hobo

Thanks for that. Good to know even if I don't envision ever having both connected at once. I guess it's the having a wife who worked for Dominion Energy for 40+ years in me that always makes me think of the guys up on the poles trying to restore power when they get the hell shocked out of them because homeowners have hooked up their generators to power their homes but didn't install a transfer switch which prevents that power from being back fed into the grid. It also took me a while to get comfortable with keeping the truck hooked up to the trailer while feeding the trailer with shore power. I don't usually do that but it has happened on an occasion. I was afraid the AC power would go to my truck via the 7 pin cable and fry my electrical system. It won't happen (in theory) but I always feel better when there are zero paths of conduction between the two. Just me I guess. Thanks again though for the info.

Not sure why I would ever have the shore power cord AND the generator hooked up at the same time. It's one or the other. If the shore power is not hooked up then there is no power feedback issue. Curious though if there is in fact a transfer switch somewhere that I'm not aware of in my 2018 LE II.

ScubaRX; Any chance you could get a pic of the bottom of that space and post it as you have it configured AND one without the tray in it? Thanks. Hobo

David, Just wondering (have never seen this space), would it be reasonable to expect that once opened up for a new access door, a false bottom could be put into this space which makes it a separate storage compartment. Seems there is a fair amount of height above the floor level to play with here. Again, I don't current have access to it so I can't tell for sure. Thanks again. Hobo

David, So I understand fully: When you open up the lower portion of the cabinet, does this actually just give you access to the bowels of the basement or is there a floor in the cabinet which allows a separate storage space? Thanks, Hobo

We ordered the Lagun table that fits between the twin beds but have NEVER used it. In fact, it's never even been in the trailer. At this juncture, for our style of camping, we just won't use it. We are going to sell it (cheap) but I want to know how difficult it would be to remove the bracket and put in the extra door front for storage? Would love to hear from someone who has made this conversion. Thanks

Right you are. I missed those. Let me update my list above. Thanks.

We have a 2018, twin bed model. (Hull 414) and here's what we have in ours: (1) above kitchen counter on bottom of cabinet, (1) below curbside bed, (1) inside rear overhead cabinet (above tv), (1) below streetside bed, (1) below dinette seat, (1) below closet door, (0) in bathroom since it's a wet-bath. (1) outside on curbside, There was a time when Oliver would add outlets but I doubt if they do it now. I think they just starting making them standard based on what folks were asking for.

I was in Hohenwald a couple of days ago and they said the lithium batteries would run the AC for about 5 hours. Not sure what the upcharge is for lithium but if it won't get me through a single night, then why bother?

What's the output (watts) on the MURS frequencies?

License required??

At best, the liability release "might" help Oliver Trailer from legal action if a potential customer referred to you gets hurt while viewing a privately owned trailer; but it won't do anything for the party actually showing the trailer. Anything provided by Oliver to a potential customer is ultimately designed to protect Oliver, not you irregardless of the language in the liability release. It's your trailer, your property and therefore you're at the pointy end of the spear if someone wants to claim damages. I seriously doubt if any attorney retained by Oliver Trailers is going to spend anytime trying to defend you in court. As mentioned before, your liability insurance is all you can depend on.

That's what I was thinking too. I've mistakenly not shifted the valve in the bath on at least one occasion and have run close to having allowed the grey water tank to get too full. In both cases, worst that would happen is a little grey water comes into the bathroom floor. Not the level of a "problem" that you would have if black water comes into the living space. Also as pointed out earlier, plain old grey water can be strategically drained off without harm or offense in many situations. When you introduce urine to the mix, you've lost that option. It's easier for me to just empty the urine container which is not a big deal anyway.

Again??! They had a recall about a year ago for another safety issue.

We in fact have cancelled a month long trip due to our concerns. The trip was to originate in TN for a factory service and then from there, we were going to head west to spend time in NM and AZ. Then we were going to attend the rally in AL on the return trip back to VA. Our main intent was to visit some friends of ours in the Phoenix area that have two youngsters. Well, as a courtesy to them, and because we are finding more and more facilities, services and parks are shutting down, we are extremely uncomfortable being so far away from home under those circumstances. We'll do it later when we don't have to worry about anything more complex than how many bottles and what kind of wine to take along.

John, Related/unrelated; The lids to your jerry cans look interesting. My guess is they are much easier to use than the standard screw on lids as you wouldn't have replaced them otherwise. Can you enlighten me on those items? Thanks

I might want them to protect the concrete in my storage building where I park Hobo. I'm thinking of putting down a nice finish on the concrete for ease of cleaning and don't want the metal pads damaging it.

I don't see the Oliver listed on the ordering website. Which model did you purchase ? I assume you used three? Finally, best source to procure? Thanks

We use these for stabilizing the front corners of the trailer once level. These are very good too for jacking up the side of the trailer for tire/wheel removal repair. Beauty of these as they are both an adjustable jack stand AND a hydraulic jack. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would look for another tech. If it was running before, his statement about "not enough wires running to ever work" is obviously bogus. I'd start looking for a more reputable repair shop.

While on this subject, I have a hard time getting my cover to screw on evenly and smoothly. Seems like it is being-cross threaded at times. Was wondering if a lubricant of some nature might make this easier. Any suggestions?

Could be. I could only see it from the Perspective of a Virginia customer.

I believe Good Sam Insurance is actually underwritten by Progressive.

At the rally last year (or perhaps the year before) I noted a couple of folks who had put a small wire tether on their access port covers. At least one person advised me that they actually used the safety wires for light fixtures as their source of their tethers. They also advised that they had a few of them and would send me one if I sent them a note after the rally. Well of course, I forgot who this person was so I am seeking to find that person or otherwise, have anyone on the forum advise the best way to accomplish the task at hand. Thanks, Hobo

No, just a single portable tank will suffice for both. They're going to end up going down the same hole in the ground anyway.