CRM

These are the factory cushions we have.. They do have a rubberized waterproof backing on the inside so the cushions themselves never got wet when we were having condensation issues.

Wow! Have to wonder if this is even legal..

Love to have a fridge that size..

I have the original factory cushions. Says they're upgraded on the original invoice, though I have no idea what that means. All I know is they're pretty darn comfortable so I haven't felt the need to replace them.

Update- It's been 6 months now and I've had absolutely no issues with moisture or condensation forming under the mattresses. Left one of my dinette cushions without this underlayment as a test and found moisture under it at least 6 times during that same time. Definitely recommend it for anyone looking for a low cost Hypervent alternative..

Was leaning that way but got talked out of it by a couple of friends with more experience than I. Hope they're right!

4 year old Hercules ST225/75R15's. Don't know what caused it but the Belts are definitely torn. The tire is deforming near the cut and is slightly out of round too.

No TPMS, though I probably should use them.. I just check them at each fuel stop. I'm getting to the stage where I want less electronic gadgets and motors in my life. 😄 Shopping them now, but leaning towards the Goodyear Endurance in ST225/75R15 based on reviews.

I'm obsessive about staying on top of pressures and doing visual inspections of each tire before, during and after every trip and today it paid off. Not sure if it was caused by a defect in the tire or by running over something, but going to stick with my OCD and change all 4. Inspect your tires frequently!

Thanks for this info. I have the 5200's and have wondered why it was still rated for 7000lbs.

Definitely makes it easier to upgrade to disc brakes, though not sure it's worth it performance wise. I have 5.2k axles under my LE2 and braking performance is excellent, even when loaded near capacity.

Something has to give.. The average American can't afford a 1k per month payment for a pickup truck.

I wouldn't even consider mounting flexible panels directly on my Ollie's roof as they can get hot enough to ruin the gelcoat underneath. I've witnessed this happen on a boat where the gelcoat turned brownish with a cracked finish after just one season of use.

There is supposed to be a tag on the rear of the axle with the model number on it. If your tag is missing, as mine was, look at the flange where the brake assembly mounts to the axle. If you have 4 bolts in a square pattern they're 3500# axles, and if you have 5 bolts in a in a circular pattern they're 5200# axles.

Not so sure that product will work for your application. I've used similar fire barrier sealants in the past to seal cabling conduits and they don't cure like typical sealants do. They cure to a hard clay-like consistency so that the sealant can be easily removed and replaced when additional cables or conduit are added. They also expand when heated, though I don't know at what temp this occurs.

Some more pictures of the track mount that show a little more detail. Painted the track with white epoxy enamel since last pics and it now blends in much better. The locknuts in the front of the mount are only adjusted once when installing and the two knobs in the back are used to lock the mount in place while traveling and then left slightly loose while in use to allow the easy removal of the TV and access to emergency window. Used a 4" wide piece of white rubberized tape on the back of the mount to prevent marring of the track and add additional grip when traveling.

I have a Coleman 9.2k BTU in my Elite 2 and would replace with the same if/when it decides to give up on me. So far all of my camping has been in my home state of Florida and mostly during hot and humid weather conditions. Pretty much runs continuously on 90+ days, but always brings the temps and humidity down to comfortable levels within an hour or so of setup, and holds it for the duration. Uses around 10amps on AC and 16 amps on the 6k BTU heat strip.

Don't know what type of aluminum they are made of, but they seem to be strong enough for this application. I've used it on several trips already and haven't noticed any bending of the channel lips that hold the bolt heads, but will keep an eye on that going forward. Inside the cabinet I reused the original large metal plate that the factory TV was mounted to. Countersunk the track so the screw heads were recessed and then used lock nuts inside the cabinet. I think I used 6 per side. The TV bracket itself is the same one currently used by Oliver. I used the knobs included in the track kit to mount the TV mount so I'm able to adjust the mount tightness by hand. I'll get some better pics soon. It's actually very easy to access the rear window in case of emergency. I can grab TV, pull it forward, and then slide it right off the track which gives me more room than if the TV was there in the folded up position. This is the main reason I didn't recess the channel into the cabinet which would have looked more aesthetically pleasing, but wouldn't allow such quick access to the rear window. My favorite part of this mod is that the TV can be slid almost to the back window and the seat space below is now usable with the TV down. Makes the space feel so much larger even though the TV is so much bigger than what was there. Almost like having a wall mounted TV.

I used aluminum "T Track" designed for use in a router table. Pretty sure this is the kit I used- Universal T-Track Kit

I was able to get a 34" installed in mine, but had to also install a track system for the mount to make it work. Thought I responded here, but somehow I clicked on the link in bhncb's response and posted on that thread instead... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4188-television/?do=findComment&comment=85831&_rid=6801

I replaced the old-school Jensen 24" that was in my Ollie when bought it with a 34" LED. Would have rather went with a 32", but decided to use a spare TV that I wasn't using instead. I did end up mounting it on a rail system so I could slide the TV back to the rear window when in the down position since it was way too far forward for my liking without it. Pretty happy with it but still might downsize to a 32" when this one craps out.

The wet sanding step is only necessary when the surface is highly oxidized, and if it is, you're wasting your time if you skip this step. On the bright side, once you put the work in and get your trailer's finish back it's much easier to keep it looking that way with frequent washings with a dedicated boat wash and light compounding/wax once or twice a year.

I use a Dewalt buffer (DWP849X) with a cutting wool pad for heavy/medium compounding and a wool polishing pad for light compounding and waxing. For compounds and waxes I use the 3M "Prefect-it" system exclusively. After washing, if the finish is highly oxidized I'll start with wet sanding with 800-1000 grit paper, followed with their gelcoat heavy cutting compound, then light cutting compound + wax, and finish with the Perfect-it boat wax. If finish is not too oxidized I skip the wet sanding and heavy compound steps and start off with the light cutting compound + wax and finish with the boat wax.

Congratulations and welcome aboard from close relative Hull 045!

I, and others, tried explaining to the woman in the video that her problem was due to an oversized unit, but she won't even consider it because the people who sold it to her said it was sized correctly.