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Check to make the inverter breaker hasn't tripped. It is located under the street side bed at the battery box wall, and next to the actual inverter. Two days after we picked up our 2022, we had gone from the Oliver campground to David Crockett SP, plugged into shore power at both, and was checking the Lithonics app when I noticed all my batteries were around 73%. Spoke to Mike and he emailed me a picture and sure enough the inverter breaker had tripped. This happened again twice and Oliver sent a new one under warranty. What is your app showing for state of charge?

Hello everyone, I'm new on here and excited to be a part of the community. I just placed an order for a small 2500 watt dual fuel Champion generator and plan on running it off of the propane quick connects. Will i need to get a diaphragm regulator? Anyone have advice and/or photos of their setup? Thanks, Happy Camper

Since you did not fill in the information about your trailer, it would be really helpful if you told us which model trailer you have, what year it is, what kind of batteries, solar?, generator? Without much info to go on, I'm confused. You're camping with no hookups but somehow expected there to be 120 volts available from your outlets? You state that the microwave and A/C will run. The only place they can get power (in your situation) is from the batteries, through the inverter and only if your trailer has the Lithium battery package. Further you state that you "Called Oliver service and [they] would not help me, no tech support for anything 120v." This does not sound right. Who did you talk to?

UPDATE: Since my last post, my CO/LP alarm has gone off many times. The propane tanks have been off the entire time. It went off 2x the week of 8/20, then a week of bliss, and then the week of 9/3 it’s gone off 5 out of 7 days. I’ve been sleeping with my windows cracked, for fresh air; one of those nights there was campfire smoke. Otherwise, nothing I could think of to set it off. It’s the “LP beep” and not the “CO chirp”. And in order to make it quit, I’ve been forced to use the overhead fan for at least 5 minutes with the windows open — otherwise it goes off again in 10 or 15 minutes. Last night I was pondering use of my rubber mallet (kidding). Tonight I have my cgd (combustible gas detector) out, so I can use it on the spot if it goes off again, before I turn on the fan. If the detector doesn’t find anything I would like to conclude a faulty CO/LP Alarm. But I DID smell propane back when it first started in July. And the cgd had positive readings with the propane tanks off, in August. So it’s a quandary. Do I dare disengage the thing? I read my manual for notes on fuses, and I see a chart, but I’m not seeing the labels to match in my fuse box. Maybe there’s a 2nd fuse box? At any rate, I need to do something — it’s not fun to be opening up and pulling in outside air when it’s 45 degrees. Though it does bring back vivid memories of a trip I once made to Bryce Canyon in November with a canvas pup tent.

We carry a 50L National Luna top loading fridge/freezer in the truck. If connected to shore power, plug in at pole or to Oliver. If Boondocking we use a combination of generator and Goal Zero 400 lithium power pack. We have a solar panel for the goal zero also. The fridge is strapped into the back seat and cable locked to the seat belt base. We have a swim noodle cut to fit the window and it is slit down the side to fit over the window. It acts as a seal for the heavy duty extension cord.

John, rather than splice into trailer wiring, the previous owner of our trailer ran a second circuit from the tow vehicle to the back of the Oliver. It’s for the storage box on the back, and there is a quick disconnect for the box. Wiring is under the hull. There is a down side to this approach, both he and I had to cut an opening into the door of the TV 4 pin to connect the new flat four circuit. I’m probably going to build a new jumper that comes off the TV 7 pin, and splits to a 7 and 4 so I can better weather protect the TV connection. If you would like, I can take photos for you.

A few years ago, generators were all over our forum. Nearly all portable generators were of standard Motor/Generator design. I refer to them and my Dometic Penguin AC as "Hammer Mills". Then Honda came out with their inverter line. Super quiet, fuel efficient, and their EU 2000 watt unit with an EzStart would run our A/C units. The vast majority of us purchased the Honda inverter 2000 or 2200 units. But they were, and are pricy. Time has passed and most of us still have the Hondas that you could not pry out of our dead hands. But much less costly Champion, Yamaha and Predator inverters (to name a few) have come into play. With the OTT production rate acceleration, I suspect we have many new owners that likely would likely benefit from a revival of the topic. This thread is intended to hear from our owners their thoughts about their generator. Please touch upon the below as well as your experiences: Generator Name and Model Cost of Purchase Power Output (Rated Full Load) Ability to handle our A/C cycling while switched to "Eco-Mode". Please specify if you have an 11K BTU or 13.5K BTU A/C. Decibels idle and full power Ease of use Maintainability Reliability Durability Number of seasons used Thank you! GJ

I purchased a generator box from the KSH folks while we were in Lake Havasu this past winter. I particularly wanted a box for my Honda 2000 generator. For the past five years I’ve kept the generator in the Oliver basket (the older expanded aluminum version which weighed 35 pounds empty) and covered with truckers tarp material. This has worked great but the tarp has aged and would have had to be replaced in another year or so. The stock KHS box has three openings covered with removable aluminum plates so that the generator can be used inside the box. This setup is not at all water resistant and I’m not interested in using the generator so close to my trailer. I ended up getting them to make a box without the three cutouts. The box came with two hold down brackets welded in place which I removed because they were exactly in my way where I needed to mount the box. I was able to use the existing holes in the fiberglass cowling and the original stainless u bolts. The back part of the box is mounted to a 1/4 inch thick by 6 inch wide aluminum plate. The front is mounted to a 1/8 wall 1 inch by 3 inch rectangle aluminum tube. This allows the box to be level. I made two 1/4 inch aluminum spacers for the u bolts to clamp against for inside of the box. The u bolts can also be used to strap down the generator inside the box. I made two 3/8 thick by 1 1/2 inch wide brackets for under the frame. As you can see in the photos, the front bracket was made so that I can hang the safety chains on it as well.

We had the retrofit completed on 6/23 and have the following observations: Truma Aventa Improvements over Dometic Penguin: Drastic reduction in noise volume. I can hear it but unlike the Penguin I can talk over it with normal voice and be heard. I can watch movies and listen to music now without resorting to absurd volume levels. From outside the trailer it is almost impossible to determine that it’s running. At Camp Oliver, I noted the latter on two other OEIIs, one new and one other retrofit. Having a remote allows control without having to get out of bed. In high humidity environments, the dehumidify mode can quickly cut the relative humidity in half (about 15 minutes, not measured). I haven’t measured it yet but it does appear to reduce trailer maximum height by a couple of inches. The interior feels more comfortable with the Aventa than with the Penguin. It distributes air better and cools more quickly. Anomalies: According to Oliver and Truma, the filters are not cleanable and must be replaced at an approximate cost of $30/pair. (The filters do however appear to be cleanable.) The Penguin has cleanable filters. Dehumidify function is not available on CPPlus control. The CPPlus and IR remote controls are independent. Neither learns all of the settings performed by the other control (the CPPlus does learn some settings). This is not relevant to the water heater which can only be controlled by the CPPlus. The CPPlus rotary push button has a very stiff feel. I often have to push it multiple times to get it to work while avoiding applying excessive force. I wonder if this is a defective unit? The dehumidify function may drastically lower the temperature. I noted a nine degree drop (to 62) the first time I used it. On subsequent uses, the drop was more like 3-4 degrees. The dehumidify function is free-running with no added control. For example, there is no way to set a desired relative humidity nor a temperature limiting range. The lower panel cover on the IR remote is mostly in the way. Commonly used functions such as Dehumidify and Night Mode are hidden. I slide the panel open and then do not latch it closed unless I’m traveling. The IR receiver is too precise, meaning that one must accurately point the remote at it for the function to take effect. This results in a common error, meaning the Retransmit button should also not be hidden below the sliding cover. I have found that the sliding cover is too stiff and difficult to open. There is no illumination on the remote making it impossible to use most functions in the dark. About the only thing that can be done is to change the temperature or turn it off/on. The CPPlus is illuminated. When, for example, Auto Mode has previously been set by the IR remote, changing this from the CPPlus control can be challenging. First, one must set Cool mode and the temperature and wait for it to take effect (the panel reverts to normal idle display). Then one can set the fan speed. Before Cool mode has been set, any attempt to control the fan speed will show only the Auto option. Except when using Dehumidify mode, it almost makes sense to use the CPPlus panel to do everything. When the Aventa is On, the fan is running. Auto mode will not shut the fan off when the cooling cycle ends. Perhaps I’ll become more comfortable with this over time, but I find this control system to be unnecessarily complicated and not very user friendly. For this level of product, this is an area where much more attention should have been paid. For example, the ease of controlling the AquaGo with the rotary switch (rotate one position from Off to Comfort) is replaced by: press button to wake-up; rotate to water heater; press button; rotate to COMFORT mode; press button to set mode; press button again to confirm 120 degree water temperature. When fully equipped (2023 models), the CPPlus becomes a common point of failure for the AC, heater, and water heater. Let's hope it is very reliable. I opted for the CPPlus because it provided a redundant control, and in the hope that Truma/Oliver will eventually offer the VarioHeat as an upgrade. The CPPlus panel and IR remote do not appear to be software upgradable. Once you’ve bought into it, what you see is what you get. The CPPlus panel says that it’s iNet Ready. Truma discontinued iNet on 1/1/23, replacing it with iNet X. They show a picture of a different control panel than the CPPlus that Oliver is selling. Truma still sells CPPlus, calling it their “basic” operating panel. iNet is an external box that must be wired into the panel, and would probably have to be installed below the Oliver dinette seat. Truma offers the iNet X panel as a retrofit for the CPPlus. The iNet X panel can be updated via the iNet X app. There is no mention of an upgradable remote. AFAIK, there is no external box, only the iNet X panel and app. It is unclear whether or not the iNet X panel will physically fit into the required space in the OEII. Also note that depending on model year and possibly other factors, Oliver installed the Truma AquaGo rotary knob, Xantrex panel, and SeeLevel panels in different ordering, which may also have an effect on the ability to install an iNet X panel. Having noted these anomalies, also note that we are very pleased with the Aventa itself.

I added two motorized valves to the water lines going to the outside shower. I also added an air line to each water line with check valves (to prevent water from back-flowing into the air lines) to facilitate blowing the lines clear for winterization. The air line runs to the front of the trailer to a quick connect. I can use either the compressor system in the Silverado or a compressor at home. I also re-built the outside shower and dump valve box. Here is one of the motorized valves with the air connection prior to installation. Here's a look at the control station mounted in the basement.

Has anyone purchased the new HONDA 3200i that has a Truma AC unit? It is rated at 3200 surge and 2800 continuous power. Will it run the AC?

As you know, this generator will run on either gasoline or propane. It is rated at 4500 Watts peak and 4050 Watts continuous running on gasoline and 3700 Watts Peak and 3330 Watts continuous running on propane. The difference is due to the BTU's of gasoline vs propane. There is about a 20% decrease in efficiency using propane. But, you have chosen a great generator and I think going to a Honda 3200 would be a step backward. That 3200 watt rating is contingent on using gasoline. You're much better off with this one as it will easily run your AC or charge your batteries, maybe at the same time plus electric and remote start. What could be better? Good choice.

I've had my heart set on a Ram 3500 Cummins HO with the Aisin transmission for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger on the truck or the LEII yet. On the truck side I've been debating the following: Dually - Dual Axle (DA) vs Single Axle (SA) Crew Cab versus Mega Cab. 6'4" Box versus 8' Box There are three important caveats, You can only get the Mega Cab with the 6'4 box You can only get the 50 gallon Diesel tank with the 8' box. The 6'4" box comes with the standard 30 Gallon Tank. You can only get the Mega Cab starting with the Laramie trim, there are 2 lessor trim packages which could save $ Lengths: Crew 6'4"box- 19.75' wheelbase 149.5" Crew 8' box - 21.73' wheelbase 169.5" Mega 6'4" box - 20.82' wheelbase 160.5" I was leaning towards the single axle Mega Cab with the 6'4" box, but that requires at least the Laramie trim package, which I don't necessarily want. Also I really would like that 50 gallon tank, which puts me back to the Crew and 8' box which allows me to save some money and get back to the Tradesman trim. Having said all that, 90% of the time, there will only be 2 people in the truck and the Mega Cab really only benefits back seaters. Unless of course you put the seats down and use it as a flat space for storage. I wanted to see what you experienced Oliver haulers thought about these options. Any opinion on the wheelbase differences on towing or driving around town? Or is the 149.5" wheelbase already so long adding another 20" isn't going to make much difference in towing. DA vs SA, I am leaning toward SA mainly because of the rear width size during non-towing everyday driving. However, I would also appreciate any opinions on this as well. Any thoughts on the 6'4" box vs 8' box, in terms of running out of space? Everyday driving? U-turns, etc.

Just some trivia for a discussion topic. I’ve been looking to purchase a small inverter generator to carry on long extended camping road trips, and in comparing specs and reviews, the Honda series consistently comes out as a top choice (but pricey!). One interesting detail is the engine displacement comparison. The Honda has a significantly larger engine for the given wattage compared to the lower cost competitors. Probably explains a lot about the reliability and noise advantages of the Honda. The larger gas engine just doesn’t have to work as hard. Couldn’t find any any info on the engine horsepower ratings of each brand though. Maybe it’s on the data plate on the unit itself (there’s a direct relationship between engine horsepower and potential maximum wattage of the generator). Larger engine displacement typically means more torque, and more torque means lower RPM needed to achieve a particular horsepower. HP= torque in lb-ft x RPM/5252 1 HP=33,000 lb-ft/min=746 watts Comparison: Home Depot Ryobi 2300 watt - 79cc. ——— Harbor Freight Predator 2000 watt - 79cc. ——— Honda EU2200i 2200 watt - 121cc. ——— Champion 2500 watt - 79cc. ——— WEN 2500 watt - 80cc. ——— Craftsman 2500 watt - 98cc. ———

Here is a related thread, I installed a similar box up front under the jack: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2688-how-to-junction-box-for-trailer-harness-repair-or-extend-the-harness/ This all came about because I wanted to install a ... Redarc DC to DC Battery Charger .... and I needed to know FOR SURE that the wires were big enough. 12 AWG is the absolute minimum according to Redarc, and bigger is always better, especially in an Ollie with a very long run back to the batteries. Here are the existing butt splices, half of them are absolutely buried under the sewer pipes. Time for a J-Box! So I cut all the splices, and dragged the ends up to where I could inspect the wires. Most were OK, but the white Ground wire was not. Somebody extended the front wire with a smaller sized one. Darn it! I bolted down the box next to the 120 VAC outlet. I spliced into the green and white running light wires and brought them up to the box via the bottom hole. The other wires come in from the left and right sides. I ran heavier 10 AWG black and white wires (power and ground) from the box back to the appropriate posts. So now the Redarc charger will not suffer from excessive voltage drop, and with the easy access, it will be very simple to troubleshoot any future 7 Wire Harness problems. The new splices are easy to ID because they have clear spiral wrap plastic, and they are secured to the inside wall using a 1" thick block of HDPE plastic, bonded with JB Weld directly over the small LED light. The placard goes inside the J Box using 3M double stick tape. Here is the placard, in Apple Pages format: Oliver Junction Box wiring placard Rear 7 pin.pages Note that I indicated where those marker light splices are - I hate not knowing! John Davies Spokane WA

NEW JUNCTION BOX: This has literally been bugging me for five years, from the first time I saw a picture of the outlet mounted right below the faucet water supply hoses and the drain pipes. It is not even a GFCI outlet! If there is a water leak, it could be dangerous. Sorry for the rotated pics, some come through this way! Remove the two lower drawers by squeezing the orange release things, and lift up and out. Remove the flip out tray screws. Remove the tee piece (three long screws) and then the 1/8' plywood access panel. DISCONNECT SHORE POWER, double check to make sure these wires cannot be energized! Flip the main breaker to make sure! I measured the space and found that it is too tight to install a waterproof "in use" outlet cover. I even tried, I ordered one from Amazon, I can return it easily. Nope, it won't work. I decided to eliminate the outlet entirely. I am not sure why Oliver did not hard wire this in the first place...... I found this plastic junction box at Home Depot: Here is what comes in that kit: This is a true approved 100% waterproof cover; Dimensions. It is plenty thin to fit in that area. More to follow. John Davies Spokane WA

Speaking of generators and the front storage box, ideas for security. Ideas for locking down a Honda 2000 or 2200?

The trip that we just returned from last night was a month long road test to make sure that the box was weatherproof before I put the generator in. So as requested, I put the generator in the box this morning. The nylon strap that KSH supplied seems more than sufficient to hold the generator solidly in place. The original strap anchors that were welded inside the box may not have been sufficiently strong enough to hold the generator. I removed them because they were in the way of using the original Oliver supplied basket anchoring u bolts. If I were to buy this box again, I’d ask that the welded in strap anchors not be used. There is enough space for my extension cords and rope lights (pack rat deterrent) as well. I draped a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet over the generator to prevent any damage from the cords, etc. I’m very pleased with the results! The extra plus is that the generator box is about six inches narrower (front to back) and eight inches total narrower (side to side). This gives me a little tighter turning radius and a little less worry while backing up. I’m also saving about 15-18 pounds on the tongue. I would have liked to use a “store bought” triangular shaped aluminum tongue box but I never could find one of reasonable size that my generator could fit into.

I’m hull 1139, Vic Shumate, purchased generator 2 days to help with running appliances etc,.,,,generator works great but Oliver says I need to change AC input settings from 25 to 15 on the Xantrex inverter remote panel while using generator as power source…..,,how do I change this setting on the xantrex?! I’m suppose to change it back when plugged into AC 30 for power! So I need to know how to set it!? Can’t seem to get batteries back to 12.5 -14 volts?! I turned the xantrex off! Will that help or hurt while running generator? I’m at a bluegrass festival in Okeechobee Florida through Sunday morning…….. my batteries dropped to 9.6 volts in 2 days while boon docking with roof solar panel, wanted to use generator to bring batteries back up but I’m not doing something right! Help! Got batteries back to 11.6 V today but do t know if it was solar panel or generator doing it!? Refrigerator says code C and Ice melting…not good! thanks

@dewdev I decided to not connect the two external condensate lines from the AC to the internal (Oliver) drain line. I did not want to compromise the weather seal between the new FreshJet AC and the roof of the Oliver. To connect the two condensate lines to the internal line it appears you would need an extra roof gasket. The two condensate lines run (sandwiched) between two roof gaskets. For the time being, I have capped off the internal drain line that leads between the hulls. I may change my mind and reconnect the lines at a later date. I was able to use the existing thermostat control box from the old unit. Note: You may not be able to use your existing inner ceiling cover from the old Penguin AC, the four main mounting bolt holes on the FreshJet are spaced further apart. I replaced my ceiling cover a couple years ago with one that was more flush with the ceiling, thus allowing me to have more head room in the Oliver, being 6’5” tall I needed the extra space. It is a more universal fitting and I was able to use this replacement cover without any problem. You may want to check with Mary (RoadLotus) on the type of cover she is using.

@dewdev, I had mine installed by an RV shop. According to them, no modification was needed on the entry hole and the condensation lines are the same. I did not relocate anything as far as the temperature box. I am using the existing dometic thermostat. @rangered did his own installation and can provide more details on that. He also got a lower db reading than me. I was using my phone to measure, and it looks like he has an actual db meter. I hope that’s helpful 🙂

I got a couple of questions when installing the new Dometic Freshjet AC. 1. Did you have to modify the fiberglass opening and how was the new AC sealed so there was no leaks? 2. How was the condenate line reconnected? Do you have to disconnect the old condensate line from the old AC and reconnect the condensate line to the new AC? 3. Was the temperstate control box inside the old AC unit? Did you have to relocated it? Thanks

Not much to see here, but as promised, here are a couple of photos. The first is obvious, the second is the storage box quick disconnect at the back of our Ollie.

Yes, however I have a storage box for the pole to keep it looking sano as it travels in the bed. The light mounting plate will live where you see it mounted and I can easily attach the light and solar panel at base camp set up. The light is plastic and likely would not withstand towing down the super slab underway. The lower profile light mounting bracket should be fine. Mod On!! 😊

New aluminum folding trailer. The sides are reflecting the dark ground, they are shiny silver. https://apogeetrailers.com/folding-aluminum-trailers/ https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-apogee-adapt-x-300-folding-utility-trailer-at44fr.aspx I found it for $2000 off MSRP, paid $3388 out the door (no sales tax in OR, I have to pay that when I register it in WA. I love the design and the build quality and the attention to details, but holy cow, it is sure noisy on lumpy pavement. It sounds as if it is going to explode, even with 450 pounds of ballast. I use a hitch quieter on the ball mount, I tightened the coupler nut and put nylon ties onto every little rattly part like the pivot pins. They do not mention this in the fancy marketing material. This is a really rare trailer in the USA, I think they are not selling a lot, eTrailer.com USED to carry them, but no longer does. Mine is a 2022, I have not seen any 2023 models listed except in the Home Country, Canada. I guess more Canadians need the folding feature for winter storage, plus they are a little cheaper there too. I have not read any user reviews except for a couple of “Gee I really like this.” And “Gee this is really cool, my ATV fits fine!” This thread will change that. I will post lots of pics and info as I learn more. Fixed their home page: I do not intend to carry a 2000 pound ATV all the time, this is for box store and landscaping trips. I do not want this to turn into another bottomless pit of mods, like “Mouse”, but was considering adding this. It uses the existing axle and hubs, unlike their Independent suspension version. Timbren Silent Ride 3500 lbs I am concerned that the rubber dampers may be too stiff, the trailer has a max payload of 2300 pounds but normally will be less than 1000. If the dampers from the smaller 2000 pound kit can be swapped in easily, that would be a possible solution. Does anyone have direct experience with this Silent Ride system? I just got home yesterday afternoon, 700 mile round trip to the dealer in two days, and I am a bit wiped. I could do that a lot easier when I was 30… I need to do some crawling around and measuring. John Davies Spokane WA