Ronbrink

I too have a 2020 LEll (579) with the 2000W inverter/charger and remote display panel, and have changed to LFPs. Can you share the Xantrex settings you found best applicable for your setup, or at least settings that will differ from the chart rich.dev provided above specific to the Xantrex 3000W model? Thanks

GJ, when I read the OP’s statement that the battery tray would have to be removed to accommodate his new battery, my thought was the same as your original comment. I’m sorry you took it personal and my response compelled you to make a change, that was not my intent. I was actually referring to the differential cost of available batteries in today’s market in an attempt to convey that the choice of battery is a personal preference, and cost is oftentimes an irrelevant factor in achieving one’s goals. Your very rational assessment regarding battery securement based on personal experience and professional engineering background is spot on, as was your closing statement, and much appreciated. However, you lost me at “high amplitude multiple directional accelerations”! ps: edited my response, as well, thanks!

To add to Patriot’s line of questioning, how difficult is it to access the spare tire?

I purchased two LiTime 230Ah batteries last summer, and added a transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on lithium when underway or at the storage facility; no more breaking out the genny for these brief stays! My former battery bank consisted of four 6V Trojan T105s, definitely an upgrade with a significant increase in useable power and huge reduction in weight! The Epoch 460Ah featured in Will’s video is very impressive being ‘all inclusive’, but at a cost double (based on current sale pricing) that of my LiTime purchase. That said, the saying ‘you get what you pay for’ probably rings true. Having all of the ‘bells and whistles’ in a single package may be appealing and in fact necessary for some, but not for me. I also installed a Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring via the VictronConnect app, along with applicable fuses and bus bar; having individual components is appealing to me. I especially like that the LiTimes are a good fit in the battery tray, a convenience not worth sacrificing! I would suggest adding a platform for proper weight distribution if one decides to remove the tray; the fiberglass battery compartment bottom alone may not be supportive enough.

There is a hand pump (black cap nearest doorway), it twists to ‘lock’ and ‘unlock’ a pump mechanism. Generally takes 10-12 strokes when using the shower handle.

Thanks everyone for all of the enlightening information you shared regarding the Autoformers, much appreciated!

I fill the LifeSaver Jerrycan and the Oliver’s freshwater tank with ‘home’ water prior to a trip departure; LSJ for consumption, freshwater tank for everything else. When the LSJ runs low it is refilled from the freshwater tank. This current system replaced having to bring a 3-gallon spout container of filtered water for initial countertop use, and the Travel Berkey for refilling, which is time consuming and cumbersome! In doing so, the footprint/stowage of the water management system is greatly reduced with an increase in onboard water supply. I too do not like change, unless for the betterment, all part of my Oliver Evolution!

Yes, that is where staged when full whether in storage, traveling or camping; does not hamper ingress or egress, and hugs the wall under a waste bin. I have the optional shower accessory connected for convenience in filling water bottles, measured water for coffee, ice trays while sitting on the counter below the microwave, and even a quick outside rinse, as necessary. The shower handle holder is a similar adhesive product. I suggest using the blue painter’s tape to mark exactly where to adhere for proper positioning and levelness; it will save you some frustration!

An alternative, especially for inside use, would be this self-adhesive hook cleat. The adhesive pad is clear and very strong; placed one on each side of my LifeSaver Jerrycan.

I posted my Hughes Autoformer install yesterday in Ollie Modifications, it may be of interest if you.

Exactly, number one reason many mount them inside an RV plus they’re heavy to cart around! I sized up a potential spot for mounting prior to purchase, but for best fitment had to deviate a few inches and in orientation. My original thought was to mount it directly over and a couple inches above the grounding bus bar (yellow wire grouping), but ended up simply repositioning the individual wire runs to the right (in pic) and turning the Autoformer 90°. I plan to install a couple pieces of aluminum angle for horizontal and vertical support, and mounting of the securement bracket. I will detail that process with a pending update to my post.

I am aware that some owners use the Hughes Autoformers, even in combo with one of their Power Watchdog surge protectors. Although designed for easy use outside at the shore power post, they can be installed inside an RV which is what I decided to do. Without going into much detail, the Autoformers (available in 30A and 50A models) boost voltage when drops occur, as well as provide surge/spike protection. Surprisingly enough, a ‘search’ of this Forum did not show many results for these Autoformers. As a cost saving measure and matter of convenience, I passed on their Internal Hardwire Mounting Kit and simply made use of a new 10’ 30A RV extension cord. I did however, opt for their Mounting Bracket due to space limitations and ease of removal for service needs. Upon disconnecting all power sources, I proceeded with removal of the exterior street side Furrion 30A Twist Lock male plug. Although I never experienced any problems in the past, I did find the ‘white’ neutral wire connection loose, probably from vibration. You’ve heard it before and now again, routinely check your wiring connections! I then opened up the Automatic Transfer Relay and disconnected the individual wire ends of the stock 10 AWG Boat Cable. I was pleased to find my unit had the Wago Lever-Nuts wire connectors! The clamp connector was loosened and cable removed, all 24” of it. Note: I opted for the front 30A convenience plug for generator use, thus the stated ‘relay’. The female plug end of the aforementioned 30A RV extension cord was cut off, measuring ~35” of cable length below the red plug and subsequently connected it to the Furrion Twist Lock plug. I used the removed cable to gauge how far to strip back the outer cable cover and individual wire ends. Again, pleased to find that the individual wire inserts on the Furrion were color-coded to ensure proper wiring. If you forget to position the neoprene gasket prior to connecting the wires, just know it can be ‘gently’ fitted over the Furrion’s cap and base. The mounting screws were then aligned with the gasket and hull holes for reattachment. The installed female plug extension was laid out and connected to the remaining length of the male plug extension; the end of which was then fed into the relay to mark where to make another cut. For clarification, the cable right of the red plugs is the whip on the Autoformer, the left is the excess length to be trimmed. As before, the former cable was used to gauge necessary wire stripping. The cut length measured ~38” of cable below the red plug and subsequently attached to respective Wago connectors/ground. The cable clamp was then tightened and lid placed back on the relay. By connecting the two red plug ends, the circuit loop is restored to the original configuration, but now longer and modular. The connected cables can now to tucked away when bypassing the Autoformer. Note: the final position and orientation of the Autoformer will differ from this pic. The plug ends can now be disconnected from each other and connected to the Autoformer, as necessary, to bring it into play. These pics show the final position and orientation. Note: the ‘yellow’ light on the Autoformer indicates it is boosting, I have known for some time my storage facility voltage fluctuates and just another reason for this install. The above two pics shows a mockup of the Autoformer, which still needs to be properly mounted. I will update this post when undertaking that task.

Know what you mean, I have a herd of cattle; working them is a treacherous task, indeed!

I’m a retired wildlife biologist, been up close and personal with many critters much more dangerous than buffalo!

Yep, free-roaming buffalo!

‘What if’ the local residents disapprove of your site selection!

I will have to ‘entertain’ that thought!

I noticed that, as well. Their 2019 OLEll 505 and my 2020 OLEll 579. I have a feeling ‘we are not alone’!

Now there’s a thought, I have a piece of plate metal begging to be put to good use! Last welding task was a roller skid plate for the front TV bumper mount to protect the QuikrStuff bike rack and secure our ebikes; pic of roller mockup during fabrication.

I had just enough leftover web sleeving after covering my bike security chains to treat the Oliver tow chains. Marring the bulldog is one thing, but very expensive ebikes is another!

Thanks, your pic confirms what I suspected. I assume the reflective insulating material is first removed to ensure an appropriate bond of a mounting plate to the honeycomb material. BTW, I quoted you in my reply to topgun2!

I bought the Oliver new, maybe someone will be able to solve the mystery!

To quote mountainoliver “The material on top of the wheel well is fiberglass reinforced with the honeycomb material that Oliver typically uses. The honeycomb material is saturated with resin.” I saw this same honeycomb material in mods on the underside of the nightstand and Lagun tabletops when cutting them, as well as the center raised area under the Lagun and dinette tabletops when repositioning the swivel base and support post, respectively. In both instances, screws were used into the honeycomb material in mounting each. The honeycomb material on top of the wheel wells appears to be even thicker and with care, could probably be screwed into enough to fasten the small, lightweight equipment I’m looking to install.

This is a pic of my street side wheel well. Although the galvanized floor pipe flange is clearly glued, I am interested in knowing what material lies directly under it; whether that raised area can be screwed into to mount electronics. Any idea what purpose that flange had, maybe a production support?

Your pic shows a ‘white’ mounting plate under the components, was it glued or screwed down? I was wondering what material occurs immediately under the insulation layer on top of the wheel well, specifically the ‘raised’ platform under the ‘white’ plate.