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That sounds like it may be a stuck cheater valve.

Priced a Kimberly Kruiser? Ouch!

Sorry I didn't clarify earlier. I've edited my post above to note this discrepancy. All the information for an Elite is in the same place just use for the 5.2K axle you've noted and 12"x 2" brakes for the seals. The seals cross reference to National/Timken p/n 412920

I am adding clarification to point out that the response below is directed at the request by Hobo, who has an LEII. These part numbers provided have no applicability to an LE, the original subject of this thread. The Dexter axle owners manual is available in the university components section. Page 81 has a table of bearing and race p/n for each axle model. Industry standard p/n for the 3.5K axle are: Inner bearing cone/race: L68149 / L68111 Outer bearing cone/race: L44649 / L44610 Timken combines both the cone and race into a set. Their p/n are SET17 and SET4 respectively. On page 79 there is a table of seal p/n. The 10" x 2-1/4" brake size uses Dexter p/n K71-303-00. This number cross references to National/Timken p/n 473336

Check the grey drain valve to be sure it is opening all the way. Compare it to the back-flow valve for the shower.

You won't find any production trailer manufacturer willing to make one-off modifications this extensive. Oliver and others have limited to no engineering capabilities, instead relying on component suppler services, like Dexter, for this expertise. For an Elite, you're talking about a complete sub-frame redesign.

This is actually the "number one problem" why the hole in mine is still empty. I haven't found an alternative that's even close.

Thinking I must have missed something, I just went back and reread this entire topic. Enough questions have been raised to justify keeping it alive for awhile. Lithium compatibility, vis a vis chargers, often means just leaving the spigot wide open and letting the BMS handle charging requirements. Since 2020 MY, documentation has been sketchy and reverse engineering the U is inconclusive. It seems as though the PD 9000 converters are now used to some extent but there is nothing other than the PD 4000 for distribution mentioned. I would expect to see a converter-less 5000 in its place. It wouldn't be a surprise if the multiple charging sources are just left to fight it out. At least with lithium, one source can be made dominant.

That makes the Xantrex inverter/charger the better solution.

Only the very latest models of the PD 4000 have a switch for Lithium compatibility mode. I'm not aware of the other two options you mentioned but am also not sure of any value to non-automatic charging.

Yes, the ZAMP controller has a configuration setting for Lithium battery type. If equipped, the DC charger (converter) section in the Progressive Dynamics power distribution center has to be replace with a Lithium compatible model.

Isn't that's how they're supposed to work? If you decide to replace, order two so you'll have a spare for the next time. Pursuing a warranty replacement will just raise your blood pressure. Pull the fuse and repurpose the hole.

Since your symptoms have changed, per your description at least, there is always the possibility of an isolated system malfunction with your truck. Since the issue with LED lights is so old and widely known, your dealer may have just jumped on this as their easiest excuse. The adapter results should be all telling and provide further ammunition, one way or the other.

And GM thinks they're going to be a serious player in the high tech electric vehicle market? Does GM have a "Chevy Cares" hot line like Jeeps? If so, ask them your question. This issue was widely resolved by most manufactures almost 10 years ago. The European fakery adapter may get around your problem but this is a GM shortcoming.

No, the Zamp controller does not have an independent Load output feature, which yes does reduce the battery charging output. However, controllers with this feature typically switch and/or regulate the Load output to prioritize battery charging so the independent load cannot overwhelm the controller's ability to first maintain the batteries.

So the top of the receiver opening is 22 inchs? Add 2-1/2" for the ball and your at 24-1/2" to the top of the ball. My LE II is 23-1/2" to the top of the coupler socket and 600# will drop my 3500 3/4". If your F350 sag is similar, seems to me a 0-1"rise would be a good starting point.

Have you considered a front mount receiver?

Sorry. My comment was based on the adapter/extender you linked in the earlier post. These are in fact limiting.

Given the age of your LEII, and your location, I'd tow it back to Hohenwald and have them replace the toilet. In the long run, you'll save both time and aggravation.

These receiver adapters/extenders limit the hitch capacity to 3500# so using one with 7000# GTW is out of the question.

I believe they started switching over within 2020 production. It also requires a second coax but the connector is a Motorola style so you'd have to adapt. I was thinking in terms of a replacement for my Winegard Roadstar which only has the one RG 6. For my LEII, it would be more difficult to pull an additional even though it could go directly to the radio. The Air360 is actually smaller than it looks and imo wouldn't be too obtrusive, going from a Kingdome. But, it sounds like the Magnadyne may be your best bet.

I missed your original post on this. A few things to consider: The Shakespeare mount may not hold up on an RV installation. Best to check with their product support. The Glomex line of omnis look nicer and have more robust mounts. These are popular with the go-fasts. I believe Hodges carries them. Seems to me the Air360 is a good choice but it requires a second coax for the AM/FM antenna section. Course you'll also need an ethernet cable for the wifi option if included. The footprint may cover the Kingdome mounting holes, making for a cleaner install.

https://magnadyne.com/magnadyne-roof-mount-omni-directional-antenna/

Practically, payload is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating minus Curb Weight. Technically, it is whatever the Tire and Loading placard on the driver's door jamb says after: The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed In your case, the 2017 Jeep Trailhawk CW is published as 4869. Based on the 6500 GVWR, max payload should be 1631 minus the weight of factory optional equipment like the rock rails and engine block heater. Don't try to resolve the difference between this calculation and the figure on the placard because the placard calculation was determined by the legal department, based on the original equipment tires, and has little engineering basis. Generally, using the placard number is advisable. I'll spare the subjective on capability but what "related" capacity information are you looking for?

When given a choice between a 30 or 50, I always check the condition of the receptacles and use the better one, or the 50 if it's a tossup. 50s generally provide a better connection and will induce less voltage loss under load.