topgun2

With shop rates getting to the point of about $150.00 per hour, you are probably a touch low on the $50. But around $75 per wheel would probably get it done. Bill p.s. while just about any boat or regular trailer can do this job - I'd ask around a bit to get some recommendations. Bearing service is NOT difficult. But, if it is not done properly it can cause you some real headaches down that lonesome road.

Or--- How about this for a little back ground/elevator music? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC3h7z83OeI&list=PLc9188Xa99jH0yPXAQzo4pDbbilSfFWGE&index=4

Gene - There are a bunch of posts here on the Forum about anything ranging from minimal (me) to substantial Li overhauls that were done by anything ranging from rank novices (me) to certified professional outfits. Have fun reading! Bill

Very interesting and different. Perhaps someone out there in Ollie land has done something similar, but, I've never seen anything close. Sure does look like a very nice job. Any idea of what the ceramic guy used for the coating? Bill

You might want to ask Spectrum for a "coverage map of the USA" and see what it tells you. Or, simply go straight to the horse like I just did at: https://www.spectrum.com/mobile/coverage-map. Bill

Not that I know of (assuming that you mean "authorized/recommended by Oliver". However, if it were me, I'd start by asking any friends in the area, the campground hosts/owners and/or other campers in the area. Bill

Have you tried a "mobile tech"? Bill

And the fact that Michelin stopped making a tire in the size needed for the Oliver. Bill

Pat - It does seem likely that the notes you refer to have to do with the brake system. Primarily this is because I assume that it is a "mis-type" and should read "liner gone" and that the only "electromagnet" that exists in the Oliver is the one found in the brake drum. Can we assume that you are also experiencing a lack of trailer braking? Bill

Yes, It is likely that you have "tripped" one (or both of the "breakers" that look exactly like the one in the picture you post right above this post. If either of the two of those are tripped then you should see a little yellow "flag" that will stick out the side of that black plastic. In order to reset it all you have to do is push the little yellow flag back in. Bill

I hate to admit it now - but - I was one of those that thought I could not live without a dry bath. During fairly early discussions with Anita (Oliver Sales) I told her of my concern in this regard. Without missing a beat, she explained to me the relative value of the real estate (i.e. square footage) of the dry bath versus the wet bath. Indeed, Oliver could convert the closet into a dry bath, but what is the value of that closet versus the relatively small amount of time that one actually spends in the bath every day, she said. Having an undergraduate degree in economics this spoke straight to my understanding of the "economics" of the situation and the rest is history. And, as with most things, Anita was right - at least for me. Bill

And - what's "wrong" with "rat fur"? Back in the day when I was first looking at molded fiberglass, I took a look at a Casita. I was fairly impressed with the "oak" cabinet doors until I looked a bit more closely and saw that they were actually "press board" with a decal oak cover. Then I looked at the rat fur, then I looked at the frame, then I looked at the "holes" in the shell that were used to secure the "furniture inside, then I took a look at .....

In case you missed it. Bill https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1-Il-AaOC4

Other than adding a device to change 120 volts to 12 volts, as far as I know you will have to put the (or at least one 12 volt battery back into the Ollie in order to get 12 volts to the water pump (or anything else that runs off 12 volts for that matter). As long as it is charged up, basically any old 12 volt battery will work for your purpose. I always have one or two 12 volt AGM batteries laying around in order to use with a small trolling motor I have. This would be more than adequate to power that water pump. Unfortunately, you are in Pittsburgh and I'm in the mountains of western North Carolina. Good luck! Bill

I don't know if I'm in the minority or not - but - I happen to like the rear jack switches located on the front of my Ollie. Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless. So, I installed three small bubble levels on or near the front of the Ollie. All three are right at the "belly" line where the top and bottom shells are joined. The first one is just above the front jack, the second is basically under the bath window and the third near the front door. These levels are much more accurate and sensitive than the one on the front jack and can be observed with a simple step in one direction or the other. I also didn't hurt that they were very inexpensive and are attached with exterior double sided tape. Finally, even though I very seldom use the rear jacks, when I do I use 6x6 blocks under those jacks. This makes positioning easy (in most cases) with one quick look to make sure that the jack and block are properly aliened. Perhaps, the "perfect solution would be to have three way switches so that these switches could be placed in BOTH the front and the rear which would allow for the use in either location depending on the situation. Having thought about this solution, I'm marginally surprised that ScubaRx has not done this type of mod (note that if you ever get a chance to see ALL of the switches that he and Tali have in their Ollie, you will see what I mean here). Bill

MAX - please do not be a stranger (well, at least any "stranger" than you already are 😇). I'm sure that you didn't let the pups go with that fine Ollie of yours! DAVID - you've got a really nice Oliver there. We'd be happy to help in any way we can. Bill

Tony - I agree - this should not be a difficult mod. However, I do not recall any post from the past that talked about actually doing this. Good luck. Bill

I believe that there are simply way too many factors that should be considered for just about anyone to give you any kind of reasonable answer to your question. Wind, certainty of weather forecast, your own risk tolerance, how much time will you spend in the camper, is it sunny out and will you be camped in the sun, how much access will you really need to those water related items that are located towards the outer hull (i.e. outside shower, black tank flush, city and fresh water tank inputs), etc., etc.. Even though there are a number of posts right here on the Forum from owners that have experienced conditions similar to what you are anticipating, there are virtually never two that are exactly alike. For what its worth, I tend to be a bit more cautious in regards to situations like this. But, I'm from a backpacking background and many time travel alone. It is a bit easier only having to take care of one human versus two (or more). A couple of milk jugs filled with water and another one or two for drinking/cooking/bathing and I'm set. That sure beats virtually any time wasted on worrying about exactly what the temps are going to do and/or repairing damage caused by a frozen pipe. Having said this, I'd guess that you will be OK - particularly if you have the ability to make sure that some "heated" air gets to the rear drivers side and under the forward dinette seat of the Ollie. Obviously this is easy to do with the dinette seat but if someone is sleeping on the driver's side bed, it might take a bit of good positioning of a fan or small heater in order to assuage your worries. Bill

THAT makes sense! How else would you route it given that it most likely was shipped from Idaho?🤪 Bill

T & R - No doubt - get the upgraded Andersen (assuming that you can afford it). In my experience, it is night and day better than the old system they had and you will not have to deal with that terrible noise from hades ever again. Bill p.s. thanks for the update on pricing!

OOPS! Mike also included a PDF with Norcold parts list in case anyone needs and/or wants it. See below - Bill PARTS LIST N412 for Norcold Fridge.pdf

OK - below is the text that I received back from Mike Sharpe. Certainly appreciate his quick response! Bill "Hey Bill, Those fridges were discontinued a while back so the parts for it may even be hard to find. However, the boards would be the parts that I would look for. Regards," Mike Sharpe OLIVER SERVICE AND PARTS

About 10 minutes ago I sent Mike Sharpe in Oliver Service an email requesting that he (or someone at Oliver) take a look at Service records on these Norcold fridges in order to see if there is any insight into possible repair parts that might be useful to stock. I'll post back here if Mike (or someone else at Oliver) has the time to do this for us. Bill