MAX Burner

@rich.dev @Ty J: FYI: The 2 Lippert friction hinges we got from Amazon last month came with 1/2" white-painted sheetmetal screws. We pre-drilled into the doorjamb and into the door - no issues... We really like the "feel" of the main door and screen door when opening and closing. The Lipperts will definitely reduce door damage in heavy wind conditions. Thanks for sharing the information about this mod - we're very happy with it. Cheers!

@topgun2Hey, Bill: If ya'll make over to Cody, be sure to take at least a half-day at the Firearms Museum there! Well worth it! Safe travels! Cheers, A & D

Nicely done - very clean mod... Thanks for posting.

@John E Davies - We used a black Sharpie to mark the position of the Bull Dog before removing it from the aluminum box beam tongue: The insert sleeves were in good shape. There was slight damage on the edge of the aluminum beam above the rear hole from the Bull Dog rotating up and down, as well as wallowing of the front hole on the Bull Dog itself: We clean-up all the associated parts and re-assembled following John's suggestion using the jack-stand to fix the Bull Dog correctly in position prior to applying torque to the 3/4" locknuts: You can see the Bull Dog is now about 3/16" higher than its position before removing it - due to the wallowing out of the front holes (which may have been caused either by years of towing while under-torqued or from original drilling at the OTT factory): We test-towed the rig on a short 25-mile run after completing the effort and the Bull Dog did not appear to have moved. We're headed to Eagle Nest, NM this Friday to escape the heat for a long weekend away - just under 500 round trip; we'll see if the "fix" holds.... knock on wood! Cheers, A & D

Absolutely amazing pix, we're loving your thread - thanks so much!

Woah!, my bad!

Not to be high-"jacking" the thread... Just pouring 2nd cup ATM, not awake yet! HA!

What's the most expeditious procedure to remedy the flipped shackle? Jack it up?

Well said, @SeaDawg! We'll stick with BBs...

D and I spent a week in SoCal a couple weeks ago, Marina del Ray to be exact... We saw no fewer than 3 or 4 Rivians on a daily basis. They seemed to be "everywhere." We noticed that none were hauling anything???

Have you tried to get a voltage reading at the pump with your VOM? If you don't have a VOM, you could also test for voltage at the pump positive (red wire) with a test light probe: Realize that this is a basic question, but at least you'll know if the pump "is" or "is not" getting power. Battery voltage at pump & pump not running = bad pump. If there's no power to the pump, you're probably "ok" to assume the pump is functional. We've had several pumps fail over the years and that's why we travel with a spare. One is none. Two is one....: Keep us informed of your troubleshooting progress - good luck! Best, A & D

@SeaDawg: Excellent point, brother! The last thing any of us FG egg owners (FGEOs?) would want to experience is making way down an out-of-the-way washboarded road and turn to our better half and say, "Honey, did you hear an explosion back there?" while you gaze in the rear view and see that your hauling a giant burning marshmallow! Just say'n...

WOW! My Cyclo is getting ready to buff and polish!

Background: Using @John E Davies's modification (HOW TO: Connect a STANDARD SAE 4 pin harness (or 4 pin with backup lights) to your OLIVER FACTORY 7 pin wire), May 15, 2022); as inspiration, we installed the same LED light bar (Amazon $90) on the bumper to compensate for blocking the tail lights when carrying cargo/bikes. Our application for the light bar is for a permanently mounted fixture and not removable when the 2" carrier assembly is disconnected from the bumper. Others have mounted it to the carrier assembly exclusively - we decided to have the light bar function with or w/o the carrier attached to Casablanca - so, it gets mounted to the bumper in our case. Process Description: The light bar is shipped with a 4-Pin harness and male/female plugs and a separate (16AWG white) wire for the backup light feature. First thing we did after receiving the light bar was to connect it to the factory 4-Pin female plug on the TV to function check the assembly. It is a 2-row multi-color light bar (red, orange, and white) which illuminate depending upon the driver's input. Basically, marker, L/R, brake, warning, and back-up lighting features are present. Function check proved successful - we didn't want to get too far down the installation path and find out we've received a bad unit from Amazon (been there, done that...). The light bar comes with metal clips as well as a 3M-type adhesive strip for mounting. We decided to mount the bar about 1/3 down from the top of the bumper using the 3M strip for best observation/view from those following behind. Determining the routing for the power harness was interesting and somewhat different than John's "How To" procedure. First off, we learned that the wire colors from the light bar were non-industry standard going into the provided 4-Pin plug, but coming out of the opposite 4-Pin plug the colors were standardized. Furthermore, as you may know, and as John described, the 2017 OTT 7-Pin wire colors are non-industry standard either. We needed to make a wire color/function matrix for what would be 5 Anderson Power Pole connections in the bowels of the TT because we would not be using the light bar provided 4-Pin connector. Power runs from the OTT 7-Pin harness located on the street side under the garage floor; left-rear most area just outboard from the waste water dump mast. The light bar electrical harness will pass through the left-rear bulkhead in the proximity of the small round red reflector left of the spare tire cover. Through a Blue Sea Systems Cable Clam (Amazon $23), the harness passes through the aluminum diamond plate deck into the waste water hose compartment, then through the bumper to the light bar. Removing the black mat, 3 floor panel wood screws and removing the floor panel exposes waste water dump mast, red/blue/clear PEX lines, and several split combed electrical harness as shown above. Also above, note the sacrificial wood piece placed on bulkhead to avoid an incidental perforation of water & electrical targets in the vicinity of where hull penetrations will be drilled from outside. We removed the small red reflector, cleaned off residue from its adhesive and prepared the drill site with blue painter's tape. The 4-piece Blue Sea Cable Clam (rubber gasket, base, grommet, and compression cover) requires a cable penetration hole and 4 mounting holes for the base. Carefully measuring, marking, drilling the holes places the Clam where the reflector used to reside. Cable penetrations were then drilled in the diamond plate deck and on both sides of the bumper - wiring harness was double heat-shrinked and grommeted at each penetration to avoid chaffing. Once the "power run" penetrations were made good, we connected the 4 non-standard LED bar wires to a corresponding set of standard 4-Pin wires using Anderson Power Poles which make for a clean connection bus. Finding and isolating the non-standard 7-Pin wires within the OTT harness was next. As John described in his "How To" post, there are 3 buses easily accessible, one each for back-up, ground, and marker lights. The L (red) & R (brown) are found in the same split comb as they exit and head for their respective light assemblies. The Anderson connectors are convenient in the manner in which they can be attached "side-by-side" - used for years in the HAM radio community, they provide a positive connection even when coupling different gauge wires; which was the case here: Penetrations were chamfered smooth and the harness was "double heat-shrinked" and grommeted at penetrations to avoid chaffing. (Unknown why this pic insists on rotating itself....!) Function checked light bar - all good, zip-tied 7-Pin harness, replaced split loom, screwed in garage floor panel, placed mat in position, closed garage hatch and got a cold one. I'm happy with this mod - D likes it, too with an enthusiastic "thumbs-up"! "Ravel-ON!" Cheers, A & D

Looks like the 410AHr option would fit nicely in the battery compartment... $1600/helluva deal

Perfect! Happy Wife - Happy Life; true as ever!

Great idea - I'll look into QD pedals as well... Thanks!

Very sanitary install, @CRM! Sweet set-up! Thanks for posting your mod.

Congrats! Nice looking bikes! How do you like your 1Up?

FYI: This is a pic of the bathroom switch and LED that could be your culprit...

If you can access the switch in the bathroom, as @mossemi indicates, check the integrity of the wires connecting the switch and the green LED. If one of those spade connectors has fallen off and gone to ground - it could have blown the water pump fuse. Do you have a VOM with you?

HA! We built a "Lagun" table which is designed to straddle the twin beds and create a sleeping space for Magnus. Like your Dobie, he chooses otherwise, and sleeps on one or the other twins... Oh, well! Gotta love 'em, right? Woof!

Can you post a picture of your fuse box label panel? We might be able to guide you to the correct fuse to start troubleshooting...

We don't have a need to winterize, so we installed the accumulator horizontally with access to the Shrader valve. Easy install including the longer ShureFlow hoses for the "quiet modification." We've mounted a small mountain bike hand pump on the underside of the forward curbside hatch cover for easier accumulator bladder air adjustments. We've played with air pressure settings between 20 and 40psi; settled on 30. With this pressure, water seems to flow longer from the kitchen sink before the pump starts. FWIW: It does seem to run a bit quieter, according to D. However, I can barely hear it at all... Cheers! A & D

FYI: I've noticed that the Bull Dog rotates UP slightly when raising the front of the trailer while attached to the TV hitch. I've torqued the nuts to 93ft-lbs, but it still literally "pops" up about 3/16" when raising. Not a good sign. I'm planning to remove the Bull Dog this afternoon to inspect the holes as you've shown here....