Wandering Sagebrush

Tasty little devils

When we moved from the Willamette Valley to Northeast Oregon, I stopped watching a lot of television, so to fill in a bit, I found some interesting channels on YouTube. Now I can waste time and learn new old skills in the process. One of those channels is Dave Engel’s Coach Shop, where he restores and builds old coaches and wagons. Here’s the start of a Sheep Herders Wagon restoration , and the completion of some old logging wheels.

Is this the rebranded FMCA?

Perhaps consider a separate roadside assistance policy. I believe the Family Motor Coach Association provides coverage to all types of RVs now. Good Sam is another.

IMOP, it’s always good to keep knowledge in the group. Would you mind sharing what the new RV is?

As requested

Doesn’t this depend on the TV make/model? I don’t believe Big Ruby, my F350 has power to the 12VDC to the charging circuit when the engine isn’t running.

I am so happy we have a composting toilet. A garbage bag and a dumpster is all it takes, but I prefer to wait until I am home to deposit under my lone apple tree.

JD, we do, too. It’s made by Highway Products in White City, OR. We try to keep the weight at 100 pounds or under. Because of the width, there is a set of brake/turn signals on top. The bars also accept Yakima round bar fittings.

@Patriot, that is a nice looking storage box!

Here’s a nice confirmation via WTW by Jonathan Hanson (www.exploringoverland.com). ”Interestingly, Roseann and I have given two of these a pretty good workout over the last two years. We fly back and forth to our place in Fairbanks, and have to bring all our books for sale, and other business stuff, each time. Both cases have survived airline baggage handling multiple times just fine. We zip-tie the latches shut for insurance, but haven't had any problems. Well recommended for the price”.

I needed a storage box for loose gear in the tow vehicle and found the Plano 27 Gallon Multi Purpose Tote at our local BiMart. They seem well made, have secure latches, and rollers on one end to help maneuver them into the deep recesses of an 8’ pickup bed. Not bad for $40. Edit: would one of the moderators please move this to the storage cubbies thread. I just noticed it.

Looks like you’ve invented a new travel game. We used to predict and then count the number of Airstreams seen, but now we can count glass eggs and car haulers.😇

Having pulled an 8’ 6” wide Airstream across the Columbia River via the 9’ 4.75” wide lanes of the Hood River bridge, a trailer that size is something I don’t ever want to own again. The pucker factor of the experience is one I don’t want to re-experience. Even my 9’ 6” wide barn doors were enough to terrify me when there was snow on the ground. All that said, a slightly larger Oliver would be appealing. Something roughly 7’ 6” wide, and 25’ long. I don’t need a dry bath, but would like a bit more storage, a longer bunk, and most of all, a wider aisle.

I have a BS in Applied Math, and didn’t remember that.

Rather clever…

That certainly looks easier to use than the ones you see near the RV antifreeze jug displays. Since I have one of the old ones, I see modifications that are about to happen… guess I’ve just been lazy or complacent.

Hopefully, I’m not lighting another flame… but, I’d still like to see Oliver build their own maintenance (this is my concern) and sales center west of the Rocky Mountains. To date, I’ve only found one dealer RV tech that I truly trust to perform the maintenance that I don’t feel confident of doing myself.

Apologies for the duplicate. I’m glad we found our Ollie when we did.

https://www.theautopian.com/the-oliver-travel-trailer-is-a-luxury-fiberglass-camper-that-isnt-built-like-crap/

Whaaaat? Y’all about to get two weeks in the electric chair for blasphemy. 😇

We have a similar issue with a manually cranked awning (I believe it’s a Capri). My guess is that outer end of the hinged arm needs adjustment, probably extended slightly. I haven’t attempted to fix it while in the RV barn and can’t be fully extended. Words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Towards the end of February, I’m thinking of de-winterizing our Ollie so that we can launch out of snow country when we get a good weather window to head south.. I’ll hook up the Truma on the road, so that isn’t involved. We keep our trailer in an unheated, insulated and enclosed RV barn. My question is, how do we protect the water system if we get another very hard freeze? I would prefer to not run the furnace in the enclosed space. Steps I’m considering are: Blow the pink stuff out of the lines with compressed air. Use the boondocking feature to partially fill the FW tank. Sanitize the tank and lines repeatedly to clear associated bad tastes, then leave about 10 gallons in the FW tank. Drain the gray water, we have a composting toilet, so no black water worries. Leave an electric heater running inside when there are freezing temps. Hook up and head south like a scalded cat when possible. Am I overthinking this, or have I left something out? Better ideas, including just doing it on the road? Inquiring mind needs to know. Oops, another question, freeze protection while driving… in the Airstream, we left the furnace running at lowest setting. Thoughts on this practice?

We only had the shower door and one side of the curved under sink cabinet fall off while traveling . Thankfully, no damage done, and easy repairs. It’s interesting that most of the SOB trailers go downhill from that mark. 😳