bhncb

Before raising the curb side, first drain the black tank because it benefits from being tilted in the opposite direction or street-side high.

Regarding using the rear levelers for jacking the trailer, I noticed someplace that Oliver has recently reduced their published specification for the Barker 3000 to 2500#. This puts further emphasis on their recommendations against using them for this purpose.

That's good advice with the Norcold, which can unexpectedly end up in DC mode. Not an issue with the Dometic though where DC can only be selected manually.

Turn off the circuit breaker on the power pole until reliable power is restored.

Beyond the appropriate cable and lugs mentioned, you'll need: Cable cutter For clean square cuts use one like the Temco TH0002 Stripper/slitter The rotary style like in the photo work pretty good for larger diameter cables. There's a broad price and quality range. Crimper For battery cables I prefer a lever style like the Temco TH0020 over the hydraulic others have mentioned. Hydraulics typically require three hands for larger lugs and don't provide any tactical feed back making over or under crimps inevitable. Heat shrink tubing and heat source. Thick wall adhesive lined tubing specifically for battery cables is widely available in black and red. A decent heat gun can be expensive but a small butane torch is effective with practice. Recommended option for lowest resistance crimp connections: Rosin core 60/40 solder Use large diameter solder after crimping lugs. Watch how to video (first part)

Perhaps a tent or maybe a pickup camper would better suit your needs.😄 Tire, or axle bearing, failures are the most prevalent breakdown cause while towing. By checking wheel lug torque daily, along with tire pressures, you're also given to inspect the entire running gear for anything obvious. It's just best practices and insurance that provides comfort at the end of the day while sitting around the fire. Your other assessments are probably well placed though and yes, position indicators on wheel lugs is widely used/often required on commercial big rigs.

Bluesea has two part numbers for the bar, one with and without the cover. It would be worth the time to call Oliver and check though since they used to be covered.

To be clear, I wasn't trying to be critical. I don't know about RVIA, but ABYC would not require a cover given the distance to the circuit breaker connection. From a personal preference perspective though, I'm with John. There are a number of nearby sources for ground potential and one particular conductor that I addressed is the outside shower flex hose. But I'm sure Oliver probably looked at it as a way to save a few dollars and you can't fault them for that.

Just curious. It's not required but my 2018 came with a cover.

Andrew, Didn't Oliver put a cover on that buss bar?

Except for the quarter-turn. The fine mesh filter screens by themselves restrict complete drainage.

If you follow the Oliver winterizing procedure, obviously this last inlet wouldn't need attention. I don't and only use it when adding water from jug or sanitizing the system.

Winterizing (Boondocking)

Water hose connection Inlets.

You don't need to pump antifreeze in this one. Just cock or remove the filter screen washer briefly to allow any residual water to drain from the line up to the check valve. I drain all four of mine this way and then leave the plugs loose if not traveling.

Take a look at the plumbing layout schematic in the owners manual. It'll make sense then.

Agree with the handyman quality somewhat. I'd be first in line for some Stickley quality pieces if they became available.

Oliver used to offer a wood accent upgrade but they must have run into a supplier issue. I ordered this option on my 2018 but the trailer was delivered with an obvious finish flaw on one of the panels. After a couple of attempts by Oliver to rectify, I ended up having to refinish them myself. In spite of this, I still like them and wish they could have resolved their issue.

"Oliver's m.o. for the past two or three years has been to carefully study what owners want, have researched, implemented, are satisfied with, etc., and then do something different."

Studor: Original and gold standard of AAVs.

And if you don't have the composting toilet, be sure to keep an eye on the black tank level. Because of how the vent is plumbed, a significant percentage of water from the garden hose will end up in there. If it is daubers, hopefully the bulk of the nest will be accessible for hand removal out the top and not have to be flushed down into the drain system.

It's actually incorrect slang for an Air Admittance Valve. They are an easy substitute for having an actual vent connection where one isn't practical. I first ran into them in the 70s when boats were being required to retrofit waste holding tanks.

I should have read the entire thread first but.. Since you're at least operational with the downgraded 200AH battery configuration, I'd take it to service as is and let them advise knowing that you want to upgrade to LI asap. If you're dead set on the LI upgrade, the cost for an interim AGM "fix" is relatively insignificant. Another option is to just live with the 200AH limitation until the time for LI comes. No/limited inverter usage?

I'm assuming you mean Elite II. The BB batteries are GC2 in case dimension only so you'll have lots of opportunity to get creative with making a first class installation. Before you rip into things, have your layout plan set and all the cable, terminals, tools etc you're going to need to make all jumpers and re-terminations. Take a look at the following webpage for some unique battery cable lug shapes. https://www.imperialsupplies.com/browse/electrical/battery-supplies/battery-terminals/magnalugs

Yep. Less air space in the tank so less negative pressure. If the valve can't open, or is restricted, it's just like not having an adequate vent near the sink trap. The shower drain on the other hand is so close to the tank, and directly connected to the main vent stack, that it doesn't occur there.