bhncb

Why not reinstall it and just leave the AC breaker off until needed?

Are you plugged in to AC or charging from solar?

I'm not the most qualified to answer but can provide some pertinent advise. First, regarding the number of plugins, the refrigerator should have it's own circuit and outlet somewhere behind and below the sink. You can verify this by checking your AC electrical panel for a separate circuit breaker labeled as such. Access for the hold down appears to only be possible through the vent hole with that plate removed. First protect the plate with a couple layers of masking tape. Then, using light pressure so as not to spin the rivets, drill just through the rivet heads with a 1/8" bit. If necessary, you should then be able to pop the head off using a small screwdriver and punch out the remaining sections of rivet. The life of this microwave may have been shortened due to less than adequate venting for heat. In choosing a replacement select one designed to be builtin with appropriate trim. Don't try to mimic the original installation purely for esthetic reasons. Installation may require enlarging the opening so research the replacement size specifications and installation instructions carefully before purchasing. Hopefully one of the old dogs have been through the procedure already and will chime in.

On the other hand, cooking brats on the grill in 30 mph wind driven snow is a blast.

When can we expect pictures of your install? Soon I'll be looking to replace the AGM in my Sprinter with a Li and this product is definitely in the running.🤙

I'd like to hear some input from @LiFeBlueBatteryon this but from your description, it seems to me as thought the ZAMP controller is overcharging a bit or maybe not responding fast enough.

I have never used mine. For my small gas grill, I bought everything needed to be able to use it but have found it more convenient to just buy the small bottles. Typically, being able to move the grill out of the wind would require too much hose to be practical. Also, since I camp mainly in cold temperatures, conservation of my furnace supply is more important.

I expect the bulk of differences to be on the AC side. Look for the PI EMS output to feed the inverter AC input through a standalone 30 amp main breaker, probably near the EMS. The inverter AC output (transfer switched) should go directly to the 30 amp main breaker in the PD5000 PDC as noted by NCeagle. For non-lithium models, the EMS output will go directly to the PD5000 main with a branch circuit suppling the inverter AC input, or external DC converter if there is no inverter. Out of curiosity I would be interested in seeing any pictures of the lithium DC side anyone cares to provide. Specifically battery cutoff types and locations.

There is no way Oliver could begin production without having had wiring diagrams. Somebody has them. I wonder how receptive a third-party shop that agrees to perform warranty repairs would be. Hope they get a straight t&m agreement. Given 2021 production status, and this service department comment, if customer available 2020 diagrams haven' t appeared by now, the plans seem obvious.

Do you know how long it's been since the unit was decalcified? When the error occurs, are you on city or pump water supply?

And, the premiss behind smart alternator systems is that a vehicle's battery does not unnecessarily need to be maintained at 100% SOC, 100% of the time. A more practical SOC level reduces demand on the charging system, which save energy to drive it, which.......

But the converter output voltage is regulator variable between 13.3 -14.7V, depending on temperature, and actual wattage is dependent by engine speed. This makes it equivalent to a smart alternator. Just running a bigger wire without a DC-DC changing control device at the end isn't going to overcome the low voltage issue.

Leaving the charge line disconnected may have been advised by Lifeblue to shield them from liability for battery damage due to inadvertent discharge by leaving a tow vehicle connected. Short sighted but certainly the cheapest way out.

😂

Ok but, it's all about available payload after subtracting the hitch load. How much "stuff" do you want to take along? Tow ratings make good marketing fodder but don't mean much beyond adequate .

I think that by ordering the Lithium Pro package, you might be better off weight wise than with the AGMs and no inverter. Opps sorry. Elite 1

Okay, there is no way to sugar coat this. The wrong hangers were used and your concern will be realized, on schedule. The only acceptable remedy is to replace these hangers. I'm confident OTT will be receptive to this.

Regarding your rear spring hanger picture: Are the hangers both sides missing the bushing between the ears?

I read that as more of a facetious response. In spite of their choice, most riveters are capable of seeing the dangers of this setup.

When I first started reading this I though it was a joke. Then the pictures downloaded.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/charging-lithium-batteries-from-our-tv-217112.html

Practicalities and pitfalls aside, there would be no need to tie into the e-torque 48V because a highly efficient conversion to 12v has already been done by the system with more than ample capacity available. The primary issue of getting amperage to the trailer batteries via the 7-way would still exist.

It would be interesting to know if the breakaway switch for the electric brakes is still being fed by the now lithium batteries. And, is the 12 volt 7-way charge line connected to anything at all like maybe a dedicated breakaway battery/charger. Just removing your vehicle fuse may not be necessary or desirable.

I'd suggest you lean on Oliver for further clarification of their statement. The issue is charging the combination of Lithium trailer and lead acid truck batteries from a single charging source as AndrewK has described above. There are fairly easy solutions available but Oliver should be incorporating something as part of the Lithium Pro package.

I suspect the Ram does not have a disconnect relay for the 12v battery line to the 7-way connector. As a result, the parasitic loads in the truck are also pulling current from the trailer connection. The trucks 12V systems battery is isolated from the 48V e-torque starter battery by a converter so this issue will be there whether e-torque equipped or not. You could add a Schottky diode isolator to the charge line in the trailer, but the expense may be hard to justify when just remembering to disconnect costs nothing.