Geronimo John

I have since updated the post. The 5" increase is from my Houghton A/C height. JD's remeasured and it is 3.25" higher than the Dometic Penguin II. In our case, there is no way I could back it into our storage area. Especially since there is a ramp at the entrance and that kicks the area behind Ollie's axles up even further. So if height of your storage areas is close, it would be wise to double check. GJ

OH MY! I'll keep a better eye on the grandkiddo's for sure now. Maybe raise them all when they are around.

Once a year I would spend an hour in Houston and Dallas to remove the exterior screen and motor/fan to get at both sides of the condensor to get the big stuff. Then gently vaccum pollen and smaller stuff from both sides. Then to use a coil cleaner, and light water pressure to rinse from the inside all the caustic cleaner and any fines. In Salt Lake Citu UT, I only needed to vaccuum the outside and gently rinse. Since we only use the Ollie A/C sparingly, I have not popped the hatch yet. Need to add that to my "Do Lis" for this summer. Thanks for the reminder!

Yep. It is sweet for sure. As stated. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ YES! As stated in our combined list of limitations (Not needing a Heat Pump, Height and Very High Temperatures), I agree. In fact I'll take it a step further. Within those limitations, I would also state "Even for those willing and able to modify the Houghtons", this is a great unit to strongly consider." Then to take it a step further I would add "And at a much more realistic cost!" +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ JD: As far as using a hose to spray thru the condenser coil to try to flow the gunk out the weeps.... You can try it. But it certainly is not effective in all of the places I have lived and maintained. That is why the vast majority of outside coils use an updraft design. It leaves the gunk on the outside of the coils where it can be gently cleaned. General design rule is to provide the Technicians access to both sides of both coils. This is esssential for proper maintenance.... that is necessary to maintain the unit's efficiency. So I stand firm that it is at least a NI, and for a most a PP. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok, you asked for it! 🙂 As a ME, there is a lot to like about this unit. And just a few things to wish for. But the two I identified above are not one of them. In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat. The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side. That is close enough to strike out that wish item. Now for my video take away notes: (G = Good, NI = Not Ideal, PP = Potential Problem for some owners) PP Some owners have height restrictions. This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic Houghton. A hard deal killer for some owners for sure. Also it will have a greater challenge with wind drag at highway speeds and lower hanging limbs and bridges. But if you follow an 18 wheeler box trailer, they will clear all that out of your way. G Dual fans G Squirrel cage supply air fan G All copper coils and tubing G Brushless motors G Cap tube control system. EXCELLENT. G Shroud not necessary to test run the unit. Nice for those doing maintenance. NI Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing. Not so good for maintenance. PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common. NI Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors. But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling. Good at high settings. NI Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337 watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts. This is still better than what non variable speed units can do and is low enough that most quality 2,000 watt generators can accommodate for this unit as it has a near zero surge on start-up or compressor cycling. G The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply. In fact, they are OUTSTANDING PP The unit on max setting only produces 9,000 BUT of a/c. On a max sun, 100+ degree F Day where we often camp, that low output will take more time to cool down an OE2. Would suggest starting the unit on max an hour before arriving at your camp site. Your spousal unit will appreciate you're thinking ahead. If an owner does not have a problem with that 14" height and does not camp in extreme heat and sun locations, I think that this tested unit is an excellent choice. But as exterior temp increases beyond what 9,000 BTU can handle it would be a challenge. For many owners just starting the cool down before occupancy, it would mitigate the lower capacity. With a larger compressor and minor mods to increase the capability it would become an outstanding choice even for me! GJ

With an internal drain and remote thermistor and they would OWN the RV a/c world. GJ

Back in December Dragon Fly took a torpedo. Sadly Dragon Fly did not appear to take any effection efforts to get ahead of the situtation. Now it looks like Will sent them a full spread of them. In light of zero response, their reputation is going down with the ship.....

Patriot/CRM: Thanks for posting Will's latest video. Pretty much substantiates my claim of melting plastic as a source. But it does not explain all the other issues he is pointing out. Sad and potentially dangeros situtation. If you have BB's, it is a must see video. GJ

Wow. Going to reassess my BB's now. GJ

JD: More than a few owners have experienced window leakage onto bedding. None of us are tip-toeing around after having to spend a lot of time with wet bedding. The serious consequences can't be ignored. We are pushing the limits on ideas to stop the leaks. But we stop short of your 3,000 PSI pressure washer or spending thousands to acquire the newly designed windows that give less natural ventilation. I am thrilled that your trailer can withstand any storm or pressure washer without leakage. I can affirm that our trailer's can not withstand any storm, and most of us would shy away from letting you clean our trailers with your great machine. However, if you would please teleport it to Hawaii, I would LOVE to borrow it for about a week! I promise to return it shortly thereafter. 🙂 John

Thanks for the flowers. Just for clarity my post of "Use 40 PSI on Paved Roads and 25 - 30 off road" is for the trailer tire pressures on/off good paved roads. In reality, I do go off road on occarions where the road is graded and pretty well maintained with tires at 40 PSI. But usually I am going less than 20 MPH. If I need to go real slow, or go into 4WD in locker engaged with low range and gears 1 or 2, then I for sure air down to the 25 PSI. Easy to do with my 20V Dewaly air compressor.

Strange that your spare is not the exact tire as your 4 on roat Ollie Tires. Likely your 2017 had replacements along the way. Ditto with mine.

Cool App. thanks for the post. For a newer owner to complete, from my Ollie Keeper Info document, below is the tire info for the 2019 (16" rims) for half the info needed to see what the delta in height will be: Factory Tires: Michelin Defender LTX MS2, LT225/75R16 Light Truck 80 PSI 10 Ply Rated, 10-Ply E Rated, Speed Rating R (106 MPH) Use cold 40 PSI on Paved Roads. 25 - 30 PSI off road Load Index =115R Load Rating 2680# Max Press. Cold: 80 PSI. GJ

Quite an improvement! Your 5.9 turbo Cummins can be "tuned with quite a few mods" to rev beyond 4000 RPM and giving over 900 horsepower. I would not recommend it, but pulling your almost 7.000 pound Ollie going upgrade, you would likely smoke my EcoBoost naked. GJ

Sorry I'm a bit behind on this thread. On my 2019 F-150, the 2" Anderson Receiver with 2 5/16" ball is slightly smaller than the Ford receiver. The hitch pin/hole are right sized. So the "Slack" I see when jacking my Ollie up to undo Anderson chains is actually a rotational arch with the hitch pin and hole acting as a swing point. Not slop back and forth. This arch is actually beneficial as when I see it swing those few degrees, I know it's time to stop lifting. GJ

It's been several years ago so a bit foggy. But I recall that our blinds were a bit defective and OTT sent us some new ones with clips. I reused the old four clips and added two extra for grins. Put the other two in my "Junk and Precious Stuff drawer in the kitchen. Six clips ended my falling blinds syndone. GJ

Ron and JD: The above 23.5" to 25" recommendation was for our older trailers with the larger wheel diameter. Sam's 2025 trailer I believe has 15" rims. So likely the target is not the same as those with 16" tires. I also agree that a bit low on the front of Ollie is also advantageous, especially out west were speeds tend to be higher. I agree with both JD and Dave that for setting up the systems for travel.... Stand back and take a gander. For those of us with older F-150's, we have found that a pair of Bilstein 5100's shocks and air bags on the rear axle have made a wonderful improvement in our driving experiences. GJ

I use them into all the weeps, and then along the trough's both ways. To get to the inside weeps, for most of them you have to go "fishing" thru the outside weep and left and right to find the inner weeps. Finally I cut some of the 18" into 4+ inch small pipe cleaners bend them and stuff one into each weep. I for years thought it was bogus, but now believe it does help with drainage. Something like capillary action. Since they look a bit dorky, I use them when expecting Texas sized "Turd Floating Gully Washers". After the storm I pull them out and they are stored in a zip lock bag for the next time. Got the idea here on the forum by a wiser than I owner! GJ AI Capillary action (or capillarity) is the ability of a liquid to flow in narrow spaces, like tubes or porous materials, against gravity, driven by the forces of adhesion (liquid sticking to the surface) and cohesion (liquid sticking to itself), combined with surface tension. This "wicking" effect allows water to move up plant roots, colors to travel up paper towels, and liquids to fill tiny crevices, making it vital for plant life and everyday tasks like using a sponge

JD to answer your points, I took the liberty of adding A, B, C, D in front of them. A. I can assure you that our vintage windows can and do leak, and that they do cause damage (espcally to beddng). Short of an oak tree taking out the window frame, the storm itself does not cause damage. It is the accumulation of "stuff" in the track that blocks the weeps and that causes damage. B. Maybe you are blessed! Or maybe in AZ you don't see much rain! But looking at it from the "other side", why have so many owner installed rain gutters to help mitigate the flow of water INTO their trailers? C. I use and posted using a lot of water carefully from the inside trough to the outside trough to the outside of the trailer. You know the weeps are functional when you add water to the inside trough and it flows to the outside wall of the trailer. The cleaning process is working when you see the system drainng well. GJ It helps to raise/lower the trailer tongue jack to let gravity assist in the effort. GJ

Maybe OTT did, maybe not. After all, more than a few folks don't have city water or well water where they store their Ollie. For them, maybe not.

Yep, you got options! Love it. GJ

Chris: I positively think that your choice is the best Alcan option for the vast majority of OE2 owners looking to have a reasonable ride with the best springs. I like that they hedged the bet with giving you the fifth leaf just in case you go wild and jump into the 10%er's team. Our Ollie is out west in the mountains a lot. Since I just this past year changed to the heavier higher rated Dexter's, I'll likely just go with the 5200's to get the 12" brakes, but will stick with the Dexters as they are already installed. GJ PS what shocks did they use?

Duhh..... They were undersprung for a 6,000 pound OE2. At 7,000 pound for sure the running gear would be stresed to the max and over the limit with about any G-forces from the road surfaces. So I guess I need to include in the 10%er's anyone near 7,000 pounds should also consider going with the super springs. As in YESTERDAY. But at 6,000 pounds and 560# tongue weight, the Dexter PB4's (2400 pound rated) seem to be a good choice. Especially at $60 a leaf vs $149 each as listed above. GJ

Part 2 Setting aside (Not Fully Removing) the white seal along the bottom part of the window is a good start. Then clean the inside trough, but as indicated above I don't recommend removing the black window guide. If it has slid all the way to the corner, I try to move it back towards the latch a few inches. This gives me a barrier free section for water flow to under the black window glide. It also gives me a way to flush water under the black guide to flush out dirt and gunk. My leaks almost always manifest themselves as an overflow over the inside track and down the wall to the sleeping area. This overflow is generally due to lack of flow to the outside of the track caused by the inside trough weeps to the outside trough being restricted, or rarely due to the water not flowing thru the black window track with the holes. (see above) Once the water gets into the outside track, it departs via the outside facing weeps of the inside trough. Sadly the two sets of weeps are not aligned. As such it complicates cleaning the inside weeps. This prompts the use of the 18" pipe cleaners (PC). Poke them into the outside weeps and get them cleaned and flush this track from the outside. Then use the pipe cleaners to scrub out the entire length of this lower track. GO both ways thru all the lower outside weeps. Now use the PC's to find and clean the inside weeps between the two trough's. Clean and flush from the inside trough to move junk thru and to the outside trough. Then flush the outside and clean the outside track again. Low hose pressure and control is a must to prevent inside flooding. My home made Hot Water Tank Flush wand works nicely for this control.

I don't have the courage to do that. It is very delicate and difficult to change if damaged. I do lightly brush it though and rinse well with Dawn/hot water to clean and flush well. Best to relocate the bedding out of harms way, and have a friend inside with towells in case of an overflow. GJ