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The last two years some of the vendors have provided box lunches or light breakfast, but that's not shown on the schedule this year. Last year there was a potluck dinner that's also not listed this year. We find planned dinners don't go as planned due to lots of gabbing, so be flexible.

Do you mean like - THIS or THIS or THIS or ???????? Simply type in the "Search" box at the top of the page the words "quick connect" and start looking. Bill

When towing with a truck, the majority of ‘stuff’ brought along on a camping trip or road adventure is conveniently stowed within the various holds of the Oliver and bed of the TV. However, even though my former crew cab Silverado 1500 had a storage box under the rear seat, it was mostly used to accommodate service tools and supplies for the truck and thus, found myself utilizing the rear floorboards and seat as additional cargo space when traveling. There’s peace of mind knowing cargo carried in the bed of a truck is adequately secured, not so much for that behind the front seats! All one needs is something going on from behind when something tragic is happening up front, no bueno! We’re required to wear seatbelts for good reason, proper securement of vehicle interior cargo should be of equal importance. I would be interested in learning how owners with trucks/SUVs safely carry their cargo within. My awareness of cargo securement was heightened recently with acquisition of a converted cargo work van as my TV; specifics are detailed in a forum post last October under ‘Towing an Oliver’ and entitled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’, if interested. Unlike service utility work vans that generally have a partition or cargo net, along with containment shelves and boxes, to secure cargo and ensure personal safety; conversion and passenger vans are more designed for ‘people’ cargo. In the aforementioned forum post, I addressed cargo containment, but cargo securement was still under consideration. Here is what I did to address the subject matter: Maiden voyage to Texas Oliver Rally, Inks Lake SP; cargo contained, but not secured! DC CARGO E-Track system components were obtained via online purchases from Tractor Supply. Each of the Buyers Products boxes were fitted with six of these brackets, three at the top of each end. A 1/4” x 8” aluminum backing plate was used to attach and strengthen these mounts. Backing plate cut to size, holes drilled and tapped for mounting bolts. Containment boxes prepped for backing plate and E-Track bracket installation. Super Sliders affixed to bottom of containment boxes for ease of handling on interior carpet. Three E-Tract rails fastened to deck to accommodate securement straps. Aluminum plate at floor level is runway for folded e-bikes. This box was slid rearward once back box was removed for storage at COW Barn. It primarily contains items typically kept in the TV with additional storage space, as needed, a trunk per se. Ratchet straps best used for non-towing vehicle use. Box securement once e-bikes are deployed. Wider Cam straps best used for e-bikes and subsequent box securement when traveling. Rear box is for camping ‘stuff’, forward as a truck and more ‘stuff’. Driver’s side box securement using ratchet straps. View of e-bikes ready for ‘takeoff’ on runway! Cam strap securing e-bike. Ratchet straps for spare propane tank, generator and other needs. Items too long for the containment boxes are stowed behind at side panel. Oliver-mounted hoist used to transfer box at storage facility. TV moved forward to enable box positioning. Cam straps used for the lift. Containment box lowered onto platform cart. Liking the modular containment storage.

I wanted a front storage basket that my generator could travel in that would also have enough extra space for a couple other items. This basket fits over top of the jack so there is no wasted space behind it, and I didn't have to drill any holes in my LEII to attach it securely! I used two pieces of heavy guage 1" aluminum pipe across the bottom of the tounge and four 8" bolts that are through bolted to the basket on the sides. I used square rubber spacers between the rack and the fiberglass tounge which allows cargo straps to secure items in multiple locations. An added bonus is the basket framing is spaced perfectly to allow the rubber feet on my generator to fit securely over it (I did stick four more rubber spacers to the bottom of the generator where it straddles the basket framing. The basket, the generator, and the other items add about 100lbs to the tounge. I will be offsetting this added weight with a receiver style bike rack I will be adding to the rear of our LEII (more on that in a future post). I measured how tightly I will be able to now turn (especially while backing up), and I should be fine. I am very happy with this storage basket and the price! 😊

With our previous RV we kept loading the fire ring and LP tank when camping and when we got home we carried up to our deck (son Adam always did that task for me). After our first Oliver camping trip, having our fire ring in the front generator basket, I decided to leave it there, replace the regulator with a new line to the quick connect. We bought a second fire ring for the deck and left the extra tank up there. I also upgraded the lava rock. I can't stand the cheap/light stuff they include. These are heavier, but all I do is move it a few feet down and plug it in. They conduct the heat and make the fire ring warmer, always on the low fuel setting, and they look far better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2C7WVN?th=1

I was perusing the FAQ section here: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/frequently-asked-questions/. and read their "What kind of insulation" statement ( I added the bold: "There are three ways to transfer heat: Conduction (through a solid material), Convection (through air space) and Radiant (reflective heat transmission.) The Oliver uses materials and construction techniques to take advantage of all three. The fiberglass hulls provide conductive insulation while the built in air gap between the inner and outer hull provide convective protection just like you would find in a double sided insulated cup. The Oliver is fully insulated between the exterior and interior shells with an insulated double-sided radiant barrier, which is best described as follows: "Reflective aluminum foil on each side of a 5mm (13/64 inch) polyethylene bubble center." "*Polyethylene Bubble + Radiant barrier + Vapor Barrier + Air Gap Barrier". This unique material provides a combination of radiant, convective and conductive protection. The foil radiates heat back into the camper in the winter or away from the camper in the summer. The foam insulation is infused with billions of tiny air bubbles that provide convective protection while the foam itself provides conductive protection. At only 13/64" thick this powerful product provides an R16 insulation rating. You would need approximately 4 3/4" of standard fiberglass batt insulation to equal this performance. The insulation we use serves as a radiant, vapor and air barrier making camping in any temperature a pleasurable experience." I don't know the brand they use, but I searched for that description, which seems to be cut and pasted directly with quotes from here, which states R8: ... https://www.usenergyproducts.com/collections/reflective-sealer-foam-core-1 Oliver says it has an R16 value, that manufacturer says R8, and I have a really hard time accepting either figure, since Reflectix has this VERY confusing chart: That chart says you need 9.5" gap to get to R16! And a thin Cathedral ceiling with 0.75" gap in a Northern winter is just R1. Basically a single layer of Reflectix with NO air gap has an R1 value. ;( and sticking another layer directly on top of an existing one doesn't do anything at all to increase it. The physical gap is the key, and the bigger the better. I think the Oliver description is misleading in the extreme, I hesitate to call it BS, but I really doubt the combined R16 value for the little 1 inch gap between inner and outer hulls. And they don't mention all the areas that do NOT have a protective gap against extreme temperatures, like the over and under storage cabinets, battery box and rear cargo area. Those spaces ARE the gap, they do keep the heat or cold out of the cabin, sort of, but it is also why they get so darned cold or hot inside. So your water valves freeze or your batteries overheat. I have been adding 1 inch slabs of Dow Corning R5 rigid foam board ... The Pink Stuff ... into those areas wherever I can reach, especially near water lines that run along the inside of the outer wall.. Any comments? John Davies Spokane WA

I believe previously they used foil bubble wrap, but more recently (as of five years ago it seems) they're using Protex AD10 10mm 1/5” R22 insulation. This was taken from the following long video playlist with nerdy construction details. The bottom outer is wrapped, and the upper inner. Additionally for (all - some?) of the trailer there is an internal honeycomb material that is spray and fabric fiberglassed. This will have some R value due to those dead air pockets. As an engineer type I've thought about this design, it's interesting. Conventionally in a structure you want a single vaporbarrier with two climate zones. But having the double hull they have three, in trailer, in wall, and outside. This means that the between hull space is it's own climate and can potentially have condensation issues of it's own. This is why they added the drain holes along both sides. Normally that would be a poor design, but if you think about it, it's not much different from your attic or crawlspace. Both need air vents (ridge/soffet vents and foundation vents) to prevent humidity buildup, but also provide an insulation 'barrier zone'. In summer my roof will get to 100+ degrees, but I measure less than that in the attic. If I had a Protex barrier glued between the rafters, it should be roughly air temperature, which in a sense buffers the temperature from the roof which acts like a heat sink. For comparison consider, of all things, the James Webb Telescope design with it's five layers sun shield Now the inner space is heat conducting air and not insulation vacuum, but I'd think at least that should provide some buffering of the temperature gradient. Additionally, since the ducted heating runs along the water pipes below, during the winter at least that waste head isn't wasted - it goes into warming up the inner wall. And during the summer months, the outer takes the brutal heating from the sun which should be a lot of radiative, and the double foil deals with that. tl/dr ... basically I think it's possible it comes to some pretty high insulation R value given all these factors, maybe even R22. A test would be something like putting a trailer in some hot desert and seeing how long it takes to warm up an insulated box which is pressed/taped against the wall. It would give you a rough idea at least, should be pretty good I'd think.

This rings a bell and I stand corrected, thanks Val. Now I remember an RV we had was gas and when the fuel tank was 1/4 full or less it would stop feeding fuel to the generator. Likely a lot of RV generators are gas. For trailer use, pouring gas is messy and a safety hazard, like Ron wrote, LP is cleaner/easier for his small generator. I'm glad to be generator-free now. There was a time with only two lead-acid batteries that I would have to run the generator in the afternoon to recharge them every couple of days, running a small inverter without any solar.

Hopefully, these will be available in the US one of these days, or the shipping from the UK is reasonable. These would come in really handy for cleaning up some of the sloppy wiring we've all found. https://quickfixjb.co.uk/

@Tideline77, to paste a link into a post: copy the link, then in the compose box look at the icons at the top. You will see what looks like some chain links in the second group after the B I U S. Click it and then paste the link into the top box named URL. The box under that (link text) gives you the option to provide a description instead of the URL, like what Bill did in his post. He typed in THIS in the link text box which takes you to the URL he pasted. Hope this helps. Mike

I wanted to share with you my recent battery replacement. My Ollie is a 2015 Elite II which originally came with Trojan T-105 AGM batteries in support of my solar system which utilizes the Blue Sky solar package (SB2512iX-HV MPPT controller and IPN-ProRemote). I replaced my Trojan AGM batteries with Bright Way Group Bright Way Group EVGC6 - 6V 220AH Deep Cycle Golf Cart Battery which OTT are currently installing on the Elite II as the AGM option. As part of this process, I contacted Bright Way Group technician in order to obtain the battery specification sheet (attached). I then provided it the Blue Sky Technician (Ryan Gurin, 760-208-2149). Ryan provided me with the settings needed to reprogram my Blue Sky MPPT Controller SB2512iX-HV via the IPN-ProRemote. Ryan is an excellent resource and was very helpful. I ended up talking to him multiple times. In a nutshell, here is what I did: 1. Disconnected the solar panel via the cutoff switch (street side bed) and opened fuses on the bus bars (also street side bed). 2. Removed the old Trojan Batteries (after taking pictures of the wiring configuration). 3. Cleaned all battery wiring connections. 4. Cleaned up the battery box and repainted the battery tray. 5. Inserted the new AGM batteries and made all appropriate connections (maintained the original wiring configuration). 6. Closed the fuses on the bus bars. 7. Reprogrammed the MPPT controller via the IPN-Remote using the new battery settings. (see attached sheet with adjusted settings) 8. Reconnected the solar panel via the cutoff switch. 9. Verified solar system was operating correctly and batteries were charging as appropriate. Additional Notes: 1. If changing to AGM from Wet Cells, you must ensure the equalization dip switch on the MPPT controller is off. You do not want to equalize AGM batteries. The dip switch will override the IPN-ProRemote settings. 2. Bright Way Group batteries have the same dimensions as the Trojan batteries so they fit in the tray (just as tight). 3. Recommend you review the Blue Sky Learning Center video on how to program the IPN-ProRemote. 4. IPN-Remote Programming instructions (attached) – please note I downloaded the menu sheet from the IPN-ProRemote manual and annotated the needed updates. I found it easier to utilize this menu sheet in order to understand where I was in the programming process (most parameters do not change). As you review, please note you should “restore default settings” first from the set-up menu. I have highlighted in yellow the menu options that you will need to perform an action on. The new settings are also highlighted in yellow next to the appropriate menu box. Hope this helps anyone considering replacing their AGM batteries. 1492893628_BlueSkyIPN-ProRemoteRe-programming.pdf BWG_Spec_Sheet_BW EVGC-220A-AM Final.pdf

yes, the good news is Lithiums are a LOT lighter than the AGMs. But, at 57 pounds each, that’s 171 pounds for the 3. After reading about someone saying they felt like a “German Mechanic working on car” I came up with a Rube Goldberg solution. The original 4 AGMs were wired with no bus bars and no cut off switch. After seeing some sweet forum posts I decided to add the Blue Sea bus bars for Neg and POS, the 400 amp Blue Sea Fuse, and the Blue Sea Switch. (FYI, Blue Sea is very proud of their equipment and price it accordingly.) Using 4/0 welding cable, not the 4AWG from BatteryCablesUSAA.com that I ordered by accident, I realized it would be really hard to do this in the box. (By the way, BatteryCablesUSA not only refunded me for the wrong size cables I ordered, but helped me get the right ones, and 2 day shipped them in time to get them installed before putting the new Victron Multiplus in Monday.) See the pics below where I used the Loews what ever board, not the expensive board Oliver uses. thanks Forum. I wired the 3 Watt Cycle 280Ah, (not 300Ah, like it says on the label) on the table and made sure I had all the spacing right. Then disconcerted and put them on the board with the PVC pipe as rollers and hooked them up, Worked pretty well, except for the Blue Sea On/Off switch. It was almost too tall with the board and pvc rollers. (If you try this, use smaller pvc or a 1/2 inch board.) Good news is it’s all hooked up and good to go. Will update when the new Victron MP gets installed. I could not have even considered doing this if it had not been for the wonderful detailed posts other owner have posted and great responses to my questions. Oliver is a Great Trailer, and even better, because of the wonderful owners on the forum that support newbies like me. Thanks Gary

I am questioning why it charged very well the FIRST time using the one generator, with neutral bond plugged in on the generator, the only difference with 2nd attempt to charge with the same setup was i failed to check the amount of battery chargé before i connected the generator, i do know the blue lights were on and not blinking and i had lights in the cabin shortly after initiating the generator. Puzzle IF i use both generators or repeat the single generator and see what happens, i did nor know to check the generator warning light you mentioned.

I’m headed in a different direction and wonder if the breaker setting on I assume your xantrex converter/inverter may be set too high for your generator. The factory setting for breaker rating on our xantrex is 25A, but this is too high for our Honda eu2200 generator. I usually set my breaker rating to 20A or less if charging from the generator. If I try to run the generator with the breaker rating at 25 A, you can hear a change in the sound of the generator as it overloads and stops charging and the overload red light on the generator will light up.

What all can be removed when replacing Xantrex ProWatt SW with Victron Multiplex. I have a Mobile RV Repair guy coming Monday the 21st to put in the Victron Multiplex. In addition to the Xantrex ProWatt and the SW unit what else can be removed? Can the Transfer switch in the dinette seat basement go? Does the aluminum junction box, under the SW unit stay or go into the new MP? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Gary

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

I've been amplifying the hi-jack but I imagine @Teaney Hull 292 got what they needed in 2 pages and we're all here for more questions from any and all members! I would not worry about the 104F heat issue unless you plan to exterior mount your inverter in the sun! 🤣 Ours is under the streetside bed. It did get up to 104 during testing August afternoons where we get pretty hot, when sitting in the sun. I installed the dual Beech Lane fan, like the one I installed in the fridge cavity. It pulls air from the streetside basement, all the way from vents I added in the bath, closet, etc. With the fan on 104F drops to about 88F, with A/C on and the interior about 74F. Reason you want the Victron is you can run your A/C on generator with the Victron supplementing extra power from your batteries when the compressor is running and when the compressor shuts off your generator would be back to charging batteries. You likely know this already. Victron calls the feature Power-Assist. Re your other comments, she may learn to like boondocking. We love where we can go where there are paved roads and campgrounds. More opportunities west than east. Oct we plan to park the Oliver on the edge of the North Rim! If at a point where we truly want to run A/C on batteries, after we replace the Dometic with something efficient, a third 300AH could be in our future. Given you have the Honda, I do NOT suggest the suitcase addition. We rarely use ours and wish I had saved the $800+ for the suitcase, the Victron 30A MPPT, cabling, connectors, etc. I would certainly suggest adding 400W or as much as you can get on your rooftop. Our 2x 160W panels are now 10 years old. I wonder how efficient they could be. Given that and the flat mounting we usually only get +10 to 12A net charging rates (winter afternoon sun). The 400W Renogy suitcase will double those numbers, from a combination of newer panels and being angled towards the sun. I'm looking forward to reading about your upgrade when you get to it! 😂

First, I would say it would be easy to get help from friends at the rally for replacing batteries. A full inverter mod, the custom work of mounting the very LARGE Victron Multiplus II, stripping our all Xantrex parts (ATS and junction box) and related wiring changes may be a lot to accomplish at a campsite! I ran in and out of my garage/workshop 100 times while doing mine for tools and 4-5 trips to Depot or Lowes for hardware over a two-week period of time. If you study the mod threads, plan really well in purchasing parts, get very ready, have a lot of patience (new friends too), maybe, good luck! 🤣 You want the 12V inverter and do not need the UL-certified model (required by code for home installations only). I went with Inverter Supply for these parts for free shipping and no sales tax (see picture). You NEED the VE.bus to configure the Victron for charger/battery spec settings. There are two models (I purchased the USB-C model and there is also USB, depends on the laptop you would use to setup). You need an Ethernet cable also to connect the VE.bus to the Victron MP2. There are YouTube videos showing the configuration steps. You also posted pictures showing the Progressive Industries ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and the display which shows the readout of shore power stats. The ATS switches between the two shore power sources (side outlet and front outlet usually for generator in front basket). This will not change but the power coming out of the ATS, connecting to the 120VAC breaker panel has to be replaced with new 10-3 AWG cables to go to the inverter and back to the breaker panel (buy 15 ft to be safe, I used about 12 ft, it runs from streetside bed basement where our new inverter was installed up to the breaker panel under the rear dinette). The Victron MP2 has dual terminal bolts on both + and - sides. I ran the 4/0 battery cables, from batteries directly to the Victron MP2, removed from the 2KW Xantrex (I had the same older model) and all secondary 6 AWG cables that OTT had on the batteries, I also bolted to the Victron bus vs. out to the batteries. If you get this all done at the rally, that will be a great story! Take pictures and post...

And this can be a deciding factor if you boondock with a generator. Depending on which PD convertor/charger you have you'll be running the generator 2x or longer than you would with a 120 amp Victron to top off your batteries.

About 8 years ago I had an electrician add a 30amp box next to the fuse/breaker panel, and wire a dedicated switch on the panel box. Kinda like plugging into the shore power post and flipping the breaker He also added 2 twin 120 plugs, each pair with a breaker in the box. Been very handy.

Imelda: For unit 642 (maybe a 2020 or 2021 model year) first step is determined if your Xantrex is an INVERTER only function or if it's a combo inverter charger. If your system has a 2000w xantrex inverter/charger then the battery swap is simple. If not, then you'll currently be using an progressive dynamics charger which is located in the black breaker box (under the dinette seat). The pix below is the breaker box with the cover removed. The 12v Charger is in the upper left with the white wire connected to the charging board. Some folks with the Progressive Dynamics charger see a jumper switch on the charger unit (upper left in overview) for charging lithium. In the pix below I've zoomed in on the charging board jumpers. The issue with that LI setting is it's not the "best" way to charge lithiums as it's simply a constant 14.6V voltage...not a ramped profile. The WIZ setting of the jumper is a PROFILE for AGM or LEAD Acid. The LI Setting is just 14.6V (no ramp/no profile). Some battery manufacturers (including Lithionics) won't warrant their battery in presence of the constant 14.6V no profile setting. Whichever lithium battery manufacturer you select, LI Time, Epoch, etc....be sure to check what they need as a charging profile. If a constant 14.6V works for them, then you might be able to a drop in maintaining your existing Inverter and existing charging system. I know that battle born did warranty their batteries with the Progressive Dynamics chargers. Also, there are new "Lithium compatible" plug in boards for the progressive dynamics load center that offer a lithium profile wizard. So just upgrading the charging board in your Progressive Dynamics energy center is a possibility. Upgrading requires unscrewing that charging board, disconnecting the white wire and sliding in and securing the new charger for LI. In our case (2019 model hull 505) we swapped out the Xantrex 2000W Inverter (only) for a newer Xantrex 2000 inverter charger before installing new Lithiums. My full upgrade article is here. This may be too much of an effort for what you want to accomplish but hopefully my explanations help. Craig https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/lithium-battery-upgrade?blogcategory=Electrical+Upgrades

@Tideline77 it is best practice to set the Xantrex breaker setting to the max current your source outlet can provide. (Actually a little less. Note that Oliver's default setting for a 30A campground outlet is only 25. It's not great to run electrical components at full load.) This is to prevent your trailer from over-drawing power and tripping the breaker on your power source (or worse). Your generator may have a 30A outlet but a 2200W generator can't actually provide the full 30A, at least not continuously (2200W / 120V = 18 Amps). You can go to the max available output of the generator (probably 18A in your case, check you manual) as long as the trailer is the only thing plugged into the generator. One advantage of setting the Xantrex to lower Amps (say 10A) would be that the generator wouldn't be screaming at max RPM the whole time. However charge time would go up. If plugged into a household outlet, I go at least 5A below the circuit breaker for that outlet. When in storage and I need to charge, our trailer is plugged into a 20A household outlet. However, that same circuit might also be used to run power tools on different outlets, so I actually set my Xantrex breaker setting down to 5A. This causes the trailer to charge more slowly, but allows me to use other outlets in the garage at the same time without tripping the breaker. Also, if you're using a regular extension cord to connect to a household outlet, you should lower the Xantrex setting to no more then the cord is rated to handle. If you attach your trailer to a 20A outlet, set your Xantrex to 20A, but then use an extension cord rated for only 15A, you run a risk of melting that extension cord and starting a fire. In summary, never set the Xantrex higher then the breaker on the supplying outlet and consider going even lower if you don't need absolute max charging speed.

I believe it's in the engine compartment. We'll soon see. It's pretty unique. If you want to stop and charge, it's a phev. (Plug in hybrid). But, if you want to make tracks, and the distance, the pentastar solely charges the battery. Contractors can use the battety on-site, vs bring in generator. The battery isn't huge. So, daily driver, purely electric. Towing over distance, definitely need the big gasser pentastar to charge the battery. I'd say for now, possibly best of both worlds. Still reliant on fossil fuel for long distance, but at least only one drive train to maintain. The reliable pentastar is pretty much tried and true, though not as an onboard generator. The power of rhe electric motors is impressive. It's a compromise, but, probably a good one in today's world.

That manual is an amazing resource @Ray Kimsey. Thanks for posting. I was starting up my Norcold after winter today and it was throwing an F code. Symptom: On GAS the Norcold would ignite, but the igniter circuit kept clicking and clicking until the unit shut down and threw an F code. I was concerned that it would be one of the harder to find parts like the igniter board etc. I downloaded the manual you posted and followed the F Code troubleshooting flow chart. Upon opening up the burner box, I spotted that my burner area was very clean but the sensor was practically touching the burner, and needed to be adjusted out to 3/16". I did that adjustment by sliding a 3/16 hex key along the burner and squeezed it into the igniter so it was set for 3/16" Re-tried the fridge and it started with no codes and is still running. The gap between the igniter was fine but the sensor was too close. The PIX below are from a service posting showing how the parts are supposed to be aligned....and what a proper flame looks like. https://www.arprv.com/norcold-gas-valve.php

I want to first thank all in the group for indicating their concerns, and offering suggestions. I removed the side mounted gas cans, and upgraded to four substantial ratchet straps. The ones that I used around the generator have large hooks on each end. I crisscrossed the straps over the generator and wrapped them all the way around the tounge and hooked them to the main framing under the tounge on both sides. I also slid the generator over so it is now centered on top of the main framing and I looped one of the straps around the jack pole for added stability since the generator is now right next to it. I will watch for any wear on the straps and reroute them as necessary. Although we don't use our generator often, we wished we had it on a 45 day summer trip we took up the east coast into Canada in 2023 as there were a lot of overcast days when our solar panels couldn't keep up with our tired batteries. We took it with us on a 70 day trip back up North this year and used it about 20% of the time when the weather didn't cooperate and we were without hook-ups. Lifting it in and out of our truck's bed got old real quick. Letting it travel on the tounge of our Oliver will make things a lot easier when I need to pull it off and use it. For now, I will use the 2.5 gal no-spill gas can that I bought before this year's camping season and keep it secured inside our truck's bed as I did this year near the tail gate. I travel with the generator and gas tank empty and only fill them up at the end of the day when we get gas for our truck just before checking in at campgrounds where we won't have an electric connection. Prior to checking out I pour any remaining gas in the generator into the can and then into our truck. This way I'm not traveling with any gas in the generator, or in the gas can, and we are always using fresh gas when we need to use it. The basket that I have installed extends forward the same length as the Sea Biscuit basket and it is only 2" wider on the sides. The corners are rounded, although not quite as far back as the Sea Biscuit basket. The basket that I have left enough room for our dog's fold-up stroller which was the other item I found difficult to be pulling in and out of our truck's bed. I will confirm my ability to make sharp turns before heading out on our next trip. The quality of the Sea Biscuit products is unquestionable and I may switch out my basket for one of their containers in the future when our dog is no longer with us. For now, my wife always acts as my spotter when we're pulling in and out of campsites to keep me from hitting something so she can let me know if I'm getting too close to our truck's bumper. Thanks again for all your input. Joe