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Everything posted by SeaDawg
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We've never carried a spare pump, either, as they are so commonly available. But, if you are planning to be "way out there" for long stretches, by all means, carry a spare. They're not all that big or heavy-- probably 6 or 7 pounds. We did use the pump for boondocking water a lot in the first few years. First pump lasted 7 or 8 years.
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I got a kick out of the little witch's hat on the Ollie logo at the top of the page. Made me smile. Guessing thanks should go to @JWalmsley for this.
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Is the external Zamp solar plug controlled by a controller?
SeaDawg replied to johnwen's topic in General Discussion
Thanks, gj. I had a brain fart. The fuses are amp rated. My Furrion port has a ten amp. I've read that the zamp port has a 20 amp inline fuse. -
Oliver Forums app?
SeaDawg replied to Steph and Dud B's topic in How to Join and Use Oliver Travel Trailer Forums
Not that I know of. I use my android phone pretty much exclusively. But, via the website. -
There is really only one "spot" in an Oliver. How do you add an "ergonomic chair" in the aisle? It is quite possible to work remotely, though, in an Oliver. Technomadia did it several years. Maybe add a link to their website?? They are the absolute gurus of mobile connectivity and working from a camper or boat.
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You'll find Canadian gas stations similar to us. Some have diesel, others don't. Do you run on diesel?
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Tell Anita hi from us. Great news!
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Newbies taking the plunge - Are we missing anything
SeaDawg replied to Dennis and Melissa's topic in General Discussion
I think a few have. Imo, you'd be better off to get the solar option, and upgrade batteries if you found the need. -
Newbies taking the plunge - Are we missing anything
SeaDawg replied to Dennis and Melissa's topic in General Discussion
What truck, if any, do you own now? -
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/search/?&q=Access&author=Overland&search_and_or=or You can add or subtract key words.
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Water not draining from sink or shower / no hot water
SeaDawg replied to Cort's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Two different systems, and never the twain shall meet. However, the same black gunk you talked about may very well have caused your Truma problem, as well. If I remember correctly, you bought a 2019 trailer. Did you drain, refill, and sanitize the plumbing system? No matter how meticulous previous owner tried to be, gunk can grow. You don't know how long ago it was sanitized. When you get home, I'd do the sanitizing routine at least twice. And rinse all the crap out of the water heater. After sanitizing twice, fill tank with fresh, and run all faucets (not at once) to drain. Get that gunk out. -
Is the external Zamp solar plug controlled by a controller?
SeaDawg replied to johnwen's topic in General Discussion
@johnwen, how old is your OMMA unit? Does it charge on ac, but not on solar? I've read some mixed reviews on longevity. On OMMA. Are you planning to replace it with a jackery unit? -
SAE or Metric sizes on OTT vs. its Appliances
SeaDawg replied to SNY SD UP's topic in General Discussion
Yes, they do. -
Chances are, you will want two separate policies one for liabilty/comprehensive, etc., and a separate policy for roadside.
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Is the external Zamp solar plug controlled by a controller?
SeaDawg replied to johnwen's topic in General Discussion
Jackery units have their own internal controllers, and use unregulated/uncontrolled voltage input from the portable panels. . So yes, that's likely a problem. You could install a switch before the controller, and a separate lead to thr jackery. And you'd likely be fine. Look at the specs on jacery panels. -
Is the external Zamp solar plug controlled by a controller?
SeaDawg replied to johnwen's topic in General Discussion
The zamp connector, as installed by Oliver, requires input from a separate controller. It's set up for "suitcase solar", ie, panel(s) with their own separate controller. The zamp connector connects directly to the battery bank, via an inline fuse to protect against over-voltage. If you want to upgrade your portable panels, you must provide a separate, appropriate controller between the panels and the batteries, in the standard configuration. So, yes, you can upgrade to 200 watts, add a controller that accommodates the new panels, and you'll be fine. What you CAN'T do is send unregulated power from panels without a controller to the port. -
Our old (2010?) steps are flat plate, plus nonskid strips.
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That is true of any rv, as far as a 3 way fridge. Doesn't matter what brand, trailer, motorhome or fridge. If you are comfortable walking around and sleeping, the fridge is likely ok running. If you are parked on an incline, the fridge is in danger of crystalizing the coolant. Period. Driving up and down mountain roads is irrelevant, as you're obviously going up and down, and redistributing. Parked without running fridge, also no issue. Statement is a little more "true" for the low and flat fresh and grey water tanks, BUT they also have significant advantage. Water weight is kept low, adding to stability. Enclosed, not exposed to parking bumpers, etc. And, add to the towing stability, imo. (Someday, let me tell you about a used rv we delivered, with exposed grey tank that some previous driver had damaged.... and our repairs, over a ditch, on our backs, on a tarp, in the yukon. I miss that belt I sacrificed, and the hours we spent hunting down stainless strapping.. ollie enclosed system is so much better!) We manage water by filling the freshwater tank, and monitoring. We rarely hook up to city water. (Three or four times in 15 years?) If the grey shows full, fresh is close to empty. Or vice versa. We can "see" black level with a flashlight, if necessary, and leave it out of the equation. It's not rocket science. Eventually, you'll know if you are close to full.
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Newbies taking the plunge - Are we missing anything
SeaDawg replied to Dennis and Melissa's topic in General Discussion
Welcome to the Tampa Bay Ollie contingent! Since you plan to carry and run your generator in the basket, you'll want to tell your sales rep that you want the second electrical connection up front. Also, make sure you have a neutral ground plug in your tool kit. (While you're at it, get a decent 12v meter, dedicated to the trailer kit.) If you plan to chase the cooler weather up north during our hot summers, as we do, the standard ac is probably fine, as you won't use it much, anyway. If you later find it drives you crazy, the new Dometic freshjet is a quieter upgrade (not available from Oliver, yet), using the same interior distribution unit and drain, for much less than the full Truma package. The Truma ac requires a bigger generator than the Freshjet. (We changed our dometic ac to a Houghton after 12 years of mostly boondocking because of its age, and a severely cracked shroud.) The 6 gallon standard water heater is fine for most people, very simple, and if you're bringing the trailer home to tampa, you'll never need the easier winterizing fearure of the Truma, anyway. If you've never had an rv or trailer before, the simpler the better, imo. You can spend more time enjoying the great outdoors, and less time reading manuals and fiddling with features you rarely use. Pretty much everything but the rooftop solar can be upgraded fairly easily if you decide later that you "need" some features you didn't order. A portable solar option is easy. Adding rooftop, since Oliver no longer pre-wires for solar, is not as simple. Battery choice is the last conundrum. We have a 12v danfoss compressor fridge, similar to the one Oliver now installs, with just two 12v agm group 31 (105 ah capacity) , and we manage fine with solar, and the occasional use of the generator. Without solar, you will need to plug in to a power source (generator or campsite) pretty much every day, or every other day, with the standard batteries, a bit less frequently with the 4 agm 6 volts. Some of that decision depends on which batteries Oliver is using now. I've seen a number if issues on here with the Brightway base batteries, but I heard they are not using that brand anymore. (Ask your rep.) Upgrading batteries is also a pretty straightforward process, from flooded to agm or battleborn lithium. -
@Wandering Sagebrush, don't be too hard on yourself. Some of this stuff isn't even in the manual, or it's buried. Or, you heard it and forget. Wet feet, backed up drain, etc, etc. I'm guilty of being that loose nut at keyboard, from time to time. It's all good.
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Well, those grommets aren't doing a thing for you, right now. Nylon or some other type of plastic, useless if not seated in the opening. Rough fiberglass is abrasive. Now's a great time to replace with a barbed grommet, or cable glands, that will stay put, since you're pulling the batteries, etc.. Material of your choice. Also, carefully inspect the cables for any apparent abrasions in the sheathing. Hopefully, none, but you do want to know. I'm always inspecting ours, as battety compartment is pretty much under our heads. Btw, in Florida heat, we inspect water levels in the sailboat (fla batteries) monthly, or at least every 6 weeks, in summer. I would certainly do the same in Arizona. Use distilled water only, as you know, of course. Winter, we can check every two to three months, and seem to be ok. Our trailer has agms. As @John E Davies suggested, I would definitely check all 4 batteries. Your system will only charge to the level of the weakest, and if you have a bad cell in one, you'll have issues. If I were you, I'd still check in with Ryan at bluesky/sunforge, and make sure your settings on the charger are correct for your type of batteries. I do agree with you, that for many of us, fla or agm, is plenty, if we limit power consumption. By the way, not for you, but for future readers of this thread, do NOT go over your skill level zone , with electricity, and electronics. If unfamiliar with making connections, get a professional to help. Make SURE panels are covered and turned off before attempting work . Better to be double safe, than sorry, and fry something. Or, hurt yourself.
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Thanks, @topgun2. I should have been more clear, but I think @Steph and Dud B covered it. The sink doesn't drain "directly" to the grey water tank, as it shares a drain with the shower, and, thus, the valve restricts odors and backup while traveling/jostling, but also means wastewater from the sink has nowhere to go but backing up into the shower, if the valve is closed. In our boat, our bath hand sink water goes to the toilet. (Water saving/flush help.) In some rvs, sink water goes to black tank. You just have to know where it goes. (as in, I have to remind folks on the boat to make sure the hand sink isn't overflowing the toilet! I installed faucets requiring contact to make sure they were never left running..) It's all good, once you know your way around. Former girl scout. Be prepared, for myself, and others. Lol.
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It's an honest mistake you'll only make once. Just like the ankle high water, when showering, and forgetting to open the valve. Fortunately, the valve handle is actually IN the shower are, instead of elsewhere, as in a few other trailers.
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Another early owner, woodworker, turned them out of maple, and gifted one to us. It's a thing of beauty.
