Galway Girl

Hull 505 has has that support block lost once and fall off twice. Even with good cleaning, and JB Weld. When I get home from Alaska the block will be bolted on after cleaning, scoring, and JB welding. I hope to not have to fix this a 4th time. CS

Made it to Denali NP and Riley Creek CG. Happy surprise at out AT&T connection speed in the campsite B77. Two site sizes here when reserving. A - sites for longer trailers up to 40’ B -sites for <30’ and many double width so truck and trailer are side by side. Really wide site and quite deep beyond rage rear curb stops. Setup the clam on the tent pad.

Is this to protect from rocks and mud? Yes

Fairbanks Golden Days this weekend, saw the rubber duck race. Southbound: Trapper Creek ( to double back to Talkeetna) Eagle River CG in Chugach Homer (2 nights) Seward (4 nights) Williwaw CG ( By Whittier Tunnel) 2 nts Glen Allen - Tok Cassiar Hwy towards home saw pipeline on Dalton Highway

Southbound: Trapper Creek ( to double back to Talkeetna) Eagle River CG in Chugach Homer (2 nights) Seward (4 nights) Williwaw CG ( By Whittier Tunnel) 2 nts Glen Allen - Tok Cassiar Hwy towards home

Watching with joy. We plan to go up next year from Wa. Hope you’ll share your campsite itinerary at some point. Craig & Rose Hull 505 - Galway Girl currently in Fairbanks

Next is Denali NP Rain for next week.

Great tips for Fairbanks. Visited both Fred Meyer and Costco. stayed at KOA Chene River. Some pix: Museum of the north, Pioneer park, Sternwheel Cruise. Eskimo Olympics.

A few pictures as we move forward in Alaska. Now at Fairbanks for a few days. Any attractions that are “not miss”? Chime in…

We spotted an EII with the name Miss Bertie on the Alcan Hiway 124 km south of the US /Tok border entry point. Hull 505 - Galway Girl

We spotted an EII with the name Miss Bertie on the Alcan Hiway 124 km south of the US /Tok border entry point. Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Made it to Congdon Creek CG on Kluhane Lake -Yukon A beautiful campground. Starlink is working great at our site 7 because the trees are a bit back from the trailer.

Cheap yoga mats from Amazon. We cut out templates out of paper grocery bags, then cut mats to fit. we used 3m no-residue duct tape on edges. Items are listed on the Amazon Oliver’s Outfitter Guide here: Amazon Olive Outfitters Guide Cheers, Craig & Rose

Just finished 7 cloudy days in Yukon, and out Lithionics Platinum (2 x 325ah) also held up great. 7 days with some sun and using all items including uW for short bursts and tv at night.

I think it was this one. Best if you go get a few of the fittings at a HW store and a couple short pieces of PEX tubing.

Me too in Yukon today after washboard roads. Thanks to everyone who posts fail /fix articles. Because of the sharing I had the right parts and the fix was only 30 mins.

Made it to the Yukon. First problem on trip. At Watson Lake turned on pump and heard splashing sound under bed by pump We had been in bad washboard roads which broke the PEX connection at the T out of the water heater. Thanks to previous posts I knew of this trouble spot and had replacement parts on board. Took 30 mins to fix.

Hull 505 - Galway Girl Made it to mile 0. Updates later.

Very creative idea. I also ran into the issue of mounting bolts that were offset. in our Domestic awning rail (below), I drilled and tapped 2 new holes that I installed 2 bolts with thread locker. The front side of the bracket is flush with the aluminum mounting bracket.

Double check with Oliver Service and Dexter by taking a pix of your axle tags (bar coded) For my 2019 EII with 3.5k axles: Parts needed for each end of each axle. 4 each are needed to do the trailer. Item QTY PN Seals, Qty 4 pn timken 473336……or you can use a National seal. Or SKF 17144 seals Timken bearings Set 17. Qty 4 Pn L68111 and L68149 for the inner race (Cup) and bearing (Cone) Timken Set 4, Qty 4 PN L44649 and L44610 for the outer race (Cup) and bearing (Cone)

$150 for the version for RV's. More for the fully mobile version.

Inverter_Charger_Settings_Table.pdf This is from the Knowledge Base in the Support Section of the Oliver Website:

After looking at the forum I found a couple posts on installing Starlink. I decided to add another to the mix. Pre-Installation Starlink Test: In testing the system before a full installation I found that the Starlink Router could be plugged into curb side Oliver outlets and then the router could sit on it's back on top of the tire under the wheel well. This provided 58dB of signal outside the trailer and about 78 dB inside. So if you don't want to hassle with mounting the router, drilling holes etc. you could just find a weatherproof box/cover for the router and leave it outside. (Signal strength and bandwidth drops a bit but not really very much.) Read on if you want to do a more complete installation. 1) Roof Mount: (This is just a way to mount the antenna up high.) I bought the Starlink short roof mount adapter. Our hull 505 had the Dometic Awning, so I could not simply bolt directly to the mounting bolts from the awning brackets as they are at odd angles. I used 1/2" long x 3/8" diameter Self Tapping Bolts. I drilled holes, then drove in the self tappers into the mounting rail making sure to use washer/spacers to keep it from penetrating the back of the awning box. I used blue loctite on those tapped bolts. This mounting position will be perfect in those cases where we have clear sky and want the antenna up high. I'll continue to carry the ground mount for portability uses. I don't plan to drive with the antenna on the roof. 2) Mounting the Router - In the Rear Attic and Running Cable into Basement I mounted the router inside the rear attic cabinet. It's held in place by a simple orange strapping tie that feeds through a hook-eye behind the router. This is a good spot for the Router as it's close to a 110V outlet, and easy to run the cables under and behind the back of the cabinet over to the right side then down to the basement area. To make the cable run to the basement I needed to remove a couple panels: (NOTE: DISCONNECT FROM CURB POWER and make sure Inverters are OFFLINE BEFORE ATTEMPTING) 1) Street side attic panel (2 bolts) tip it down flat to gain access to the street side rear of the cabinet. 2) Basement rear dress panel covering the back the basement. (2 phillips screws). For my installation I ran the cable beside the existing AC drain tube on the street side rear of the trailer. I pushed the cable snake down beside that tube, and then at the bottom in the basement attached and I pulled up a length of pull line from the basement area. I attached the pull line to the end of the Starlink cable (the end that plugs onto the dish) and then pulled the Starlink Cable down into the basement. I tested the Starlink at this point before cutting the cable to get a baseline of speed for comparison after I cut the cable and attached RJ45 network connectors and the thru hull port. After testing I looped up about 3 extra feet of cable in the basement and then cut the cable for installation of the RJ 45 connector that would feed the back side of the thru-hull RJ45 plug. 3) Install new RJ45 male plug on cable in basement: Pro TIP: Use metal field termination plugs for the Starlink cable cut ends if possible/ Trying to use the typical plastic RJ45 connectors is a real hassle as the conductors in the starlink cable which stranded and thicker than normal. I spent well over an hour trying to get my shielded/plastic RJ45's to work. I finally said let's try a real metal coupler. In the picture below is the plug I bought from "Cable Matters" on Amazon $6 ea. They feature a clearly labeled punch down block, a threaded strain relief clamp and copper foil tape that is used to wrap the ground (or drain) wire around the cable shaft where it enters the connector. This is the connector I used on the inside of the trailer connecting the Router to the Thru Hull plug. 4) Install the Thru Hull Connector and connector for Cable to Dish I purchased an L-Com IP68 (waterproof) through hull connector specifically designed for shielded PoE Connections. I also purchased a matching L-Com connector kit for the cut end of the Starlink cable. This matching plug screws onto the outside connector for a waterproof sealed connection. I placed the connector mid line between the two existing connectors leaving both the Cable and Satellite COAX's in place. The new bulkhead coupler fits exactly between those two connectors, but I would suggest shifting UP 3/16" from center to allow the bottom door to fully open. (It's the 'satellite coax' in my case which I never use.) Hope this is useful to any new Starlink owners. More detail is in our blog here: Adding Starlink to Galway Girl Craig Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Just fyi.. @Galway Girl *Craig & Rose Short* weren't at the rally. Maybe you meant Duke and Chris who referred you maybe with a different screen name. Craig & Rose Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Welcome to the forum. My wife and I retired a couple years back (she was a teacher too) and bought an Oliver. We created a blog to help our family see various campgrounds, trip logs and provide tips for them and other Oliver owners. Here’s the link to Galway Girls (Hull 505) Blog: https://4-ever-hitched.com At the top and bottom of the blog are links an Amazon "Oliver Outfitters Guide". That guide is a list that’s been made for great Oliver gear along with comments from Oliver owners that describe how it fits or works in and Oliver. Oliver Outfitters Guide on Amazon Craig & Rose Hull 505 - Galway Girl