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To be clear, are you referring to the heat duct registers with the thermostat mode set to furnace or the overhead outlets on A/C when in heat strip mode?

To clarify, the optional KTT mattresses are natural latex and not synthetic memory foam. They are finished with typical mattress ticking as shown within the optional upgrades & add-ons webpage. This option only replaced the upholstered cushions in the main sleeping position(s), either floor plan. The standard foam upholstered cushions for the convertible side dinette remain. We chose the KTT option because, to us, they were more comfortable and provide better support. Only you can make this determination however. Having slept on them for as long as four months straight, we have had no regrets. They are significantly heavier than the standard cushions, which makes wrestling them for makeup or compartment access somewhat more difficult. Whichever solution you decide on, be sure to include the Hypervent Condensation Prevention Matting upgrade.

In order to run the A/C from the inverter, you will need to opt for the Lithium Pro package with 3000 W Xantrex. The 2000W version included with the Solar Pro Package only powers the GFCI protected duplex outlets.

The correct flange nuts are prevailing torque locking. Single use is the best practice but I always use a medium thread locker as an additional safeguard even when nuts are new.

Seat both bolts in a link prior to installing. Lay a link on the jaws of a large vice. Open the jaws just enough to allow the bolt shanks to slip freely between. Then drive the bolts home.

No. It is one of the cables that comes in though the front of the battery box. Here's a picture of my 2018 I found. Third one up from the bottom on the left. Stiff refers to insulation not cable size.

The stiffer black one, which might actually be yellow, that's attached to the post adapter on the inside front battery.

It’s hard to see but looking at the picture of your power panel, it appears that all the AC breakers are shut off. If this isn’t the case, do you have shore power AC to the refrigerator and air conditioner? Given the nominal values being displayed by the EMS, everything between and including your source outlet and the trailer panel connection has been eliminated.

Ray, Have you reset the 20 amp circuit breaker for the outlets in the power center under the dinette?

Use one quite a bit. No problems. The PI doesn't notice it and not sure it's all that finicky. It does what it's supposed to do, quite well.

The cost of antifreeze?

My original though was partly in jest knowing this. Condensation following initial cold startup could also be a problem.

I'm curious as to how you ended up with so much dead space under the refrig. Or am I not seeing things correctly?

In hindsight, it many have been better to have left a section of the sewer drain pipe in place and repurposed it for the duct. But, have you considered the loss of radiated heat from relocating the foil ducts away from the plumbing? Maybe not a big concern for you though. After viewed the dusty environment with an inspection camera, I decided against using the entire bilge as a return air plenum, electing to duct into the closet instead.

Are you sure you're not cross-pollinating topics? (Sorry. Somehow I got cut off before finishing my thought.) I don't see how, other than maybe in the hot water heater, that much water could have remained after your initial blowout. The entire system of 1/2" lines doesn't hold near that much when full. Surely there must have been some left behind after draining the tank.

The tire size is the same but the wheel dimensions on 2020 forward are different. The current Lionshead Jaguar wheel is a 16x6 with 0 offset. Prior years used either Icon (fake rivets) or HiSpec Series 03 that is a 16x7 with 8mm outset. The outset positions the tire that much closer (5/16") to the fender skirt and away from the frame. Back when, Oliver had to trim the fender skirts to eliminate contact damage from/to the tire.

This must be very preliminary information but sounds a bit odd to me. Except for "not even pulling the filter", what has been described is how the draining process works on non-current model. The filter all but removes itself when the drain is opened. It will be interesting to see the documentation when it catches up.

I'd question whether even those would clear reliably but there doesn't appear to be availability in the correct size anyway. Another point for potential interference are the shock absorbers and frame mounting brackets.

Anyone thinking about using chains on the trailer had better make sure there is enough clearance between the tire and fender skirt. Wheels have changed but not on my 2018, no way no how.

I do this quite a bit. While I've made some pretty extensive modification to make it easier, all you really need do is: Bypass (and drain) the water heater, blow out the lines and leave spigots open, then add some antifreeze to the traps. For subfreezing use, the Truma water heater is a no-brainer. I added the antifreeze kit but it is only usable if the water system remains charged, like is possible in a motor home that is continuously heated. Where feasible, the kit does save having to re-purge the system every time the heater is drained but it consumes significant power for the heater element and internal circulation pump that runs continuously. Otherwise, draining the Truma is almost a non-event making the added cost of the kit a waste.

The only area that might not be blown out sufficiently in the toilet inlet valve. After using the compressed air method throughly, consider disconnecting the flex hose from the valve and allow it to drain. Be aware that the water pump has a maximum inlet pressure rating of 30-35 lb (can't remember which) so if you blow out the boon docking inlet, be sure to set the pump inlet valves so air pressure will divert toward the water tank. Then remove pump inlet strainer and activate the pump to clear any water out of the pump and accumulator. For the fresh fill inlet, blow it out last with the boon docking valve for it closed. Finally, remove the filter screen washers in all inlets until any trapped water drains.

That info is obsolete. See the section for Black AGM on the attached. The codes are stamped on the top, near the edge, middle of longest side. TROAJN-BATTERIES-MANUFACTURING-DATE-CODES.pdf

Port and Starboard is a lot easier or even left and right. Either applies universally.🤙

Yep. I never do any side to side fiddling as long as the site is reasonable. Many are pitched slightly toward the drain which works in your favor. Just scope the dump station out ahead of time and determine the side and direction that going to work best.

You can only trust that a service shop either knows or has enough intelligence to realize the correct methods, and has enough integrity to not cut corners. With an atypical frame layout like the Olivers, a responsible owner should point out any uniquenesses of their trailer and obtain concurrence and assurances in advance. Beyond this, you're totally at their mercy. I would suggest to Oliver that they provide all current owners with the Jack Point labels being applied to newer models. A future enhancement should be to weld a jack pad bung on the subframe to make the proper point obvious and hard to ignore.