Geronimo John

I was reading John Davies post for improving the propane tank hoses and it reminded me of a mod I made several years ago. My shorter OEM Propane tanks leaves a lot of excess all-thread to spin up and down at every tank service. I thought about cutting the all-thread shorter, but discarded the idea as the next owner down the road may be a cold weather camper and want the taller tanks. My solution was to grab out of my garage a pair of washers and some tubing that would fit over the all-thread. I cut the tubing to leave about an inch of all-thread showing. One washer on each side of the tubing and I only have to spin off the wing nut about an inch. Saves time and knuckle damage. Cost: $0.00 GJ

Now that works. Short. Easy to Remember = Effective Communication! Thanks!

I read this as running the flipped axle over a curb to raise it and correcting the issue. I also read this as running the flipped axle over a 4X4 to raise it and correcting the issue. So it appears to me that both John D and topgun2 agree in the approach by raising the flipped axle. HOWEVER, In Jim and Frances video at 1:50 he shows and states "Put it (The jack) under the axle that is correct" and then shows raising the correct axle and the "Wonky/Flipped" axle bangs into place. Ok guys, you now have me confused. Will both approaches work? Please clarify. GJ PS: Scotty: I agree with NOT jacking under the axles!

I was thinking JB weld and Super glue... LOL Just kidding. Right call on the cut out vs. trailer disassembly. GJ

If they are available, I would love the door hinges and control board. will PM you . GJ

Santa: For Christmas can I get the Tall Boy version of the TruckFridge that would fill the whole cavity?

JD I think this may work better for you. It is an aluminum heat shield that is adhesive backed heat barrier rated up to 2000 degrees. Capable of reflecting 90% of radiant heat GJ

Yep. That sounds exactly like the wonderful idea you posted previously. 🙂 GJ

I am firmly in the camp that says exposed utilities that can be fully hidden show a lack of planning by the engineer or contractor. So, on this one issue we diverge. That said, I have t agree that the hide job was well done!

This is why I like our Owner's Forum, different ideas on how each owner has improvements for their trailer. I am 100% in the "Increase air flow to the Bathroom" team. I like both Maniacs' high adjustable vent, and the low vent to the basement proposed by Rivernerd. I really like the idea of adjustable vents for both. Summer, use only the high vent to avoid putting mosture into the basement. Cold conditions use only the low vent to help heat that area a bit. GJ.

Elimination of the power and data charge points from the nightstand IMHO was a very sad bean counter decision. We use ours a LOT. My condolences to the owners suffering without the night stand utility ports and having to hang cords not only in the kitchen and dinning area, but now also the rear of the trailer. Frankly I would prefer all the high power points to be moved to lower locations where code would allow. Up high under the upper cabinets is much less useful most of the time for us.

At first I, like most of the other owners above, I disapproved of the toy hauler post. After I read your post, I had to change my perspective. The article was posted in the Blog. Not the How To, DYI, or other technical sections. In my minds eye, the blog is for a wide variety of posts such as: Cooking tips Camping recommendations Driving routes What are you reading, listening to or doing for the holidays Alternative life styles etc. So, my angst is not with it being posted, or it being posted in the Blog. Heck, one day down the road one of my kiddo's may be thinking of buying a toy hauler and I may just check back and search the blog for the topic. I just wish I could figure out how to stop notifications from the blog category (Only) when I don't have the time to enjoy the content of that resource. GJ

I like this one. It plugs in at the USB port on the nightstand between the beds. So no cords hanging down. The "Amazon Basics" brand stuff has always worked well for us. GJ

As many of us know, its real hard to plan an Ollie mod when you will not even see your Ollie for the winter. Let alone from 4,000 miles and eight months as is our case. Prior to your most recent note, I was not aware that the Dometic Drain Pan spacer blocks are compressible. This shoots a huge hole in all of the above. I thank you for taking the time to mentor this effort, but it appears to have been "a fools errand". Hopefully you will fare better on the Set 1/Set 2 issue. GJ

Vic and Wanda: Please also update your signature line with your trailer and tow vehicle info. This makes it less time consuming in answering questions. See mine below, or Mike and Carrol's: Thank you and great to have you on board! GJ

It's tough getting older. My replacement knees and thinner butt makes suspension maintenance a lot less fun than it used to be. But having a nice bucket and one of these really helps it to be a lot less of a PITA! Seriously. 🙂 I store my boat throw cushion as a pad to my Honda EU2200. The generator is lashed down in the curbside rear corner of the truck bed. The cushion sets vertically between the side of the generator and the side of the truck bed. Best part is I can remember where I put it! GJ

Closed always when not occupied to reduce UV damage is my recommendation. GJ

For sure. Would be interesting to know if there are any other Houghton owners with a Set 1 (Fan turns off with the compressor cycling) and when they purchased theirs. But this post and a few above would be better included into SteveCr's thread "Houghton Humidity Issues" thread. CJ

For sure. Would be interesting to know if there are any other Houghton owners with a Set 1 (Fan turns off with the compressor cycling) and when they purchased theirs.

Might be worth the question. But if it as half as complex as the drip plans have turned out to be, it's not worth the effort. But then it may just be swapping a wire on a relay. GJ

As it was designed to do. However, for owners traveling to MUCH warmer states, where summers see temperatures often in the 100's and at times well over 110 degrees, a 9K BTU unit in an OE2 would not work well at all. Hence the middle ground of 11K Btu recommendation for trailers with the upgraded? insulation package and owners that don't go out there where it is real hot. As an owner with an "Older" 2018 that does not have the rumored (Yet to be confirmed) insulation upgrade, that is "out there" all the time where it gets real hot, even 11K BTU unit likely is undersized. Hence my decision to go with the 13K BTU Houghton. As has been said before, each owner's relevant experience is based upon their use of their trailer. My hope is that those looking to go with a different A/C is to take our recommendations with knowing where and what we expect to see in heat loads to the AC when making their decisions. Thanks for your point of view. PS: Sure wish I knew in detail what that rumored insulation "update" is. It may even sway me to ponder for a second or two about a 11K BTU in 110+ areas where I have shore power that can allow me to run the unit 24/7. But then, an hour or two to cool down then would need to be considered too. I hope you are not now as confused as I am. 🙂 GJ

Likely for sure. But I best not start "Another" project. Besides I think you were the BEST and most knowledgeable person to post on this thread! Just look at those pictures of your second spare unit! 🙂 Gotcha! GJ

LOL. I know the feeling as the husband of a Masters level Electrical Engineer. She is a special rare bird in our vintage.

This was discussed in a previous thread. For hot summers, likely a 9.5 unit would be too small for most owners. A perfect solution would be an 11K BTU unit, but Houghton does not have a low profile one. But the fan would need to be cycled with the compressor regardless. Part of that discussion included thoughts concerning insulation changes OTT made recently. I would love to know some specific's about that topic! As far as energy consumption, a smaller "right sized" unit running longer will provide better humidity control than a larger unit run/stop. ESPECIALLY if it is a Set 2 Houghton unit! And in doing so generally uses less energy.

I call your attention to the last paragraph of my late December post: So it appears we all pretty much agree that the problem is humidity evaporating off the coil due to the fan running continuously. The cause is a design change by Houghton, likely to benefit Aussie owners who have far less of a humidity issue than we do in the USA. Since the question can not be answered by RecPro, time to bypass them and ask Houghton directly what specifically needs to be done to switch our Type 2 units to Type 1? I'm focused on the condensate issue. Someone want to tackle this issue directly? GJ