jd1923

Yesterday high was 97 in Prescott, today milder and although this is more like August temps, we sat on our deck and do so every evening. When 90+ is the daytime high, we will be in the 70's by dinner time, sitting on our deck that gets the evening shade. We lived in the Austin burbs for 9 years. If midday in the summer, it Could be 107 and dry, or 93 and humid if the winds were coming from the gulf. Had a tennis coach once say, who was brought up in the country between H-town and Corpus, for 5 months it's Swamp-A$$! His words. We always remembered this coach for this and many reasons. That would be your hood @Ronbrink and not much different from your location @CRM, both coastal gulf swamp-a$$ locations. Yes, everything is bigger in Texas! Loved our time there. We also spent 4 years in S FLA in the WPB area, and if it was possible, we would have preferred being closer to Ft Myers, or miles +/- from there on the gulf coast. Our country has so many great spots to visit, just travel at the right time of year. No swamp-a$$ out here. AC units run more efficiently in dry air. Why are we home for 4 months of the summer, every year, while y'all are pulling you Olivers out of storage and traveling, some of it climate painful!? If say today, tomorrow, or over the next 3 months, we venture off the mountain to go ANYWHERE, in ANY direction, we drop 3000 FT elevation and climb +20F in the first hour. Our ONLY future summer trip would be to leave in May to get to ID, WY, MN, ND, Canada or en route to Alaska, before it gets too hot. We're home this summer, doing M&R on our newly purchased Oliver and will do a local trip in September, followed by our travel to the 2024 Oliver Texas Rally. Hope to meet you Ron and CRM if you venture the longer trip. We'll see some of you, hopefully more of you, and next thing you know it will be time! 😂

Thanks for the article link. It went back to the Victron SmartShunt, gotta love it! Change your charge settings to 13.9 and 13.4 as stated. This makes total sense yet blows many LiFePO4 manufacturer's recommendations (grain of salt). Many people leave maintenance chargers on 24x7, not a good idea IMHO. I connect a charger only when needed, and I keep shore power off unless we need to run AC. I'll trust our old-school Blue Sky SC, never see voltage over 14V with it on alone. Don't trust RV shore power/120V chargers or inverter/chargers either when connected fulltime and more so for storage. Just don't do it. Recently I'm more interested in Epoch without the Victron Comms. Was thinking of two of these 300AH batteries to start and perhaps a 3rd or 4th later with some installation wizardry (that is a word, right GJ?). There is room in the bay for a 3rd with a tray mod and maybe room in the basement for another one to two! This could add up to 900AH, 1200AH, OMG 1500AH! ~🤣 Too bad the 2x 460AH Epochs w/o Victron Comms will not fit no matter what you do. 600AH at 80% = 480AH (conservative estimate with a 20% safety factor) is more than 2x what I have today in 450AH LA at 50% = 225AH (2.13 more available AH). I believe you made the right choice Mike. Who has more LiFePO4 AHs than you in an Oliver (nobody)! If they run another Black Friday sale at an additional 15% off, you can source 600AH OTD under $2,000, a nice number for a LiFePO4 upgrade and I have all the 4/1 cable, lugs and tools I need. I see these in my future, look for my upgrade TBD: 12V 300Ah Heated & Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials (epochbatteries.com)

The BMS can limit, but note your MPPT solar charger is offering 33A, that's 48A total if I'm reading this right. 150A on the truck alternator is good number given it is in good condition, many are rated lower. Try running your test again, with your batteries needing charge (<80% SOC) and your MPPT solar charger turned off. This will show what the Tundra alternator and DC-to-DC is capable.

I agree in being against custom fiberglass work, and with Truma you must purchase and install through their dealers only, no DIY units or replacement parts available in the aftermarket. Re Houghton, it appears the relay install is quite simple, instructions on this forum. It could be easily reversed if you had to return the AC unit for warranty replacement. I would work this wiring on the workbench and then install. Being careful, perhaps an hour of work. We have little in humidity concerns out west, but I would install the relay just so most of the night when the temps drop considerably in the mountains the fan stays OFF! My main goal is hush... being very quiet... I have not heard another product recommendation in this regard. Still wondering if their 9.8K BTU is feasible on an Elite II. They say it covers 400 SF which is double the E2 footprint. It is much cheaper, especially without the heat pump and we'll just run the furnace when heat is needed. The smaller unit would also pull less amps on the batteries and would be easier on a 2KW inverter.

Yes Bill, they are actually motorized ball valves. Here is the upgrade thread:

@rideadeuce Mike, I'm wondering re your extra solar panel. What make/model? Do you recommend? It does look HD/thick, like a lighter/thinner panel might be enough at that narrow width. Please let me know. I'd like to add some solar eventually, mounted on an angle, in that area of the roof. Did you just tie them into the junction box under the OTT installed panels? I know they make the make connectors like these for that purpose. Thanks 1 Pair, Solar Connectors T Branch Parallel Adapter Cable, 1 Pair 10awg Waterproof Solar 1 To 2 Solar Panel Connectors Wire Plug Tool Kit For Solar Panel (1*m/ff+1*f/mm),temu

@SeaDawg answered the first part. Purchase the portable solar you want first and see what terminal it needs. Buy the required terminal/wiring kit too. You can see in the other post; it takes 4 screws and to splice/crimp the two wires. Any mobile mechanic, somebody on Angie's list or Craigs would be happy to come to your parked Oliver and do the job in less than an hour. They only need to know how to use a voltmeter to get the +Red and -Black wiring straight. RV service shops are a pain and good luck getting an appointment during summer. This way you don't even need to hitch up or drive down the road!

Upon inspection, mine has a light surface crack just where yours is located. Surface only, no leaks, so hope it stays put. I did some work to keep the shower hose from getting caught on the PEX or elsewhere. With parts on hand, I wrapped automotive plastic loom over the PEX and a large section of foam under the plumbing. It it very difficult to get your arms back there to fix the wire ties. I pulled it out and back in 5-6 times and got the full length out each time smoothly. Hoping I'm good now and the hose will not get caught anymore. Chris, have you had time to get your new shower kit installed?

@Townesw it's strange how from hull #113 to #313 there is such a difference! The crank on my rear stabilizer jacks (both sides) are 2-3" from the edge.

@GlacierGirl also not sure what comes with the Renogy or what wiring it requires. Check this mod to start: SAE solar plug upgrade - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

NO comparison, what a PoS! I don't even need to review the specs as this flat-front shell has paneling like the cheap awning I built 20 years ago, for a few hundred bucks, attached to a backyard shed. We would be embarrassed to tow this behind our vintage TV that is prettier and has more class (looks great pulling an Oliver). Should be $40K list vs. $100K of OTT value, but I imagine they are asking twice that. Sorry, but you asked, I answered. And sorry, as I'm not often as polite as some of our Oliver friends! 🤣 Suggestion: buy a used Oliver instead, as we could not afford a new one either. It will hold its value and serve you well.

No time for more design or installation changes, Maggie & Bryan are leaving on a 2nd go on a life trip to Alaska in just 3 days. Godspeed and God bless you, your family, and your upcoming travels! We're here, stand-by to help virtually always. If your battery bank charges up to 12.8V +/- just stop worrying about this. Go enjoy your travels. I can't wait to see your travel posts, my new friend. Yes, it would have been better to but a pair or four, but worse case you can simply buy lead acid batteries at any store along the way, and they may be cheaper given the exchange rate today in CAD$. Have a wonderful trip! On my list is AK and ND, add ME and these are the only 3 states in the continental US I have not yet traveled. See you one day soon! 😂

If the engineering behind the Lithionics product would allow ANY current to the heater when temps are above freezing or say above 35+ degrees Fahrenheit, the heater should be disconnected. This very well could be the cause of 3% daily loss. @Geronimo John hit this on the nail! Oh, and if you are losing 3% daily and the Lithionics app shows no negative current draw, the app is not reading correctly. Loss of SOC can only occur with -Amps over a period of time. Love my $40 shunt, pure and simple, mounted to the negative terminal of my battery bank ALWAYS shows -A when batteries are discharging, and +A the next morning in the Arizona sun! You can disconnect the ground and not worry about the cause (easy solution, takes just 5 min) or strip the overhead out of these batteries. If they were mine, I would first bypass the heaters, and if that did not solve the problem, I would disconnect their BMS and monitor my batteries the old-fashioned way, with system shunt or a simple voltmeter. 😂

@Dave and Kimberly This is the old-school method for storage. I've done this alone for 40+ years on anything automotive that will sit a few months, for charge loss and safety reasons. It appears you have three 12V LI batteries wired in parallel. The grounds between the batteries can remain as wired. The cable providing ground back to the interior must be disconnected. Keep in mind that in this state, with ground disconnected, the batteries cannot provide power nor be charged. So, get them fully charged first. If you prefer, you can install a switch at the batteries, in line with the cable described above, or where that main ground cable comes into the interior prior to any connection to negative busbar or device (inverter, 12v panel, etc). It's relatively easy at the battery location. Besides the switch you would need a shorty cable or short copper bar to connect the switch to the battery post. I would want to figure out cause of the constant current draw. Given you have an Amp reading on your Lithionics App, I would do as you wrote "1) Pull each one of the 12 volt fuses from the panel under dinette..." Pull each 12V fuse one at a time looking for a change in amp reading that reads less negative. Of course, you must have shore power disconnected and the solar feed switched off too.

@SNY SD UP I’d say you’re done. Looks like all 4 batteries are sitting flat. You already made the cable change. Right is OK. 🙂

Very useful for us! I have a quick-connect 12 ft LP line to a quick-connect T. Then we connect our Weber Q grill (maybe buy a proper grill?) and this fire-ring. Removed regulators on both. Don't really need a YouTube if you have a good local hardware store to find the right brass fittings. Very happy not to carry an extra LP tank for outdoor use. Bond Bond Signature 18.5-in W 54000-BTU Bronze Portable Steel Round Propane Gas Fire Pit in the Gas Fire Pits department at Lowes.com

Our Anniversary night ended well. After a few hours watching a local P-ball tournament, and a little rest at home, we went to Papa's Italian in Prescott. It was a great weekend! Her birthday is still to come this Friday. Certainly cannot afford another Oliver, Lol!

Being and old school installer, I would have done this in a heartbeat! That's what mechanics do when you bring your truck or trailer to the shop. I just did something very similar when installing AGM starter batteries in our TV that were a little larger in one direction vs. the OEM lead-acid batteries. It doesn't hurt anything, really, it's only cosmetic. Good job, as hobbyists we always strive for perfection. Glad you worked a solid solution, to which you can be proud! 🙂

Yo GJ, the term "envisioning" truly suffices! That's like those who say "pre-vent-ta-tive maintenance" vs. just "pre-vent-ive." Please don't add the extra syllable! It drives me crazy when multi-million-dollar news anchors, paid so well but have not yet learned the English language, OMG. Chris' family has an old joke. Her Dad was a staunch old-school Irishmen, and very well-educated, a surgeon for the US Army during WWII, deployed in France. Yeah, his life was real. When one of his 8 children, educated in fine Chicago Catholic schools, said the word "irregardless" he would scream "GD-it, there is no such word! What are they teaching you in school!" Then he would rustle the ice in his empty drink glass which meant go get me another (Martini)! I got C grades in English class all through school, math & science another story. Just learned the English language little by little in business writing. GJ, just kiddin' with you buddy! Who's going to fill my glass, guess it must be me! 🤣

Why am I even commenting on a Truma post? Don't own any of their products and likely will not. OTT suggesting women's nylons for pest control just got me thinking, what the...?

@Geronimo John, I'm not sure how this occurs, but 2-3 times now it appears like you are quoting me, be instead quoting a post that I had previously commented. My previous comment to @Nan who wrote the quote in your post was as follows: "They really said that OMG! Not sure how that would weather over time, but I could be wrong. My first thought would be nylon screening (not nylons) that you could buy a small roll at Lowes or the Depot. It is a coarser weave than women's nylons but is designed to be exposed to the elements for exterior use." You're not catching me with women's nylons. Where do you even purchase those things today? I have a faint memory of my wife wearing such, on a special occasion, say back in the early 90's. We are not inviting to, nor attend the parties of the elites, where in big cities such dress may be expected! 🤣

I believe OTT disconnects the black 12V at the + busbar, not in the coupler at the hitch. That’s how I did mine. Therefore it still has +12VDC down the wire. Somewhere along the path the wire to the awning sensor must be connected. OTT uses 3M Skotchloks, at least they did on our older hull. They are prone to fail over time with vibration. I worked for an aftermarket automotive installation co in the early 80s. The boss upset one morning re excessive warranty repairs said any installer using these vs hard crimps would be fired. @John Dorrer that could be the case in the awning staying open or the sensor failed. We all know we should not count on sensors for our safety and care of our expensive Olivers! Besides the basic driver’s ed rules, Always walk around your rig, looking under, do all 8 tires look right, eyeball all hitch connections, stabilizers up? Leaving an awning open is operator negligence! Or instead of system failure, maybe they disconnected the coupler and drove off that way.

Thanks @John Dorrer, it’s got to be that the sensor reads voltage on the black wire from the 7-pin connector. Sorry for being an engineering-nerd! The other wires are all open, no voltage when the TV is parked, wires for lights, turn signals, brakes are all open (off) when parked. Kind of a crazy precaution. Can you see driving away with an awning open? Check your mirrors is first rule of driver’s ed. Much more likely and damaging is driving away with a stabilizer Jack down. Like you, we very often camp with TV connected. It’s safer when boondocking in the mountains, as I want to stay connected on lose ground far up a dirt road. I don’t want to disconnect just the coupler EVER, since if you forget to recouple, you have bigger issues in having no trailer brakes and lights. If you want to negate that feature, you could disconnect the black wire at the coupler (or at the awning, which may be harder to locate). I have already disconnected the black at the busbar, since I don’t want to be camped and have house batteries going low on SOC, sucking power from my starter battery (OTT does this only on LI installs). The awning would be connected either way. I’ll bet that will do it for anybody who would prefer to use this model awning with the TV towing coupler connected.

My old ones were also an inch short. When installing new, starting from the bottom, I pushed hard as I could to compress the new rubber into the channel. I feel I got an extra inch in and later it should shrink from a very tight fit to looser, but hopefully not another inch gap. Thanks Dave, I’ll have to get a bottle of 303 for the rubber on all my cars and trucks.

@John Dorrer did Jason mention how it is sensing the 7-pin? Perhaps they pull a feed off the 12V black wire.