the inevitable drop? $69.99 from Truma. Mike

Congratulations on your new OTT. It’s a very nice looking combo. Come on down to Florida and enjoy the weather. Mike

I guess I should know that I can’t teach some of you old dogs new tricks. Especially when I try to sneak boat hardware by a couple of boat people.? Randy, I am 6’ tall and I have about 4.5” between my knee/leg and the clips. They would also fit in the middle as Canoe12 mentioned. Mike

Thanks for the comments! We are not sure how we are going to use the bed just yet. We will try it both ways, as a full time bed or change it daily. We have to use it some more as it is still very new to us. Heck we might even mod it to twin beds. Time will tell. Mike

I had to find a storage spot for the table legs. The previous owner placed them on the floor and that didn’t work for me. The first thought was standing up in the closet, but I needed a way to control them. I thought of different options to attach them to the wall. When I came up with this solution it dawned on me that under the table seemed an excellent use of some unused space. The PVC blocks are taped on with 3M VHB squares and the clips are screwed to the PVC blocks. Road trip in 3 weeks will verify my solution. Mike

After hanging around this website for 8 or 9 years. I waited patiently for production to begin again and thinking I should have bought the RED one when it was available as a demo model. I was holding out for retirement on March 31, 2018, with serious OTT shopping to follow. But good fortune came my way and I was offered a retirement package in November, effective December 31, 2017. My good fortune continued with an LE2, hull number 193 becoming available in Georgia. An early December trip up "north" resulted in a deposit and pick up was completed on the 15th of January. I would like to thank everyone at Oliver Travel Trailers for the trip around the production floor in 2016. I would also like to thank Larry and Betty, who gave me a tour of an LE2 at an I-75 rest stop north of Tampa in 2015 after they left the RV Show. I would like to thank all of the forum members for their contributions to this newbie's education. I look forward to learning from everyone's experiences, both good and bad. If I ask stupid questions or belabor minor details, be patient, that's who I am. Mike and Krunch or mossemi LE2 Hull 193 "the doghouse" We'll see you in Alabama!

As the new owner of an OTT and a new rv’er, I am on a steep learning curve. I’m trying to read any and all information available and was looking at the Progressive Industries manual and brochure that came with my Oliver last week. And today I started reading John’s post about relocating the remote display and several people have mentioned the possibility of 2 displays. Progressive sells a kit that does just that and it is available on Amazon. The part number is “EMS-RDS”. There is also a YouTube video showing an installation. Mike